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    Thread: You might be an alcoholic when...

    1. Member 01gtiaww's Avatar
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      04-07-2010 07:57 AM #26
      How will you be adjusting timing once ur water/meth is installed? I'm used to my mk4 1.8t and I know you have to advance timing via lemmiwinks or unisettings but I don't know if it's still done that way for the mk5.


      Modified by 01gtiaww at 7:59 AM 4-7-2010

    2. 04-08-2010 09:37 AM #27
      Quote, originally posted by ViRtUaLheretic »
      After talking with Justin and Phil @ BSH they convinced me to just run off of the stock WW fluid tank.

      I apologize, perhaps this is a stupid question but...
      So are you using the stock washer fluid tank and stock placement - and sacrificing having windshield squirts? Or are you using an additional washer tank?

    3. Member ViRtUaLheretic's Avatar
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      04-08-2010 02:49 PM #28
      Incase I revert back to stock I want to have the option to put the stock TB pipe back on so untill then I will just wait for the BSH TB pipe.
      I tapped the stock WW tank. Windshield Washer fluid is basically w/m with some added dye for color and some cleaning elements so the w/m mixture does a decent enough job for cleaning the windshield.
      To take advantage of the w/m I am going to run the APR 100 octane program.
      There is no advanced custome user tuning for the TSI motor as Revo was the only company that had this option on the MKV FSI and they didnt include this functionality in the TSI tune.
      :APR -stage 2 :BSH -Intake,Mounts,RSB,TB Pipe :Whiteline -A.L.K. :Porsche 17Z BBK
      :Devils Own -DVC-30+Direct Port Injection :BC Racing -BR Coilovers :Flik-FTD :OSIR
      :Eurojet -Ceramic Coated TBE :DEFI :Unibrace :Tyrolsport :Bildon :Hawk :034
      TSI FAQ: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4042736

    4. 04-08-2010 02:53 PM #29
      heres a link of the install http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4722344 [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

    5. Member Slayer's Avatar
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      04-08-2010 03:01 PM #30
      Quote, originally posted by ViRtUaLheretic »
      Incase I revert back to stock I want to have the option to put the stock TB pipe back on so untill then I will just wait for the BSH TB pipe.

      just pop a hole in the stock one. you can always epoxy the hole, or put a plug in it later
      Check out my Garage build thread 2008.5 GTI 2.0 TSI 6MT / APR K04 V3.1, APR IC, CTS 3" turbo back, Carbonio full intake, GFB DV+, BSH TB pipe, SB Stg2 Endurance clutch, BSH mounts, DG Shortshifter, FFM bracket bushings, Forge big knob, Koni coils, Coolingmist CMGS Meth injection, USRT spacer (DO3 & Snow 100 nozzles), 19" Miro stp3's, Centric rotors, Stoptech pads and TyrolSport bushings

    6. Member
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      04-08-2010 04:10 PM #31
      Quote, originally posted by ViRtUaLheretic »
      This was a must as I am taking my car in for the carfree 30k mile maintenance in 2 days. [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

      I'm glad to see I'm not the only one approaching 30K after owning the car for 1 year. I got 26K + miles on stage 2 and haven't had an issue yet. Please post pics of your install!!!!
      '09 GTI TSI 11.53@121.18
      '12 TT-RS TBD!

    7. Member ViRtUaLheretic's Avatar
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      07-08-2010 11:00 AM #32
      updated the thread with the new BSH TB Pipe I just got in.
      w/m kit will be installed this weekend!

      P.S. the TB Pipe also doubles as a Vuvuzela, my roommates hated it
      :APR -stage 2 :BSH -Intake,Mounts,RSB,TB Pipe :Whiteline -A.L.K. :Porsche 17Z BBK
      :Devils Own -DVC-30+Direct Port Injection :BC Racing -BR Coilovers :Flik-FTD :OSIR
      :Eurojet -Ceramic Coated TBE :DEFI :Unibrace :Tyrolsport :Bildon :Hawk :034
      TSI FAQ: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4042736

    8. Member
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      07-08-2010 11:26 AM #33
      Quote Originally Posted by ViRtUaLheretic View Post
      updated the thread with the new BSH TB Pipe I just got in.
      w/m kit will be installed this weekend!

      P.S. the TB Pipe also doubles as a Vuvuzela, my roommates hated it
      Does the coupler hose attach the pipe to the intercooler or the throttle body? I have mine on order so any tips you have during your install, post em up

    9. Member ViRtUaLheretic's Avatar
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      07-08-2010 02:18 PM #34
      good question, but I dont know the answer lol
      I'll be hooking it all up this weekend and trust me there will be plenty of pix
      :APR -stage 2 :BSH -Intake,Mounts,RSB,TB Pipe :Whiteline -A.L.K. :Porsche 17Z BBK
      :Devils Own -DVC-30+Direct Port Injection :BC Racing -BR Coilovers :Flik-FTD :OSIR
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      TSI FAQ: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4042736

    10. 07-08-2010 11:18 PM #35
      You might be an alcoholic when in college you naively name an email address after the practice of drinking Pabst Blue Ribbon instead of having sexual contact (thus being safe)

    11. Member ViRtUaLheretic's Avatar
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      07-12-2010 01:39 PM #36
      pic from under car looking at TB pipe:



      stock TB mounting location:


      Here you can see the stock TB pipe noisepipe & MAP sensor:


      custom bracket:


      horn relocation bracket:


      There was some residual oil in the stock TB pipe/coupler:


      removing the stock TB pipe with a T25 or T30 torx (can't remember the size):


      Removing the noisepiping makes the whole process a LOT easier:




      Stock TB Pipe coupler is really odd shaped:


      Stock pipe vs BSH pipe:




      There was some oil on the MAP sensor:


      Mounting the BSH TB pipe I needed two 16mm sockets, as a nice little addition the nut that is provided is a lock nut so you dont have to use loctite:


      finished up the wiring:


      aded the orange wire to the fuse panel in the engine bay:


      tied in the in line fuse:


      Then I took my car out for a test drive and managed to blow off the coupler on the bottom of the TB pipe, had to limp my car into the next exit into a Little Casers Pizza to fix it:

      :APR -stage 2 :BSH -Intake,Mounts,RSB,TB Pipe :Whiteline -A.L.K. :Porsche 17Z BBK
      :Devils Own -DVC-30+Direct Port Injection :BC Racing -BR Coilovers :Flik-FTD :OSIR
      :Eurojet -Ceramic Coated TBE :DEFI :Unibrace :Tyrolsport :Bildon :Hawk :034
      TSI FAQ: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4042736

    12. Member ViRtUaLheretic's Avatar
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      07-12-2010 01:40 PM #37
      And here are my notes on the installation of the BSH TB Pipe:

      I just want to start off and say that the install of the BSH TB pipe wsa really easy and I completed the install without any instructions or guides or anything.
      Sadly I can't comment on how much time it took me to complete the install as I stopped several times to do other things and I took lots of pictures during the install. Justin@BSH said that he can complete the install in under an hour and I can believe that once you know what yo uare doing.

      Here are my finidings that can make installing your TB pipe much easier:
      1)put the car up on ramps
      2) remove bellypan
      3) remove lower TB pipe coupler
      4) remove the noisepipe (see my pictures for the location where I chose to remove it from)**You dont actually have to remove this pipe but it makes the install a LOT easier
      5) Prepare your BSH TB Pipe **If you are using a w/m kit decide on where you are going to mount your nozzle. I chose to do the location after the MAP sensor, closest to the engine. First you should screw your nozzle into the supplied L bracket, once you have those piece together then screw that into the TB pipe (use a little bit of loctite) once that is screwed in then screw in the provided fitting. After that install the other w/m blockoff port (use loctite), and if so desired install the noisepipe blockoff
      6) Unbolt the lower TB pipe screw using a t25 or t30 (forgot what size it was)
      7) This can get tricky as the stock hose clamps have barbs that keep them secured onto the couplers but now you need to remove the upper hose clamp for the TB pipe. Onec you have the hose clamp loosened you can stick a flathead screwdriver inbetween the clamp and the coupler and pry it so the barbs pop out of the coupler.
      8) Remove the MAP sensor connector from the MAP sensor in the TB pipe before removing the TB pipe
      9) Again this can be a bit tricky but now you need to pry the coupler off of the TB pipe.
      10) once you have done this you can twist and contort the TB pipe and remove it by pulling it down.
      11) Once you hvae removed the TB pipe compare the two pipes to see how you will ned the couplers lined up for a proper fitment
      12) remove the MAP sensor from the stock pipe and install it to the BSH pipe
      13) Remember the MAP sensor plug that you removed earlier? I had to free up some extra room as the connector wouldnt quite reach the new MAP sensor location. Trace the connector back to the loom and you will notice a plastic clamp that holds it back, release the cord from this and it will buy you an additional 3-4" of cable.
      14) put the bsh tb pipe coupler on the intake manifold and loosely bolt it up
      15) loosely place thebsh tb pipe approx where it needs to go, try to wiggle it into the upper tb pipe coupler if you can (just to hold it in place, we will align it properly later)
      16) insert the bolt that secures the TB pipe to the motor. As per my picture you will need two 16mm sockets or a 16mm socket and a 16mm wrench to install. **NOTE do not tighten this bolt down till you have BOTH couplers secured
      17) install the map sensor connector
      18) run your w/m line to your nozzle
      19) install the lower BSH tb pipe coupler semi-firmly
      20) install the upper bsh tb pipe coupler
      21) double check that both couplers are on secure, if you are satisfied then tighten these down now
      22) secure the noisepipe back to the TB pipe
      23) secure the noisepipe into place
      24) recheck all of your couplers and make sure you have the hose claps on evenly, tightenend down, and are secure.
      25) tighten down the bolt securing the TB pipe
      26) fire up your car and check for leaks in your TB pipe and/or w/m lines
      27) do NOT install the bellypan just yet, do some test runs first and makes sure the couplers can withstand boost before installing the bellypan. You dont want to go for a test drive and blow off a coupler only to find yourself 20 miles from home and no way to fix it. Don't worryI have ran without my bellypan for 6 months, no problem.
      Last edited by ViRtUaLheretic; 07-12-2010 at 02:20 PM.
      :APR -stage 2 :BSH -Intake,Mounts,RSB,TB Pipe :Whiteline -A.L.K. :Porsche 17Z BBK
      :Devils Own -DVC-30+Direct Port Injection :BC Racing -BR Coilovers :Flik-FTD :OSIR
      :Eurojet -Ceramic Coated TBE :DEFI :Unibrace :Tyrolsport :Bildon :Hawk :034
      TSI FAQ: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4042736

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      07-13-2010 06:20 PM #38
      Good job. So it comes with 2 couplers then? The more I read about w/m the more I think it's going to be in my plans.

      I noticed there's 2 ports, 1 near the noisepipe port which is used for the w/m nozzle. Then there's the MAP sensor port, and one more closer to the bend of the pipe. What is that port for?

      Did you plug your noise pipe? Did you notice an increase in turbo spool time and reduction in noise in the cabin? I'm thinking about just leaving the noise pipe off, and we'll see what BSH offers for the DV relocation kit.

      So, you are running the APR100 tune, but you're filled with 93 octane. So how does the engine run when you're not in boost and just puttering around town? Is the ECU just adjusting timing based on the fuel it's seeing? And it can adjust fast enough to prevent pre-ignition? Maybe I'll ask in a BSH thread on w/m.

    14. Member ViRtUaLheretic's Avatar
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      07-14-2010 01:14 AM #39
      Quote Originally Posted by mylesw42 View Post
      Good job. So it comes with 2 couplers then? The more I read about w/m the more I think it's going to be in my plans.
      Thanks, I tried my best to cover just about everything to simplify the install for other people.
      The BSH TB Pipe reuses the lower TB pipe coupler as it has a specialty fitting on the IC side of the pipe.

      Quote Originally Posted by mylesw42 View Post
      I noticed there's 2 ports, 1 near the noisepipe port which is used for the w/m nozzle. Then there's the MAP sensor port, and one more closer to the bend of the pipe. What is that port for?
      There are TWO w/m ports, the noise pipe Y sections, and the MAP plugin port. THe w/m ports are at the far two ends, the noisepipe port is the big Y part branching off the pipe, and th MAP plugin is the squareish port with the screw holes.

      Quote Originally Posted by mylesw42 View Post
      Did you plug your noise pipe? Did you notice an increase in turbo spool time and reduction in noise in the cabin? I'm thinking about just leaving the noise pipe off, and we'll see what BSH offers for the DV relocation kit.
      I did not plug the noise pipe with the included screw, I thought about it, but I plan on adding the BSH DV relocation whenever that is released and I dont want to have to worry about trying to remove the blockoff in order to use teh DV relocation. From what I have gathered people see a slight increase in throttle response with the noisepipe blocked off/removed.


      Quote Originally Posted by mylesw42 View Post
      So, you are running the APR100 tune, but you're filled with 93 octane. So how does the engine run when you're not in boost and just puttering around town? Is the ECU just adjusting timing based on the fuel it's seeing? And it can adjust fast enough to prevent pre-ignition? Maybe I'll ask in a BSH thread on w/m.
      Correct I am currently running 93 octane gas in the tank and runnign the 100 octane program.
      The engine runs just fine while I am idling aroudn town and barely under throttle.
      Have you ever watched your boost gauge while you give your car a slightl bit of throttle? Our cars have a small turbo and they build boost suuuper fast therefore whenever you decide to accelerate you can almsot guarantee that you are in boost.
      :APR -stage 2 :BSH -Intake,Mounts,RSB,TB Pipe :Whiteline -A.L.K. :Porsche 17Z BBK
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    15. Member Aguilar's Avatar
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      07-14-2010 05:22 AM #40
      My setup was almost identical to yours. I tapped the w/w tank in the same spot, and made a custom bracket for the pump as well. The one problem I had with this set-up, is that the tank would not empty completely, and I would never get the low-fluid warning before it stopped spraying. Might have been because these pumps are push-type, and once it stopped getting fluid by gravity (at the highest level where the hose bends), it would stop pumping.

      I would also run the w/w reservoir dry in less than 1/2 a tank of fuel, starting to spray at 5 psi and going full at 10, so I couldn't really run 100 oct file all the time because fear that I would stop spraying.

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      07-14-2010 05:37 PM #41
      Quote Originally Posted by ViRtUaLheretic View Post
      Correct I am currently running 93 octane gas in the tank and runnign the 100 octane program.
      The engine runs just fine while I am idling aroudn town and barely under throttle.
      Have you ever watched your boost gauge while you give your car a slightl bit of throttle? Our cars have a small turbo and they build boost suuuper fast therefore whenever you decide to accelerate you can almsot guarantee that you are in boost.
      Hmmm, interesting. I re-read the ultimate water meth thread on golfmkv, and my question about engine timing and knock was answered on the first page, lol.

      Under normal acceleration, I am usually just moving out of vacuum, but not in to boost. The only time I really get in to boost is under hard acceleration, and yes it does come on quick.

      Have you drove around in your 93 tune with the w/m spraying? How do you find that for performance gains, do you notice it like the 100 tune, or is it mostly preventing "doggishness" associated with heat soak?

    17. Member ViRtUaLheretic's Avatar
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      07-14-2010 05:48 PM #42
      Quote Originally Posted by Aguilar View Post
      My setup was almost identical to yours. I tapped the w/w tank in the same spot, and made a custom bracket for the pump as well. The one problem I had with this set-up, is that the tank would not empty completely, and I would never get the low-fluid warning before it stopped spraying. Might have been because these pumps are push-type, and once it stopped getting fluid by gravity (at the highest level where the hose bends), it would stop pumping.

      I would also run the w/w reservoir dry in less than 1/2 a tank of fuel, starting to spray at 5 psi and going full at 10, so I couldn't really run 100 oct file all the time because fear that I would stop spraying.
      I had my low level sensor come on after the first 4 days, and about 3/4 a tank, but I took my car out and beat on her for most of Saturday night and Sunday night.
      I also noticed myself pushing the fun pedal harder just to feel the difference and monitor the lights on the controller to my boots gauge.
      With some more conservative driving the w/m would last longer.
      i also need to fine tune when the start and full spray starts. currently I have it set to start at 3, and full at 10. Might turn it up abit, but first I will need to run some logs with vag-com.

      Quote Originally Posted by mylesw42 View Post
      Hmmm, interesting. I re-read the ultimate water meth thread on golfmkv, and my question about engine timing and knock was answered on the first page, lol.

      Under normal acceleration, I am usually just moving out of vacuum, but not in to boost. The only time I really get in to boost is under hard acceleration, and yes it does come on quick.

      Have you drove around in your 93 tune with the w/m spraying? How do you find that for performance gains, do you notice it like the 100 tune, or is it mostly preventing "doggishness" associated with heat soak?
      I can start to build boost under medium acceleration but that is only 2-5ish psi or so.
      I have not yet tried out the 93 octane tune with the w/m urned on.
      if I was to go back to the 93 octane tune I would prolly back off the controller a bitto conserve the w/m.
      Probably switch to setting of start 6 full 13 or so or something of the sort.



      On a side note all of te tweaking of the controller shouldnt make a huuuge difference as our tiny snails build boost so goddamn fast.
      :APR -stage 2 :BSH -Intake,Mounts,RSB,TB Pipe :Whiteline -A.L.K. :Porsche 17Z BBK
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      07-14-2010 05:56 PM #43
      yea my tuner was saying the around the same.. low spray at 7 psi full at 12. so 2 n 3rd gear will feel like boostin the same lmao.
      09 GTI 6MT || APR Full ECU (Stage 2) || VF Cold Air Intake ||Forge Spacer || Audi S3 Intercooler || A&L 3" Catless Downpipe to Resonator No Muffler || No Back Seats ||JDM Boost Gauge || 8K HID Fogs || R32 Rear Bumper Conversion
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    19. Member ViRtUaLheretic's Avatar
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      07-14-2010 06:21 PM #44
      Quote Originally Posted by fastgti69 View Post
      yea my tuner was saying the around the same.. low spray at 7 psi full at 12. so 2 n 3rd gear will feel like boostin the same lmao.
      Who was your tuner if you dont mind me asking?
      7 psi seems a bit high to start spraying if running a 100 octane program. Were you running a 100 octane program? Everybody i have seen has started spray at 3 or 4 psi if running a race gas program.
      :APR -stage 2 :BSH -Intake,Mounts,RSB,TB Pipe :Whiteline -A.L.K. :Porsche 17Z BBK
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      07-29-2010 11:23 AM #45
      Installed my BSH TSI TB pipe last night. blocked off the w/m ports, and did the same with the noise pipe, but I did not have a hex key large enough to tighten it down, so I used locktite and didn't get close to the O-ring sealing. Anyway it's not budging and no leaks from what I can see. Seems like my install fitment must be a bit off, because the front mount point for the noise pipe doesn't align anymore, but that's fine it's not moving. Everything is solid.

      I was thoroughly impressed on my test drives. Noticeable increase in boost spool time. Overall acceleration felt smoother and there is less noise in the cabin.

      What size of hex key do I need to buy for that piece that plugs the noise pipe? I don't see any BSH instructions online yet.

    21. Member Slayer's Avatar
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      07-29-2010 01:51 PM #46
      find a bolt with a head that fits in there, then thread two nuts together to lock them on that bolt. Then use the head of the bolt as the allen for the plug and tighten using a ratchet or wrench on those two nuts you locked together
      Check out my Garage build thread 2008.5 GTI 2.0 TSI 6MT / APR K04 V3.1, APR IC, CTS 3" turbo back, Carbonio full intake, GFB DV+, BSH TB pipe, SB Stg2 Endurance clutch, BSH mounts, DG Shortshifter, FFM bracket bushings, Forge big knob, Koni coils, Coolingmist CMGS Meth injection, USRT spacer (DO3 & Snow 100 nozzles), 19" Miro stp3's, Centric rotors, Stoptech pads and TyrolSport bushings

    22. Member ViRtUaLheretic's Avatar
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      07-29-2010 02:56 PM #47
      Perfect idea, thats what I had to do when installing my wheel studs.

      I know I did have the correct socket to thread in that bolt as i did check for that but I decided not to thread that bolt in as I plan on buying the DV relocation as soon as that is released and I dont want to have to remove the TB pipe again and make more work for myself.

      Actually now that I think of it, I can probably just remove the noise pipe and get at the bolt hole without having to remove the whole TB pipe...
      :APR -stage 2 :BSH -Intake,Mounts,RSB,TB Pipe :Whiteline -A.L.K. :Porsche 17Z BBK
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      07-30-2010 11:09 AM #48
      Quote Originally Posted by Slayer View Post
      find a bolt with a head that fits in there, then thread two nuts together to lock them on that bolt. Then use the head of the bolt as the allen for the plug and tighten using a ratchet or wrench on those two nuts you locked together
      Great idea, in fact I did it last night except I used a solid 5/16th 2" coupler nut and a wrench. I think this was way easier than fiddling with multiple bolt/nut pieces. Anyway, I got my plug loose, cleaned up the caked on locktite and then secured it in firmly down to the O-ring. Much better install - now I'm happy.

      Actually now that I think of it, I can probably just remove the noise pipe and get at the bolt hole without having to remove the whole TB pipe...
      Absolutely you can do this, I just did. I suggest you try it out tonight, it will take you 15 minutes and you're going to notice a difference. You don't have to remove the noisepipe either, just the couple of mounting bolts (front and one beside the washer fluid), and then you can swing it out of the way to have enough room to work.
      Last edited by mylesw42; 07-30-2010 at 12:56 PM.

    24. Member ViRtUaLheretic's Avatar
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      2009 GTI
      07-30-2010 12:20 PM #49
      I'll add it to the list of things to do tomorrow.
      I need to turn down the w/m pump to 150psi, run some logs for my w/m, double check torque specs on RSB, then ill throw in the noisepipe plug, and then oil change.
      :APR -stage 2 :BSH -Intake,Mounts,RSB,TB Pipe :Whiteline -A.L.K. :Porsche 17Z BBK
      :Devils Own -DVC-30+Direct Port Injection :BC Racing -BR Coilovers :Flik-FTD :OSIR
      :Eurojet -Ceramic Coated TBE :DEFI :Unibrace :Tyrolsport :Bildon :Hawk :034
      TSI FAQ: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4042736

    25. Member
      Join Date
      Apr 26th, 2009
      Location
      SoCal 818
      Posts
      752
      Vehicles
      09 Gti
      08-03-2010 01:33 PM #50
      Quote Originally Posted by ViRtUaLheretic View Post
      Who was your tuner if you dont mind me asking?
      7 psi seems a bit high to start spraying if running a 100 octane program. Were you running a 100 octane program? Everybody i have seen has started spray at 3 or 4 psi if running a race gas program.
      sorry bro i didnt see this reply lol. he said 7 psi so it will be much safer to run, cause at 3-4 psi i could just be cruising and it will be spraying. he said it can do engine damage if too much goes thru without being burned and fills up the spark plugs with water and ruins the motor lol. so the 7psi was a bit overkill but i get he was setting it up for saftey. i'm just gonna istall all this when i get the BT set up. i have an AEM meth kit just sitting here...

      here are my tuners. for ppl in the west side. www.gintani.com or the tuner's site that works with gintanti (ppl who will be installing my kit.) www.oetuning.com tuner from austrailia really knows his $hit

      the tuner tuned an a4 fsi and got 240whp and 250 wtq bone stock on stock turbo! only a dyno tune on a DYNOMAT. which reads very very low at their shop(conservative dyno). his 240whp is ~ 270 whp and 280 on dynojet!

      i will try to find a video and dyno slip to prove i know its somewhere on his blog.

      and we raced, it was like he was k04...
      Last edited by fastgti69; 08-03-2010 at 01:41 PM.
      09 GTI 6MT || APR Full ECU (Stage 2) || VF Cold Air Intake ||Forge Spacer || Audi S3 Intercooler || A&L 3" Catless Downpipe to Resonator No Muffler || No Back Seats ||JDM Boost Gauge || 8K HID Fogs || R32 Rear Bumper Conversion
      VMR V710 wheels in 19x8.5 wrapped up in Toyo T1-R tires (225/35-19)
      My Project: Putting in custom GT35. Pursuing a career in this field.

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