You might be an alcoholic when...

[ViRtUaLheretic]

pic from under car looking at TB pipe:



stock TB mounting location:


Here you can see the stock TB pipe noisepipe & MAP sensor:


custom bracket:


horn relocation bracket:


There was some residual oil in the stock TB pipe/coupler:


removing the stock TB pipe with a T25 or T30 torx (can't remember the size):


Removing the noisepiping makes the whole process a LOT easier:




Stock TB Pipe coupler is really odd shaped:


Stock pipe vs BSH pipe:




There was some oil on the MAP sensor:


Mounting the BSH TB pipe I needed two 16mm sockets, as a nice little addition the nut that is provided is a lock nut so you dont have to use loctite:


finished up the wiring:


aded the orange wire to the fuse panel in the engine bay:


tied in the in line fuse:


Then I took my car out for a test drive and managed to blow off the coupler on the bottom of the TB pipe, had to limp my car into the next exit into a Little Casers Pizza to fix it:

[ViRtUaLheretic]

And here are my notes on the installation of the BSH TB Pipe:

I just want to start off and say that the install of the BSH TB pipe wsa really easy and I completed the install without any instructions or guides or anything.
Sadly I can't comment on how much time it took me to complete the install as I stopped several times to do other things and I took lots of pictures during the install. Justin@BSH said that he can complete the install in under an hour and I can believe that once you know what yo uare doing.

Here are my finidings that can make installing your TB pipe much easier:
1)put the car up on ramps
2) remove bellypan
3) remove lower TB pipe coupler
4) remove the noisepipe (see my pictures for the location where I chose to remove it from)**You dont actually have to remove this pipe but it makes the install a LOT easier
5) Prepare your BSH TB Pipe **If you are using a w/m kit decide on where you are going to mount your nozzle. I chose to do the location after the MAP sensor, closest to the engine. First you should screw your nozzle into the supplied L bracket, once you have those piece together then screw that into the TB pipe (use a little bit of loctite) once that is screwed in then screw in the provided fitting. After that install the other w/m blockoff port (use loctite), and if so desired install the noisepipe blockoff
6) Unbolt the lower TB pipe screw using a t25 or t30 (forgot what size it was)
7) This can get tricky as the stock hose clamps have barbs that keep them secured onto the couplers but now you need to remove the upper hose clamp for the TB pipe. Onec you have the hose clamp loosened you can stick a flathead screwdriver inbetween the clamp and the coupler and pry it so the barbs pop out of the coupler.
8) Remove the MAP sensor connector from the MAP sensor in the TB pipe before removing the TB pipe
9) Again this can be a bit tricky but now you need to pry the coupler off of the TB pipe.
10) once you have done this you can twist and contort the TB pipe and remove it by pulling it down.
11) Once you hvae removed the TB pipe compare the two pipes to see how you will ned the couplers lined up for a proper fitment
12) remove the MAP sensor from the stock pipe and install it to the BSH pipe
13) Remember the MAP sensor plug that you removed earlier? I had to free up some extra room as the connector wouldnt quite reach the new MAP sensor location. Trace the connector back to the loom and you will notice a plastic clamp that holds it back, release the cord from this and it will buy you an additional 3-4" of cable.
14) put the bsh tb pipe coupler on the intake manifold and loosely bolt it up
15) loosely place thebsh tb pipe approx where it needs to go, try to wiggle it into the upper tb pipe coupler if you can (just to hold it in place, we will align it properly later)
16) insert the bolt that secures the TB pipe to the motor. As per my picture you will need two 16mm sockets or a 16mm socket and a 16mm wrench to install. **NOTE do not tighten this bolt down till you have BOTH couplers secured
17) install the map sensor connector
18) run your w/m line to your nozzle
19) install the lower BSH tb pipe coupler semi-firmly
20) install the upper bsh tb pipe coupler
21) double check that both couplers are on secure, if you are satisfied then tighten these down now
22) secure the noisepipe back to the TB pipe
23) secure the noisepipe into place
24) recheck all of your couplers and make sure you have the hose claps on evenly, tightenend down, and are secure.
25) tighten down the bolt securing the TB pipe
26) fire up your car and check for leaks in your TB pipe and/or w/m lines
27) do NOT install the bellypan just yet, do some test runs first and makes sure the couplers can withstand boost before installing the bellypan. You dont want to go for a test drive and blow off a coupler only to find yourself 20 miles from home and no way to fix it. Don't worryI have ran without my bellypan for 6 months, no problem.

[mylesw42]

Good job. So it comes with 2 couplers then? The more I read about w/m the more I think it's going to be in my plans.

I noticed there's 2 ports, 1 near the noisepipe port which is used for the w/m nozzle. Then there's the MAP sensor port, and one more closer to the bend of the pipe. What is that port for?

Did you plug your noise pipe? Did you notice an increase in turbo spool time and reduction in noise in the cabin? I'm thinking about just leaving the noise pipe off, and we'll see what BSH offers for the DV relocation kit.

So, you are running the APR100 tune, but you're filled with 93 octane. So how does the engine run when you're not in boost and just puttering around town? Is the ECU just adjusting timing based on the fuel it's seeing? And it can adjust fast enough to prevent pre-ignition? Maybe I'll ask in a BSH thread on w/m.

[ViRtUaLheretic]

Good job. So it comes with 2 couplers then? The more I read about w/m the more I think it's going to be in my plans.

Thanks, I tried my best to cover just about everything to simplify the install for other people.
The BSH TB Pipe reuses the lower TB pipe coupler as it has a specialty fitting on the IC side of the pipe.

I noticed there's 2 ports, 1 near the noisepipe port which is used for the w/m nozzle. Then there's the MAP sensor port, and one more closer to the bend of the pipe. What is that port for?

There are TWO w/m ports, the noise pipe Y sections, and the MAP plugin port. THe w/m ports are at the far two ends, the noisepipe port is the big Y part branching off the pipe, and th MAP plugin is the squareish port with the screw holes.

Did you plug your noise pipe? Did you notice an increase in turbo spool time and reduction in noise in the cabin? I'm thinking about just leaving the noise pipe off, and we'll see what BSH offers for the DV relocation kit.

I did not plug the noise pipe with the included screw, I thought about it, but I plan on adding the BSH DV relocation whenever that is released and I dont want to have to worry about trying to remove the blockoff in order to use teh DV relocation. From what I have gathered people see a slight increase in throttle response with the noisepipe blocked off/removed.

So, you are running the APR100 tune, but you're filled with 93 octane. So how does the engine run when you're not in boost and just puttering around town? Is the ECU just adjusting timing based on the fuel it's seeing? And it can adjust fast enough to prevent pre-ignition? Maybe I'll ask in a BSH thread on w/m.

Correct I am currently running 93 octane gas in the tank and runnign the 100 octane program.
The engine runs just fine while I am idling aroudn town and barely under throttle.
Have you ever watched your boost gauge while you give your car a slightl bit of throttle? Our cars have a small turbo and they build boost suuuper fast therefore whenever you decide to accelerate you can almsot guarantee that you are in boost.

[Aguilar]

My setup was almost identical to yours. I tapped the w/w tank in the same spot, and made a custom bracket for the pump as well. The one problem I had with this set-up, is that the tank would not empty completely, and I would never get the low-fluid warning before it stopped spraying. Might have been because these pumps are push-type, and once it stopped getting fluid by gravity (at the highest level where the hose bends), it would stop pumping.

I would also run the w/w reservoir dry in less than 1/2 a tank of fuel, starting to spray at 5 psi and going full at 10, so I couldn't really run 100 oct file all the time because fear that I would stop spraying.

[mylesw42]

Correct I am currently running 93 octane gas in the tank and runnign the 100 octane program.
The engine runs just fine while I am idling aroudn town and barely under throttle.
Have you ever watched your boost gauge while you give your car a slightl bit of throttle? Our cars have a small turbo and they build boost suuuper fast therefore whenever you decide to accelerate you can almsot guarantee that you are in boost.

Hmmm, interesting. I re-read the ultimate water meth thread on golfmkv, and my question about engine timing and knock was answered on the first page, lol.

Under normal acceleration, I am usually just moving out of vacuum, but not in to boost. The only time I really get in to boost is under hard acceleration, and yes it does come on quick.

Have you drove around in your 93 tune with the w/m spraying? How do you find that for performance gains, do you notice it like the 100 tune, or is it mostly preventing "doggishness" associated with heat soak?

[ViRtUaLheretic]

My setup was almost identical to yours. I tapped the w/w tank in the same spot, and made a custom bracket for the pump as well. The one problem I had with this set-up, is that the tank would not empty completely, and I would never get the low-fluid warning before it stopped spraying. Might have been because these pumps are push-type, and once it stopped getting fluid by gravity (at the highest level where the hose bends), it would stop pumping.

I would also run the w/w reservoir dry in less than 1/2 a tank of fuel, starting to spray at 5 psi and going full at 10, so I couldn't really run 100 oct file all the time because fear that I would stop spraying.

I had my low level sensor come on after the first 4 days, and about 3/4 a tank, but I took my car out and beat on her for most of Saturday night and Sunday night.
I also noticed myself pushing the fun pedal harder just to feel the difference and monitor the lights on the controller to my boots gauge.
With some more conservative driving the w/m would last longer.
i also need to fine tune when the start and full spray starts. currently I have it set to start at 3, and full at 10. Might turn it up abit, but first I will need to run some logs with vag-com.

Hmmm, interesting. I re-read the ultimate water meth thread on golfmkv, and my question about engine timing and knock was answered on the first page, lol.

Under normal acceleration, I am usually just moving out of vacuum, but not in to boost. The only time I really get in to boost is under hard acceleration, and yes it does come on quick.

Have you drove around in your 93 tune with the w/m spraying? How do you find that for performance gains, do you notice it like the 100 tune, or is it mostly preventing "doggishness" associated with heat soak?

I can start to build boost under medium acceleration but that is only 2-5ish psi or so.
I have not yet tried out the 93 octane tune with the w/m urned on.
if I was to go back to the 93 octane tune I would prolly back off the controller a bitto conserve the w/m.
Probably switch to setting of start 6 full 13 or so or something of the sort.



On a side note all of te tweaking of the controller shouldnt make a huuuge difference as our tiny snails build boost so goddamn fast.

[fastgti69]

yea my tuner was saying the around the same.. low spray at 7 psi full at 12. so 2 n 3rd gear will feel like boostin the same lmao.

[ViRtUaLheretic]

yea my tuner was saying the around the same.. low spray at 7 psi full at 12. so 2 n 3rd gear will feel like boostin the same lmao.

Who was your tuner if you dont mind me asking?
7 psi seems a bit high to start spraying if running a 100 octane program. Were you running a 100 octane program? Everybody i have seen has started spray at 3 or 4 psi if running a race gas program.

[mylesw42]

Installed my BSH TSI TB pipe last night. blocked off the w/m ports, and did the same with the noise pipe, but I did not have a hex key large enough to tighten it down, so I used locktite and didn't get close to the O-ring sealing. Anyway it's not budging and no leaks from what I can see. Seems like my install fitment must be a bit off, because the front mount point for the noise pipe doesn't align anymore, but that's fine it's not moving. Everything is solid.

I was thoroughly impressed on my test drives. Noticeable increase in boost spool time. Overall acceleration felt smoother and there is less noise in the cabin.

What size of hex key do I need to buy for that piece that plugs the noise pipe? I don't see any BSH instructions online yet.

[Slayer]

find a bolt with a head that fits in there, then thread two nuts together to lock them on that bolt. Then use the head of the bolt as the allen for the plug and tighten using a ratchet or wrench on those two nuts you locked together

[ViRtUaLheretic]

Perfect idea, thats what I had to do when installing my wheel studs.

I know I did have the correct socket to thread in that bolt as i did check for that but I decided not to thread that bolt in as I plan on buying the DV relocation as soon as that is released and I dont want to have to remove the TB pipe again and make more work for myself.

Actually now that I think of it, I can probably just remove the noise pipe and get at the bolt hole without having to remove the whole TB pipe...

[mylesw42]

find a bolt with a head that fits in there, then thread two nuts together to lock them on that bolt. Then use the head of the bolt as the allen for the plug and tighten using a ratchet or wrench on those two nuts you locked together

Great idea, in fact I did it last night except I used a solid 5/16th 2" coupler nut and a wrench. I think this was way easier than fiddling with multiple bolt/nut pieces. Anyway, I got my plug loose, cleaned up the caked on locktite and then secured it in firmly down to the O-ring. Much better install - now I'm happy.

Actually now that I think of it, I can probably just remove the noise pipe and get at the bolt hole without having to remove the whole TB pipe...

Absolutely you can do this, I just did. I suggest you try it out tonight, it will take you 15 minutes and you're going to notice a difference. You don't have to remove the noisepipe either, just the couple of mounting bolts (front and one beside the washer fluid), and then you can swing it out of the way to have enough room to work.

[ViRtUaLheretic]

I'll add it to the list of things to do tomorrow.
I need to turn down the w/m pump to 150psi, run some logs for my w/m, double check torque specs on RSB, then ill throw in the noisepipe plug, and then oil change.

[fastgti69]

Who was your tuner if you dont mind me asking?
7 psi seems a bit high to start spraying if running a 100 octane program. Were you running a 100 octane program? Everybody i have seen has started spray at 3 or 4 psi if running a race gas program.

sorry bro i didnt see this reply lol. he said 7 psi so it will be much safer to run, cause at 3-4 psi i could just be cruising and it will be spraying. he said it can do engine damage if too much goes thru without being burned and fills up the spark plugs with water and ruins the motor lol. so the 7psi was a bit overkill but i get he was setting it up for saftey. i'm just gonna istall all this when i get the BT set up. i have an AEM meth kit just sitting here...

here are my tuners. for ppl in the west side. www.gintani.com or the tuner's site that works with gintanti (ppl who will be installing my kit.) www.oetuning.com tuner from austrailia really knows his $hit

the tuner tuned an a4 fsi and got 240whp and 250 wtq bone stock on stock turbo! only a dyno tune on a DYNOMAT. which reads very very low at their shop(conservative dyno). his 240whp is ~ 270 whp and 280 on dynojet!

i will try to find a video and dyno slip to prove i know its somewhere on his blog.

and we raced, it was like he was k04...

[ViRtUaLheretic]

Its official I'm hooked!
Just yesterday I had a new part show up at my house....
(got some other fun goodies over the last week too, OSIR CF hood, and TID DSG paddles but thats another story)
I just got a spare TSI Intake Manifold, can you say Direct Port Water Methanol Setup....

my inspiration:
http://www.golfmkv.com/forums/showthread.php?t=98645

I have been doing a lot of research on a direct port setup and I have been talking with LRF about his setup too...

[drppedfikse]

Very nice. I ordered a spare intake manifold for other reasons but I might have to work this into the change over. I almost installed the WM this weekend. Did the BSH mounts instead.

[ryan mills]

so, Op are you using both nozzles? what size? Also have you logged timing pull while runnig the 100 octane file? I'm trying to figure out where to begin with my kit. Thanks!

[ViRtUaLheretic]

so, Op are you using both nozzles? what size? Also have you logged timing pull while runnig the 100 octane file? I'm trying to figure out where to begin with my kit. Thanks!

With the DVC30 kit you are supplied wih two nozzles, I selected teh D03 nozzle as per the reccomendations based on here,golfmkv, and the Devils Own forums.
Devils own actually has a calculator program on their forum that can tell you approx what nozzle you should use based upon your engine size, RPM range, max boost. They said that our cars should run right around 3 gal/hr, but with the DO pump preset to 200psi from the factory and with the car running around 13volts instead of 12 volts it runs around 14gal/hr so I set the pump to 150psi which brings me right around 13gal/hr.

I have the single D03 nozzle installed into the bung closest to the TB (post map sensor).

I have done some logging (I need to do more) and my setup shows that I am well within normal operating range, pulling 4 degrees of timing. Cylinder 1 and Cylinder 4 seem to pull more timing and this just re-emphasizes my wishes to build my Direct Port Injection system. You can increase the amount of w/m being sprayed into the motor but that would increase consumption (which I don't want).

With the Direct Port Injection system I plan on using a D0.75 nozzle for each cylinder with a D02 nozzle pre-map installed to a on/off switch solenoid so I can choose when I want to run that nozzle and lower the IATs.

[steelcurtain]

I sees occasional spikes of 5 & 6 degrees timing pull but nothing sustained like the 1-3 degrees. Are you OP seeing this too when logging? I have seen this more when running base logs in 93 with no WMI then I have on base logs on 93 with WMI. I'm APR stage 2.

[ViRtUaLheretic]

I havent ran any logs without the w/m it turned on.
Now that you mention it I am goin to have to do just that.

I basically have a spike in timing, then it gradually gets better, yes.
Cylinder 1&4 are almost exactly the same while cylinder 2&3 are almost exactly the same.
Cylinders 2&3 pull about half as much timing as 1&4.

[ryan mills]

I'd like to see what your logs look like. I'm just logging block 20 when running methanol, and I'm seeing what I feel is quite a bit of timing pull, but then again, I never logged what the car is doing without methanol, so I really don't have a baseline. I started out with the #5 snow performance nozzle, but I was using about 1 gallon of methanol a day, so I knocked it back to the smallest one, and started logging. Sunday night I took the whole kit out to install it better, so I'll be making a little how to on a pretty nice braket, once my solenoid comes in.

[steelcurtain]

I'd like to see what your logs look like. I'm just logging block 20 when running methanol, and I'm seeing what I feel is quite a bit of timing pull, but then again, I never logged what the car is doing without methanol, so I really don't have a baseline. I started out with the #5 snow performance nozzle, but I was using about 1 gallon of methanol a day, so I knocked it back to the smallest one, and started logging. Sunday night I took the whole kit out to install it better, so I'll be making a little how to on a pretty nice braket, once my solenoid comes in.

Shoot me a PM with your email and I'll be happy to share the logs with you. You know I'm right up the road in Fred and have my own VAG-COM if you need to spend a weekend afternoon running logs. My understanding is that the #5 nozzle is 375ml and more for stage 3 instead of K04. But that may be up for debate.

I'M currently running 115-0,2,3 for RPM, specified boost and requested boost and 119-2 for N75 boost pressure control, 134-1,2 for ambient and IAT. and of course 20 bock for timing pull. It's pretty cool to see IATs only rise 2-3 degrees above ambient during WOT 3-4 gear pulls.

Here's my timing pull at WOT from 3200 - 6160 RPM (couldn't quite get it to redlline) . Looks good right. Okay look at the next section.

0 0 0 0
0 0 0 0
0 -3 0 0
0 0 -2.3 0
0 0 -2.3 0
0 0 -1.5 0
0 0 0 0
0 0 0 0
0 0 0 0
-2.3 0 0 -2.3
-2.3 0 0 -2.3
-2.3 0 0 -2.3
-2.3 0 0 -2.3


Here's me gagging at from 3840 - 4840. What's up with that 6 in cylinder 3? It was right when I let off the gas cause the ECU requested 1300 mbar and I was still at 2100 mbar then requested boost dropped to 300. Not sure why I see it and I don't see it all the time. I just don't know if this can be ignored since it isn't sustained timing pull like the rest of the cylinders reading -3. Anybody got an opinion on this?

0 0 0 0
0 0 0 0
0 -3 0 -3
-3 -3 0 -3
-3 -3 -6 -3
0 0 0 0
0 0 0 0
0 0 0 0

[steelcurtain]

I havent ran any logs without the w/m it turned on.
Now that you mention it I am goin to have to do just that.

I basically have a spike in timing, then it gradually gets better, yes.
Cylinder 1&4 are almost exactly the same while cylinder 2&3 are almost exactly the same.
Cylinders 2&3 pull about half as much timing as 1&4.

Kinda like this...with cylinder 1 - 4 going from left to right. This is 3rd gear pull on APR 93 with OEM plugs with 35K tuned miles RPM is 3120 - 6640. Running WMI 225 nozzle start 5 full 10.

I think it may be time to try the 100 octane file...


0 0 0 0
0 0 0 0
0 0 0 0
0 0 0 0
0 0 -2.3 0
0 0 -2.3 0
0 0 -1.5 0
0 0 -1.5 0
0 0 -1.5 0
0 0 -1.5 0
0 0 -0.8 0
0 0 -0.8 0
-3 0 -0.8 -3
-2.3 0 0 -2.3
-2.3 0 0 -2.3
-2.3 0 0 -2.3
-2.3 0 0 -2.3
-2.3 0 0 -2.3
-2.3 0 0 -2.3
-2.3 0 0 -2.3
-2.3 0 0 -2.3
-1.5 0 0 -1.5

[ViRtUaLheretic]

looks like you are good to go to try out the 100 octane file

I still have to try and log IAT sometime and see what my temps are looking like with the w/m on and off.

Oh and I made some progress on my new intake manifold:
Pic is of half of the sanding done:


I basically just need to start hand sanding the manifold now and start increasing to finer grits.
Should have this done being sanded in a week or two, then ill order up the direct injection kit from Devils Own and drill and tap this beeotch.

[Slayer]

I'll be making a little how to on a pretty nice braket, once my solenoid comes in.

Its in the mail now!

[ViRtUaLheretic]

Blah I saw a post this morning on golfmkv that BSH is going to release an Intake Manifold later this year.
Go figure they make a teaser post the day after I start hacking up a stock intake manifold lol

Ill try and tak ea better picture of my work so far later tonight.

[steelcurtain]

Screw it, you always appreciate something more when you put blood sweat and tears into it. I have a feeling that I might not be spraying. I never tested the nozzle (only the pump) before I installed it into the TB pipe. Just got home after a spirited drive to see that the meth only went down 2 rings on the reservoir neck. Does that sound about right for 45 minutes of spirited driving with a 225ml nozzle? The pump was running a lot with full at 10#. I

I may still have a small leak in the neck joint so hard to tell if I lost fluid from the leak of the spray. I really don't want to have to **** with the nozzle again for a while. My APR FMIC hose barely was able to fit onto the BSH TB and took two people to apply the correct pressure to crank er down.

I'm tempted to remove the nozzle but it looks like a bitch to without removing the TB being so snugged up to the MAP sensor.

[ViRtUaLheretic]

Screw it, you always appreciate something more when you put blood sweat and tears into it. I have a feeling that I might not be spraying. I never tested the nozzle (only the pump) before I installed it into the TB pipe. Just got home after a spirited drive to see that the meth only went down 2 rings on the reservoir neck. Does that sound about right for 45 minutes of spirited driving with a 225ml nozzle? The pump was running a lot with full at 10#. I

I may still have a small leak in the neck joint so hard to tell if I lost fluid from the leak of the spray. I really don't want to have to **** with the nozzle again for a while. My APR FMIC hose barely was able to fit onto the BSH TB and took two people to apply the correct pressure to crank er down.

I'm tempted to remove the nozzle but it looks like a bitch to without removing the TB being so snugged up to the MAP sensor.

DO you have a solenoid installed? might want to check that.
If not maybe just try to remove the hose from the nozzle and have a friend rev up your car and see if it sprays.

[steelcurtain]

DO you have a solenoid installed? might want to check that.
If not maybe just try to remove the hose from the nozzle and have a friend rev up your car and see if it sprays.

Good idea I'll give this a shot. But one problem....

My kit doesn't spray when the car is revved up in park. Does yours? The instructions below are for the SP kit for testing the controller but the pump didn't activate when I pressed on the vacuum line to the controller. I never saw the controller send power to the pump so I just reinstalled my bumper and took it for the test drive and finally saw power come to my LED when I reached my boost setting so i assumed I was spraying and working fine since this indicated power should now be going to the pump.

While troubleshooting why the testing of the controller didn't work, I put a multimeter on the wire coming from the controller to the pump and wasn't getting voltage on the pump wire when pressing on the vacuum line during the test sequence.

Doing the ml to oz conversion for a 225ml nozzle per min at full spray it would equate to 7oz for 1 minute of full spray. Given how much I drove and how many seconds I was over 10# of sustained boost (full spray) I would estimate at least 7oz of juice should be gone so I can't be spraying because 7 oz of fluid didn't leave my tank.

Begin the testing process with both dials on the variable controller at
their lowest settings (counter-clockwise).

· Turn ignition key on so that the system has 12 volt power. If the
pump runs, inspect ground wires for secure connection.

· Pump should be off at this point, apply light air pressure into vacuum
tube connection on back of controller. Pump should activate while
low pressure is applied but not enough to completely atomize fluid.

[steelcurtain]

Turns out I wasn't spraying. Got that fixed and ran some logs in 93 and 100. Max timing on 93 with meth was 6. Here's some of the worst on 100 w/ meth. I was just cruising on a back road gagging it in 3rd gear, except the first chart. The rest of the charts look horrible.

Here's my WOT from 1400 RPM to redline in 3rd gear on meth with 100 APR stage 2 (RPM on the right). Looks pretty good except the -6 in cylinder 4.

0 0 0 0 1400
0 0 0 0 1480
0 0 0 0 1560
-0.8 0 0 0 1640
-0.8 0 0 0 1760
-0.8 -1.5 0 -3 1920
-2.3 -3.8 -2.3 -3 2040
-2.3 -3.8 -2.3 -3 2280
-2.3 -3.8 -2.3 -3 2560
-2.3 -3.8 -2.3 -6 2840
-5.3 -3.8 -2.3 -6 3080
-5.3 -3.8 -2.3 -6 3360
-5.3 -3.8 -2.3 -6 3640
-5.3 -3 -1.5 -6 3880
0 -3.8 -1.5 0 4160
0 -3.8 -1.5 0 4480
0 -3 -0.8 0 4720
0 -3 -3.8 0 5000
0 -3 -3.8 0 5240
0 -2.3 -3.8 0 5480
-6 -2.3 -3.8 -6 5680
-6 -2.3 -3.8 -6 5880
-6 -2.3 -3.8 -6 6080
-6 -2.3 -3.8 -6 6240
-5.3 -2.3 -3 -5.3 6400
-5.3 -1.5 -3 -5.3 6560
-5.3 -1.5 -3 -5.3 6680
-4.5 -1.5 -2.3 -4.5 5000


2600 RPM - 4320 WOT I had 8 misfires in cylinder 2 and 2 in 3 at the same time I was pulling -8 -9.

0 0 0 0
0 0 0 0
0 0 0 0
0 0 0 0
0 0 0 0
0 0 0 0
0 0 0 0
0 0 0 0
-6 -5.3 -3 -6
-9 -8.3 -3 -9
-9 -8.3 -3 -9
-9 -8.3 -3 -9
-9 -8.3 -3 -9
-9 -8.3 -3 -9
-9 -8.3 -3 -9
-9 -8.3 -3 -9
-8.3 -7.5 -3 -8.3
-8.3 -7.5 -3 -8.3
-8.3 -7.5 -3 -8.3

2900 RPM - 3240

0 0 0 0
-7.5 -6.8 -3 -6.8
-7.5 -6.8 -2.3 -6.8
-7.5 -9.8 -5.3 -9.8
-6.8 -9.8 -5.3 -9.8
-6.8 -9.8 -5.3 -9.8
-6.8 -9.8 -5.3 -9.8


BARF! 3200 - 3600

0 -6 -3 -4.5
-6 -11.3 -12 -9.8
-9 -11.3 -12 -9.8
-9 -11.3 -12 -9.8
-9 -11.3 -12 -9.8
-9 -11.3 -12 -9.8
-9 -11.3 -12 0

[ViRtUaLheretic]

holy crap that looks nasty
I would back off of the 100 octane tune and triple check everything.
What fluid are you spraying?

[steelcurtain]

holy crap that looks nasty
I would back off of the 100 octane tune and triple check everything.
What fluid are you spraying?

Boost juice. Not much left to check except messing with my start and full settings.

[ViRtUaLheretic]

Boost juice. Not much left to check except messing with my start and full settings.

What are your start and full settings?

[steelcurtain]

What are your start and full settings?

4 on full at 10 but really hard to say for sure with the SP controller.