I used the rabbit fuse box and wired in the aba engine wiring harness. We never hooked up the speed sensor because it didnt seem to affect the performance at all. the mk3 speed sensor runs off the tac and i was running the rabbit speedo yet so didnt really have a place for it.
Later on found out that in 4th and 5th gear above 5000 rpm it would cut out. We just put the speed sensor wire to a good common ground and it seemed to fix it.
I keep finding myself making rookie mistakes that I have to go back and correct (like having to take the transmission off about 8 times before finally installing the lump in the engine bay). I just know my wiring is going to bite me in the ass in the same way. I think I cut the harness connections for the O2 sensors when I pulled it from the Mk3 at the junkyard.
I've updated my ABA transplant thread with some pictures of how I routed my coolant lines off the radiator. My original hoses were in top shape so I just cut them apart and reused them in sections:
I'm experiencing some confusion regarding the wires coming off of the starter. As I understand it, the wires from the starter will get patched into (but not cut and re-routed) and the patch will go to plug H1 for the new harness. The starter bypass doesn't make much sense to me when I look at my harness, either. Here are some photos for illustration. The color is a little off, but you get the gist:
I would appreciate any help that can be offered. I'm very very close to finally seeing this thing moving again.
A1SteakSauce: Any tips on fueling using the diesel lines? I went and looked at an 88 caddy yesterday and got the pump mounting bracket and got some pictures of the setup (which is probably wrong as it looks like it uses an in-tank pickup). What did you end up doing to install the inline pump down under the body?
I am going to mock something up and see where best to install this stuff. I'm probably going to end up putting a fuel filter directly between the pump and the tank to save myself the problem of burning through expensive items. Not sure if it's necessary to put another filter after the pump.
Ahhh... Zip-ties would probably be way easier. The only rusty cars I see up here are old American cars. The only cars you can't salvage much off of are fire victims. I saw a pretty sweet MG convertible a couple of months ago that had been gutted. Lucas Electrics!
I finally was able to follow the wiring instructions, and it actually seemed to be easier to follow without the pictures. Forced me to read what was written
I'm not sure what is up with my harness, but from all appearances it looks like I actually got another automatic harness. I took the F plug off a manual car at the junkyard yesterday and just spliced in the wiring to match it up with the existing harness and then took the solid red wire to the starter wire. The part in the second picture I posted, where I asked "Starter Bypass goes here, right?" is actually a fuse connection. I stuck a 25A in there, but I should probably find a 30A to make things 100%. I need to plumb up some compression fittings for the fuel lines before I proceed with anything else, but the first time I hear that fuel pump kick in will be great.
Thanks for the awesome instructions, A1.
Thanks for the guidance, A1. After finding a loose Red/Blue wire that needed to be plugged into the fuse block and covering the open holes in my intake, the car fired up on the first try. I'm looking forward to meeting you when you head up to the PNW. I'll get you a
I have a problem. my car was running great and everything was good . till couple days ago my car started to studier when i was driving it, so it was like wanting to die as soon as i gave it gas but if i let go of the gas it would idle fin but then as soon as i down shifted it would die then it would back fire and start back up. so i replaced ignition coil plug wires and it still does it. So today i check my starter relay and my ignition switch and there good so when i started it up it starts right up but as soon as i give it gas it wants kill and some times when i start it up it will start right up but then die right away so what could this be?
so i went to go check my timing and this is what i found out, i went to get my distributor on the number one cylinder then i realized that the rotor could spin freely. so i guess that the thing that slide in to that groove of the bottom of the distributor shaft well it spin freely in side the block.