And onto the outer section where the hose hows onto, as I mentioned, the flange slides onto an expanding mandrel for ease of chuck up, its also the most accurate way to chuck up this irregular part, using just a 3 jaw chuck.
Chucked up on the mandrel,
And the very simple tool I designed up to turn the hose portion, it also turns the section at the end to hold on hose in the one operation,
The cutting edge,
And how it works when turning, this one is turned as I hadn't a right place to mount a camera steady to video it, but its pretty simple as to how it works,
I start here,
Cut across to here using the top slide, and stopping at 0 on the handwheel,
Then, the top part of jig is rotated to form the part on the end, the pivot bearing of jig is slightly infront of the cutter tip, therefore forming the cut radius,
Done, and off the mandrel,
It took just 20min to do thirty using this jig,
Just have to bore the holes and thats them done, another jig will be used for that to make the whole machining process very fast in total,
Awesome as always...
Question though, regarding your last post... why wouldn't you just make it that way with the mould and cast it that way since it's just for a hose? I understand machining the base but that parts seems like an unecessary step.
Looks great. Now make some transverse 20v ones and some 12v Vr ones and you will be able to fund a lot more of your projects
...really wish I had the time to do some casting. I have been wanting to do it for a very long time.
Keep up the good work!
Brian - a question for you if I may?
Would your casting technique work for copying something fairly thin like a headlamp reflector? I have a Corrado which has useless plastic reflectors, and the silvering is way past its best at 20 years old. Its prohibitively expensive to have the plastic re-plated, and new lights are NLA, but it occurs after reading this thread that an aluminium reflector could be cast, polished then chromed relatively easily by copying the original plastic one?
An aluminium reflector would also let me run high power bulbs, which normally would burn off whatever silvering was left.
What do you think?
Why leave that little extra "step" there instead of running all the way down the o.d. to where the outer radius starts? It looks a little strange leaving that unfinished bit there.
Mikki, You can only really cast 3mm thick, die cast(injection) would be more suitable for thinner sections
I would have thought stainless folded or stamped would work better? I dont know? Havnt seen one in a while to remember exactly what they are like.
@ Frechem, I wanted to stay out from the bigger section, if for any reason the cast there was a little off, an oval cut line where it starts to get bigger would occur, this would be noticeable when viewed from the end.
The clamp length is also the same on the 16v flange, so its enough also at that. Plus, Im cutting the 16v flanges with the same jig, on the same settings.
If you look at the 16v flange, it stops also, granted, the diameter does not enlarge, but my point being, that it has to stop somewhere so I chose to have the cut lengths the same on both
Ill throw up a pic later of what happens if you machine upto the wider bit on the 8v flange, any irregularities on the cast wider bit lead to an uneven finish machine all round, and that looks untidy.
Keep in mind that Im doing a good few, so if the one jig and settings can be made do both flanges then all the better so I dont have to remember a ton of slide measurements.
I hope to get back to this in a day or two(my own engine) Ive been pretty busy with other stuff in the eves the past week..
Time to kick this back into gear now that my eves are free again, got the sodium silicate so Im good to go on that now.
Ive been thinking that I may setup the megasquirt on the current digi engine to get a feel for it, and also to make the loom etc. I dont mind practising on the cars current 8v engine as the lot is scrap anyway, so If I have a period of lean out on the mapping stage it wont worry me. Ive never mapped megasquirt before and I dont really want to practice on my new engine. A tps and pickup is all Ill need to fit to the digi to have a play around, and air temp sender too.
Ironically after a fairly long trip yesterday eve the coolant flange on the side of the head started leaking badly to cap things off. The engine is pretty dirty and leaky in general as Ive done nothing with it since I bought it, but I want to keep as much water inside it all the same as its my daily! So I have too keep it going as long as I can until the big swap. I should probably throw a rocker gasket on there too, but I probably wont...
The bracket holding pipe wasn't under the nutted stud, but a bolt in its place, and the earths had been relocated also..anyway...I threw on one of my own flanges for the time being(shame not to ) to keep things semi reliable.
Tidy isnt it... . complete with water leak,
Old flange, same as all the others go,
New flange, head surface was ok so I felt just an o ring would take care of things,
On, and everything in the right place, the lower bolt should be a stud with a nut holding bracket, but I hadn't one, Itll be grand for the time its there,
Filled, no leakies!!
I cant wait to rip out all that mess incl wiring and perhaps paint bay too before I fit the new stuff, I found a great site that do connectors for my new complete loom, here. I cant wait to tackle the wiring as Im pretty fond of it, and making it neat.
Back to the engine 'building' lark in a day or so,
I think it would be simple enough to build up the stock plastic reflectors to 3mm thick with filler or fiberglass, so that it could be used as a form for the mould. I'll take one to bits at the weekend and have a good look at it
Id like to see some pics if your taking some The brackets may need to be remade as Im sure the alloy would be heavier, which could lead to them breaking if you came down on a bump hard due to higher loads exerted on them with the higher mass/inertia of the new reflectors.
This is a pretty popular motor to swap into the older generations here but one prob comes up is that people don't need the extra sensor ports. So having one without those would be great. or even just having a boss in place so one could add a screw in type sensor if they wanted would be nice too.
Yup we have them here, but they are fairly thin on the ground in terms of conversions, actually, Ive only seen one in person, theres prob a max of 5 here running crossflow, at a guess
Got a new 6'' burr for doing cylinder head, its pretty aggressive for roughing out,
And installed megasquirt software to pc, Im pretty happy with how it all looks and feels so far, its great having full control on everything, I cant wait to start into the electrics side of things also,
Hope to get a lot done tomorrow in the line of making more swarf. Located alloy for my new flywheel also
Check out TunerStudio http://www.efianalytics.com/TunerStudio/. It is what is recommended now and waay better than megatune.
Also, it is written by Phil Tobin who also wrote The VE log analyzer. So, the software can pretty much tune itself as you drive (provided you have a wideband). Or you can log and then analyze and merge your VE from the logs. Best to do it slow and iteratively though. I can get a 98% tune in under an hour.
Thebigmacd, thanks, Ill check that out
More doings, mainly concentrating on the cylinder head, tackled it the weekend as it was annoying me looking at it in all its filth :lol:
I wont bore you all describing every cut, but if anyone wants to know anything just shout, most of this is just roughing work first,
Some of the tools,
Driver for knocking out valve guides,
Incase you dont know height, they sit 61.5mm from head surface when installed, they need to go back in at this installed height,
Spring seats removed,
Cap studs have to come out, locked two nuts on there and out with them,
Broken stud, wd40 and heat,
Farmers tool box used to remove
Cleaned off intake/ex face so I can see what Im at,
Ports blued and marked for raising,
Tool fitted to grinder, I always slip on an old valve guide on there, means you can hold stem, and leave it against port mouth for deep cuts/leverage,
Grinding down to guide line so I can start,
Guide boss roughed down,
You can see the difference now,
I like to do all four in stages together, saves swapping burrs, etc,
Port angle check,
This will be raised a bit when Im done(scribe line)
Started the Titanium retainers also, I roughed down the bar and did a drawing, Ill be doing more of this later,
Someone asked does Titanium swarf burn, yup, it does, heres some swarf with a lighter held to it for a few seconds, light cuts to be taken only, otherwise your machine will go up in a blaze...
Working on the short side radius,
Port raised to scribe line,
And more grinding/blending,
I have to recheck all measurements before I start putting a finer finish on port and tidying it in a few places. Ill then go onto the seat and seat area,
Got the mock bore done. I made one of these before to use when doing the turbulence test with great results, cutting it from the block deck I had made things easier in that I can bolt it to the head instead of using silicone or clips to hold it on there, you'll see why this is needed in the next update, I bored it to 84.10 also, the same size as the my block which Ill be fitting the head to.
Chop chop, (again!)
Faced and bored,
Cleaned on the outside to get a pipe on there,
I am. I want to break a few personal goals with the 8v head first though. Ill then be putting the 16v head(mine) on the same setup, bar the pistons. Oil pump, slide throttle(tad larger bores) brackets sump etc will all be staying there when it goes to 16v. I like my 8vs too ya know
But all the stuff is mainly aimed at the 16v head to be honest, which is why Im going to so much trouble with it all!
Ill update this this eve too,