Brian you truely are an artist [IMG]http://*****************.com/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG] [IMG]http://*****************.com/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]
Updated the first post with a lot of stuff.
Quote, originally posted by McBee » If see you're a man of perfection. Everything looks great [IMG]http://*****************.com/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]
I won't lie, I'm a little anal (no homo).
Quote, originally posted by M3NTAL » Brian you truely are an artist [IMG]http://*****************.com/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG] [IMG]http://*****************.com/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]
Thanks! I took an art class in high school, but they wouldn't let me use a Dremel, just pencils, paint, and a paintbrush.
I test fit the headlights on the car last night to make sure the OEM adjusters had enough adjustment to align the projectors correctly before I put the lenses back on and sealed them up. With them aimed all the way up the cutoff is just a little bit low. I can add a couple of washers under the lower mounts to raise the headlights up that little bit. Overall I'm very pleased with the output and can tell that they are going to blow the OEM HID reps away.
The old OEM HID reps have a Lucid 5000K HID kit. The Morimoto 5000K bulbs in the new projectors make the Lucid bulbs look like 6000K side by side. I have the 4300K Phillips bulbs too. I'm undecided which set I will use, but I am leaning more towards the 5000K (better match to the white LEDs) then giving the Phillips bulbs to my brother.
I ordered LEDs and resistors last night for the turn signals and city lights from Autolumination. I went with LEDs with three wide angle, forward firing 1-watt LEDs. The way the housings are set up, they didn't need to project any light to the side and these should light up the lens fully and be plenty bright. I went with amber LEDs for the turn signals and white LEDs for the lower lenses to go on with the parking lights. I couldn't find any places that specified the exact color, but most white LEDs are in the 5500K color range which should be close enough.
Tonight I should get the lenses back on, I have one more back cover to make later this week (maybe tomorrow), and I am waiting for some pigtails for the bi-xenon solenoids to arrive from The Retrofit Source, then I can run the wiring and get these on the car!
These are the LEDs for reference:
Modified by JettaGetUpandGo at 12:27 PM 4-5-2010
just a head's up adjust the projectors while the lights are still apart. You DO NOT want to have to put washers under the bottom mounts. Take it from me, it's a ****ing PITA! It also raises the lights creating a little more gap between the bumper and the headlights. In my case when I have a boser as well it also reduced the clearance between the hood and lights and they rub a bit now so I have careful shutting the hood and I believe this lead to the crack forming in the hood.
So you found the proper led's for the turn signals? mind pointing me to a link?
I have a ton of washers under my current lights because the fitment was so poor and nothing lined up. One of the tabs, no joke, has 3/4" worth of washers under it. With these I think they will be ok where they are aimed now, but I think I could do three washers under each tab and get away with it.
Unless they were way out of whack. adjusting the projector now is out of the question because the shroud is in place and I can't get to the heads of the bolts. I tried pulling the shrouds off already with no luck.
The LEDs came from here: http://autolumination.com/3157_3156.htm
They're the Super Star 3 watt bulbs with metal heatsinks for $15.99 each about halfway down the page. They're expensive, but should be exactly what I'm looking for. The ones without the metal heatsinks would probably be fine, but with the hot glue around the bottom lens I didn't want to risk it melting. I'll let you know how they look in the housings.
Make sure you get a heat-sink (or some way to dissipate heat) from those high-powered LEDs. And I would also recommend a V-regulator. You might of already had this in mind, but it will make them last.
EDIT: Never mind on the heat sinks...I see they already come attached
Quote, originally posted by McBee » Make sure you get a heat-sink (or some way to dissipate heat) from those high-powered LEDs. And I would also recommend a V-regulator. You might of already had this in mind, but it will make them last.
The ones with the heatsinks were more than twice the price, but it's not worth the risk to cheap out. What do you mean by a v-regulator? I have the 6-ohm resistors for the turn signals.
Air ride and installs, custom paint and bodywork, custom machined parts, motor swaps and upgrades
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thanks for the info bud. I'll be honest and probably wait to see how they look in your setup but i'm sure you've done your research and they will look great. [IMG]http://*****************.com/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]
No problem. I'll be honest too. I never found any pictures or reviews of them. But from all the LEDs that I saw these seemed like they would illuminate the lenses best. They should actually be here today, so I can take some pictures.
Quote, originally posted by JettaGetUpandGo » The ones with the heatsinks were more than twice the price, but it's not worth the risk to cheap out. What do you mean by a v-regulator? I have the 6-ohm resistors for the turn signals.
Voltage regulator. I've never tried to deal with turn signal LEDs, but keeping any sort of LED from seeing voltage spikes will help the lifespan.
Oh, and LEDs with a wavelength of 585-595nm match the natural amber color - might need it for future use. I can't tell you how many LEDs I went through in order to find one that matched the amber turn signals.
The LEDs are here! At fits glance they look like three of the 42DraftDesigns high-intensity LEDs clustered together. I have a short class at 4:30, but I will test them in the car after I get home and take pictures.
If the color doesn't match or it doesn't light the lens up evenly, then I have a couple of ideas to fix it. I did theatre lighting in high school and we used gels (sheets of colored film) to change the color of the lights. When I did the trunk floor a couple of weeks ago I stopped at a theatre supply store to pickup gaffer's tape (essentially matte black duct tape that doesn't leave residue). While I was there, I picked up two different 1" x 3" sample books with hundreds of different colors. One of them or two different ones together will work and 20" x 24" sheets are available for $7.50. There are also films that will diffuse / defocus the light to light up the lens more evenly if need be.
Lighting gel sample book for reference:
Quote, originally posted by McBee » Oh, and LEDs with a wavelength of 585-595nm match the natural amber color - might need it for future use. I can't tell you how many LEDs I went through in order to find one that matched the amber turn signals.
Thanks! My side and rear turn signals are chrome coated amber bulbs that are a really dark, almost red color. As long as they don't look awful, I'll probably keep them since none of the turn signals can be seen together at the same time.
I'm still waiting for connectors for the bi-xenon solenoids from TRS that supposedly shipped last Tuesday but aren't here yet. Other than completing the other back, it's the only think that's keeping me from finishing.
Modified by JettaGetUpandGo at 4:06 PM 4-7-2010
Last night I was playing around with the LEDs.
I believe they are powerful enough to not need resistors, but after I brought everything back inside I realized they might have blinked fine because the ignition wasn't on (I used the hazard light switch to test them). The color is a deep amber color and lights up the lens pretty well, however when looking at the light hitting the garage door, the stock amber bulbs are brighter.
The white ones had a pretty bad blue tint to them, but I was able to find a gel to put over the LEDs to change the color. I pulled 12 different colors out of the book and picked the one that looked the closest. It's not absolutely perfect, but much much better than the blueish white. Because contact cement is relatively heat resistant and sets more quickly than epoxy, I used a little bit of that to hold the film in place.
No pictures, it was cold and raining.
This morning I wasn't feeling well, so I skipped class. I got bored pretty quickly and decided to do some more work. The back of the second light is done, and I also waterproofed the ballasts with a liberal amount of silicone (one of the connectors on the ballast I chose is typically mounted inside the headlight and sealed from the elements by a rubber o-ring. Unfortunately, there was no room on the housing to mount it in a similar way).
After adjusting the headlights the other day, the back of the bulb moved down far enough that the bulb connector from the ballast no longer fits within the PVC back. It's close, but will need a little bit of trimming. I will trim both backs once the epoxy and silicone have set up on the second back and ballasts. I hope to get to that tonight.
If the connectors for the bi-xenon solenoids don't come in the mail today I will use quick disconnect crimp connectors and electrical tape the snot out of them. I'm going out of town Saturday morning and would like to have the lights in and bumper back on.
Quote, originally posted by JettaGetUpandGo » Harness connectors are here!!! I'm not going to bed until I'm finished and the bumper is back on.
Do work. [IMG]http://*****************.com/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG] This build is quality.
Alright, I hit the point where I stopped thinking clearly and decided I had to stop for the night.
The driver's side light required a metric **** ton of trimming because of the battery and the stock intake tubing (a lot of which i cut out). It involved a lot of test fitting, bringing into the basement to trim, then back up to the garage, etc. I found out after finishing the wiring and getting the light on the car that the turn signal did need the resistor... The reason it didn't before is because I was using the hazard lights to test and the load from the other front bulb must have been enough to suppress the hyper blinking.
After school is out in another month or so I will trim the battery box cover and the cover behind the driver's side light so they can go back on. I want everything to look OEM once finished.
So... the driver's side light is done, washers under the mounting tabs to align the housing with the grill and fender, the cutoff is aligned where it needs to be, everything works as it should.
I set my alarm for 8:00 to get up and finish the other light, which involves trimming the PVC back to allow the bulb connector to fit, cutting a notch for the wiring, placing it on the car to verify that everything works, and align the cutoff beam, and throw the bumper back on. I am supposed to go out of town for a dyno day and my goal is to be on the road by 11:00. Pictures may have to wait if necessary.
**** me. The high beams are on whenever the headlights are on. I don't know why. With one of the retrofitted lights in and the other my old OEM HID rep, the high beams work normally.
That, and one of the pins on the ballast connector that goes to the bulb is loose and keeps flickering, then shuts off. I'm not leaving for a while...
Alright, I think I traced the problems to the connector on the ballast. TRS recommended using silicone around that connector to seal it from water. In order to get to the connector to try and fix the pin I had to peel all of the silicone off and destroyed the connector in the process.
I put one old headlight on and I'll have to wait for a new cable to ship. FML.