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    Thread: Modifying o2a/j Clutch fork for high RPM shifting...

    1. Member MKII16v's Avatar
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      12-13-2009 12:28 AM #26
      I bent a stock one so far it was touching the pressure plate at idle with only a Sachs power pressure plate. I have been running the Flipside unit for 2 years now and it handles the Clutchnet Red pressure plate great. At $70, its a bargain.

    2. Geriatric Member need_a_VR6's Avatar
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      12-13-2009 07:42 AM #27
      Quote, originally posted by kkkustom »
      Wait up here.... is this one of the root causes of the dreaded 02J anything past 4000 rpm grinds like a mofo problem??
      I noticed that when I got my SPEC S3 clutch I actually grinded MORE between shifts. Even now with my rebuilt shift hubs i still grind a bit. However my 1 to 2 shift is nice, thanks to big tooth 02A shift hub and syncros!
      I too have a left over o2J case, another one of those bad boys in your hand and a TIG welder... I might have to give it a shot!

      The clutch fork won't help at all unless yours is bent. Other then full 02a big tooth syncros, etc try *good* gear oil. I've had good luck with Torco.
      -Paul
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    3. 12-13-2009 03:48 PM #28
      listen to paul...he knows his ****
      Brandon A.
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      12-14-2009 01:29 AM #29
      Quote, originally posted by need_a_VR6 »
      I've had good luck with Torco.

      Have you used RTF or MTF?
      http://www.torco-oil.com/produ...ssion

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      12-14-2009 08:03 PM #30
      i really wish i swapped in o2a sychros while i had it apart swapping r&ps! of course i didnt remember at the time

    6. Forum Sponsor pete@integrated's Avatar
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      12-15-2009 05:40 AM #31
      I looked at machining them. There isn't any room in the bellhousing to increase the cross section where the critical stresses are found, and it would need to be machined in at least 3 or 4 different setups. The worst part is since most steels have roughly the same youngs modulus, you can easily stop them from eventually breaking- use 4140 or 4340- but to make them stiffer so you get all the throw out of the PP, isn't very easy. All you can really do is harden up the steel somewhat which is why Q was quenching.
      I think a machined part could be made to be stiffer then stock, especially if the transmission case was ground down to give a bit more room for install, but when i looked at it, it wasn't cost effective.
      You certainly don't want to make one out of aluminum regardless of the tensile strength of whatever alloy.
      FWIW, these do flex significantly in regular usage even when they aren't "bent"... Like a bit over .060" with a single diaphragm "race" style pressure plate. It may be what causes a lot of these transmissions to drag clutch disks at high rpm. You can't shift a transmission that still has load on it.

      PS: Found oooooollld pictures.



      I don't think I ever got past "seeing what i could fit in the bellhousing" so that certainly isn't a production ready design by any means. I already see some corners that would need a radius or they would be impossible.


      Modified by pete@integrated at 2:52 AM 12-15-2009
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    7. Geriatric Member need_a_VR6's Avatar
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      12-15-2009 09:30 AM #32
      Quote, originally posted by TeemuM »
      Have you used RTF or MTF?
      http://www.torco-oil.com/produ...ssion

      RTF is in there now, works a lot better then Redline.
      -Paul
      1995 GTI VR6 - Retired - 12.90@106 R32 power - 12.833@106 12v power
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    8. 12-15-2009 09:52 AM #33
      Quote, originally posted by Quintin@USRT »
      it can be done with mild...using the right recipe http://lametalsmiths.org/news/robb_gunter.htm
      Standard quenching with water though may only just barely harden the surface.

      Recipe or no recipe, the carbon level are so low, I doubt you will be seeing any change in hardness at all. According to wikipedia, quenching carbon steel works for steels containing at least 0.4% carbon, and mild steel has between 0.05 and 0.15% ... Anyways, sorry for bustin' balls, don't mean to nitpick.
      edit : Okay, I read the article, and they pitch their theory well, but it just goes against everything I have ever learned about metallurgy.


      Modified by Agtronic at 9:55 AM 12-15-2009
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    9. Member Eganx's Avatar
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      12-15-2009 11:31 AM #34
      Quote, originally posted by Quintin@USRT »
      Standard quenching with water though may only just barely harden the surface.

      when I harden anything I quench in used motor oil. the way I understand it, the metal will actually draw carbon out of the oil to harden the surface of the metal. it has worked quite well for me for a while.

    10. 12-15-2009 11:40 AM #35
      How are you guys testing for results in hardening?
      Markku Kivinen | Agtronic Motorsport

    11. Member GTijoejoe's Avatar
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      12-15-2009 08:58 PM #36
      Quote, originally posted by Eganx »
      when I harden anything I quench in used motor oil. the way I understand it, the metal will actually draw carbon out of the oil to harden the surface of the metal. it has worked quite well for me for a while.

      Than you understand correctly....
      The key feature to harndening is depth, normally this type of 'I did it myself' hardening is very shallow, unless you know exactly what you are doing, and what temp is needed, and duration etc etc...
      2.0T+034efi+meth = 300+whp = Part out PM me for anything

    12. Forum Sponsor pete@integrated's Avatar
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      12-15-2009 09:03 PM #37
      I'd say yes and no- You can take a piece of welding rod and quench it a couple of times and it's so brittle it won't bend 1/10th of what it did before you hardened it. But, it's also a small cross section so you don't need a lot of depth to do anything.
      This particular part isn't exactly thick either though.
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    13. Member Eganx's Avatar
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      12-16-2009 07:06 PM #38
      right, I usually call it case hardening. If I ever need to harden something this has worked for me, but then again I have never had to harden anything really thick, or under enough stress to need anything more than a good .020-.030 hardened shell/case

    14. Member GTijoejoe's Avatar
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      12-16-2009 08:08 PM #39
      Quote, originally posted by pete@integrated »
      This particular part isn't exactly thick either though.

      I'd agree, I was speaking in generalities
      2.0T+034efi+meth = 300+whp = Part out PM me for anything

    15. 08-06-2012 12:42 PM #40
      Hi guys
      just wanted to show you how we made our reinforced fork in tuning garage called Herc tuning in Cacak Serbia from the guy who makes all the champion geraboxes here from the first class steel from Kosovo that is normaly exported to Italy.
      He did my 02J gearbox to 6 speed one and incorporated my Quaife LSD into it.
      Ratios are:
      1. 3.7
      2. 2.2
      3. 1.6
      4. 1.25
      5. 1.04
      6. 0.87
      Final Drive 3.64
      First two remained OE for the comfortable daily driving without killing the clutch and the rest is killing machine.
      It is calculated for shifting on 7200rpm and drops only to 6000rpom where I do have 375Nm - meaning pulls like hell all the way.
      Than we added reinforced fork that I have seen at inaeng.
      Ours looks even better I think.
      Still no billet pinion brace but to come.
      I'll share my results than.
      Here is the link to the pics:
      http://s537.photobucket.com/albums/f...box/?start=all

    16. Forum Sponsor Quintin@USRT's Avatar
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      09-20-2012 10:52 PM #41
      Quote Originally Posted by davojuri View Post
      Hi guys
      just wanted to show you how we made our reinforced fork in tuning garage called Herc tuning in Cacak Serbia from the guy who makes all the champion geraboxes here from the first class steel from Kosovo that is normaly exported to Italy.
      He did my 02J gearbox to 6 speed one and incorporated my Quaife LSD into it.
      Ratios are:
      1. 3.7
      2. 2.2
      3. 1.6
      4. 1.25
      5. 1.04
      6. 0.87
      Final Drive 3.64
      First two remained OE for the comfortable daily driving without killing the clutch and the rest is killing machine.
      It is calculated for shifting on 7200rpm and drops only to 6000rpom where I do have 375Nm - meaning pulls like hell all the way.
      Than we added reinforced fork that I have seen at inaeng.
      Ours looks even better I think.
      Still no billet pinion brace but to come.
      I'll share my results than.
      Here is the link to the pics:
      http://s537.photobucket.com/albums/f...box/?start=all
      I like

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