TECH: MK4 2.0 Crank Position Sensor P0322

[Jay-Bee]

So i've seen a fair amount of threads on this issue. There is a small DIY in the MK4 forum, but i'm getting something in our forum for the cool cats who search

Issues I experienced:
Car won't start after shutting it off for a couple minutes at full temp, have to let it cool down anywhere from 5-20 minutes.
Coming up to a stop, pushing the clutch causes the engine to die.
Slight sputtering cruising at constant speed.

Also, after this happened a few times I got my Vag-Com hooked up, but it seems like if it happens and then you get it started and it drives fine for a day there is no code, must be a quick clearing code once it sees proper operation of the sensor.

Mine was crapping out bad and was dying and un-startable at any temperature near the end and was finally able to diagnose it to the sensor with vag-com.

My 2.0 was at 214,000kms when this happened.

Quote, originally posted by Ross-Tech Wiki »

16706/P0322/000802 - Engine Speed Sensor (G28): No Signal Possible Symptoms * Engine shuts off * Engine doesn't start * Speedometer inoperative * Glow Plug Indicator Lamp (K29) flashes Possible Causes * Engine Speed Sensor (G28) loose * Engine Speed Sensor (G28) faulty Possible Solutions * Check Engine Speed Sensor (G28) Special Notes * The Engine Speed Sensor (G28) is also used as a reference sensor for the crankshaft position.

Part required: 06A 906 433C Engine Speed sensor or Crank Position sensor

Tools required: 1x 5mm allen key/bit OR 9 or 10mm socket (if you really can't get the bit in the hole the bolt head is close to this size) a nice flashlight and some PB Blaster or other penetrating lube of your choice.

I have found them varying in price, take your pick from an online retailer (AutohausAZ, GermanAutoParts and others carry them cheap 50-70$) I found some on ebay, but they were clearly not genuine Bosch sensors, skip that, don't need this issue coming back.

I needed a fast fix as my car was no longer operational and I got it through my parts guy in town for 115$CA and had it next day, dealership in town quoted me 150$

This is a very easy job.

Many people commented on having to remove the oil filter, I run the "BigBoy" 1.8T filter which is huge and I never had to remove it luckily, but having it off will make for easier access.

The connection is right by the dipstick, it has a gray end. Get that unplugged and follow it down, the wire sits in 2 different plastic clips one connected to the dipstick, the other to the block, open those up and get the wire out.

The sensor itself is behind and slightly to the right of the oil filter. A 5 mm hex/allen bolt is holding it in. I blasted mine with some penetrating lube, since this is a pretty high "road grime" area it's a good idea, at first I could hardly get the bit in the hole, it was filled with dirt. let that sit for a couple mins and remove the bolt.

Now comes the tricky part, once the bolt is out the sensor feels loose and will spin no problem, but for the life of me I couldn't pry it out, tried a flat head screwdriver, big pliers and so on. What I ended up doing was using one of those "useless" little small hammers you get with some tool kits, got the nail pulling end up in there and cranked it out.

I then fingered the engine block hole (haha) and cleaned out all the gunk that was sitting in there, and cleaned the outer surface with a rag and some solvent, DONT SPRAY ANY IN THE HOLE, it leads directly into your crankcase.

Now replace the sensor, it's a little tight, i used some folded up cardboard against the sensor and lightly tapped it in with that little hammer.

Replace the 5mm bolt, not too tight, don't want to crush the plastic, not sure if there is an exact torque, but it's a plastic sensor, make sure it's nicely "tight".

Replace anything you might have removed for the job, engine cover, front end under panels if you even have them.

Start the car and enjoy.

[starface111]

Great post. I have had this problem twice. The first sensor lasted 190,000 miles. The second one only lasted about 3,000 miles. This time I am buying a better sensor from Autohaus.
The problem presents like a fuel pump gone bad. After about 10-15 minutes the car starts right up. Someone recommended cooling the sensor with water. That got the car started right away and every time.
I can't wait for my sensor to get here.

[vwhotrodder 2]

Good info to ad to the DIY/FAQS for sure.... Cheers

[911_fan]

Nice Jon.

[TMTuned99.5Golf]

Quote, originally posted by Jay-Bee »

Replace the 5mm bolt, not too tight, don't want to crush the plastic, not sure if there is an exact torque, but it's a plastic sensor, make sure it's nicely "tight".

If I'm not mistaken, I think that bolt torque is something like 11ft/lbs or something. Or just make it German tight.... "Guten Tight" haha

Great thread I must say

[2.0 Dubbin]

Thanks for the DIY, I just did this yesterday, a bit harder than I thought though. The damn clip was stuck in the bracket and it took a lot of time and patience getting it undone. When I pulled my sensor out it was pretty dirty, covered in oil and what not. I didn't have to remove my oil filter either, but the biggest pain in the ass was the clip removal. Thanks again and I will pray I never get that damn P0322 code again

[marine24]

Do you know the ohm range for testing the sensor to make sure it's bad before replacing? I'm looking at a neighbors so I want to make sure it's the problem before I tell him to buy a new one. I know for my vr6 it was something like 500-1000 ohms was good, below that was bad. It's on a 2002 jetta 2.0 (despite the fact that he's got a 2.0T badge on the back, can't find the turbo so I'm guessing someone just put the badge on there before they got it; I'm a Passat guy myself)

[Jay-Bee]

It might be in the Bentley manual, dont have access to it atm.

I was getting an intermittent "no signal" p0322 code with vag-com so i just went ahead and replaced it.

[marine24]

Will it be the same for the vr6 and 2.0 or do they use different sensors? Like I said I'm looking at a neighbors car, and they barely know where to put the gas in so the only Bently I have is for my B4 Passat

[Jay-Bee]

It's the same OBD code and the same sensor for many engines from 1998-2005 and on.

All the MK4 2.0s use the part number I listed.

From what I found in my searches the sensor is the same for all the applications, but the wire will be different lengths depending on the engine (1.8T/VR6)

[Eternity1]

I have a 2000 2.0 jetta and it was shutting off also when I would drive. Changed the crank sensor which is the same thing as engine speed sensor correct?? Well it worked perfect for 3 days and then it shut down on me again..

What else can be causing this??? Any advise would be helpful..

Thanks

[Moestradamus]

Did you test the outside pins or inside pair? which pins did u get that reading? I am trying to test my 95 2.0's Golf's Crank position sensor as well. Any info will help, cuz mine just wont start anymore.

Quote, originally posted by marine24 »

Do you know the ohm range for testing the sensor to make sure it's bad before replacing? I'm looking at a neighbors so I want to make sure it's the problem before I tell him to buy a new one. I know for my vr6 it was something like 500-1000 ohms was good, below that was bad. It's on a 2002 jetta 2.0 (despite the fact that he's got a 2.0T badge on the back, can't find the turbo so I'm guessing someone just put the badge on there before they got it; I'm a Passat guy myself)

[Moestradamus]

Did u ever figure this out?

I have additional symptoms on my post. Any help would be appreciated, Please see below:

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zer...57709

[Pastord]

I just completed the removal and installation of a Crank Position Sensor in my daughters 1998 VW New Beetle. It took about two hours -- I'm a total novice. The beetle would sometimes not start for no apparent reason and would cut out after 13 minutes running. I pulled the codes and had a p0322. If not for this post (with pictures!) I would have quickly quit.

I used a 10mm socket on a four inch extension. The trick is to feel where the bolt is. I have big hands and that job is not for the faint of heart. Just don't give up! After I took the bolt out ... just like the thread states the sensor would turn but not budge. With little room to work and no "little hammer" to stick up there I found a 8 inch nail puller crow bar and got it up there ... a little bit of effort and she popped out! The rest was easy after I got out from under the jacked up bug!

New sensor, check engine light went out and now she runs and starts like a champ. Just got back from a 45 minute drive! Thanks again!

[leftyog]

no seriously you freaking folks are awesome. last week battery light goes on. i go to autozone and the tell me battery is dead most be altenator so i replace right there in there parking lot. turn the car on car wont stay on for more then 5 mins so now they say its the battery so i charge the battery and restart the car to no avail. now they say its most be something in between some kind of voltage sensor. so i decided to return altenator realizing that if it is the so called "Voltage sensor" then it wasnt the altenator. so as i removed and replace the new for the old i charged the battery for over an hour a full charge. the car ran for 4 days on just battery power. needles to say it was the altenator i fixed it. :P

now this week holy s*#$ OMG the car kept shuting off at stop lights, Fed EX, the highway, the lawyers office each time i called AAA to tow and as they statred on there way i canceld because it would start after it cooled off. mind you i had my little girl with me most of the time i called AAA. Anyway after calling the VW Crack dealer they advised that i will have to pay 2 1/2 hours and $148.00 for the crank shaft sensor basically they wanted my A$$ and a leg.:banghead:

After reading your info here i was able to get the part from napa for $83.00 under military discount and twenty minutes later BAMMMMM. i been driving all day without it shuting off wepaaaaaaaa!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :beer::popcorn::laugh:

[hort22]

is this crank position sensor the same as an engine speed sensor.

i too am getting the P0322

[Jay-Bee]

is this crank position sensor the same as an engine speed sensor.

i too am getting the P0322

Yes it is.

[skip57]

TTT good post

[zlurg]

First, be sure to ignore the "one size fits all" sensors that are on the auction sites out there. They are NOT the same. One difference in particular is the depth of the magnet itself, which leads to the second caveat:

When you remove the black plastic sensor, take note if there's a thin aluminum spacer stuck to either the sensor or the block. There's no aluminum in the sensor, so if you see some, it's the adaptor/spacer, so check to see if you need it.

Regarding the above two caveats, the depth of the sensor is the #2 issue. Double-up the spacer and you'll get a false-negative. Neglect to replace it and the flywheel might grind it right off.

(For the record, my finding has been that the 4cyl sensor is "longer" than the v6 sensor.)

The #1 issue, however, is that the grey plugs are different. The 4cyl sensor is a rectangle, the v6 sensor is an oval. Step away from the hammer, Bubba. Just buy quality parts from a reputable source and you'll be fine.

OH, One other thing: on a v6, you may find it easier to do from beneath the car. On an AWD, it's a downright necessity.

[Jay-Bee]

The #1 issue, however, is that the grey plugs are different. The 4cyl sensor is a rectangle, the v6 sensor is an oval. Step away from the hammer, Bubba. Just buy quality parts from a reputable source and you'll be fine.

Not sure if you are directing this at me or just in "general"

My 2.0 is a MK4, the grey connector was round/oval. Not sure what you mean about step away from the hammer... and I bought a genuine Bosch sensor from my reputable parts guy.

[tracer]

Quote, originally posted by Jay-Bee »

Replace the 5mm bolt, not too tight, don't want to crush the plastic, not sure if there is an exact torque, but it's a plastic sensor, make sure it's nicely "tight".

If I'm not mistaken, I think that bolt torque is something like 11ft/lbs or something. Or just make it German tight.... "Guten Tight" haha

Great thread I must say

not 11 ft/lbs thats wayyy tooo tight, something like 10 in/lbs will suffice....

[sweber011]

Great DIY .. Just did this in my school parking lot with only the spare tire jack to lift my car.. Didn't have to take off the oil filter (luckily) and it took me only just over an hour. The job was exactly how its described, the sensor is difficult to take out but I popped it out with a flat head screw driver and the plastic connector was tight fitting into the metal bracket but other than that.. a very easy job, car runs perfectly now and no CEL

[The Big V]

i had to do this a couple yrs ago not long after buying my car w 198k miles on it....it's def a pain to get the thing off but i took the time to change my oil+filter and install a poly front motor mount i had just gotten in the mail all at the same time...that made for a lotta extra work room in there. take your time...getting the sensor out and locked back in can be a few minutes of frustration but as the OP said it's fairly simple and quick fix. thanks for the writeup!

[Monkeyboy2713]

I know this is a decently old thread...but is the Engine Speed Sensor on a '03 VR6 24V located in the same position or somewhere else? After getting the P0322 code it looks like it's my engine speed sensor going. Any help would be appreciated! Thanks.

[yadira7x]

I hope this is what my car needs. Cause it is doing the exact same thing, lol. I drive a 99.5 VW Jetta that I LOVE and just cannot get rid of, despite the problems I have with it, lol. Would the location be the same?

[atoson]

I'm missing my sensor wheel from my crankshaft that's why I have this code. It's a race prep short block that came assembled and didn't notice until I put back the engine swap for my NB. Sucks!

[atoson]

not 11 ft/lbs thats wayyy tooo tight, something like 10 in/lbs will suffice....

It's 7lbs.

[indybill]

ttt for a great write up. I've done two of these now, one on my car and one on my girlfriend's daughter's car. 30-45 minutes each...mostly taking off and putting back on the engine under covers...lol. Otherwise this would be a five minute job. If your car ever exhibits a sudden shut down when hot for no apparent reason, pull the codes and you'll probably find this sensor is why.

[jbrown51793]

Can anyone explain a little more in depth on how to get this dang sensor off?!? ive been prying at it with screwdrivers and prybars of all lengths and sizes for a good hour now, please help

[EmmanuelW]

Not sure if it's what made the difference, but I just changed the CPS on a 2004 2.0 GLS, and it came out quite easily.

I had first removed the oil dip stick, and the oil filler cap, figuring that suction might be keeping the CPS in the block.

Cheers,

Emmanuel

[acellier]

I followed you DIY and did the job today. Bolt is 10 mm, needs to be a rather thin-sided one. I used a brake adjusting tool (remember those?) to pry the sensor loose.
Wonder site, thanks to those who make it possible.
...acellier

[revelec]

Help i am removing speed sensor (crankshaft sensor?) and it came apart. The top pulled of and now the sensor is flush with hole. what now???

[MarioMHJV]

Is it possible to do this job without removing anything (ie. oil filter) and without getting underneath the car?

Thanks

2002 Golf 2.0

[Viper117]

1999 Vw cabrio MKIII ECU-to-CKP Voltage readings KOEO
So recently I replaced my sensor with a cheap chineee part. No go. I tested the output voltage to the sensor from the ECU (ECU-to-Sensor) = 1.22volts Could someone please tell me what the correct voltage is between the (ECU side) Red(+) -to- Black(-) If my guess is right I might have a few blown out diodes in my ECU.

Key On/Engine Off (KOEO)
Multimeter Test
ECU-Output-ESS/CKP
Red-to-Black = 1.22v
Red-to-Green = 1.22v
for me possible ECU diode fault?? Please help, I'll send you a cheese-stake if you help me fix this (not joking)

[Jay-Bee]

Is it possible to do this job without removing anything (ie. oil filter) and without getting underneath the car?

Thanks

2002 Golf 2.0

I did it without removing the oil filter like i stated in the post, but I did it from underneath, it was much easier.

1999 Vw cabrio MKIII ECU-to-CKP Voltage readings KOEO
So recently I replaced my sensor with a cheap chineee part. No go. I tested the output voltage to the sensor from the ECU (ECU-to-Sensor) = 1.22volts Could someone please tell me what the correct voltage is between the (ECU side) Red(+) -to- Black(-) If my guess is right I might have a few blown out diodes in my ECU.

Key On/Engine Off (KOEO)
Multimeter Test
ECU-Output-ESS/CKP
Red-to-Black = 1.22v
Red-to-Green = 1.22v
for me possible ECU diode fault?? Please help, I'll send you a cheese-stake if you help me fix this (not joking)

I don't have any ABA info sorry.