Switching to Bike Carbs. Heres a write up!

[90cabriolet98gti2.0]

I was hoping playing with the distributor and adjustable cam gear would be enough.... And I'm not worried about cold starts mine are the fuel injected (itb) not carbs. Does msd sell the timing box too?

[rysskii3]

I was hoping playing with the distributor and adjustable cam gear would be enough.... And I'm not worried about cold starts mine are the fuel injected (itb) not carbs. Does msd sell the timing box too?

Look on their site, they have everything.

[ncbrock]

I was hoping playing with the distributor and adjustable cam gear would be enough.... And I'm not worried about cold starts mine are the fuel injected (itb) not carbs. Does msd sell the timing box too?

I dont think you want to go the msd route for ITB's. Sure that sorts out your ignition, but what are you doing about fueling? Stock engine management wont fuel the ITBs properly so your going to have to go stand alone, and most stand alone computers can do fuel,spark, and everything in one system. I think you need to do some more research

[90cabriolet98gti2.0]

How wouldn't it fuel them properly? And I know standalone can do all of that I would rather not have to pay a massive amount for just a standalone if msd is working for everyone else and is 1/4th the price....

[oldschool eighty8]

what hes saying is msd is ignition only. You'll never get itb's to run properly on stock fuel managment. Your better off buying a stand alone that is capable of controling both fuel and spark.

[ncbrock]

How wouldn't it fuel them properly? And I know standalone can do all of that I would rather not have to pay a massive amount for just a standalone if msd is working for everyone else and is 1/4th the price....

yes, everyone here is running msd fine because they are running carbs not ITB's. Carbs mechanically inject the fuel and ITB's rely on a computer. A used Megasquirt setup will be about the same price as all the msd stuff you have to get fyi

[90cabriolet98gti2.0]

Thanks for the help

[90cabriolet98gti2.0]

Nevermind on the itbs I got 2 40mm weber-italy for cheap and couldnt pass up the chance.

[vrally]

Where did you find the upper crankcase breather that adapts under the oil fill cap?
And beautiful intake manifold.
I was so proud of mine that I adapted from the stock manifold untill I test fit it last week and couldn't shut the hood. I'll be cutting it down this weekend and hoping round 2 will provide more accurate alignment with the carbs... And a hood that will close.
I was realy wanting to vent the valve cover, that is a simple and elegant solution.

[rysskii3]

Where did you find the upper crankcase breather that adapts under the oil fill cap?
And beautiful intake manifold.
I was so proud of mine that I adapted from the stock manifold untill I test fit it last week and couldn't shut the hood. I'll be cutting it down this weekend and hoping round 2 will provide more accurate alignment with the carbs... And a hood that will close.
I was realy wanting to vent the valve cover, that is a simple and elegant solution.

Early 2000s bug

[rysskii3]

ICM to timing control, to stay retard, to 6A it ignition box + rpm module.

[rysskii3]

[YJSAABMAN]

Not bad! Any cams in yours rysskii?

Bought a house, been busy getting the bike carb'd project's new home ready for it. It's going to be so nice to be able to set this garage up how I want it! The epoxy paint went down on the floor last weekend.

[rysskii3]

Not bad! Any cams in yours rysskii?

Bought a house, been busy getting the bike carb'd project's new home ready for it. It's going to be so nice to be able to set this garage up how I want it! The epoxy paint went down on the floor last weekend.

I have tt euro cams

[Dr.Steels]

bought carbs. i got some keihin cvk40's anybody ever use these?

[vrally]

Here's where I'm at.
My 89' GTI I swaped a 2.0 16v 9a into it.
I ran it on the 1.8 PL's CIS-e system with some sucess but the fuel distributor was always an issue as was the injectors, I had a o2 guage hooked up and it would jump arround more than a rabbit at a dog show.
I bought Mikuni 40's off a yamaha r1. Cut the lower intake manifold down to about an inch from where the molding injector cups was about an inch away from the end of the runner. Now the carbs were alligned narrower than the runners but with good 3" 5 ply sylicon 2" to 1 3/4" reducers and a little trimming I got a manifold that I have relative faith in. And was able to shut the hood with the cone air filter just tuching the hood when closed.
The old injector cups removed a 1/2" to 3/8" NPT steel hardware store variety reducer bushing was threaded into. a 3/8 thread to 1/2" barbed fitting threaded into that. From there 1/2" fuel hose and 1/2" L and T fittings were configured and compiled in series and leading to the vaccume port for the brake booster, while also alowing for access to each individual port for dynamic vaccume syncronization of the throttle plates.
Fueling is: in-tank transfer pump to 3/8 (AN-6) fuel line to clear glass fuel filter to holly 140 GPH low pressure pump to a large canister style fuel filter (to act as a fuel pulse damper), then to a T fitting 1 leading to the low pressure regulator set at about 3 psi then to the carbs themselves, the other line to cheep high pressure regulator set at arround 8-10 psi leading to return line to the fuel tank.
Fuel vent line from the charcol is run to a vaccum port placed in the top of the cone air filter along with the catch can vent for the crankcase and the various vents for the carbs.
Ignition is to be the stock knock sensor & electronics of the cis-e system. Am I hereing this right that there is no advance on this system? I'll be consitering a vaccume advance dizzy of so.
What car can I steal one from. Volvo turbo?
Need more info on an initial tune as carbs to manifold installing is an off the car endevor with my manifold to carb alignment. I want to get pretty close to start. No cat stock 1.8 2 1/8" exhaust w/1.8 8v GTI single outlet rear muffler, Stock 9a engine, R1 carbs on a short runner. Looking for midrange / low end over peak hp for now.
Also throttle cable help. A part # would rock. I'm about to take brake cables off BMX and try it.
Am I missing anything??
I want to pull the choke from the dash. Farm and Home tractor choke cable was my first thought.
Thoughts?

[RVWISBD]

Ok guys i recently decided to go to carbs after reading this thread so i traded a ABA long block for a setup as follows:

2001 R1 carbs

foam filters

manifold

couplers and clamps

carter fuel pump

holly FPR

mr gasket fp gauge

Saab turbo dizzy w/vac advance

Wide band

I have a 9A 2L 16V block that i am going to rehone and replace upper and lower bearings and rings. I will need throttle cable and choke cable. Now my question is where do i pull the vaccum off of for the dizzy? Can i T off the carbs vac? or does it really matter where as long it is vaccum?

The plan is to get it running then strap on a Gladder charger from a Corrado that i have and schrick 268 cams plus a ported head and a 100 shot of NOS If i go boosted i will attain dial a jet kit for each carb to make it for a easier tune

Is there anything else someone wants to add to my basic parts list that i first spoke of? Or any for that matter? Thanks guys i cant wait!!!!

[yeayeayea]

I foresee much heartache in trying to boost through bike carbs.

Any vacuum source is fine, as long as it is true engine vacuum.

What year/model/engine is the car stock?

[RVWISBD]

I foresee much heartache in trying to boost through bike carbs.

Any vacuum source is fine, as long as it is true engine vacuum.

What year/model/engine is the car stock?

Thanks for the reply as for the motor i have no clue its a 2L 9A block that was given to me and has been sitting so i decided to do something with it and saw the carb post and ding ding ding lights came on. And i am putting it in a 96 GTI shell, It shouldn't be too hard to boost that carb setup with the dial a jets and wideband. It should be wicked and a ton of fun if i did do it lol! I will try after i get the base together and running.

[RVWISBD]

Also with the Saab dizzy do i just set the timing as normal and hook the Vac advance line up and im good to go????.....

[YJSAABMAN]

Here's where I'm at.
My 89' GTI I swaped a 2.0 16v 9a into it.
I ran it on the 1.8 PL's CIS-e system with some sucess but the fuel distributor was always an issue as was the injectors, I had a o2 guage hooked up and it would jump arround more than a rabbit at a dog show.
I bought Mikuni 40's off a yamaha r1. Cut the lower intake manifold down to about an inch from where the molding injector cups was about an inch away from the end of the runner. Now the carbs were alligned narrower than the runners but with good 3" 5 ply sylicon 2" to 1 3/4" reducers and a little trimming I got a manifold that I have relative faith in. And was able to shut the hood with the cone air filter just tuching the hood when closed.
The old injector cups removed a 1/2" to 3/8" NPT steel hardware store variety reducer bushing was threaded into. a 3/8 thread to 1/2" barbed fitting threaded into that. From there 1/2" fuel hose and 1/2" L and T fittings were configured and compiled in series and leading to the vaccume port for the brake booster, while also alowing for access to each individual port for dynamic vaccume syncronization of the throttle plates.
Fueling is: in-tank transfer pump to 3/8 (AN-6) fuel line to clear glass fuel filter to holly 140 GPH low pressure pump to a large canister style fuel filter (to act as a fuel pulse damper), then to a T fitting 1 leading to the low pressure regulator set at about 3 psi then to the carbs themselves, the other line to cheep high pressure regulator set at arround 8-10 psi leading to return line to the fuel tank.
Fuel vent line from the charcol is run to a vaccum port placed in the top of the cone air filter along with the catch can vent for the crankcase and the various vents for the carbs.
Ignition is to be the stock knock sensor & electronics of the cis-e system. Am I hereing this right that there is no advance on this system? I'll be consitering a vaccume advance dizzy of so.
What car can I steal one from. Volvo turbo?
Need more info on an initial tune as carbs to manifold installing is an off the car endevor with my manifold to carb alignment. I want to get pretty close to start. No cat stock 1.8 2 1/8" exhaust w/1.8 8v GTI single outlet rear muffler, Stock 9a engine, R1 carbs on a short runner. Looking for midrange / low end over peak hp for now.
Also throttle cable help. A part # would rock. I'm about to take brake cables off BMX and try it.
Am I missing anything??
I want to pull the choke from the dash. Farm and Home tractor choke cable was my first thought.
Thoughts?

The CIS-e ignition system uses electronic/mechanical advance, not a vacuum advance, but does have advance built in. And the distributor to use on a 9A comes from a 16V Saab 900 Turbo from the late '80s/early '90s.

For tuning info, just search through here. I know it's a ton of info to sort through, but there's a lot of basic jetting/idle setting info in there. Maybe we need a separate jets/needles/idle bleeds/tuning post to make that info a little easier to find? My setup isn't running, yet, and it's also on an 8V, not a 16V.

For the choke cable on my setup I used a Dorman or a Holley brand 6' choke cable. It operates at much tighter angles than I had hoped, and reaches perfectly from the stock dash location. I may go the extra step and buy a roll of heat shrink to give it a nice black outer sheathing.

[vrally]

Thanks for the response, I was starting to fear that this post was starting to dry up. Ya, I think isolating the specific details would be benificial. I have read what I think was pretty well all of this post but, passively, and there is just so much info when I'm only looking for a few specifics.
Actualy, I have gotten some conflicting info on the SAAB distributor. it's actualy the 8v dizzy that fits it turns out. Sounds like what u say is a standard universal 6' choke cable will be the ticket. Looks like that's a good spot to put it. Throttle cable is next. I do wonder if a main jet needle with a diffrent profile would be worth pursuing. Also maby a diffrent idle jet, Though I would prefer a relatively lean idle, I want a fast response to boot.
Ya, I know all this info and I'm still asking questions.
I like to share with like minded folk.
Also I'm anxous and a bit nervous. I might finally go for the first start over this weekend, trying to poke holes in my theories before the moment of truth.
Good to know that there is some timing advance on the stock set-up. I figured there must be. I'm leaving all the sensors hooked up. I know it will want to hear from the temp sensor. Haven't rigged the idle switch or the full throttle yet. The idle will stabilize the timing, and there was an advance with the full throttle switch. Do able but I'm hoping for a creative way that still looks clean.

[RVWISBD]

Thanks for the response, I was starting to fear that this post was starting to dry up. Ya, I think isolating the specific details would be benificial. I have read what I think was pretty well all of this post but, passively, and there is just so much info when I'm only looking for a few specifics.
Actualy, I have gotten some conflicting info on the SAAB distributor. it's actualy the 8v dizzy that fits it turns out. Sounds like what u say is a standard universal 6' choke cable will be the ticket. Looks like that's a good spot to put it. Throttle cable is next. I do wonder if a main jet needle with a diffrent profile would be worth pursuing. Also maby a diffrent idle jet, Though I would prefer a relatively lean idle, I want a fast response to boot.
Ya, I know all this info and I'm still asking questions.
I like to share with like minded folk.
Also I'm anxous and a bit nervous. I might finally go for the first start over this weekend, trying to poke holes in my theories before the moment of truth.
Good to know that there is some timing advance on the stock set-up. I figured there must be. I'm leaving all the sensors hooked up. I know it will want to hear from the temp sensor. Haven't rigged the idle switch or the full throttle yet. The idle will stabilize the timing, and there was an advance with the full throttle switch. Do able but I'm hoping for a creative way that still looks clean.

Do you have a pic of the 8v dizzy? I bought a full kit from a guy and want to know which do i have. Thanks.

[YJSAABMAN]

This model (# 31-95401) appears to fit both 8 and 16V cars.



http://www.ebay.com/itm/A1-Cardone-D...sories&vxp=mtr

[funpig]

Hey Everyone. Its been a while since I have posted. Did a R1 swap about a year and half ago and I have to say it has been a blast so far. The motor is an ABA with a 280 Cam, adjustable gear, header and 2 1/4" exhaust. I changed my main jets out to 200 and that has been fine with this setup.
Heres my question: When getting on the throttle it starts out really strong and then there is a lag about 3500-3800rpm and then it really rips again. Could the lag in the power curve be due to not changing any of the other jets when I changed the main jet? Based on the info provided what would you guys do?

I will post pics later of the 2nd ABA/R1 setup that I just put together on a buddys caddy. This setup is FUN!

[Rheinland Technik]

This model (# 31-95401) appears to fit both 8 and 16V cars.



http://www.ebay.com/itm/A1-Cardone-D...sories&vxp=mtr

You can also use a VW Vanagon distributor, which also have vacuum advance features and the latest thing that I have been working at is a "DIS4" solution, possibly a with vacuum advance feature and a direct replacement for the 16V distributor. I am looking at carbs myself for a new project. That or a set of ITBs, but as of right now, it is still in planning stages.

[yeayeayea]

Easiest way to switch to bike carbs, buy my car! :






Also, I dont know if it's ever been pointed out in here, but if you use the stock knockbox ignition such as that found on the cis-e cars, you wont have a rev limiter. At least my car does not. I believe rev limiter on our cars is done with the ECU by cutting the fuel pump relay off.

Here is what 8k sounds like without that pesky rev limiter

[rysskii3]

Easiest way to switch to bike carbs, buy my car! :






Also, I dont know if it's ever been pointed out in here, but if you use the stock knockbox ignition such as that found on the cis-e cars, you wont have a rev limiter. At least my car does not. I believe rev limiter on our cars is done with the ECU by cutting the fuel pump relay off.

Here is what 8k sounds like without that pesky rev limiter

I don't have a rev limiter either. Used stock icm with MSD setup. Some MSD ignition boxes have a rev limiter adjuster.

[Dr.Steels]

Got my intake flange today.. What length runners are you boys using?

[yeayeayea]

Got my intake flange today.. What length runners are you boys using?

Whatever would clear the hood. I would say mine are probably only 3-4" long tops.

I can measure them when I get back home later tonight.

[oldschool eighty8]

This is what happens when you go to 8k using a spec clutch, don't buy spec clutches



And another

[rysskii3]

This is what happens when you go to 8k using a spec clutch, don't buy spec clutches

damn. mine survived 70+ laps of track and a few autox. also, much beating on the street and a few 4k dumps.

[oldschool eighty8]

Hey Everyone. Its been a while since I have posted. Did a R1 swap about a year and half ago and I have to say it has been a blast so far. The motor is an ABA with a 280 Cam, adjustable gear, header and 2 1/4" exhaust. I changed my main jets out to 200 and that has been fine with this setup.
Heres my question: When getting on the throttle it starts out really strong and then there is a lag about 3500-3800rpm and then it really rips again. Could the lag in the power curve be due to not changing any of the other jets when I changed the main jet? Based on the info provided what would you guys do?

I will post pics later of the 2nd ABA/R1 setup that I just put together on a buddys caddy. This setup is FUN!

I had this issue also, that point in the rpm range is the transition from the pilots to the main jets. Turn your pilots out 1/4 turn at a time til it smooths out

[oldschool eighty8]

damn. mine survived 70+ laps of track and a few autox. also, much beating on the street and a few 4k dumps.

I was told they had a bad batch of pressure plates that went out.
Your lucky, this clutch only had about 1k miles on it.

[rysskii3]

I was told they had a bad batch of pressure plates that went out.
Your lucky, this clutch only had about 1k miles on it.

how do you know which batch is good or bad? i would like to pull put my receipt and see when i purchased it.