pics uploaded....it was hard to know where to start!
Right, well its great to be back.
Obviously,the machine below changes things a bit, but remember, Im 20yrs dreaming of one. Before Christmas, I finally put that dream to reality and went out and bought one.
I had looked at a lot, the newer ones have pros, and cons. Pros are they are newer, and shiny. But, the new machines have pretty small beds for the money, if you want good travel, you go into insane money fast. I also always loved the movable knee on the bridgeport for doing high work.
I went out with all that in mind and bought a hurco. It had very little done, had been painted, and was used by people that didn't really know how to use it for the last yr hence the digs on the table. There is 3 digs, but Im fine with that. The machine is wear free.
I then gutted the machine of all its electrics as they were added to in spots.
Since the machine is at the bk of my house, I wanted peace of mind in that area.
I retrofitted the entire machine with new parts. I used,
an average new pc/board, incl powersupply.
A pmdx 126 breakout board.
Digikey amt 102 encoders for the x and y original servos.
A nema 34 high torque stepper in place of the z(quill servo) The quill servo although fine, was hard to tune, and get settled at idle. On stripping it down, I found one coil burnt.
I looked at servos and they are insane dear new. So, I bought the stepper. I know they are slower for peck drilling and such, but its fine after testing it a fair bit the weekend.
I removed the original boom arm and made a new one. This houses the glass covered screen, flipout dust proof lid, and the keyboard. The new console was born...
I used the old transformers to drive servos. The gecko motor drivers called for a little lower voltage, so I removed 4 windings to bring the secondary voltage to where I needed it.
That feeds a power prep module(converts to dc and some other stuff) that then feeds the drivers.
The whole thing runs off twin parallel ports.
It was a pretty big job, I had to relearn all the stuff I once sort of knew!
The machine runs mach3 which I find great.
Im running cambam as the drawing tool for the time being as its fine for what I need to do over the next while.
I changed the coolant tank, from the base, to a new tank I made under the left cabinet.
I also fitted a single phase spindle motor to the machine. This took an hr of thinking, as the 3phase is pretty integrated as you can see. I removed cooling fan from 3phase motor and put a pulley on there. A few bits of metal, and some paint and I had a running single phase spindle.
I also had to refit the coolant pump and all lines as it was 3 phase also. The single phase coolant pump motor I got could not be reversed so I had to remake another Impeller for pump from some brass. This was made by hand for fun, and took some time, and some solder...but it works great.
Since I was also redoing the pneumatics of the machine(needed for brake) I built a mister nozzle too.
I kept some manual controls on the new console, some like this, others dont. It saves writing it into programme for coolant control, plus, I like buttons...
There is a small catch can at the end of the bed pipes to give you a chance to fish out small parts, or nuts should they get washed off the table. It works, and saves you fishing in main tank. There is also a swarf filter in the corner of the tank where the coolant drains in. The filter section unbolts from the cap.
I redid the drains on bed too.
Having run a few parts, I can say they work as I want. The perspex shields keep it all under control. All my work is small anyway. For bigger stuff, I can deal with a few splashes.
I made a small shield for one of the coolant nozzles too. The shield is through hole, keeping the nozzle functional when fitted.
I did some trial cuts to set up the machine and confirm accuracy.
You can see a test part being cut towards the end.
I have yet to tidy wiring a little, add some ferrites and add a faraday cage around transformer. The 'important' wiring is high grade double shielded twisted pair robotics grade wire which cost a fortune. But, worth it, as Im seeing no noise at all on the encoder lines.
The motor adapter frame I had to make,
The new impeller, 5 hrs work in that! If I was to cast it there would be just as much work in the pattern, so I said I go right to brass,
The first proper test part, I used wood as splash shields for this run, as I hadnt yet got the perspex ones done at the time,
Next plan is to make a 4th axis to give me more freedom. This will consist of a headstock type setup, running a stepper, and harmonic drive.
Got there at last!
Thanks for the replies, and a game changer indeed
Check this out,
I'm going to add my own note of appreciation here to Brian.
First, I appreciate his generosity in sharing his projects in such detail. The amount of time he has spent posting and photographing must be tremendous and for him to spend that time shows the generous nature of his heart.
Now, with every appreciation is a resentment.
My resentment is that I have lost hours going over this thread, not just once, but twice (so far) - not so much in detail, just hitting the highlights.
Some of my favorite highlights:
Making the venturi, then setting the welder up and blowing a hole for the gas pipe. It was just funny that with all of your skills and knowledge that the best way to make the venturi was with that method.
Using the vernier calipers for measuring. Not digital calipers that any girl can read and not even the cheating dial calipers, but real, vernier calipers where you have to think.
You say it like someone would say, "The road was closed, so I went around". No big deal, just another bump in the road.The gecko motor drivers called for a little lower voltage, so I removed 4 windings to bring the secondary voltage to where I needed it.
Edited to add a couple more:
Your vacuum pump.
Your flycutter for the oil pump end plate bearing.
Anyway, thank you for sharing and caring.
Last edited by whitedog; 04-15-2012 at 07:14 PM.
Hello all, especially Mr. Brian Garvey, I found this thread when it was posted as a link on turbobricks. I am so impressed that I have joined the vortex just to be able to comment occasionally and subscribe so I don't miss any updates. Brian, truly inspiring work and creativity, you da man!
Looking forward to more updates and inspiration!
@ Whitedog, I suppose what you say could come across as being, I dunno, ingenious, but, I just do what works. If your staring at a transformer for long enough, knowing that a new one is 350euro, you eventually figure out a way around by applying science, instead of cash
@evolvo, No need for the Mr, we are all ordinary folk on here
Glad you found it,
@schurg, funny you should say that.....Im fitting an lsd to E39,
I snipped some posts off another forum of the job so here they are.
Keep in mind they are snipped, and edited, so I hope they read ok - fill in the gaps if not.
Im preparing in my free time, to cast a cylinder head. It took me an age to locate resin bond sand, and then to make them sell some. I also had to make a MASSIVE smelter to melt enough alloy, but Ive that done too. So, while the thread is quiet, fear not, Im flat out laying the foundations for part 2.
Enjoy the following little build, Ill update as it happens, bit of a sidetrack, but what the hell
Will be mounting an e34 lsd to it in the coming few days/weekish. I know there is a bit of work to this, and Im not decided on a final drive ratio yet but Ill make up my mind soon. Theres a bit of 'conflict' as to how hard it is to get any Bmw lsd into one of these,
but Ive got two hands, a welder, a cnc, and a casting setup, so Im sure ill figure something out.
Im also going to move the traction control button to the steering wheel. Its in a c-nut of a place where it is(as are cup holders, only two faults with entire car).
Because Ive used up all the spare wires in the steering wheel slip ring ribbon cable, fitting the paddle shifters, Ive chosen to operate the switch wirelessly.
It will be mounted on a carbonfibre/anodised alloy mix tab.
I have to figure out that yet, and the wiring, but Im sure itll be handy enough.
No other mods for the minute, bar four more Vredestein Ultrac Sessantas next week and possibly a carbon/honeycomb engine tray, I have some leftover from something else,
And onto problem number one.
Here lies the Traction cntrl switch, in a shocking spot, along with cup holders. If you have a pile of junk left in tray, cup holders dont work too well.
Keep in mind the Shift lever is in drive here, so you really have to bend your hand around it before setting off when its in park, to press switch.
I turn it on an off a lot.
Off when out on the road, and on again when coming into a town. This car flicks the rear or spins wheels very easy on roundabouts, or at junctions, so its nice to have it on for those, to stop getting looked at.
On the road, a small bit of wheelspin mid corner, and your engine gets cut, and you just sit there, mid corner, all suspension balance upset, waiting for engine to kick again - not good.
Looking down, eyes off the road to turn off switch is dangerous, so, thats really why I want it on the wheel.
Shots of wheel below too, to show where I intend putting it, Itll be going at the 4 o clock position roughly, below paddle on right. (wheel upsidedown in 3rd picture)
Im sure there are some reading, thinking, ''his problems are small if hes going at that'' but this just annoys me, and I dont like stuff annoying me on a daily basis, especially in my own car!
Ok, so I picked up the Diff the last day ,
So, Im back at base now again for a while, so Im starting tearing apart the e34 M5 diff now to see how it looks inside.
My main concerns at the minute, is keeping the final drive ratio similar to mine. I may have to buy another e34 diff for the correct ratio crown and pinion, and also an e39 525-28 diff for mockup. Il,l need to make a custom bracket to fit diff as the hanger is different.
Ill also need to either buy, or machine a rear e39 M5 diff cover in place of the e34 M5 cover as thats different too.
Anyways...lots of stuff to think about, and do, pictures later, should be handy enough.
One or two things, the connector is for the speedo in the e34, and the diff ratio is on the bit of paper, could just make it out off old diff tag.
Gave it all a rough clean too before pulling cover. Its getting all new seals, and paint etc, so Ill be 'surgically' cleaning everything at a later date.
Flanges coming off, these hold the oil seals, and the taper bearing shell, the bearings look fairly ok, so Ill think if I want to change or not when I clean and inspect fully, It is also behind these flanges that spacer shims go to set bearing pre-load, and mesh correctly,
Opening lsd, its is of the clutch type, and not torsen, thankfully. Ive run a torsen in the past, and dont ever want one again.
Bearing unit off, and getting into discs and spacers
As you can see, the clutch disc on one side is worn, as is the cup that it runs on. Ill have to skim this cup to get back to a good surface. Ill also be renewing the spacers and friction discs with new ones.
Because Ill be grinding(blanchard) or milling the poor surface, ill have to regain that lost material with a shim under the belleville(dished) washer to keep preload on clutch packs as it would have n=been when new.
Other than that, its all in great condition, both with the bearings, and tooth mesh wear patterns, so Im pretty happy.
To read how this type diff works, click here> http://auto.howstuffworks.com/differential4.htm
Two more pictures of the car when on lift getting tyres showing its original diff,
Some measuring of stuff with calipers tomorrow in order...
Did a bit of grinding this evening.
The friction face was a bit scored as you saw above.
Couple of passes on the cnc with a cup wheel removed almost a tenth of a mm to get the surface back to good again,
z axis reading almost a tenth when retracted,
Both faces blued and rubbed off surface plate, all looks good,
Ordered new friction discs, and star spacers. Star spacers are oversize in thickness to make up for material ground off above.
Getting a free e39 diff tomorrow, ill be using this to get my location point/mockup for the new front hanger Ill have to make to mount E34 diff, to E39 carrier, since I cant take my car off the road to do this.
So...Bmw want 339euro+vat for the cover. Looks like Ill make one instead.
Im making a cover for the E34 M5 diff as mentioned. The original cover wont mount to subframe, so given the price off Bmw Ill mill my own.
Below is where I started mapping the holes for the new cover. They are pretty important that they are right in the new milled part, so that it bolts up to diff clean.
You could measure the holes with a calipers, and a divider and plot on paper, but having the cnc makes this easier, and more exact.
Ill try explain how its done incase anyone is interested, or thinking of dipping a toe into cnc land soon.
I remember being the same years ago, thinking cncs were mental, and impossible,- but they are actually pretty simple when you get to know them.
Bolted diff to table square.
Fitted a 12mm round over bit. Set mill in center of case approximately and zero'd all axis.
The pictures are a bit crap as Im just getting to know new phone.
Anyone doing this lsd conversion can skip this step and go buy an E39 M5 diff cover off Bmw like a normal person would.
Bolted to table,
All axis zero'd approx in the middle of diff,
New drawing opened, where the cursor is, where x and y lines meet, is 0,0 and since I zero'd all axis, thats now where the bit is too, on the table,
The correct number of circles(holes) are drawn in in roughly the correct position,
The mill is now moved with the jog buttons to all the hole locations on the diff and their coordinates noted, and transferred to drawing. Once you transfer, the circle moves to a new location where the actual hole is on the diff, and where the bit is sitting, this is done for all holes, 'mapping' them exactly onto the new part drawing - as below,
Bit moved to hole position,
Note coordinates, ignoring the z thats the up and down,
Over to drawing, select that circle,
Click coordinates box, and fill in the coordinates from mill screen above,
Circle moves to new position,
This is done with all holes, and all datum points I needed,
Completed hole locations, now on new drawing,
Onto finding the axle center line. Straight edge held to edge of holes, and touched off with pointer in mill,
Y position noted on mill, and then transferred to drawing,
Since the inner diameter of flange hole(!) is 100mm, taking 50mm off that measurement and drawing another line give me the center line of shafts.
There are more accurate ways of doing this with a dial gauge, but its accurate enough considering where it is,
Then more of the same, finding the other datum points, and case edges,
Thats the basic outline down now, complete with hard measurements of where it needs to bolt to.
The rest, is pretty easy, I need to yet draw in the two hanger points(see E39 diff below) And put some proper shapes and profiles on the drawing before I can mill,
You can see the complete E39 diff below(smaller that M5 diff) and also the difference in the rear covers - the E34 M5 cover is 25mm higher than my diff/cover - which is why I need to make another one!
The billet cover will look something like the one below, but taller to cover the diff I just mapped above.
Its actually easier to do all this, than describe it, LOL,
Picked up this today, its a good chunk for sure, bit more work to do yet on the actual drawing before I cut, stay tuned,
Did a bit more drawing, almost done, hope to make a lot of chips later!
Got started on machining,
Another picture of drawing nearly done.
Ill throw up a 3d image later to give a better Idea of how it will look. The drawing below is not the final, there was some minor changes before cutting,
On the table, ready for roughing, roughing was done with a 40mm insert face mill, then the finish pass done with a 10mm cutter to get the corners out.
All work after that was with a 10mm bit. The great thing with aluminum is that you can cut it pretty much as fast as the machine will go with ease - so its fairly quick.
Drilling holes, you'd normally drill holes before final surface is reached because the swarf that comes up from bit can scratch finished surface,
1st level reached, if you look close, you can see a 12mm wide slot top left. This was cut first, and allows coolant to drain from pocket. Since the billet overhangs table front and rear, this is vital for coolant management, the four holes in the center of part are drilled through, and act as drains also,
Ill throw up the finish drawing later, hope to get the topside, and most of the rear done this evening.
Rounding over edges,
Its hard to see all profiles while on table, you can now see the sections where the carbon fiber panels will be. Fitting panels like this means you can profile out the inner sections, rather than machining them all out to form a thin aluminum wall.
The outline cut is done with a different hss cutter, and cut dry for best chip evacuation,
The main cover is now only held to block with a few holding tabs, you will see these in the next bit,
Thats where Im at at the minute, hope to get her complete by tomorrow eve
Again, sorry for thread sidetrack, but sure its all good!(and Aluminium)
@ Whitedog, forgot too, the calipers, it never lies. I got caught badly once with a dial calipers with a loose clock hand, never again.
Barry, cad and cam are tough at first indeed. I use pro-e for work which is great.
But, not everything has to be drawn that way. For example, the diff cover above has been drawn totally with cambam, the cam software. Granted, it has no 3d profiles, but its just what I need.
If you look at a lot of machined parts, they are 90% done this way, using bits for the profiles.
Its also faster, as waterline, followed by pencil finishing is very very slow.
I think the main thing with cad and cam, is to use daily, or play about with daily. Its the only way you'lll find out all the quirks, and remember them too!
Ok, all done,
The jig plate for the other side, the block locates exactly on it with dowels, and is bolted down,
Roughing out the pockets,
Done, and off the table, a little bit of de-burring, and its ready to go,
Just need to drill through the top and bottom bolt holes as they were drilled 1mm shy to stop coolant flowing out of them.
Next up is the fill plug, and the composite panels, and of course the case breather,