Switching to Bike Carbs. Heres a write up!

[pnavarro]

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...9LcAmldtcf3dxw

Catalog part numbers for the Yamaha R1, pdf file. Good to have, in case you need to buy an specific part, for the carbs, mainly.

[rysskii3]

just got my parts.

what are you guys doing about the dipstick? mine is in the way of the carbs

[funpig]

On the ABA motor you might have to bend the tube a little forward to clear the carbs. Another thing to consider is maybe changing the dipstick tube and dipstick to an early 1.7 or 1.8 model dipstick and tube. They were much shorter than the newer motors. The setup looks good. Post more pics and vids once you have it all up and running. I have been DD mine now for a few months and it is FUN!

[ncbrock]

just got my parts.

what are you guys doing about the dipstick? mine is in the way of the carbs

who ended up making your manifold or did you find one already made?

[rysskii3]

who ended up making your manifold or did you find one already made?

got it with the carbs as a package from another member on here. cleaned it up and painted it yesterday.


got my coolant hose worked out. and im waiting on a buddy to make a new alternator bracket.

[ncbrock]

got my coolant hose worked out. and im waiting on a buddy to make a new alternator bracket.

what did you use as a hose coupler?

[rysskii3]

what did you use as a hose coupler?

Plastic pieces from parts store that are designed for coolant hoses.

[ncbrock]

just any local advance or napa? or like online parts store? I couldnt find anything local so I had to end up using a heavy metal drain extention from home depot that I cut and welded

[rysskii3]

just any local advance or napa? or like online parts store? I couldnt find anything local so I had to end up using a heavy metal drain extention from home depot that I cut and welded

The only place in town that had them was o'relies. I went to NAPA, auto zone, pep boys, and a bunch of others.


It even came with this:

[littlesnides]

going to be doing cbr carbs on a 3A counterflow fox...
Got everything digifant out... I'm guessing I'll have to do some rewiring to get power to my fuel pump and cluster. I haven't looked over the bentley for this part yet.

I have a question about the weir tech flange I plan to buy. The holes on my stock mani are just round without the cutouts for injectors in the manifold. (mine are in the head) Is it ok to use this manifold flange:

http://www.weir-tech.com/volkswagen/.../8-mild-steel/

Also was thinking about just jb welding some hose barbs into my old injector shrouds for my vacuum hookup. I know its cheap, but it should work these really don't see any pressure...

plan to use cis ignition and bike fuel pump.

[yeayeayea]

mother of god......



HERE IS A TIP FOR EVERYONE.

Take your stock upper rad hose. Make one cut in it here:


Just above the alternator.

Then take the end that would normally clamp to the water neck on the block, flip it, and then clamp it on.

Connect the two halves, and viola, you have an upper rad hose, with only one splice, that will connect the ABF waterneck to the stock radiator.

[rysskii3]

mother of god......



HERE IS A TIP FOR EVERYONE.

Take your stock upper rad hose. Make one cut in it here:


Just above the alternator.

Then take the end that would normally clamp to the water neck on the block, flip it, and then clamp it on.

Connect the two halves, and viola, you have an upper rad hose, with only one splice, that will connect the ABF waterneck to the stock radiator.

couldnt get it to work like that. the fuel line on carbs was hitting it

[littlesnides]

Apparently that intake manifold pictured is for crossflow, but they don't have it advertised as so from weir tech... Plan on calling tomorrow

[YJSAABMAN]

Apparently that intake manifold pictured is for crossflow, but they don't have it advertised as so from weir tech... Plan on calling tomorrow

Yes, was just about to post that. That flange is for ABA/crossflow 8V.

[rysskii3]

where are you guys getting the fuel jets from?

[ncbrock]

might want to check local yamaha dealers they might have some in stock, if not Motorcyclesuperstore is a great place to shop

[vswords32]

arrived yesterday

[bmwquick]

For those that asked, and just to whore something, since I haven't been able to get anything done on my car:

Couple of quick mani questions:

Is ANYBODY selling these 16v flanges?? Weir tech only has 8v one's and I've looked everywhere..

Also, it looks like the 16v runner spacing from the flange to the carb is the same, so you don't have to bend/angle the runner tubes (unlike the 8v's), correct?? That'll make fabricating the mani much easier with my limited fab skills. I'm picking up a local set of R1 carbs tomorrow and I'm ready to do this!

[YJSAABMAN]

Couple of quick mani questions:

Is ANYBODY selling these 16v flanges?? Weir tech only has 8v one's and I've looked everywhere..

Also, it looks like the 16v runner spacing from the flange to the carb is the same, so you don't have to bend/angle the runner tubes (unlike the 8v's), correct?? That'll make fabricating the mani much easier with my limited fab skills. I'm picking up a local set of R1 carbs tomorrow and I'm ready to do this!

Sorry, but after the last round of flanges taking 6 weeks to get, I've given up on the machinist I was using. He was too far out of my way, too.

I'd recommend talking to Howie @ HE Performance. Check out his website: www.heperformance.com I know he's done a few 16V ITB manifolds, and he welded up my R1 manifold for me. Good guy, great work, SEMA Design award winner, he should be able to hook you up. Tell him Andy with Dub N Rub sent you.

[YJSAABMAN]

On the note of my project, I started a template for my throttle switch bracket yesterday. Upon some info I found in this thread I may pick up another micro switch and run a full throttle switch as well as the idle switch. Sorry, no pics.

[jetta86GLI]

I am starting a project in my Jetta 1986 GLI, I already do a upgrade to my jetta I changed the engine for a ABA block with flat pistons, JH head stock camshaft, weber 32/36 carb, MSD 6AL ignition box, Blast 2 coil, and I am trying to change the JH Head to a 16v, with the ABA block probably I will need to change the flat pistons, and will put the yamaha R1 carbs.

I am sorry for my poor english

[pnavarro]

Well, after much debate, ignition-wise, I will drop my idea of going for an MSD6AL2 programmable for a Megajolt Jr setup. I'll still use an MSD coil pack and MSD spark plug wires. I'll start purchasing things little by little, no rush.

[vswords32]

so heres a few more pics of where this is going now
















trial fit to see what has to go where..

[ncbrock]

such a nice manifold but will it clear the hood?

[pnavarro]

Mother of gaaaawd

Beautiful...

[Dr.Steels]

so heres a few more pics of where this is going now
*snip*

Mother of god... Do you have some drawing of this thing?

[vswords32]

Mother of god... Do you have some drawing of this thing?

im afraid not,i had it made up especially for the spec of the car,waited about 4 weeks for it and it is a work of art!

[rysskii3]

Everything fueling wise completed:


test fitting the carbs:

[rysskii3]

time to do the MSD ignitions. this is what i have so far:

on the start/retard box the white wire was connected to the green on the ignition module (pin #1). what about the gray and the purple wires? they are just left there.
on the VW ignition module, what is pin 2? ground? pin 3, 5, 6 are connected to hall sender. pin 4 seems to be the ignition power wire because 2 red power wires (one from MSD and the other from retard box) were connected to it. by the way, my engine is 9a on motronic and didnt have the VW ignition module.

is that all?

Thank you.

[ncbrock]

cant use that diagram because our distributors have hall senders not amplifiers. first thing that turned up on search

[rysskii3]

cant use that diagram because our distributors have hall senders not amplifiers. first thing that turned up on search

sweet! so ill get all the wring done in the next few days and get a timing gun. my car was set to oem timing specs a few months ago. i have an adjustable timing gear so i can use that to set the timing right?
do i use the plug on the side of the MSD to get the rpm reading via the oem gauge? how do i get the rpm to stay at 900 on idle?

also, i got the fueling to work last night, but it only work with ecu plugged in, if i unplug the ecu the pump does not turn on. i have it wired into the original plug for the main fuel pump. which wire do i need to find and splice together?

[ncbrock]

sweet! so ill get all the wring done in the next few days and get a timing gun. my car was set to oem timing specs a few months ago. i have an adjustable timing gear so i can use that to set the timing right?
do i use the plug on the side of the MSD to get the rpm reading via the oem gauge? how do i get the rpm to stay at 900 on idle?

also, i got the fueling to work last night, but it only work with ecu plugged in, if i unplug the ecu the pump does not turn on. i have it wired into the original plug for the main fuel pump. which wire do i need to find and splice together?

need to slow down and take it one step at a time. Worry about timing later get your fueling sorted out. The reason your fuel pump isnt working is because the ecu gets fuel pump readings from the tach. Obviously with the ecu out of the question now the fuel pump isnt getting singal from the ecu. What you have to do is get the MSD Tach Adapter, hook that up to your MSD tach output and wire it to the stock tach wire, this will solve two problems. 1: the fuel pump issue 2: the tach reading. If you try and hook up the tach output wire directly to the stock tach the msd doesnt output the right signal for our cars (hence the adapter).

Timing will be a two person job, dont worry about your adjustable cam gear now that is for fine tuning only. What the msd 8980 retard box does is retard your timing 20*. So what you would want to do is set your dizzy to ~30* ADVANCE at idle (~900rpm). 30* advance will be almost locked out. So you will have roughly 10* advance at idle.

[rysskii3]

need to slow down and take it one step at a time. Worry about timing later get your fueling sorted out. The reason your fuel pump isnt working is because the ecu gets fuel pump readings from the tach. Obviously with the ecu out of the question now the fuel pump isnt getting singal from the ecu. What you have to do is get the MSD Tach Adapter, hook that up to your MSD tach output and wire it to the stock tach wire, this will solve two problems. 1: the fuel pump issue 2: the tach reading. If you try and hook up the tach output wire directly to the stock tach the msd doesnt output the right signal for our cars (hence the adapter).

Timing will be a two person job, dont worry about your adjustable cam gear now that is for fine tuning only. What the msd 8980 retard box does is retard your timing 20*. So what you would want to do is set your dizzy to ~30* ADVANCE at idle (~900rpm). 30* advance will be almost locked out. So you will have roughly 10* advance at idle.

so i need the 8920 Tach adapter then?

[oopseyesharted]

I have a 1984 rabbit L with a 1.7 liter. It had a factory carb that I replaced with a weber 32/36.

My questions are these:
1. what fuel pressure do these carbs need?
2. does anyone make an intake manifold for my car to run on bike carbs?
3. what carbs are reccommended for my 65 HP monster?

[Dr.Steels]

I have a 1984 rabbit L with a 1.7 liter. It had a factory carb that I replaced with a weber 32/36.

My questions are these:
1. what fuel pressure do these carbs need?
2. does anyone make an intake manifold for my car to run on bike carbs?
3. what carbs are reccommended for my 65 HP monster?

1.the R1-carbs use no more then 3.5 PSI of fuel pressure.
2.Best thing to do Is get some Aluminum machined to a manifold flange and get a machine shope to bend and mill yoru runners, You can have them weld them in place to.
3. Being a 1.7 I would think a smaller carb like those found on honda CBR 600's may be appropriate.