Are you thinking of ITB's? These are carburetors, no cis or megasquirt involved.
The only write up on another web site i have found was by the Bogg Brothers of Europe. It is more of a generic write up, not specific to any one engine:
There are a few guys on the Vortex doing, or attempting to do this. The guy who has been most helpful is my main man FROZEN (Thanks dude). He has posted on my thread as well as other bike carb threads.
Vortex R1 threads:
Not R1 but good info:
There are more threads, but those are some of the good ones.
And one more... This one is great for rebuilding the carbs:
Update for the day
This weekend i made up a coolant hose that will give me much more clearance, im pretty happy with it. It will run on the outside of the alternator and then under the tensioning adjustment bracket.
My runner material showed up last night, i got right to work on shaping them. Shaping took some patience, first i used a vice to oval them out and then a cut off saw to cut the angles.... I dropped the flange and runners off to my brother this afternoon, i hope he doesnt put the welding off. Ill have to keep on him The runners will be cut down to about where the cardboard is after the welding is complete.
My parents supprised me for christmas so i will be flying back to my beautiful home in Northwest Washington [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG] [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG] Im going to have to hold off on the installation till New Years weekend.
Throttle Cable time!
I had been looking at different ways to do the throttle cable for a while and this is what i came up with. It is by far the cheapest way to do it. The cable its self i got at the local bike shop for dirt cheap, you will need the fitting on the end for the throttle lever on the carbs, it just so happens that bicycle brake cables work perfectly. For holding the cable on the carbs i ordered the small bicycle brake adjuster from here:
Brake cable with round... thing.
I cut down the small mount that screws on to the adjuster and put it on first. Then i used the small nut to lock it in place. After the photo was taken i bent the bracket on the carbs over the adjuster a little, that thing isnt going anywhere!
For the cable to be finished, all i have to do now is figure out how to get a hook on the pedal side so that it will go right in to where the OEM cable goes.
Got the manifold back, it looks great! It bowed a little from the welding so i bent it back in a vice and then used a belt sander to get it perfect.
I need to pick up some sort of hose to join the mani to the carbs. Dont know if i want to use rubber or step it up and pay extra for silicone hose.
Question for FROZEN: Where did you get the foam air filters for these things? I cant find them anywhere!
Doing a CIS to carb conversion also. Going to be running a single Weber/Magnum Flow manifold set up for daily driving and a quad-Mikuni/custom manifold set up for "showin and going." I'll be using a Mr. Gasket in-line pump, Quick Fuel FPR and Spectre glass filter and FP gauge. Money is an issue, so I did the best I could with what I had to spend. I'm wondering if anyone can help me on running a return line to the tank. The FPR has 2 outs, can I use 1 to run a return?
I found my filters on eBay, and blew the metal ends off two of them! Backfire in the carbs. They are UNI filters, I cant think of the PN, but the fit 50mm and are the shortest ones they make.
Right now I'm using window screen for filters!
Your cable adjuster might not have enough adjustment in it. I went to a local Yamaha dealer and looked through some "scrap" cables they had and found one about 2-3 times the lengh of yours. I used the stock cable from my JETTA (1983 vintage!) and JB welded cable ends from AutoZone on the end. You will need to cut A LOT of the cable off to get it to size. I kept the stock to retain the "J" on the end so it woont bind and looks factory in the firewall, because it is! Im going to go out and try to get some pics and PN's for you too!
Something's been bugging me, and I just put my finger on it ...
Are you planning to mount these carbs horizontally, or vertically (in the same orientation as the photos a few posts up?
Those carbs are designed to be downdraft carbs, as are most late model Yamaha sport bike carbs.
I do not know what will happen if you try to mount them in side-draft orientation. You might want to pull one of those float bowls off (easy, 4 screws) and see what's going on in there. It could possibly still work, but you need to make sure the jets will still be submerged, the vent is NOT submerged, and that the floats will work correctly in that orientation.
Modified by GoFaster at 5:34 PM 12-27-2009
im pretty sure those are side draft carbs just with the bowls titled because of the orientation and clearance of the motor in the yamaha bike. in fact im pretty positive most bike carbs are side draft, the only ones that may not be side draft are from boxer engine style bikes such as old gold wings or bmw bike.
As far as the carbs working or not . . . Before my distributor took a dump, my set up was working great!
I'll see if I have a vid of it running and once I get my new camera figured out, I'll get more pics up.
Quote, originally posted by 86Franklin » im pretty sure those are side draft carbs just with the bowls titled because of the orientation and clearance of the motor in the yamaha bike. in fact im pretty positive most bike carbs are side draft, the only ones that may not be side draft are from boxer engine style bikes such as old gold wings or bmw bike.
Perhaps, that is all well and good, but I am absolutely one hundred percent sure *that* bike has them in the downdraft orientation!! All Yamaha sport bikes following the "Genesis" layout of the early FZR's (started late 1980's) have the carbs in a downdraft orientation.
If someone else has already validated that these carbs will work in a side-draft orientation then it's all good. You might have to muck around with float levels ... but you are going to have to muck around with jets and needles anyway.
Bogg Bros uses the R1 carbs because they will work in almost any position, down, side, backwards, over the river . . . My car was running awesome for a few days till my distributor stopped doing its job. You can google search and find them on VWs, old Toyotas, mazdas and a bunch more. Search youtube and there are a bunch of videos too AND the last PVW I bought has a MKI with a 16V running them . . .
A write up about bike carbs and Bogg Bros . . .
Got my pics up . . .
nothing to drool over, yet!
What I used for my cable ends
OE MKI choke cable
Holley and gauge
pick up on to sync your carbs on the cheap!
MKII cluster in and working
"John Milner" inspired gauge set up!
and my lazy helper . . .
Modified by FROZEN337 at 5:14 PM 12-29-2009