Alrighty then. I made some progress this week. Wednesday night I got the output shaft reassembled. Pictures:
Here's the 2nd gear synchro and 2nd gear slid back onto the shaft. The hub for 1st and 2nd stayed in place when I pulled everything off.
Since I don't have a shop press and all the inner race tools, I decided to take advantage of physics.... I heated up the inner race for the 3rd gear needle bearings and it slid right on. Thermal expansion FTW!
I did the same with all the other press fit parts, and the shaft was all back together!
So... onto today. I cleaned up all the gunk off the magnet in the bottom of the case. No pictures of that. I also finally got the throwout bearing sleeve out of the bellhousing portion of the trans case (gotta get that out to replace the input shaft seal).
Whoever last removed the three bolts that hold the sleeve in place chewed up the heads pretty good (small triple squares [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthdown.gif[/IMG]). I couldn't get my tool to bite, so it was starting to strip the heads of the bolts out even more. I tried some sockets that are designed for removing bolts with rounded-off heads, but that didn't work. I was about ready to drill into them and use easy outs, but I had another thought. I found that a 7/16" 12-point socket just BARELY didn't fit over the outside of the head of the bolts, so I got out the hammer and tapped the socket into place. The socket stretched just enough and dug into the bolt head just enough that I was able to break them loose. Of course, I had to tap the bolts back out of the socket but hey, it worked. Sorry, no pictures of that either.
Now for some pictures. I got the ring gear bolt kit (a.k.a. differential bolt kit) installed today! Step one, protect bearings and spider gears (I used tape). Step two, start drilling!
I started with a 1/8" bit and then progressively worked up to 1/2". I discovered after the first one, that you really didn't need a pilot hole since the ends of the rivets had nice dimples in them, I could just go at them with the 1/2" drill bit. You drill in about 7mm and if the end of the rivet doesn't just pop off and stick to the bit by then, then it's a simple matter of tapping the heads off with a small chisel and ball peen hammer. Here's the 1/2" bit:
After drilling the heads off, you beat them out with a drift and a hammer. I ended up using a 6-lb sledgehammer. You probably don't really need to use one of those, but it made pretty quick work of getting the rivets out. Here they all are:
Here's the diff and ring gear with all the rivets out. Now time to clean it up really good so no metal shavings get into anything vital.
Here's the cleaned up unit with the bolts pressed in. The bolt doesn't have a hex head or anything. It's a shouldered bolt with serrations that gets pressed into the differential housing. I didn't get a picture of that, but I'll get one that shows the round heads when I reassemble the tranny. Anyway, I tried using a small little shop press that I borrowed and it didn't work out so hot, so I ended up gently tapping the bolts in with a hammer.
Finally, here are the nuts installed on the bolts. That gray goop is the assembly lube that comes with the ARP bolt kit.
And now it's time to start reassembling the transmission. Woohoo!!!