yea that's what we did on stuwart's car
#36
Quote, originally posted by agnhare77 » I have a s&w roll bar for my rabbit it has 6x6 plates that came with it I was planning on just welding a upper plate in with no lower or bolts. Will this be legal? Yes, but I recommend bending the plate so that it attaches to the rockers also. I just don't trust factory floorpans to take all the forces in a serious crash.
Life begins at 101 kpa ...and so does poverty--Lugnuts Calhoun
#37
yea that's what we did on stuwart's car
#38
ok, so i just got off the phone with my chassis tech guy. it seems that AWD were sorta left out on this. here is what he told me.he hadnt had a chance to look into it, then he didnt see stuff pertaining to AWD setups such as mine. so he called to N Carolina to the MAIN DUDE for the chassis division. they discussed it, sent my pix back and forth, and here is what they came up with.
for the AWD cars, the tunnel is just as it is for a RWD car, to house the driveline. thus, their intent is that it is stronger. so he told me i could do one of two things.
A: plate the sides of the tunnel, 1/8" 6 X 6 welded 100%. then bring 1.25 x 0.118 wall "D" bars to those plates. or i could plate and wrap the tunnel with 6 X 12 plate, and go to the upper portion/side of the plate on either side.
B: i could run 1 5/8" X 0.118 (mines MS) from hoop leg to hoop leg contoured to clear the tunnel, and 1.25 X 0.118 "D" bars down to this cross bar.
no rocker action for the AWD club. and as far as FWD, he didnt go into that with me as he was intent on telling me the AWD ruling....
i hope that helps some people. and if i were faced with an already build cage in an FWD chassis, i would call and ask WTF could you do....
#39
^^^lucky bastard!
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we got our rocker bar made and 60% welded in. it wasn't fun. we spent 3 hours just making it fit. but the next time we have to do one in a mk3 we know how to make it easier so if anyone ever has any questions about doing it for the mk3 platform GTI's PM me or tim!
pictures will be up sometime tonight or tomorrow
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K&H fabrication...find us on Facebook! www.facebook.com/khfabrication!
back in the game...but RWD and skidracin
13.24@102 all motor stock motor 12v VR6...bolt on's only
#40
its me, Kurtis..... ^^^^^^^^ this is my wifes acct i post on.BUT!
the BOOK JUST GOT HERE!!!!!!
gonna looksy at it and post up the pertinent info!
#41
**** that bar. Took 4 hours with a belt sander to make it right.
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#42
Quote, originally posted by corradogirlie » its me, Kurtis..... ^^^^^^^^ this is my wifes acct i post on. BUT!
the BOOK JUST GOT HERE!!!!!!
gonna looksy at it and post up the pertinent info!
i know that
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we got our book before you apparentlyit says about the same thing the 2008 rulebook says
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but for everyone wondering. the picture that tim just posted. thats the way the bar has to be made from what we've been told by everyone. and it sucks
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K&H fabrication...find us on Facebook! www.facebook.com/khfabrication!
back in the game...but RWD and skidracin
13.24@102 all motor stock motor 12v VR6...bolt on's only
#43
Are you gonna run aftermarket seat seats in the front Tim?
Life begins at 101 kpa ...and so does poverty--Lugnuts Calhoun
#44
Quote, originally posted by Mark Morris » Are you gonna run aftermarket seat seats in the front Tim? he has a set of corbeau seats that i sold him for the front
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K&H fabrication...find us on Facebook! www.facebook.com/khfabrication!
back in the game...but RWD and skidracin
13.24@102 all motor stock motor 12v VR6...bolt on's only
#45
Cool-- I was hoping you weren't going to try and put the stock seats back in their original locations.![]()
Life begins at 101 kpa ...and so does poverty--Lugnuts Calhoun
#46
Are stock seats even legal below 10.5, I thought the needed to be bolted in... not on sliders?
#47
Quote, originally posted by Mark Morris » Cool-- I was hoping you weren't going to try and put the stock seats back in their original locations. ![]()
lol yea the factory seat sliders are cut to fit those 6x6 plates
the adapters barely still fit in there
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K&H fabrication...find us on Facebook! www.facebook.com/khfabrication!
back in the game...but RWD and skidracin
13.24@102 all motor stock motor 12v VR6...bolt on's only
#48
Quote, originally posted by hypothetical » Are stock seats even legal below 10.5, I thought the needed to be bolted in... not on sliders? I *think* so, but wouldn't swear to anything..... I've definitely seen sub 10.5 cars running factory seats/ sliders.
Life begins at 101 kpa ...and so does poverty--Lugnuts Calhoun
#49
Well since this is the safety thread let me tell you all a story.I have a friend who USE TO run 10.5 class Mustangs. Long/short of his story.
Beautiful car > Goes fast off the line > Hits wall at 1/8 mile mark > Hits wall at 1000 ft mark > Stock seat comes off sliders > Harness mounted incorrectly to seat > Crushed both legs at knees > Had to amputate right one immediately >
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> Left one inoperable might as well cut it off...>
#50
Quote, originally posted by hypothetical » Well since this is the safety thread let me tell you all a story. I have a friend who USE TO run 10.5 class Mustangs. Long/short of his story.
Beautiful car > Goes fast off the line > Hits wall at 1/8 mile mark > Hits wall at 1000 ft mark > Stock seat comes off sliders > Harness mounted incorrectly to seat > Crushed both legs at knees > Had to amputate right one immediately >
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> Left one inoperable might as well cut it off...>
thats terrible
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K&H fabrication...find us on Facebook! www.facebook.com/khfabrication!
back in the game...but RWD and skidracin
13.24@102 all motor stock motor 12v VR6...bolt on's only
#51
damn Andy..... that IS terrible. i may double think my seat mounting while i am in the garage this weekhere is what i decided today. 30 minutes later, ready to build again.
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#52
it was terrible.NICE prgress!!! I like what you've done, grinders are great...but bare footed?
#53
Got it all done minus the window net. Our buddy who is a very good tig welder and builds drift car cages decided he wanted to do the X i wanted in the rear. Came out pretty good.
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#54
Looks good. I am in line for Import Face Off here in Gainesville. Haven't done any changes, will see what they say? Could be a short day.
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#55
dont tell em you run >135, let em find out on their own then chat you up on it.
#56
my inspector said this is what he wanted to see for mine, and he ran it by the HEAD NHRA Chassis guy in NC.this is for AWD CHASSIS, not for FWD. the AWD falls with RWD category for the trans tunnel. it was this or to 6x6 plates welded to the tunnel SIDES! i am not done yet, i am going to plate the tunnel top as extra, and tie the bar in front and rear.
Modified by corradogirlie at 4:18 PM 1-29-2010
#57
how are you guys bending these bars?
#58
i take my tubing to the local race car builder shop (Vanderbeck Race Cars), and pay them to bend what i require. its cheap. they bent me the tunnel cross bar, and i also got 8 ft of 1-1/4" tubing (meeting NHRA spec) for a total of $50 and my new 2010 rulebook. he was shocked i had the book, as he was under the impression you had to only access it online.... told him i paid $10 plus ship, and take $10 off the total we good he can have the book.the copes, i have the ghetto-fab tubing notcher setup, in the pic up somewhere....
and one thing i noticed in the rulebook (i already got the replacement, BTW) is that the General Regs Roll Cage section now has 7.50 pictures, and even quicker setups pictured.... thought there was alot of work to go 8.50 and slower (which is most all of us LOL) try the next level..... holy SH!T!
#59
stuwart sprung for the eastwood tubing notcher and i made fun of him when he got it because of the cost . But jesus, it worked awesome and was worth the money
#60
mine was i think $65 or something retardedly cheap.....
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#61
his looked just like that but i think it was 175$
#62
well then lets not tell him he took it in the shorts, shall we?
#63
no I think he will want to know about any poke in the shorts
#64
but he did buy it almost 2 years ago when we put the cage in his car
#65
we use a 150k dollar mandrel bender to bend our roll cage tubing![]()
but we also have this http://www.pro-tools.com/105.htm
and our notcher is one from JMR http://www.vansantent.com/tube...0.htm
both are supposed to be some of the best you can buy![]()
K&H fabrication...find us on Facebook! www.facebook.com/khfabrication!
back in the game...but RWD and skidracin
13.24@102 all motor stock motor 12v VR6...bolt on's only
#66
i just printed this whole thread. lolchuck full of good info!!
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i'll be trying to do my own 10 point, chute bracket and windownet in-house. I'll need a lotttt of pointers and help. lolthis cage hasss to cert. lol
#67
Pootie.... do it with two 6x6 plates to the rockers and the cross bar FIRST. and put the hoop on TOP of the bar.at least that is the way the guys over on H-T are recommending, for new installations. i saw your new chassis has a cage already? or you get ANOTHER car?
#68
Quote, originally posted by corradogirlie » Pootie.... do it with two 6x6 plates to the rockers and the cross bar FIRST. and put the hoop on TOP of the bar. at least that is the way the guys over on H-T are recommending, for new installations. i saw your new chassis has a cage already? or you get ANOTHER car?
Yea, thats what i get for being lazy. lol
I hadn't seen the car with the 10 point . When i finally did there were a few parts of the cage that would not allow it to be cert. For starters the halo was about 3" away from the roof, and the 2 front down bars that goes through the dash were also far from the chassis (well on the passanger side anyway).The kid was kool about it and the trade for my shell was off. I just got a 98 Integra and i'll be caging that. I don't have a bender so i ordered a Cromoly 10 point from Kens Kustoms(comes notched and with 6 x 6" plates) and i'll have Miller @ NRG Tech do the chute bracket once i can produce the MPH (he runs the bracket on the factory rear bumper support location) Should be a EZ add-on.
Modified by Mr.pootie at 7:53 PM 1-30-2010
#69
and cage is finished. final welded out. added the plate to the tunnel, tied it in. this car will be stiff as a MOFO....
#70
The cage looks good and I'm glad to see that your TIG is being used.![]()
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