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    Thread: MK1 ABA swap, A1 ABA swap, Rabbit ABA swap, Rabbit 2.0 swap, 2.0 into A1, 2.0 into MK1, info thread

    1. Member slavik19's Avatar
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      05-21-2010 11:47 PM #51
      thank you very much

    2. Member slavik19's Avatar
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      05-22-2010 12:06 AM #52
      hey if i do a aba swap.
      all i have to do is swap the bottom ends and the swaping belt and cut down the distributor and thts it?

    3. Member MC68's Avatar
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      05-23-2010 12:56 AM #53
      saved for next project

    4. Member hans j's Avatar
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      05-23-2010 03:52 PM #54
      Nice write up and I still don't have any issues with no VSS. Going to try a new speedo cluster soon with the MFA signal but not sure if it will work.

      Unless the ECU is looking just for a peak in voltage it might work because the instrument cluster in an inductive signal and the Mk3 sender is a hall effect.

      Now the shop is all painted and I can get settled in more, I can sit down and work on it some more.

    5. Banned WCHLVR's Avatar
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      05-23-2010 03:55 PM #55
      Gonna need to do this soon. Subscribed

    6. Member kap0ne's Avatar
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      05-24-2010 03:18 PM #56
      i started pulling my motor from a 97 jetta yesturday but what do the parst on the inside of the fenders do ?, i unhooked a vacuum line from the driver side one


      and the hoses that go to the heater core , what do you do with those block them off or run a U so they go back into them selves
      ..../=========\ ....
      (]/______________\[)
      ./(O8o)====(o8O)\
      |\====------====/|
      |__|====-====|__|2012 Golf R , 2012 VW EOS Lux. Package, 1996 Cabrio 2.slow 5 spd.

    7. Member kap0ne's Avatar
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      05-24-2010 08:22 PM #57
      i started pulling my motor from a 97 jetta yesturday but what do the parst on the inside of the fenders do ?, i unhooked a vacuum line from the driver side one

      vacuum canister and charcoal canister. you don't need the vacuum one (unless you're a newer model with vacuum activated evap controls) but you would be wise to install the charcoal canister. you should have a routing diagram under the hood of the donor car, and if not there it will be located in the bentley


      and the hoses that go to the heater core , what do you do with those block them off or run a U so they go back into them selves

      you hook them up to the coolant lines off the heater core if you want heat. otherwise you simply loop them back together

      thanks , i'm going to pull the other axle tomorrow and then the dash and prob pull motor this week
      ..../=========\ ....
      (]/______________\[)
      ./(O8o)====(o8O)\
      |\====------====/|
      |__|====-====|__|2012 Golf R , 2012 VW EOS Lux. Package, 1996 Cabrio 2.slow 5 spd.

    8. Member
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      06-01-2010 09:57 PM #58
      To add a little bit here-

      I wired complete OBD-2 sans emissions into my 82 Caddy (not the piggyback method described here, but direct - this is VERY easy, most of the wiring needed to make it run go right to the black 10 pin connector)

      Alternator field wire goes to the blue 10 pin connector, pin 7 (the wire is also blue - I used an alternator harness from a 97 Passat VR6, that wire was also blue).

      Mine is actually running and driveable now, but I gotta wire up a few more signal/gauge wires. I'll throw that info up whenever I get around to actually doing it.

      Complete ABA OBD2 with AEG intake/exhaust mani's - runs like a dream. I just gotta wire in a DLC, temp gauge, tach, and get a custom exhaust made up and she'll be on the road again.

      older pic:



      Thanks for the post A1SS, some good info here.
      Last edited by veedubtek; 06-02-2010 at 08:41 PM.

    9. 06-02-2010 03:04 PM #59
      Is there any reason to keep the fuel accumulator with an ABA swap?

    10. 06-03-2010 04:36 PM #60
      That's what I expected, considering its sole purpose is to maintain pressure during down time. Any idea how this is accomplished in the MKIII? I know my MKV primes the system when the drivers side door is opened. I'm just wondering if there is a better solution, I've only seen a fuel accumulator on K-series fuel injection vehicles.

    11. 06-03-2010 06:35 PM #61
      Ahhh, well I suppose the accumulator will stay then. Thanks for the input!

    12. Member BladesNet's Avatar
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      06-04-2010 02:06 PM #62
      You had to remove some hood reinforcement material ?

      Just curious !

      Quote Originally Posted by veedubtek View Post
      To add a little bit here-

      I wired complete OBD-2 sans emissions into my 82 Caddy (not the piggyback method described here, but direct - this is VERY easy, most of the wiring needed to make it run go right to the black 10 pin connector)

      Alternator field wire goes to the blue 10 pin connector, pin 7 (the wire is also blue - I used an alternator harness from a 97 Passat VR6, that wire was also blue).

      Mine is actually running and driveable now, but I gotta wire up a few more signal/gauge wires. I'll throw that info up whenever I get around to actually doing it.

      Complete ABA OBD2 with AEG intake/exhaust mani's - runs like a dream. I just gotta wire in a DLC, temp gauge, tach, and get a custom exhaust made up and she'll be on the road again.

      older pic:



      Thanks for the post A1SS, some good info here.

    13. 06-15-2010 01:36 AM #63
      EXCELLENT thread! Thank you very much for compiling all of the info in here. I am about to begin an obd2 swap into my gf's 92 cabrio and this has helped out immensely!

      Didn't even know about the BFI downpipe spacer. What an awesome idea/product.

      Veedubtek, how does the motor run w/o the emissions controls? Which coilpack did you use? The later model intake manifold looks great.

    14. Member
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      06-17-2010 08:15 PM #64
      Quote Originally Posted by illi View Post
      EXCELLENT thread! Thank you very much for compiling all of the info in here. I am about to begin an obd2 swap into my gf's 92 cabrio and this has helped out immensely!

      Didn't even know about the BFI downpipe spacer. What an awesome idea/product.

      Veedubtek, how does the motor run w/o the emissions controls? Which coilpack did you use? The later model intake manifold looks great.
      Motor runs very well. Even in mostly stock form, it's better than my 1.8 ever was (and it was built!). All the management is ABA (coil included). I'm running a BEV upper/lower intake mani (which does barely hit the hood, you can see the mark on the #1 intake runner in the pic....kept ABA injectors and rail, but had to space them off a bit), AEG exhaust mani, and custom downpipe off of that.

      As for the tensioner bolt clearance issue, I loosened my mounts and couldn't quite get enough room to make me comfortable. I bought a new bolt and shaved the head of it in half, and have more than enough room now.

      Coolant hoses are a mix of stock mk1, and advanced auto specials cut-down to fit. No oil cooler. B3 VR6 throttle cable. It's soooooo nice to be able to bump the key, fire right up, idle perfectly, and not have any driveability issues...and have zero worries about anything acting up. (not to mention keeping all the mk1 electrical system/cluster/dash/etc... intact, and still having everything work.)

    15. Member berg cup's Avatar
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      06-17-2010 10:05 PM #65
      [IMG][/IMG]

      this thread and some others helped me do this, and wow this harness doesnt weigh as mush as it did when i started. Motor with be put in this coming week.
      HAVE HEART

    16. 06-21-2010 09:37 PM #66
      so when i do the two fuse boxes. do i splice the a1 harness in to the aba harness

    17. Member Cynical 1's Avatar
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      06-23-2010 09:35 AM #67
      one dumb question for you A1-

      i am doing the piggyback method with the aba fuse block to just run the engine.

      power in run and start is the black wire, power during start is the red/black wire, both from the ignition switch. is that the only connection to power the fuse box i need? or do i need to supply battery power and ground from the large red and brown wire in the lower corners of the fuse block? unclear on that... just thinking the box needs a ground source...

      thanks.

    18. Member Cynical 1's Avatar
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      06-23-2010 10:58 AM #68
      thanks for the clarification.

      looking forward to the update.

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      06-23-2010 10:30 PM #69
      Quote Originally Posted by A1steaksauce View Post
      i do, because it doesn't hurt anything.

      however on one diesel rabbit i aba swapped i didn't bother using it. the only issue(s) i would have is upon start up. if i drove it just about every day it didn't take that long cranking to build up pressure to start the motor....however if i let the car sit a week or so i'd either have to crank alittle bit, or just cycle the key a couple of times. but absolutely no running issues whatsoever without it
      The fuel accumulator not only maintains system pressure for the reason(s) you mentioned, but it also protects the fuel pump from backlash. It is an important part of the fuel delivery system and should be kept in if at all possible....

    20. Member Cynical 1's Avatar
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      06-24-2010 08:26 AM #70
      A1-

      so to clarify, the ONLY power and ground are:
      red/black and black from ignition switch
      red battery power
      brown ground

      any more power or ground anywhere in the box?

      thanks.

    21. Member Cynical 1's Avatar
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      06-25-2010 07:39 AM #71
      thanks.

      last question -

      having an issue with the car not starting. using an automatic wire harness from the fuse block to the engine.

      coil is getting power and ground, but not switched ground to fire. also fuel pump is not running...

      could this plug need to be jumped to make it work, as in doing an auto to manual swap? seems like the park/neutral switch is not "engaged" and allowing the ecu to engage all needed to start...





      or this one by the firewall? i know the 2 wire is reverse light.



      or these? i'm guessing these are simply emissions related, as they are over by the maf.




      and yes, the fusebox is wired in as per your instructions.



      and i have one of these, just cannot find the info i need to save my life...




      thanks for the help. this car is just kicking my but, as it was a hacked up wiring harness that someone else did, and i had to re-wire...
      Last edited by Cynical 1; 06-25-2010 at 10:59 AM.

    22. 06-26-2010 01:43 AM #72
      all right another ? so if i do it the #2 way I just splice the rabbit harness into the new one with the list of wires you us in that diagram to show right

    23. Member Cynical 1's Avatar
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      06-26-2010 08:52 AM #73
      Quote Originally Posted by A1steaksauce View Post
      ok, what year is the rabbit? i mentioned previously that some rabbits have the fuel pump grounded while other years run the ground up to the fuse block. i'd double check that.

      honestly it sounds like you have it all hooked up per my instructions and quite possibly something is going on with the aba harness or quite possibly the ecu. you said the wiring was rather hacked so i'm curious if something got cut out or isn't hooked backup.

      i'll still get you photos and whatnot this evening to help you begin to run down the issue(s)


      damn shame i'm not in phatlanta anymore as i would simply just come over and assist right now it's be like an 8 hour drive for me

      you are correct in your guess - ecu was fried. bad chip job and all, coil driver was cooked....

      installed "tester" ecu, now it runs fabulously...

      wire harness was a "new" one, as the old one was so hacked and mangled...

      thanks for the help.




      and for the record, assist motorsport in ATL screwed this job up... had the car for 2 years and did not do it correctly... avoid at all costs.

    24. 07-04-2010 01:45 PM #74
      so when i do it the number 2 way what do i do with the rabbit fuse box with the extra wires in it.
      i suck at this wiring stuff?

    25. Member B166eR - VW's Avatar
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      07-05-2010 05:14 PM #75
      Very nice... I'm not sure how much of this I can use, since I plan to swap ALL wiring from a MK3, but, its motivating, at the very least.

      I plan on doing this into a MK1 Coupe that is void of all wiring. Can anyone think of any issues I may have swapping over everything? Should I use a MK1 dash or a MK3?

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