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    Thread: MK1 ABA swap, A1 ABA swap, Rabbit ABA swap, Rabbit 2.0 swap, 2.0 into A1, 2.0 into MK1, info thread

    1. Member
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      07-28-2010 01:45 PM #101
      Quote Originally Posted by saddest6day66 View Post
      After someone mentioned that they had used a stock dual downpipe/manifold on a aba swap... I decided to test fit mine.. seems it may possibly work. Here are some pics I took from a quick test fit this morning..

      I don't think if you left the stock triangle flange that it would clear... but I planned to cut that off and weld a flex joint/straight pipe to it anyways.. so it very well may work! Otherwise, adding a slip joint there or a ball-socket joint instead very well may allow it to fit. I tried to capture how it sat on the head in some pics below.. hopefully gives everyone a idea..
      I never tried the stock dual dp setup, but I did try my 8v 4-1 header. It fit, but would hit the rack on hard accel/decel, even with some clearancing work and new mounts. Ended up with the AEG manifold, and hacked off piece of rocco DP, with a custom 2-1 collector pipe. $80 into a nice budget 4-2-1 header, and I can put my upstream 02 in the manifold. Speaking of, I have a brand new BFI spacer I'd sell...




    2. Member kap0ne's Avatar
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      07-28-2010 01:58 PM #102
      Quote Originally Posted by A1steaksauce View Post
      if you are going to turbo it you need a completely different exhaust manifold and then neither the TT manifold/dp or the stock dual outlet will be used.

      as i stated before, the stock dual outlet is smaller than a stock MK3 setup (combined with the TT downpipe). would you notice any difference with a completely stock motor? no, probably not. but if you started getting into head work, cam, chip, etc... then yes you would notice a difference if you were retaining the smaller setup.
      sorry i knew you needed a turbo manifold , i was just typing without thinking, i have a mildly built 1.8T

      thanks for the info
      ..../=========\ ....
      (]/______________\[)
      ./(O8o)====(o8O)\
      |\====------====/|
      |__|====-====|__|2012 Golf R , 2012 VW EOS Lux. Package, 1996 Cabrio 2.slow 5 spd.

    3. Member POKTROKT's Avatar
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      08-12-2010 01:19 PM #103
      Someone mentioned the belt tensioner, not sure if they meant the timing belt tensioner but I have a question about the accessory belt tensioner.

      I’m swapping an ABA from a MK1 into another MK1 and it looks like the previous owner pounded the side of the passenger side frame rail to clear the accessory belt tensioner (I’ll post pics later), is there a way around this? I don’t want to pound my new MK1 with a hammer.

    4. Member kap0ne's Avatar
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      08-12-2010 08:50 PM #104
      do we use the fuel box set up under the right rear of the car as it sits there stock(83 gti)
      ..../=========\ ....
      (]/______________\[)
      ./(O8o)====(o8O)\
      |\====------====/|
      |__|====-====|__|2012 Golf R , 2012 VW EOS Lux. Package, 1996 Cabrio 2.slow 5 spd.

    5. Member POKTROKT's Avatar
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      08-12-2010 10:01 PM #105
      Quote Originally Posted by A1steaksauce View Post
      there is no need to pound or clearance anything on this swap (save for the exhaust).

      if you install everything and find you are a bit close to the rail simply loosen up the motor mounts and shift the motor over....i've had to do this in the past on my other swaps and most recently on my 80'

      there is no need to pound in a frame rail for clearance, it's not necessary.
      Thanks!

    6. Member rabbitarmy's Avatar
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      08-12-2010 10:53 PM #106
      Feel free to remove the fuel accumulator if you wish. Does nothing for you on EFI.

    7. Member rabbitarmy's Avatar
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      08-21-2010 07:37 PM #107
      Mine came out because I had a lot of crap in the tank & wanted to make sure I wasn't adding to the problem with the original accumulator.


      I remember a discussion in another thread where the consensus was that it wouldn't make a difference on EFI.

      I saw something on page three about protecting the pump from backlash... Whats that?

    8. 08-27-2010 03:35 PM #108
      In my 85 cabby I went with the 9A 16v rocco set up converting the whole car to ce2 wiring,
      with ac delete and power steering delete converting to a serpentine belt


    9. Member VW KEVIN G's Avatar
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      08-28-2010 05:59 PM #109
      What should/could be done with the carbon canister and fuel expansion tank? I have the original parts from the MK1 and the MK3 parts. I'm trying to keep the bay as clean as possible and still keep the emissions from the ABA working.

    10. Member VW KEVIN G's Avatar
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      08-29-2010 10:36 AM #110
      Yes, that is what I was refering to. So the MK3 carbon canister can replace the MK1 canister and also the expansion tank?
      And thank you for the great info here.

    11. Banned GEE-BEE's Avatar
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      08-29-2010 11:07 AM #111
      Part number for coolant hose 037122058 ( three way hose )

      Water pipe to oil cooler and water pump

      This hose is avaiable in a one piece silicone design, not three piece with a plastic t
      5 ply

      Colors: Black,Blue,Red ,Yellow




      Email me for pictures
      N77GBMSN.COM

    12. Member 8vlove12's Avatar
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      08-30-2010 08:11 PM #112
      is it pretty much the same thing when swaping a G60. asking bacause i have plans to put one in my westy soon.

    13. Banned vento86's Avatar
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      08-30-2010 08:22 PM #113
      i didnt read anywhere about the exhaust header... could someone list the specs and what you can and cant use

    14. Member BladesNet's Avatar
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      08-30-2010 09:02 PM #114
      Quote Originally Posted by vento86 View Post
      i didnt read anywhere about the exhaust header... could someone list the specs and what you can and cant use
      Those are confirmed by me. People can add to this list

      Does not fit:

      Autotech Tri-Y in Cab w/ ABA and PS (confirmed by Blades)

      Does Fit:

      Bosal Brospeed 999-779 (no cat model) in Cab w/ ABA and PS (confirmed by Blades)
      Bosal Brospeed 999-774 (cat model) in Cab w/ ABA and PS (confirmed by Blades)



      Also works:

      OEM mk1 4-1 with an extra 3/4" welded on the DP.
      OEM mk1 4-2-1 with a spacer between the 4-2 and 2-1.


    15. Member tonythayer's Avatar
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      08-31-2010 04:47 PM #115
      I'm attempting the toilet bowl setup on mine, but only because I'm too cheap to fork out for decent exhaust right now. It'll probably help me preserve the old diesel clutch, too.
      Last edited by tonythayer; 08-31-2010 at 05:24 PM. Reason: being dumb

    16. 09-09-2010 11:15 PM #116
      alright i have every thing hooked up im doing the option 3 the only thing that happens when i turn the the key over is the fuel pump primes and my coil pack makes a click and nothing else. so what did i dew wrong .

    17. 09-10-2010 02:28 AM #117
      well i have it bypassed and it still does the the same thing so?

    18. Senior Member IronTrap's Avatar
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      09-10-2010 09:22 AM #118
      Quote Originally Posted by A1steaksauce View Post
      If you have the red plug tapped into you ignition harness like it states for your starter and you have also bypassed the alarm as well then it's time to start diag'ing....see if you have power at the starter selonid when you're attempting to turn it over.
      X2. Also check to make sure you have all of your grounds in the engine bay and to the Mk3 fusebox hooked up 100%. Possibly add an additional ground strap from body to trans. I had a similar issue where the starter would act funny like that and it turned out I need to clean up my grounds and add one from the body to the trans.

    19. 09-10-2010 03:27 PM #119
      ok im going to check all that plus im going to check my relays to, so ill see how it goes .

    20. Member NEPAVR6's Avatar
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      09-11-2010 06:44 PM #120
      Im doing the ABA swap from a 98 Jetta GT into a 83 rabbit gti. Im having trouble mounting the drivers side mount onto the ABA motor. I cant seem to see where to bolt it up.
      Also im removing the AC and power steering. Now i dont know what belt to run. From crank to starter and then crank to water pump. Is there a way to convert these into one belt?
      I also flipped the throttle body on the ABA. Will the throttle wire still hook up without any binding?
      As for the tranny i was wondering how to remove the flanges from the MK1 trans and putting them onto the MK3. Is it a simple bolt up or is there a special tool involved? And the linkage should all fit right onto the MK3 trans?
      Thanks

    21. Member tonythayer's Avatar
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      09-12-2010 12:05 AM #121
      Quote Originally Posted by NEPAVR6 View Post
      Im doing the ABA swap from a 98 Jetta GT into a 83 rabbit gti. Im having trouble mounting the drivers side mount onto the ABA motor. I cant seem to see where to bolt it up.
      Also im removing the AC and power steering. Now i dont know what belt to run. From crank to starter and then crank to water pump. Is there a way to convert these into one belt?
      I also flipped the throttle body on the ABA. Will the throttle wire still hook up without any binding?
      As for the tranny i was wondering how to remove the flanges from the MK1 trans and putting them onto the MK3. Is it a simple bolt up or is there a special tool involved? And the linkage should all fit right onto the MK3 trans?
      Thanks
      FYI, the driver's side mount attaches to the top of the transmission using 4 bolts.

    22. Member tonythayer's Avatar
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      09-12-2010 12:36 AM #122
      Quote Originally Posted by A1steaksauce View Post
      only if it's a four speed.

      five speed transmissions use only two bolts for the mount assembly to attach to the trans
      Good to know!

    23. Member tonythayer's Avatar
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      09-12-2010 03:11 PM #123
      I'm stuck at the exhaust phase at the moment. I don't see anything in the OP regarding oxygen sensor placement. Since my engine is ODBII, I will need to have two sensors in place, both pre and post cat. I already had my exhaust extended to match the block and had a single O2 bung put in place, but it looks like I will need a second one.

      A1Steak: Have you run into this yet?

    24. Senior Member IronTrap's Avatar
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      09-12-2010 03:26 PM #124
      Quote Originally Posted by tonythayer View Post
      I'm stuck at the exhaust phase at the moment. I don't see anything in the OP regarding oxygen sensor placement. Since my engine is ODBII, I will need to have two sensors in place, both pre and post cat. I already had my exhaust extended to match the block and had a single O2 bung put in place, but it looks like I will need a second one.

      A1Steak: Have you run into this yet?
      you can either run without one which will make a check engine light come on.. (car should still run ok for the most part), have a chip burnt that deletes the rear O2, or you can just have the shop weld another bung in place so you can mount a 2nd O2 sensor..

    25. Member tonythayer's Avatar
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      09-12-2010 03:29 PM #125
      Quote Originally Posted by saddest6day66 View Post
      you can either run without one which will make a check engine light come on.. (car should still run ok for the most part), have a chip burnt that deletes the rear O2, or you can just have the shop weld another bung in place so you can mount a 2nd O2 sensor..
      I'm probably just going to go the 2nd O2 route. Installing the bung is cheap, even if the sensors are not. Emissions in Multnomah County in Oregon are pretty stringent and I want this car to give me as little hassle as possible.

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