Ok.. since someone started a thread asking about doing this mod.. and I had everything I needed for the last year,
I figured I will finally get it done.
First Run the wire..
I used a thick speaker wire when I did my rear fog setup.. and left the other piece of wire to do this mod a year or so ago..
I would do the same If I was you, since you will have everything needed to have the reverse fogs hooked up.
Basically, run the wire from inside the car (behind the radio area) to the drivers A pillar, then go past the B and C pillars into the hatch.
You will have to take all the little trim pieces of the hatch to run the wire.
A coat hanger will come in handy.
You wanna make sure you go thru the rubber boot like this pic.
Here is what it looks like when the wire is thru...
and connected to the Reverse Fog.
You will find a nice place for your grounds inside the hatch.
On that pic you can see the vacum pump that "pushes" the little stick allowing you to open the hatch.
You'll undertand when you are there.
closer pics of the mechanism.
Basically.. you could push open the latch stick or you could open the key lock. is your call.
I decided to push the latch open and retain the factory vacum pump.
On another note.. this would also be a great time to remove the 3rd brake light and shave the letters and smoke it.
Then you need to go and get your popper..
there are basically 2 types on the mk3's
A puller and a pusher.. you need the pusher.
You will probably need these.
on to the install...
I mocked the popper on the driver side of the hatch.. using the mk3 "black plastic stick" to push the latch open....
now.. that black plastic stick has a snatch that fits the top of the latch.
So I put it on top and used a zip tie to get it together.
(make sure you dont tighten the zip tie too much. It needs to be kind of loose and the black plastic needs to allow the latch to move by itself)
then began making a bracket made out of cardboard.
After I had what I needed, I made one out of metal.
when it was tested and working fine..
I wrinkeled it..
Then I soldered and heat shrinked the in-line fuse that I was gonna use...
And soldered the rest to the Speaker wire on the car..
I used a 5amp fuse.. just to see if it pops it, but I really dont think so..
I rather pop a fuse than melt the wire.
pics of the setup already wired and in the car..
I used the grounding points for my ground.
Make sure to grease up (lithium grease) your black stick and zip tie so everything moves smoothy.
So far so good, no?????
Well not so easy....
When I finally closed everything and went to actually close the hatch
(not manually test it presing the latch in with a screwdriver)
the damn hatch would not close..
I was messing with it for a while and then I noticed that this part was the culprit.
Since the popper was just on top of it, I guess the bracket put a little pressure on it and would not let the spring compress all the way.
So... I took the bitch out.
Funny how years ago I made sure to buy it, never noticed much difference with it on.. and now that I take it out, it works best.
If I was to do this again.. I would redo the bracket to get a little better of an angle, since that spring wont be there.
I would mount the popper closer to the drivers side tail light and run a long mental stick all the way to the latch release.
Now on to the wiring of the switch.
To be continued.......