You might be an alcoholic when...

[Banned 4 Life]

I have my controller mounted in the exact same spot

Where did you get that button for your setup?
I have been thinking about have a 2 stage system where the direct port injection will always be on but I can press a button and spray in the TB pipe for some extra cooling benefits as well

Got the button from the dealership for $26.00 and $3.00 for the male connector to wire it up.

If you want to do the 2 stage then here is how I would set it up. Have a main line run into a w/m distibution manifold that has at least 5 outlet ports. Run four lines to your intake mani for the direct port. Run a fifth line to a solenoid block and then run a line out of the solenoid to the TB pipe. Hook a switch up to the solenoid and you can trigger it whenever you want while have the direct port working all the time. I suggest putting a switch on the controller's power line as well so you can turn it off, if you haven't already.

[Krieger]

car is fantastic and ive been saving gobs of money on gas... been getting regular and saving like 60 cents a gallon... and i refill every other day now. lmao work is so damn far away!!!

If i could hit my controller any better, I would, but im really torn between keeping this expensive car going with all of the known issues or going into a nice 240sx project and drop in a skyline motor and make crazy reliable power. gotten some CRAZY offers too...

anyways, my controller is mounted on my steering column and stares me in the face... I LOOOVVVEEE watching those lights pop on, wait a second for the timing to advance like crazy and BAM she pulls harder than i have ever seen lately, especially with 70 degree days finally!

if i do sell the car, the WM and boost gauge are totally coming with me.

[steelcurtain]

I figured I would provide an update on what I think is my problem behind dialing in my WMI. I know I said I was going to forget it but I can't quit now as I am determined to get this thing running right.

Looks like my fuel pump is taking a ****. Explains my timing issues. I'll be in stock mode until I can replace the pump. Just when the weather is getting cold too,

http://golfmkv.com/forums/showthread...=1#post2694512

Krieger - That switch is beast. I'm tired of yanking this damn wire out of the fuse to shut it off.

[Krieger]

i knew the MKVI would have some fueling issues too... even if it is just a weak pump over time.

I think I've decided Im going to keep this car for at least a bit longer, go BT and get her looking pretty and keep her as a nice show car and fun car and later on go buy a POS JDM or even just a shell and build that sucker from the ground up for either show or the track.

[steelcurtain]

Technically I'm an MKV w/ a TSI. Not sure if there is a difference in specified fuel rail with the MKVI.

[Slayer]

That fuel pressure looks fine.. its right around what its requesting.. if it was 20-30 bar below in the midrange or something, then yeah you'd have an issue. Your pump is fine. Look at some FSI logs of the fuel pressure, there's always a huge dip somewhere

[ViRtUaLheretic]

yeah, fuel pressure looks spot on

[steelcurtain]

That fuel pressure looks fine.. its right around what its requesting.. if it was 20-30 bar below in the midrange or something, then yeah you'd have an issue. Your pump is fine. Look at some FSI logs of the fuel pressure, there's always a huge dip somewhere

Well darn, I thought I was on to something. Glad to know that the pump isn't failing though but concerned with my timing pull on the 93 file with no meth. It may just be bad gas though.

[steelcurtain]

Virtual - You wouldn't happen to have the TSI intake mani part # do you? I may be replacing it soon but out of warranty so I might not be covered. Nice video on youtube BTW. Stumbled on it while looking for the part.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6McP_FmZ9Lk

[drppedfikse]

Part No.# 06J133201G

Order from Paul at Keffer. Where I got mine and cheapest place to get it!!!

http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...?siteid=215844

[steelcurtain]

Part No.# 06J133201G

Order from Paul at Keffer. Where I got mine and cheapest place to get it!!!

http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...?siteid=215844

Thanks 05jettagli. Keffer has it listed for MSRP on their website @ $208.00 but I found it on genuinevwparts.com for $60 of MSRP @ $149.76. Should I call and speak with Paul?

Thanks again.

[drppedfikse]

Yeah no problem. Yeah I would send him a message. He has a code to enter on his site for vortex members. I paid a little more than that shipped to NM. Other part is its a special order part. I waited about a month to get my hands on it.

[ViRtUaLheretic]

Thank for covering for me 05JettaGLI

[ViRtUaLheretic]

I just ordered all my goodies for my direct port injection setup.

Got all my parts from Devils own.
Im going with four DO.75 nozzles for octane boost and a DO1 nozzle to go in the TB pipe for cooling

[ViRtUaLheretic]

Whats that? Got new parts wooohoo!






bunch of extra tubing:


Heres a mock up of how the system is going to be setup:
Y split to a check to a Y with both lines going in to the direct port tap post then out to each runner


Another angle (sorry the meth gives me the shakes):


closeup:


direct port tap setup:






nozzle holder:


four DO.75 nozzles:


one DO1 nozzle (for the TB pipe):


mock up showing the nozzle slightly screwed into the nozzle holder:

[ViRtUaLheretic]

So its time for me to start installing the nozzles for the direct port setup and Ive hit a small roadblock (due to poor planning).
Basically what the problem is that when I smoothed down the intake manifold I had to cut out the mounting points for a hard line that passes right over the intake manifold.
pic for reference (yeah yeah the motor looks all stock, but I took the pic shortly after I bought my car lol):


In the pic look at the shiny hard line that passes right over the intake manifold.

Now here are the options that I have come up with.

1) I can remove the entire hard line section and replace it with a flexible line, either braided stainles or a durable more flexible line like Earl's Performance Pro Lite hose:

If I were to use the Pro Lite hose I could cut the stock hoses back and convert it over to use this type of line exclusively for a cleaner look, plus then I could reroute the line to get it out of the way.

2) I havent tested to see how much "give" is in the current line but I could move the hard line and secure it to another mounting location via a custom bracket or a folding clasp of some sort.

3) Get a custom hardline bent to replace the stock piece that would use a different mounting point.

What do you guys think?
Im leaning towards using the Pro Lite hose, but im worried about removing the hard line. My concern is why did VW use a hardline at that specific point instead of keeping the rubber hose all the way through?

[ViRtUaLheretic]

After doing some research the hardline appears to be used for the EVAP system so it shouldnt matter if I use a non hardline.
Its looking like I will relocate the hose under the Intake Manifold then

[naemcivic]

ViRtUaLheretic, have you had a chance to dismantle the head? I would like to see if the WMI has a positive effect for the carbon buildup issue. thanx.

[ViRtUaLheretic]

ViRtUaLheretic, have you had a chance to dismantle the head? I would like to see if the WMI has a positive effect for the carbon buildup issue. thanx.

Not yet, I need to finish the Intake Manifold then wait for a good weekend to install it
Im thinking 2 or 3 weeks from now

[guesswho]

Not yet, I need to finish the Intake Manifold then wait for a good weekend to install it
Im thinking 2 or 3 weeks from now

soooo?

[ViRtUaLheretic]

soooo?

Ive been trying to source a solution to replace the fuel hardline that attaches to the intake manifold.

I discovered that the 2010+ Tiguans have one 9soft) fuel line that replaces the 3 part fuel line section on our cars, but when I tried to order it from ECS tuning they wanted $100 for it and they had to special order it from Germany with no ETA (even though their website showed it as IN STOCK).

Im just going to follow the nn-OEM route and just buy the same size fuel line from Autozone and replace it.
Im thinking about finishing this up this weekend, then I can finalize the intake manifold to be installed.

Then all I need is a 3 day weekend to remove the manifold and clean the valves. the nreinstall.

[guesswho]

awesome dude... keep updating!

[ViRtUaLheretic]

Oh I will, I love keeping build threads and logs and taking pictures and stuff.

Sadly, it snowed today so I doubt Iwill be wrenching on the dub this weekend.

[ViRtUaLheretic]

I got off my lazy @$$ and got cracking on the direct port injection intake manifold....
(Thanks for the motivation "guesswho" on vortex!)

drileld the pilot holes:


Closeup:


Drilled out the holes larger:





I used a spare piece ofwood to test out th ecorrect size of the hole and the threading for the tap before I drileld and tapped the intake manifold:


Tapping the threads on the manifold:


Test fitting the nozzle:


For the final nozzle install I had to screw the nozzle into the nozzle holder and then thread the two pieces while they were connected into the intake manifold. It was kind of hard to thread the nozzles in properly as the IM is contoured, butwith some brute force iwas able to get it done.
If you look at the port on the far left yo uwill notice that I had to bust out a handy dandy file and shave down some of the mold casting in order to be able to thread the nozzle + holder into the IM.

Sorry I didnt take any pictures in between these steps, but here is the final product:

[naemcivic]

can't wait to hear about this setup...it looks amazing! also waiting for OP to report back on if there are carbon buildup with WMI in place.

[Krieger]

you plan on running pure meth? would be much more beneficial to you than 50/50, imho.

[ViRtUaLheretic]

I run a ~40/60 w/m mixture.
The game plan is to have a Y split before the distribution block and run a DO solenoid hooked to a switch in the cabin that has a DO1 nozzle pre MAP.
This way I can get the best of both worlds on tap. I will most likely not use the DO1 nozzle during daily commutes but when it comes time to have some fun I will turn on the DO1 nozzle and reap the benefits of chemical intercooling

[Krieger]

why not run it daily? I ran a DO3 slightly post MAP daily with WM, now a DO5 with LOOOOTTTS of meth and its a night and day difference.

meth wont quench flame, so id recommend running at least 51%. trust me. its like a kick in the ass when that stuff kicks on... I can only imagine how strong it would be if your injecting it directly before your valves....

I wanted to paint my manifold too... but never had tome to do it... always busy fixing oil leaks, boost leaks, torn boots, various other stupid ****. lmao

[ViRtUaLheretic]

why not run it daily? I ran a DO3 slightly post MAP daily with WM, now a DO5 with LOOOOTTTS of meth and its a night and day difference.

meth wont quench flame, so id recommend running at least 51%. trust me. its like a kick in the ass when that stuff kicks on... I can only imagine how strong it would be if your injecting it directly before your valves....

I wanted to paint my manifold too... but never had tome to do it... always busy fixing oil leaks, boost leaks, torn boots, various other stupid ****. lmao

If I had a larger w/m tank I would run the extra DO1 nozzle. However 80% of my driving is rushour bull$hit sitting in traffic stop and go stop and go so I really wouldnt need the extra nozzle.
Im going to have to do a lot of logging with the new direct port injection setup to see how everything changes. Chances are Im going to have to adjust my mixture and maybe dial in the psi forthe pump again

[Krieger]

did you tap your WW bottle? I have that tapped and just top it off weekly when I check my oil. only when im racing or driving like a lunatic will it need to be refilled in less than like 4 or 5 days.

[ViRtUaLheretic]

Yeah I tapped my WW tank, I have to fill it up about once a week or so, usually coincides with filling up my gas tank.
Id really like to install a 2 gallon tank, butI dont want to lose any hatch/cabin space

[Krieger]

could always mod the WW tank feed neck to be a tank that connects to the main bottle. might get another half gallon or maybe even a gallon up there if you can get the right container.

[ViRtUaLheretic]

could always mod the WW tank feed neck to be a tank that connects to the main bottle. might get another half gallon or maybe even a gallon up there if you can get the right container.

Ive thought about this but couldnt picture a good plan.
Working with plastics can be a pain in the ass.

I wonder if theTourag or Tiguan or Routan has alarge WW tank?

It would be awesome to do something like BSH did with their shop car:


**Hint Hint, BSH**

[lowerthanzimmy]

Here is a pic of of where I mounted my controller.

im mounting my WOT box in this spot.....still trying to figure out this w/m i know its going to help me in the long run.....this thread was a huge help......i do have a few questions though

...running w/m on a DD....if im running 93oct file normal driving... is timing pull much of a concern as it is to be in 100oct file?

.....if the reservoir is empty will the pump keep kicking on? or does the controller have a option to turn it off?

DO or SP? thanks for the help man!

do you suggest tapping the WW bottle over the dinky tank that comes with the kit?

[Krieger]

You could run 93 tune, 87 in the tank just fine. I did that and even went on the dyno like that and pulled the same numbers most others did on 93.

I havnt logged for 100 oct yet, but ive been in 100 oct mode with 93 in the tank and 80% meth and it pulls pretty nice, I must say.

if it wasnt for all this damn rain, id be tearing this **** up.

as far as the reservoir being empty: the pump will stay on. thats why its recommended you install a float switch to warn you of a low fluid level... as per any manufacturer's instructions... OR, just tap the windshield fluid bottle and there is already one in there.

when my low level light comes on, I just reach up and turn my boost settings to like 20 PSI each and she doesnt kick on any more till I reset it.