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    Thread: The complete guide on casting parts

    1. 04-15-2010 07:23 PM #126
      @ Turbinepowered, yep thats pretty much the deal, they pump the oil back to oil tank.

      More from this eve>
      Bit of a boring update but cooler stuff to follow...
      Got the form rough sanded in prep for the slurry coat of filler, I may give it two coats yet, but I may hit it all smooth first time, Ill see when I start sanding once the slurry coat dries.




      I mixed it about as thick as soup...


      Paints(slobbers) on pretty good...dries quick though, ten minutes and the brush was starting to resemble all my other 'used' brushes...



      I have a few checks to do once its finish sanded...that is, measure in from timber slips to plaster above and below part line, to make sure the plaster is exactly opposite itself so that there wont be a little step when both carbon fibre halves are brought together, If ya know what I mean...
      A quick pic of the 1.8 crank, c/w trigger wheel...

      Brian.

    2. 04-15-2010 07:45 PM #127
      Is that the plug to make a mold? Or, do you plan to use it as a mandrel and form the CF part directly over top of the foam?
      A couple years ago, I had occasion to make a quick and dirty air box for a DCOE carb. I made a polystyrene foam mandrel and coated it with joint filling compound much the same way you did but I used a joint compound that dries rather than setting up, the advantage of that is after it hardens up, you can make soft again by soaking it in water. What this allowed me to do was to form the air box in one piece, after my resin had set up, I used acetone to dissolve out the foam, then soaked the air box in warm water for a few hours and rinsed out the softened joint compound leaving me with a nice clean hollow shell.


      Modified by ABA Scirocco at 7:51 PM 4-15-2010

    3. 04-16-2010 08:52 AM #128
      I plan on laying the fibre( 2 layers) right onto it, vacuum bagging it, removing from bag, another 2 layers and that should do it. I hope they will come off form, they should* but if not, I can hack out/dissolve the foam and filler as you did. I have a good feeling I wont have to considering its in two halves, but ya know how things can change...

    4. 04-16-2010 02:06 PM #129
      Few updates, Had to sieve and oil the sand before I could do any more casting as it was gone a bit dry and lumpy...
      Passed through the riddle...


      Also mulled it after, engine oil works fine...its a slow job doing it by hand/trampling I need to make an automated muller soon...


      Got the patterns finish sized and smoothed...

      Moulding it up...I did these two first as I was a bit tight for room to do the three at once...

      Filled...

      Turned over...

      Raked out around edge radius to make sure It fills with sand ok since it was filled face down on a flat board some sand didn't make it tight around and under pattern...
      Fitted a very crude sprue also!...

      Vented...

      Filled...

      Charge ready for ignition...lining in smelter is holding up pretty well for home-made refractory...

      Poured...




      Moulding up the third part...same as above,


      Poured...




      Something like this>

      Bit of machining to be done of course, and a few other bits made, back plate, mount brackets, but ya, that's them three parts cast and out of my head anyway.
      Got the plenum sanded also, gave it one more light coat, that should do with regards final smoothing...Ill know tomorrow once its dry.


      Brian.

    5. Member sdezego's Avatar
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      04-16-2010 09:05 PM #130
      I don't want to keep posting this, but WTF, you are insane. ...and this is coming from someone who previously thought they were insane, LOL
      Your talent and attention to detail is absolutely amazing. I am constantly watching your threads, so please keep it up.
      Also, I am 1/2 Iti and 1/2 Irish with ancestors from Galway. So, if I ever make it that way I am looking you up and taking you out to get faced
      Build: Project sc2020

      My G60 now on MS3 | 4Cyl Torque Plate Rental | 02M Mounts

    6. 04-17-2010 02:50 PM #131
      Quote, originally posted by sdezego »
      I don't want to keep posting this, but WTF, you are insane. ...and this is coming from someone who previously thought they were insane, LOL
      Your talent and attention to detail is absolutely amazing. I am constantly watching your threads, so please keep it up.
      Also, I am 1/2 Iti and 1/2 Irish with ancestors from Galway. So, if I ever make it that way I am looking you up and taking you out to get faced

      Ha ha!! Post away my man, thats what forums are for! .
      Galway ya? Im about 20min from there, if your about sometime drop me a line sure, was out sailing on the Lough Corrib actually today, Im sure you've heard of it. [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]
      Few snaps, why not, its nice to get out of my cave once in a while

      Ashford Castle bay>


      Inchagoill Island>





      Castle kirk Island and Castle>

      Real craftsmanship and nearly 800yrs old, Irish weather included



      And one last one
      [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

      Enjoy, thats about as Galway/Connemara as you'll EVER see on Vortex
      To everyone else, sorry for posting off topic pictures but the man has Galway connections, which is rare on here [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]
      Ill return to my cave now and resume my normal day to day fumblings
      Sailing is great peace and quiet for thinking though [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]
      Brian.

    7. Member Issam Abed's Avatar
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      04-17-2010 08:34 PM #132
      Brian,
      You are truely an asset to the Volkswagen community. I have always loved your documentation and all I have to say is POST MORE! [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

    8. Member frechem's Avatar
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      04-17-2010 10:13 PM #133
      Quote, originally posted by Issam Abed »
      Brian,
      You are truely an asset to the Volkswagen community. I have always loved your documentation and all I have to say is POST MORE! [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

      I agree with Issam. Keep it up. [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]


      Modified by frechem at 7:41 PM 4-17-2010

    9. Member sdezego's Avatar
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      04-17-2010 11:37 PM #134
      [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG] Thanks for the friendly detour and amazing pics. Now, back to work
      Build: Project sc2020

      My G60 now on MS3 | 4Cyl Torque Plate Rental | 02M Mounts

    10. 04-20-2010 02:49 PM #135
      Quote, originally posted by Issam Abed »
      Brian,
      You are truely an asset to the Volkswagen community. I have always loved your documentation and all I have to say is POST MORE! [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

      Nice to hear that coming from you Issam [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]
      Update, the ecu, megasquirt, want to give this a try for a change, Ill be able to play around with it which is good!
      Opened it up to check soldering, these are hand built, its spot on>


      The enclosure, Ill be binning this for a higher automotive spec enclosure, this one isn't fully sealed>

      Loom>


      One temp sender I got with it>

      The knock controller>


      The communication's cable>

      Got the former almost ready for fibre, nearly all smooth now just to go over a few bits. I had hoped to fibre this this week, hopefully my vacuum bags will come in time so that I can.(volcano dust cloud holding up air transport)

      Im going working on finishing the slide throttles now, there aint a whole lot left to do really so I better get them out of the way before I start the throttle to head runners(Which will be a pretty complex mould layout)

      Brian.

    11. 04-20-2010 02:52 PM #136
      @ frechem, forgot to say thanks also, thanks!
      @ sdezego, glad you enjoyed the detour, lol. Im back at it again now, youll be glad to hear!!
      Brian.G

    12. Member MikkiJayne's Avatar
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      04-20-2010 06:17 PM #137
      Quote, originally posted by chippievw »
      Im back at it again now, youll be glad to hear!!

      [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]
      Throw an Audi engineer down a hole with a ladder and he will fashion a shovel from it and tunnel his way out

      Quote Originally Posted by shwak23 View Post
      You could always call your insurance and say that some vandals tried to swap your car to rwd while you weren't looking.

    13. Member sdezego's Avatar
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      04-20-2010 10:24 PM #138
      You will love Megasquirt. It was by far the best thing I ever did. I am also running knocksense as you have and have and had a great experience with it.
      Build: Project sc2020

      My G60 now on MS3 | 4Cyl Torque Plate Rental | 02M Mounts

    14. 04-21-2010 06:13 AM #139
      Quote, originally posted by sdezego »
      You will love Megasquirt. It was by far the best thing I ever did. I am also running knocksense as you have and have and had a great experience with it.

      Thats what I like to hear [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG] Im looking fwd to it too, and the flexibility that goes with it

    15. 04-22-2010 02:23 AM #140
      ..... im just blown away . like having hard time just breathing ... this thread is so full of AWESOME!!!! man i thought you were nuts when i saw you make the water neck, now it turned out to be a totally other game O_o
      all of this made with relatively low technology and stuff hangin in most garages/shops. it's truly amazing. wood , rulers , chisels , i really like how you use the router and jigs/stencils to cut tje contours and shave the stuff , wow im kinda even feeling weird seeing all of this been done this way , then now just like it wasnt sick enought you are pulling out some mad trumpets and plenum.... woah never seen someone work this well . i mean there is alot of good fabricators on this website but it's just not the same arena
      congratulations for the man you are , mad skills

    16. 04-23-2010 07:28 PM #141
      Quote, originally posted by PeOpLeG60T »
      ..... im just blown away . like having hard time just breathing ... this thread is so full of AWESOME!!!! man i thought you were nuts when i saw you make the water neck, now it turned out to be a totally other game O_o
      all of this made with relatively low technology and stuff hangin in most garages/shops. it's truly amazing. wood , rulers , chisels , i really like how you use the router and jigs/stencils to cut tje contours and shave the stuff , wow im kinda even feeling weird seeing all of this been done this way , then now just like it wasnt sick enought you are pulling out some mad trumpets and plenum.... woah never seen someone work this well . i mean there is alot of good fabricators on this website but it's just not the same arena
      congratulations for the man you are , mad skills

      Well be sure and breathe anyway LOL at your whole reply actually
      Ah its handy enough, just a matter of putting your mind too it [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

      Onto fitting the throttle stops>
      Trimmed the plate to length first>



      The fixing hole for spring pillar>

      Fibre bored fine...

      Tapping>

      I have to get washers and nyloc nuts for everything in general but Ill mock it up with normal nuts for the time being. Some bolts are too long also, I have to size these once done...

      Sizing the phosphor bushes>

      These locate snug in spring eyes, even though they(springs) will be pre-loaded in the rest position I do not want anything rattling(ever), this is a major point throughout all the design with everything>

      I know what your thinking, its very near the edge!! I tested an off-cut of carbon, there's no way in hell thats going to pull out of there, its fantastic stuff>


      Bored also>

      Bolted>(Ignore the overly big nut for the time being)>

      Time for the idle stop>
      Bored>

      Counter-bored>

      The lower part is off a racer bike(pushbike), 316 stainless>
      I based the stop(s) design around them>

      The bush is there so I can get a spanner on the small nut in order to adjust it, and lock it off without spanner snagging cast stop tab>

      Tightened up, end of bolt bearing fully on brass throttle tab>

      Quick end view>(Plenum form needs final finishing)>

      And from the front>

      Time for the full throttle stop and cable guides>

      Bored>

      And counter-bored, I counter drilled to the same depth as Idle stop as drill press was still set, but used a washer to bring height to where it needs to be>

      You can see the outer diameter of ferrule bears on throttle plate. This ferrule does two things, acts as an adjustable stop, and also acts as the cable guide>

      Cable passed through, it comes in just at the correct height under brass throttle plate>

      Bored for cable grip, the nut on the grip is being replaced with a nyloc>



      Hole drilled for cable sheath stop, tapped also>

      The holder widens in diameter after the threaded portion, I had to counter-bore down this depth removing the threads in alloy so it would seat on its shoulders>

      Bored>

      In and cable guided through>

      Getting there with this now at last. Once I get my throttle pot ill deal with that also.
      Stay ''Tuned''!
      Brian.



      Modified by chippievw at 4:46 PM 4-23-2010

    17. 04-24-2010 02:09 PM #142
      Got the reamer for the scavenge pump. These are used by hand to accurately ream out an undersized hole to the correct size, and very precise too.
      Got an extremely good deal also, its a Dormer reamer, the normal price was 68euro, I got it for 25euro as I got other stuff too off the same guy.
      You could get one for a tenner but they tend to be crap.



      Onto mounting the throttle potentiometer(pot) and link arm...
      The ecu uses this sender to gauge throttle opening in order to calculate how much fuel is required. This senders range is I think 80 degrees, or just under a quarter turn from idle to wide open throttle. This can be all calibrated with the ecu software but the linkage still has to be near right.
      It works similar to a volume knob on a radio.
      I have no idea what this is off as I found it in my parts bin, its the same as many generic Pot senders and its new.

      You can see the shape my spindle needs to be to fit into it and turn it internally>

      The sender also has slotted mounting holes to enable it to be clocked if its a touch out of range.
      Onto the link bar to fit onto throttle tab and attach to the crank arm which will turn sender>
      6mm aluminium plate, spec, 6061>

      Although this link bar has no real load on it it needs to be stout enough so that it does not vibrate, something I saw once where a guy had used some 2.5mm wire as a link from his butterfly throttles to a remote mount sender, at around 2200rpm the wire started to vibrate much like a bonnet stay does sometimes. This vibration could be seen when looking at the pot input values while the engine was running, I made a better linkage setup for him and he had no probs after that. I don't want that happening with my setup.
      Marking out>

      Drilled out and reamed to 9.80mm>

      Pressing in the bushes>

      In>

      End radius cut and linnished>

      Bending, first bend>

      Second bend, checked and adjusted>

      Lightening hole centres marked and centre punched>

      Drilled, ready for clean-up>


      Ends reduced down to bush width>

      Water-papered>

      Buffed>

      Link is very light and extremely strong.
      Ill be mounting the pot sender next and making the second crank style link to attach to the link above.
      Brian.

    18. 04-25-2010 05:07 PM #143
      Mounting the pot>

      Bush pressed in either side as with link>


      Finished ready for ream>

      Reamed to 6mm>

      Holes drilled for the m4 fixing screws, tapping>

      Tapped>

      The spindle below, this is from a 20v head, its pretty hard get a bolt with a 6mm shank, any bolts I had here had m6 threads alright, but the shank was just 5mm, due to how the threads are formed. So I had to go another route that left me with a 6mm shank, and m6 threads also. Hence the stud.

      Screwed a nut on there and tightened it until it bottomed out, rounded nut after>

      Down to 8mm>

      Because Ill be cutting off a 1/3 of nut I had to tack it on there>


      Cut>

      Now fits into pot>

      Trial test>


      In, and turns free>

      Next up the short link onto pot, this is a crank arrangement and although a crank style link like this is not 100% linear in respect to the rate of throttle opening to the rate the pot will turn because of the crank angle at the start and full open position, its hardly worth worrying about, but worth a mention.
      Im making this in Carbon fibre with a foam core. I could just make it in aluminium but I want to try out carbon over foam also including inserts.






      The bush sticks out .5mm either side, once the carbon is applied and vacuumed this protrusion amount secures the bush in the carbon skin. The carbon can then be sanded leaving the bush flat with the surrounding fibre. It is then both stuck there, located, and with the case of the bush going onto the pot spindle, unable to turn in the link.

      Serrating the pot bush so it gets locked in place>




      Before I hit this with some fibre Im going to heat the pot bush to remove all the oil I can from it so that it bonds better(Phosphor bronze has oil in it for better bearing performance) The pot bush wont be turning on shaft but locked on so it doesn't matter if I do this.

      Im also Interested for down the line projects, in the weight comparison between the above carbon/foam link when done, and a link the same shape, but in alloy.
      Hope to carbon this up later.
      Brian.

    19. Member polov8's Avatar
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      04-25-2010 06:38 PM #144
      Most win ever!

    20. 04-25-2010 07:24 PM #145
      Quote, originally posted by polov8 »
      Most win ever!

      Keeps me out of trouble Andy
      Onto the fibre...
      Because this is a small part going in a small vacuum bag I thought the vacuum pump(its big) was a bit of an overkill to suck the air out so I improvised>
      1 old silicone tube...plunger removed,

      The longest wood screw ya ever saw in your life!>

      Vacuum pump done! >

      Nozzle taped into cut corner of ziploc>


      Done, works good, and holds vacuum,

      The various bits you've seen before>

      Bit of shoe polish on the inside of bag>

      One side laid up>

      Turned over and onto other side, Ill be leaving about 5mm of a lip/flange around edge when trimming where both sides meet>

      All done and inside>

      Checked, then I pulled out plunger as far as I could, worked really well for a basic setup>



      Ill crack it open tomorrow and trim her up, from looking at it, it looks like it'll be ok.

      Brian.

    21. Member wantacad's Avatar
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      04-25-2010 07:39 PM #146
      lol...that is awsome...
      Quote Originally Posted by WackyWabbitRacer View Post
      You're new here but don't be a DORK.....
      Cheers, WWR.
      Quote Originally Posted by rte7x9 View Post
      Don't swap if you can't weld or fabricate. It's not a trivial task just to bolt everything up. There's a lot of nut-scratching involved. Take your time and do it right.

    22. 04-26-2010 12:27 PM #147
      You do some all-some work with your router. [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]
      Can you show us a Picture of your router stand setup & some measurements would be nice as well.
      Until this I have never thought of using a router to this, could have used this idea 10 years ago, when I was using a drill press to try and mill stuff down. What a pain that was.
      Where are you getting your bits to fit your router.
      I was wondering how come you don't chamfer your the holes you drill especially the ones you are tapping. It would keep the threads from being pull above the surface. Just a though, not try to be rude or anything like that.

    23. 04-26-2010 10:23 PM #148
      Quote, originally posted by RRSB_1971 »
      You do some all-some work with your router. [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]
      Can you show us a Picture of your router stand setup & some measurements would be nice as well.
      Until this I have never thought of using a router to this, could have used this idea 10 years ago, when I was using a drill press to try and mill stuff down. What a pain that was.
      Where are you getting your bits to fit your router.
      I was wondering how come you don't chamfer your the holes you drill especially the ones you are tapping. It would keep the threads from being pull above the surface. Just a though, not try to be rude or anything like that.

      Picture of router below, hope it explains it, if not Ill take more for you [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]
      The bits are normal tct items for wood, twin straight flute, bits must be good quality though, that is, plenty of tungsten, and good support behind the tungsten.
      When tapping 6061 alloy I noticed on a test bit, if you do countersink/de-burr it pulls a ridge up in the countersink when tapped, and I ended up with two con-centric circles then. You cant smooth these flat as the pulled up bit is in the countersink and level with the surface, and it looks messy, Im going to go over the lot when done and smooth out everything, then chase the threaded holes to clear them. [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]
      I probably could get my hands on a better countersink bit thats a bit more controllable but the shops around here have limited types, and most are cheap/crap .... Hope this makes sense..
      Dried good, going to give it another day to harden up fully then Ill start trimming>

      Did a bit with the scavenge pump, as I said, I want to keep the bottom end parts moving along as well as the bits for the head...
      Cut off the sprues and marked drill holes, theres a fair few stages involved with these in the line of boring and jigging so it all has to be thought out>

      First bout of drilling>

      A picture of the reamer, its a perfect fit...

      With the parts pinned together I drilled the other hole...

      Drilled>

      All drilled and counter-bored for screw heads>

      Notice its the three hole deal again for mounting when machining, three legged stool never rocks...


      Starting into it...

      First pass at .50mm>

      And the second and final pass>

      I got them all machined as above, either side, three parts in total>

      Ill be drilling the 6mm holes in them larger later, which will mean they'll then be 90 degrees to the newly machined faces...
      I might lap all the faces yet Ill see, although the camera doesn't show it, they're dead flat despite the crazy appearance!>

      You can kinda see where my inlets and outlets need to be above and below rotors>

      Two 6mm rods>

      Its now possible to drill the inlets and outlets>


      I had to pack one side to get the correct angle on the opposite side>

      Enlarging for fittings, Ill be tapping these later, hole is 32mm deep>


      All done, inlets and outlets on both>


      Brian.



      Modified by chippievw at 7:26 PM 4-26-2010

    24. Member turbinepowered's Avatar
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      04-26-2010 11:14 PM #149
      Are you at all worried about porosity of the castings?
      Quote Originally Posted by zukiphile View Post
      There is an area of a normal brain that lets the owner know the object works and needs to be left alone. Not all of us have it. It is like being colorblind.

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      04-27-2010 01:04 AM #150
      1am....i went thru this whole thread...i love u. [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

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