3.2 VR6 OEM+ intake manifold project.

[PowerDubs]

Found links and read up on it. Bigger runners and plenum, go figure.

So tonight I tried plastic welding some scrap pieces of manifold together. It didn't go real well. Tomorrow I will go find some sort of plastic epoxy instead, as I don't want this sucker falling apart..

[Nemesis-Brad]

Instead of plastic welding it try taking the manifold to a shop that handles ski base repair , they have a neat gun hat fuses melting plastic into cracks . You could "tak" the manifold cover in a few places then fuse in the melted plastic into the larger areas and then sand and finish .

Pic of P-tex extruding gun

[PowerDubs]

Quote, originally posted by Nemesis-Brad »

Instead of plastic welding ....fuses melting plastic into cracks .

Plastic welding *is* fusing melting plastic into cracks.

There are numerous different kinds of plastic, some this procedure works very well on, some it doesn't work at all. Ours didn't like the process.

[newcreation]

maybe try plastic epoxy u can sand and paint just don't know how strong it is

[Nemesis-Brad]

Quote, originally posted by PowerDubs »

Plastic welding *is* fusing melting plastic into cracks. There are numerous different kinds of plastic, some this procedure works very well on, some it doesn't work at all. Ours didn't like the process.

Well yea

I was suggesting the Ptex extruder as it might fill the gabs a bit better and this stuff sticks to anything , and VERY hard to remove .
Just thought you might have better luck with this type of system instead of the one you were using .

[newcreation]

Yea he was just a cheapo style plastic welder anyhow he said.I know each type of plastic needs a certain amount of heat and the right type of plastic to join them as well.The type i have been looking at join the two together and adds in filler.Temps can reach 1000 degrees cause certain thick hard plastic need alot of heat to make the process go quick and fast to get it to fuse together i have done alot of plastic bumpers with a cheapo but the plastic is also different

[benny_mech]

A lot of the auto body guys swear by this stuff:

Fusor

[Det. John Kimble]

Quote, originally posted by benny_mech »

A lot of the auto body guys swear by this stuff: Fusor

I have used that a few times on projects and it works perfect, but then again it was on bumpers and a grill so the plastic may be a little different but it is well worth a try

[fourthchirpin]

lol

[RipCity Euros]

Duct tape, if it can hold boostz, then it should be able to hold non-boostz

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mxdzqETBPBY

[Robthirtytwo]

thats just ghetto deff no josh style lol

[R32_alex]

Quote, originally posted by Robthirtytwo »

thats just ghetto deff no josh style lol

Word. MacGyver style might be ok though.

I was going to say you can take Josh out of the ghetto but you can't take the ghetto out of Josh.

But Josh flat out isn't ghetto as witnessed in his modifications. If anything its gonna be like double TIG plastic welded to the sixth power... If that doesn't exist he will make it exist all for the sake of 24v R32 manifolds.

Looking foward for the possible bottleneck fix.

[PowerDubs]

Oh..this very well may be ghetto..and won't be pretty. Initially..

This is just for a proof of concept. If I can get any sort of gains from playing with the stock manifold, it will justify moving forward with spending thousands on a non-ghetto custom made aluminum one.

[R32Freddie]

Quote, originally posted by PowerDubs »

Oh..this very well may be ghetto..and won't be pretty. Initially.. This is just for a proof of concept. If I can get any sort of gains from playing with the stock manifold, it will justify moving forward with spending thousands on a non-ghetto custom made aluminum one.

Do you think it`ll be better then the hpa one?

[PowerDubs]

Think about what you just said.. *sigh*

[R32_alex]

The HPA manifold lost a significant amount of power down low.

[R32Freddie]

Quote, originally posted by R32_alex »

The HPA manifold lost a significant amount of power down low.

I had no idea, im a newbe hardcore.

[R32Freddie]

Quote, originally posted by PowerDubs »

Think about what you just said.. *sigh*

Give me a break this is all new to me.

I still wish you all the best with this

[RipCity Euros]

You could stuff rocks in an OEM intake and still get better results than HPA

[Draxus]

Is there any gains up top from the HPA? Or is it all just meh?

[PowerDubs]

From my first post, first page-

Quote, originally posted by PowerDubs »

Lets try to keep the thread on that topic. I do not want a short runner nor the CVP.

There is plenty of posts on the CVP that you can see it's 'results'. I don't want to derail this thread.

[hammeredGLI]

Quote, originally posted by Slampig »

watching this.

iam in

[need_a_VR6]

The ONE guy (killacoupe) that runs a car with a CVP is having good track results and a pretty high dyno for a stock 2.8 block. Something is working, just don't expect 'mad torques'

[ElTacoGallo]

Quote, originally posted by need_a_VR6 »

The ONE guy (killacoupe) that runs a car with a CVP is having good track results and a pretty high dyno for a stock 2.8 block. Something is working, just don't expect 'mad torques'

pics or it didn't happen

[fourthchirpin]

Quote, originally posted by ElTacoGallo »

pics or it didn't happen

how about a video

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oCLF8Ep4WcA

and yes I have seen the CVP on his car.

but like Josh said lets keep the CVP talk to a min.

[R32Freddie]

Quote, originally posted by PowerDubs »

From my first post, first page- There is plenty of posts on the CVP that you can see it's 'results'. I don't want to derail this thread.

x2 i did my research after this was said. Go search the cvp does suck for what it is.

[newcreation]

Anyone know what type of plastic the oem R manifold is made of.I have been looking on the back of mine for the letter to see but mine just has the oem vw part number.

[PowerDubs]

Smelly plastic.. definitely made of smelly plastic!!

At least when combined with a dremel for hours at a time.

[PowerDubs]

Ok.. couple more pics and I think I will try to put it back together tonight since we are going to get a snowstorm.

First up.. just to make sure it wasn't just this 1 manifold that had the rod misalignment, I cut open another spare manifold I had lying around from the bottom looking up into the changeover rod.

Sure enough, the rod is not where it should be just like the other manifold. How VW let this slip through the cracks, I do not know. But I know that even something as simple as these lips can cause enough turbulence to slow things down when the air is trying to come through at high revs.

Because this is not aligned properly each runner has 4 lips disturbing the flow.. 2 on the way down and 2 on the way up = a mess.

Thanks to a fellow vortexer on here who measured his own and made me a spacer and mailed it to me!!

I haven't test fit it yet, but will tonight.

Next up.. since I was hitting this thing with the dremel anyway, I decided to remove the lip that protrudes inside the upper plenum from the star shaped block off plug that our car does not need. It sits right behind the TB and is another small thing that disrupts airflow. I will seal up the hole from the outside when I put the rest back together.

Here is what I am talking about (cut open / off another manifold for a clear shot)

And finally...since I am going to plug up that hole, I ground down the tabs that hold the block-off plug in..and while I was at it, I removed the filler webbing between the upper runners. (just for fun)

[newcreation]

sweet i did mine as well

[BSD]

Why not just get a short runner?

Lol, i'm kidding. Nice work so far.

Steve-

[VR6ix]

Quote, originally posted by newcreation »

Anyone know what type of plastic the oem R manifold is made of.I have been looking on the back of mine for the letter to see but mine just has the oem vw part number.

the 12-valve version is stamped PA-66 GF-35: Polyamide (Nylon) 66 with 35% glass filler

if the 24/R32 manifolds use the same material, you'd need a nylon-friendly epoxy to stick 'er together.

[TBT-Syncro]

Quote, originally posted by Nemesis-Brad »

Instead of plastic welding it try taking the manifold to a shop that handles ski base repair , they have a neat gun hat fuses melting plastic into cracks . You could "tak" the manifold cover in a few places then fuse in the melted plastic into the larger areas and then sand and finish .

Ptex is way too soft. ( I used to do national warranty and repair work for several ski and snowboard manufacturers)

[TBT-Syncro]

Quote, originally posted by VR6ix »

the 12-valve version is stamped PA-66 GF-35: Polyamide (Nylon) 66 with 35% glass filler if the 24/R32 manifolds use the same material, you'd need a nylon-friendly epoxy to stick 'er together.

I'd suggest something from Ciba-Geigy. they make the best bonding adhesives.

[PowerDubs]

I'm using a combination of QuikSteel 'plastic repair' epoxy putty and Permatex 'plastic weld'.