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    Thread: The complete guide on casting parts

    1. 12-02-2009 02:27 PM #51
      I don't think you'll need the lacquer, I didn't coat my plaster core box with anything at all, I just very throughly cleaned off the release agent from molding process and I found that the core sand with the silicate binder pulled away from the plaster without any trouble at all.


      Modified by ABA Scirocco at 2:34 PM 12-2-2009

    2. 12-02-2009 02:32 PM #52
      Really? Im not going to use Co2 cure in this, just normal green sand with a chaplet pin down the centre, I may need all the release powers I can get, It should be ok though, its pretty small...
      If not, ill wait for my proper sands to arrive, but I dont see why green sand shouldn't be able to pull it off on this core

    3. 12-02-2009 02:42 PM #53
      For a relative small simple core like this, I think normal green sand should work okay, dust the core box with a little talc or other suitable parting compound and I think you'll get a good release
      For the more complex and delicate cores you'd need for a cylinder head, I'm quite sure green sand will not be adequate. What type of core binding agents do you plan to use for those?

    4. 12-02-2009 03:06 PM #54
      Oil bond along with co2 cure sand. I have to do a lot of testing yet but co2 will be my main choice. I have some talc here ill try that first, ive read though that it has to be water proof dust, like parting dust, I really dont know till I try stuff [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

    5. 12-02-2009 06:03 PM #55
      This bit is just a fast ''get to know the procedure'' rundown for me, Im waiting for the core mould to dry out fully so I may as well. I want to see how the sand holds it shape and if I need to add more bentonite. I also want to get familiar with the tools, ramming the mould, and how easy the sand is to work when cutting the gate, removing sprue former, etc...
      Its also a test as to how the sand comes up on camera and if the various shapes can be seen in it.
      Everything is laid out on a clean board.
      The cope and drag, the plate and the various tools. Even after studying casting for ages I still sometimes forget as to which is which with reference to the cope and drag, I remember them this way, drag starts with a ''D'' ''Down'' starts with a ''D'' also so I think of the drag as ''down'' or bottom so that kinda makes sense for me!! Im still going to call them the top and bottom flask for a while so no need to worry yet, actually, I may just write it on them so the camera picks it up to avoid confusion.


      The tools used, I have seen these called different names so Im going to use the ones I know, from left to right:
      The moulding trowel, The sprue former, The pattern screw(used to remove half a pattern from the sand), The mini heart trowel, The Gate trowel, and The vent wire.


      The bottom flask(drag) is placed on a clean board and the moulding sand container behind it(which should be kept closed to prevent it drying out)


      Its filled up a bit, paying attention to filling around the sides first.

      The sand is rammed with a stick, but not too hard or this could effect the sands permeability, if its too tight the gas/steam may have trouble passing through it and the mould could rupture before the metal hardens.

      More sand is added and packed.

      Any excess sand is drawn off with a stick pulled along the top edges of the flask.
      The parting plate is then fitted.
      Of course in this mock up, I wont really be using the lower flask as I wont be pouring any metal, but its no harm to fill it to practice..

      The upper flask is fitted(cope).

      I placed in a random part with a bit of detail, the part has a good draft angle on the sides so it will release from mould no bother, its actually a seat winder from a Mk2.

      Sand is sprinkled on first then the flask is filled around sides filling in to centre around the part.
      At this point the sprue or ''fill'' former is also placed, its just a bit of tapered timber.

      The sand is rammed and more is added.

      Rammed again and the finishing top layer is added and packed.

      Once flat or pretty flat a scoop or funnel shape is dug around riser with the trowel, this helps with the pouring and guides metal in.
      Its actually hard to see it here which means Ill have to take the flange moulding pics a bit different or at a different angle to fully show things off fully, but thats what this test is for.

      Once thats done the top flask(drag) is lifted off, you can now see the underside of the pattern, and the tip of the sprue former. The flask is on its edge here so you can now see how much of a hold the sand has inside it.
      One thing I noticed is, some sand came out between the flask and parting plate as I rammed it, you can see it all around the edge, Im going to have to clamp the flasks together on the proper run.

      Once the pattern is removed, You can see the sand detail, the shape got a bit lost when photographed so again Ill have to change the angles I take them at in the real run, but you get the idea. The detail was held very crisply so Im pretty happy with the sand.

      The sprue former is now removed in a twisting action from the top, it comes out pretty easy. I cut a rough gate from the sprue to the part just to see how easy the sand is to work, it cuts real good and sand Is harder than you think!

      Thats the test done, Im happy with the sand, it seems to be ok, Ill have to try photographing it a bit different for the flange run but I think I should be able to capture it a bit better. Its pretty hard see the detail in them photos.
      Up next, Fixing the flange patterns to the parting plate. [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

    6. Member secondgen's Avatar
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      12-02-2009 06:26 PM #56
      wow.
      Proud Customer of Phenix Engineering

    7. Member turbinepowered's Avatar
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      12-03-2009 06:09 PM #57
      So the cope's the top one, right?
      So maybe... "Cope" and "Cap," the cope's the cap flask?
      Quote Originally Posted by zukiphile View Post
      There is an area of a normal brain that lets the owner know the object works and needs to be left alone. Not all of us have it. It is like being colorblind.

    8. 12-03-2009 06:45 PM #58
      Quote, originally posted by turbinepowered »
      So the cope's the top one, right?
      So maybe... "Cope" and "Cap," the cope's the cap flask?

      Correct. Cope (or a variation of it) is the word for head in several European languages, German, Dutch etc. I thinks that's probably where the word comes from. Your head's on top of your body, the cope's on top of the mold.
      Here's a picture of one of my molds with a few of the parts and features labeled.


      The box the mold is made is is referred to as the flask, they're usually in two pieces, top and bottom, cope and drag respectively, some more complex mold require a flask with more than two piece, the additional pieces are called cheeks.
      The sprue is a hole that runs all the way through the cope, you pour the metal into the sprue, from the sprue, the molten metal goes through the runner and fills the mold and the riser.
      The riser is a reservoir of metal which, if you've designed it properly is the last thing to solidify, metal shrinks quite a lot when it solidifies, the riser helps control/eliminate shrinkage defects.
      The core fills selected sections of the mold cavity thus allowing hollow castings to be made.





      Modified by ABA Scirocco at 6:51 PM 12-3-2009

    9. Member GTijoejoe's Avatar
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      12-04-2009 09:12 PM #59
      wow, this is an awesome informative thread on casting..... brings me back to college
      2.0T+034efi+meth = 300+whp = Part out PM me for anything

    10. Member wantacad's Avatar
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      12-06-2009 04:14 AM #60
      wow! [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG] [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]
      Going to follow this thread.
      Quote Originally Posted by WackyWabbitRacer View Post
      You're new here but don't be a DORK.....
      Cheers, WWR.
      Quote Originally Posted by rte7x9 View Post
      Don't swap if you can't weld or fabricate. It's not a trivial task just to bolt everything up. There's a lot of nut-scratching involved. Take your time and do it right.

    11. 12-06-2009 11:14 AM #61
      Thanks, Ill be giving it another update later on. [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

    12. 12-14-2009 09:27 PM #62
      Bump for any updates? Watching patiently

    13. Member mudanddust's Avatar
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      12-14-2009 10:24 PM #63
      this is rad

    14. Member mudanddust's Avatar
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      12-16-2009 09:51 PM #64
      whats that alt flange in the beginning off of?

    15. 12-17-2009 05:32 PM #65
      Sickest thread on the entire internet.
      Markku Kivinen | Agtronic Motorsport

    16. 12-19-2009 03:08 PM #66
      @ Mudandust a Polo 6n classic I think!
      More updates soon ands loads more to follow, Ive Just changed cars to an Oakgreen Gti so that took up time, also pretty busy with work coming up to Christmas, stay tuned!




      Modified by chippievw at 12:10 PM 12-19-2009

    17. Junior Member zippy_vw_gti's Avatar
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      01-20-2010 02:02 PM #67
      Are there any updates? This is great information on casting, like all of the threads you create. You, chippievw, are amazing with all the information you post.

    18. 01-21-2010 02:56 PM #68
      Updates coming in the next few days, Im re organising the cars around the workshop, and making the place generally more casting friendly so that its in turn safer as well. Im also making room to fab up the bigger smelter as it going to be quite big. We also had 3 weeks of very cold weather which pretty much froze everything inside and out.
      Ive to finish up the crankshaft post too but thats minor enough compared to the organisation needed for this thread in order to keep both the process and the pictures as clean as possible, and hopefully easy to follow. Thanks to all watching for your patience. Im looking forward to the next number of steps myself too.
      Brian.

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      01-29-2010 02:10 AM #69
      wow. this has to be one of the best threads of all time. looking forward to the finish product
      Quote Originally Posted by Lieutenant Dan View Post
      the answer to your question: Another veyron with a freer flowing exhaust and 4 gt30 turbos

    20. Member Bazmcc's Avatar
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      02-11-2010 05:17 AM #70
      Any more updates coming soon Brian?
      I keep checking back just to make sure i haven't missed anything.

    21. 02-25-2010 04:43 PM #71
      Update on the way soon guys, more info here(link) on what Im working at at the moment, skip through the pages, machine will also be able to skim castings etc. For anyone thats about to say a fabed machine will never beat a cast one, steps can be taken to make sure they can very much as good. In the mean time, read the link below I know you will like it, lot of stuff in there, and Talk soon Guys,
      Brian. [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]
      http://vagdrivers.net/forums/i...39794

      Modified by chippievw at 1:46 PM 2-25-2010


      Modified by chippievw at 1:47 PM 2-25-2010

    22. 02-25-2010 07:16 PM #72
      Quote, originally posted by chippievw »
      http://vagdrivers.net/forums/i...39794

      That's just crazy! I LOVE it [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

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      02-25-2010 07:57 PM #73
      That's hardcore. [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

    24. Member wantacad's Avatar
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      02-26-2010 03:35 AM #74
      Holy moley!
      The skimmer project is
      Quote Originally Posted by WackyWabbitRacer View Post
      You're new here but don't be a DORK.....
      Cheers, WWR.
      Quote Originally Posted by rte7x9 View Post
      Don't swap if you can't weld or fabricate. It's not a trivial task just to bolt everything up. There's a lot of nut-scratching involved. Take your time and do it right.

    25. 02-26-2010 08:35 AM #75
      Thanks Guys, Hope you can see all the pics on there? Ill be running the carriage via a stepper motor and the quill travel also. Slowly but surely....back on here soon with the rest of the casting thread, as you can see, its all go!
      Updates on the link above daily.
      Brian

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