You might be an alcoholic when...

[ViRtUaLheretic]

hmmm, thats what im using

[ViRtUaLheretic]

did a bit of research...


im usng the D03 nozzle:
3 GPH (189ml/min)

that is at 12 volts to the pump @ 200psi.
Since our cars run at 13volts I set my pump to 150psi to give me 3gph.

Any idea what psi your pump is working at?

[steelcurtain]

did a bit of research...


im usng the D03 nozzle:
3 GPH (189ml/min)

that is at 12 volts to the pump @ 200psi.
Since our cars run at 13volts I set my pump to 150psi to give me 3gph.

Any idea what psi your pump is working at?

My pump runs at 150psi. I have 12v going to the pump by tapping slot 5 in the drivers side fuse box(tested on mulitmeter). I'm not sure how or if you can adjust the PSI on the SP pump. My car last dynoed 236whp 279wtq so I figured a 225ml is good 175 is not enough and a 325 is too much.

Timing pull is 1-3 when running APR stage 2 93 octane w/ no meth and 1-5 with meth with an occasional spike to 6 at start 4 full 10. I usually run shell and filled up with Exxon since I ran low on the highway running logs. I exceed requested boost from 3k to redline and IAT average 2 - 13 degrees Celcius so heat soak is not an issue. I have new plugs and have no misfires issues when I'm running on 93 meth or no meth. I have pegged 8 misfires in cylinder 2 when running the 100 file w/ metanol. The tune and the amount of meth, either too much or too little, is causing misfires.

Are excessive misfires a sign of too much meth or too little?

Look at this, BARF!!!. From left to right, columns 1-4 are cylinder misfire, 5-8 is timing pull and 9 is RPM. Anyone - Do I need to start spraying sooner or later to avoid this at low RPM's?

0 6 1 0 0 0 0 0 2560
0 6 1 0 0 0 -0.8 0 2560
0 6 1 0 0 0 -0.8 0 2640
0 6 1 0 -6 -9 -3.8 -6 2760
0 6 1 0 -12 -9 -6.8 -12 2720
0 6 1 0 -12 -9 -6.8 -12 2800
0 6 1 0 -12 -9 -6.8 -12 2880
0 6 1 0 -12 -9 -6.8 -12 2920
0 6 1 0 0 0 0 0 2960
0 7 1 0 0 0 0 0 2880
0 7 1 0 0 0 0 0 2840

[drppedfikse]

From the looks of that log the 1-4 columns are total count misfires not instant. I think you need to check EGT and maybe injector pulse for cylinder 2? Have you checked your spark plug in cylinder 2? I would check gap or maybe even pull the intake manifold to see if its a flow problem. I am by no means a genius in this I am just throwing ideas out there.

[steelcurtain]

From the looks of that log the 1-4 columns are total count misfires not instant. I think you need to check EGT and maybe injector pulse for cylinder 2? Have you checked your spark plug in cylinder 2? I would check gap or maybe even pull the intake manifold to see if its a flow problem. I am by no means a genius in this I am just throwing ideas out there.

Thanks for your help. I have all 4 plugs gapped at .028 per APR spec. I just installed them last week. I had 15-1,2,3 and 16-1 selected for misfires. I think there is a separate block for total count misfires cause I remember seeing it. How do I check for EGT and injector pulse?

I ran a second set of logs today using different start and full settings. I had barely any misfires on these pulls but my timing pull was still bad. Ironically, while I was at idle reviewing the first set of logs I threw a MIL. I know there is a TSB (TSB# 2018652/2) on this for us TSI folks so I'm researching to see if I qualify. I have the ABS code intermittently for the last 4K miles but this is a first for the Angle Sensor. Ironically, the I looked at my mileage gauge and it was at 35,997....just 3 miles before being out of warranty!

What should the proper value be for throttle valve sensor 2 (g188) when in WOT? Here is a 3rd gear pull, RPM on the left, misfires columns 2-5, timing is 6-9, and throttle sensor last column on right. Mine appears to take a major nose dive but this may be normal.


2880 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 72.3
2800 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 70.3
2880 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 68
3040 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 66.4
3280 0 0 0 0 -9 -9 -7.5 -8.3 10.5
3560 0 0 0 0 -9 -9 -7.5 -11.3 52
3760 0 0 0 0 -9 -9 -7.5 -11.3 45.3
4000 0 0 0 0 -9 -9 -7.5 -11.3 7.8
4240 0 0 0 0 -9 -9 -7.5 -11.3 7.8
4480 0 0 0 0 -8.3 -8.3 -6.8 -10.5 7.8
4760 0 0 0 0 -8.3 -8.3 -6.8 -10.5 7.8
5000 0 0 0 0 -7.5 -7.5 -9.8 -9.8 7.8
5240 0 0 0 0 -7.5 -7.5 -9.8 -9.8 8.2
5440 0 0 0 0 -7.5 -7.5 -9.8 -9.8 7.8
5640 0 0 0 0 -12 -7.5 -9.8 -12 8.2
5840 0 0 0 0 -12 -7.5 -9.8 -12 7.8
6000 0 0 0 0 -12 -7.5 -9.8 -12 7.8
6160 0 0 0 0 -11.3 -7.5 -9 -11.3 7.8
6320 0 0 0 0 -11.3 -6.8 -9 -11.3 7.8
6480 0 0 0 0 -11.3 -6.8 -9 -11.3 7.4
6600 0 0 0 0 -11.3 -6.8 -9 -11.3 7.8
6040 0 0 0 0 -11.3 -6.8 -9 -11.3 7.8
4960 0 0 0 0 -10.5 -6.8 -9 -10.5 75


000545 - Angle Sensor 2 for Throttle (G188): Implausible Signal
P0221 - 000 - - - MIL ON
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 11100000
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Mileage: 57932 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2000.00.00
Time: 18:20:02

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 785 /min
Load: 21.2 %
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Temperature: 100.0°C
Temperature: 51.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 1010.0 mbar
Voltage: 13.843 V

Readiness: 0010 0101

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 02: Auto Trans Labels: 02E-300-0xx.lbl
Part No SW: 02E 300 051 C HW: 02E 927 770 AJ
Component: GSG DSG AG6 431 1815
Revision: 04843012 Serial number: 00000807011549
Coding: 0000020
Shop #: WSC 01269 785 00200
VCID: 132EA4764B1D

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 03: ABS Brakes (-----) Labels: 1K0-907-379-60EC1F.clb
Part No SW: 1K0 907 379 AE HW: 1K0 907 379 AE
Component: ESP MK60EC1 H35 0104
Revision: 00H35001
Coding: 113B600D49280000881306ED921D0041B100
Shop #: WSC 01316 785 00200
VCID: 75EAFAEE65A9

1 Fault Found:
01314 - Engine Control Module
013 - Check DTC Memory
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01101101
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 243
Mileage: 57932 km
Time Indication: 0

Freeze Frame:
Count: 8
Count: 32782
Count: 12800
Count: 8193
Count: 49920
Count: 256
Count: 0
Count: 0

[drppedfikse]

Plugs sound good but I would still check them since you been running WM and 100 oct file. If it matches the rest then that can eliminate somethings. Injector stuff is 101-109 for vag-com. EGT is 43 I believe. Some of it will be overlapping data.

[steelcurtain]

Plugs sound good but I would still check them since you been running WM and 100 oct file. If it matches the rest then that can eliminate somethings. Injector stuff is 101-109 for vag-com. EGT is 43 I believe. Some of it will be overlapping data.

I will check them again and thank you for the blocks. What values for EGT and injectors would you consider acceptable for a 93 and 100 tune?

[drppedfikse]

Honestly not sure what values are consistent for the TSI cars. I would more or less compare before and after to see if WM or your gas is a problem. Running really hot would be running lean and running cooler would be really rich. Does

[ryan mills]

something isn't right. I never saw over -6 degress of pull on my k04 car with the #3 nozzle from snow performance. This was running the 100 octane GIAC file. If you have a boost gauge, hooking up an LED to the positive pump wire helps quite a bit with tuning/tweeking. You don't think the methanol is pooling up at the bottom of your piping and causing issues do you? I know it's a pain to check, but it might be worth looking into. Also Richmond dragway sells 99.996% methanol for $30 for 5-gallons, bring cash on Friday night street car nights. That's 10 gallons of mix for about $35.

[steelcurtain]

something isn't right. I never saw over -6 degress of pull on my k04 car with the #3 nozzle from snow performance. This was running the 100 octane GIAC file. If you have a boost gauge, hooking up an LED to the positive pump wire helps quite a bit with tuning/tweeking. You don't think the methanol is pooling up at the bottom of your piping and causing issues do you? I know it's a pain to check, but it might be worth looking into. Also Richmond dragway sells 99.996% methanol for $30 for 5-gallons, bring cash on Friday night street car nights. That's 10 gallons of mix for about $35.

You're correct, something isn't right and I went into limp mode today! I've checked for pooling and everything looks good. I threw the G188 code while at idle in between running logs a couple of days ago. Since then, I have powered off the pump and running just my 93 file while I did some research. Today I went into limp mode and threw the J338 code and the G188. I also can no longer perform a Throttle Body Alignment due to it erroring out. (I haven't tried this since going limp since I'm not erasing the codes) I saw TBS failing intermittently before the WMI/BSH TB install so unless the TB is dirty, I really don't think this mod caused my problem but only made it more visible by going WOT for all the logs I did.

My research has concluded the following as possible culprit(s). I ironically started throwing MIL at 35, 997 miles...just 3 miles before being out of warranty.

I have EPC issues with G188 and J338. Could be many things from the obvious throttle body replacement and/or throttle foot pedal sensor replacement, dirty TB, TB wiring harness issues (TSB# 2018652/2), bad grounds, low battery voltage, failing ECU or bad leads on ECU, bad coilpacks. My dealer is good to me so they will probably warranty it. Or they will see that bright shiny red hose going to my TB pipe and tell me I've gone too far this time.

Either way, as of now, it is the only thing to run with as to why my timing was so jacked up. I would like to check out the track in Richmond. I usually go to Buds Creek on Sundays but Richmond is much closer. Plus budds doesn't do the test and tune on Friday nights. So they basically half price the meth on Fridays? That's awesome, all the tuning shops that sell meth in Fredericksburg were pretty pricey so I might have to hook that up once I get everything in order.

Ryan, 05jettagli and virtualathletic - I really appreciate your feedback on my posts regarding my timing issues. Thanks guys.

TSB# 2018652/2
G188 TSB
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...n-this-morning...
http://www.golfmkv.com/forums/showthread.php?t=107058
http://www.golfmkv.com/forums/showthread.php?t=97731
Really good thread
http://www.evvo.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=17473
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...-and-EPC-light
How to log for the g188
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4211775


Wednesday,22,September,2010,18:03:16:22642
VCDS Version: Release 10.6.0
Data version: 20100630



--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Chassis Type: 1K0
Scan: 01 02 03 08 09 0F 15 16 17 19 1C 25 42 44 46 52 55 56 65

Mileage: 58180km/36151miles

01-Engine -- Status: Malfunction 0010
02-Auto Trans -- Status: OK 0000
03-ABS Brakes -- Status: Malfunction 0010
04-Steering Angle -- Status: OK 0000
08-Auto HVAC -- Status: OK 0000
09-Cent. Elect. -- Status: OK 0000
0F-Digital Radio -- Status: OK 0000
15-Airbags -- Status: OK 0000
16-Steering wheel -- Status: OK 0000
17-Instruments -- Status: OK 0000
19-CAN Gateway -- Status: OK 0000
1C-Position Sensing -- Status: OK 0000
25-Immobilizer -- Status: OK 0000
42-Door Elect, Driver -- Status: OK 0000
44-Steering Assist -- Status: OK 0000
46-Central Conv. -- Status: OK 0000
52-Door Elect, Pass. -- Status: OK 0000
55-Xenon Range -- Status: OK 0000
56-Radio -- Status: OK 0000
65-Tire Pressure -- Status: OK 0000

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine (CCT) Labels: 06J-906-026-CCT.clb
Part No SW: 1K0 907 115 AE HW: 1K0 907 115 AA
Component: 2.0l R4/4V TFSI 0030
Revision: AAH03--- Serial number: VWX7Z0H63NH8H7
Coding: 0403010A1C070160
Shop #: WSC 01269 785 00200
VCID: 69D2A69E3911

2 Faults Found:
005476 - Throttle Actuator (J338): Under-Voltage during Basic Setting
P1564 - 000 - - - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100000
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2111.15.31
Time: 31:63:63

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 0 /min
Load: 0.0 %
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Temperature: 27.0°C
Temperature: 27.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 1010.0 mbar
Voltage: 12.192 V

000545 - Angle Sensor 2 for Throttle (G188): Implausible Signal
P0221 - 000 - - - MIL ON
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 11100000
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Mileage: 58175 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2000.00.00
Time: 17:44:51

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 2567 /min
Load: 21.6 %
Speed: 21.0 km/h
Temperature: 105.0°C
Temperature: 51.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 1000.0 mbar
Voltage: 13.462 V

[ViRtUaLheretic]

moar work on the intake manifold:


3rd and 4th runners are almost done having the casting sanded:


pretty dran smooth (runner 1):


2nd runner:


3rd:


4th:


Im done with the 200 grit on the 4th runner now, time to step up to 300 or 400:


3rd runner is the same way:


good progress:

[ryan mills]

you better paint that intake manifold when you're done! maybe hit it with some "high build" primer before hand. Also I would like to find out what happeens with steel curtains car.

[steelcurtain]

you better paint that intake manifold when you're done! maybe hit it with some "high build" primer before hand. Also I would like to find out what happeens with steel curtains car.

Looking good virtual!

Ryan - I've been adjusting the pump pressure this weekend with disappointing results. I'm gonna take another attempt tonight. How's that new apr k04 file on meth? LOL

[ViRtUaLheretic]

you better paint that intake manifold when you're done! maybe hit it with some "high build" primer before hand. Also I would like to find out what happeens with steel curtains car.

Ive been thinking about that, maybe sand down the entire intake manifold and paint it wit hseveral coats of high temp heat resistant paint...

[ryan mills]

Looking good virtual!

Ryan - I've been adjusting the pump pressure this weekend with disappointing results. I'm gonna take another attempt tonight. How's that new apr k04 file on meth? LOL

The 93 octane APR file is more than the 100 octane GIAC file on Methanol. I haven't even tried the APR 100 octane file yet, I'm a little scared. I might try both the methanol and 100 octane tonight, not sure yet.

[drppedfikse]

I just got my intake manifold today. I just went at it with the grinder and knife. I am leaving the parts where screws go but everything else will be removed and sanded smooth. Will be painted matte black. Yours is looking good though. I got about 50% of the left 2 runners completed.

[steelcurtain]

Well my third round using different pump pressure settings wasn't safe enough on 100. I'm not sweating it though. Tired of beatin on my car so I'm just gonna run it with 93. No sense on blowin it up before I go BT in 6 months!

[steelcurtain]

I haven't even tried the APR 100 octane file yet, I'm a little scared. I might try both the methanol and 100 octane tonight, not sure yet.

DO IT! You know you want to! Just kidding, log it on 93 w/ meth first man.

[ViRtUaLheretic]

DO IT! You know you want to! Just kidding, log it on 93 w/ meth first man.

Yes yes! do eeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeet

Well my third round using different pump pressure settings wasn't safe enough on 100. I'm not sweating it though. Tired of beatin on my car so I'm just gonna run it with 93. No sense on blowin it up before I go BT in 6 months!

Have yo utried contacting the manufacturer to determine where the screw needs to be for a set pressure? 150psi or 200psi should do it.

I just got my intake manifold today. I just went at it with the grinder and knife. I am leaving the parts where screws go but everything else will be removed and sanded smooth. Will be painted matte black. Yours is looking good though. I got about 50% of the left 2 runners completed.

Your intake manifold + my intake manifold = a finished intake manifold haha
I cut of one of the screw locations on the 4th runner as that is directly where I wanted to drill and tap for the nozzle.
I want to try and get to the end of the runner so there is still some time so the w/m can properly atomize, and that damn screw hole for that hardline has got to go

[drppedfikse]

Your intake manifold + my intake manifold = a finished intake manifold haha
I cut of one of the screw locations on the 4th runner as that is directly where I wanted to drill and tap for the nozzle.
I want to try and get to the end of the runner so there is still some time so the w/m can properly atomize, and that damn screw hole for that hardline has got to go

Yeah like I had mentioned before I wanted to do mine for looks first but now that I thought about it I might as well add that to my function. I am wondering if I can remove the damn intake fins in the manifold without incuring any major troubles. I am half tempted to try it but I am thinking it will require a tune or software. I guess since its a back up manifold I could always rip them out and if that doesn't work but the stock back in.

[ViRtUaLheretic]

Therer have been a few ppl with FSI motors that have fully sanded down the intake manifolds and painted them.
You shouldnt have a problem.
I thought about removing all of the casting fins as well, but that s a lot of extra work, and Im not too concerned about the looks of the motor.

[drppedfikse]

Yeah I got the idea of the outside from some pics of one of their cars. I wish Eurojet would make a valve cover for the car as ours is too congested with crap. I am talking about the flaps on the inside though. That is what I am worried about removing.

[ViRtUaLheretic]

Oh you want to remove the flappers?
I wouldnt do that.
The ECU adjusts the flappers to correct the air/fuel ratio (I believe so).
Your car wouldnt be happy bout that one.

[mikeg6045]

Yeah I got the idea of the outside from some pics of one of their cars. I wish Eurojet would make a valve cover for the car as ours is too congested with crap. I am talking about the flaps on the inside though. That is what I am worried about removing.

I'm not telling you what to do, but I would highly suggest you do now remove them. Your car will run horribly if you do so, especially without a tune. even with a tune, it has proven to be unsuccessful (on the BT FSI cars)

[drppedfikse]

Yeah that is likely what will happen. I have made more progress on my intake manifold. I need to go buy a few extra tools to get everything perfect but its coming along well.

[drppedfikse]

Almost done with the manifold!!

[ViRtUaLheretic]

where are you planning on tapping for the w/m nozzles?

[drppedfikse]

As close to the top as possible. I might be waiting on that till I get the WM hardware installed and tested.

[ViRtUaLheretic]

I finished up sanding the intake manifold, cleaned out the inside and started to paint the intake manifold:











The paint:



Now I will have to say the pictures make the intake manifold look a LOT more shiny with a glossy finish, the finish is glossy but not as much as the pictures look

[Krieger]

you can do better than that man!

sand the whole thing up so it bonds well, primer it, and then go ahead and paint it. its not going to get that hot, ESPECIALLY with WM in there to require that kind of paint either, so make it classy.

do it right or you will find yourself probably doing it twice.

[ViRtUaLheretic]

I did sand the whole thing

[Slayer]

shoulda used krylon since it bonds with plastic.. don't need engine enamel on the intake, it doesnt get hot enough

[ViRtUaLheretic]

We had 4 or 5 cans of this stuff in the garage already and figured what the hell Id go ahead and use it.
Figure it cant hurt and it might just keep temps down a teeny bit

[Banned 4 Life]

you can do better than that man!

sand the whole thing up so it bonds well, primer it, and then go ahead and paint it. its not going to get that hot, ESPECIALLY with WM in there to require that kind of paint either, so make it classy.

do it right or you will find yourself probably doing it twice.

THIS^^^ Kreiger I think you and I are sharing brainwaves or something bro, we both read and respond to the same posts all the time. LOL. How's you car doing? just had the dealer replace my PCV valve and they noticed my BSH Throttle Pipe and no big deal, but they kep t asking what the nylon tube coming from the (w/m)pump is. My response is to just ask another stupid question, then the GM of the dealer came to me( I used to work there, so its all good) and asked me what it was. Well apparently I forgot to turn off my w/m and one of the techs was talking to the service advisor as to howmy car was soo much faster than most lightly modded GTI's and the GM wanted to know how he cold tune his GTI to be the same. Great dealership family owned with an enthusiast for a General Manager= Most mod friendly dealer around(at least for me). This was all started cuz they saw this and drove the car.



and this is what I like to call "Kill Mode"



Here is a pic of of where I mounted my controller.

[ViRtUaLheretic]

I have my controller mounted in the exact same spot

Where did you get that button for your setup?
I have been thinking about have a 2 stage system where the direct port injection will always be on but I can press a button and spray in the TB pipe for some extra cooling benefits as well