Any one else tried this?
The RS4 valve can cope with up to 150bar of pressure requests
a must for stage 2+ cars with flat spots at 5k where more fuel is requested
If you honestly think i am lying you are more than welcome to take this offline with me on IMs. Run the same logs using the same poor sample rate i'm stuck with and then report back.
At this point i don't even care anymore dude.
I regret taking you seriously in the first place cause i thought you where just mixed up and
needed help to straighten your thoughts.
Now i can see you are completely clueless, and in a forum giving advice and making logs about something you know nothing about...
So yeah, i really have nothing more to say to you, i am just hoping people will benefit from this by actually not taking you or your supposed "findings" seriously, at least not as proof that.."it works".
Once again, i would suggest checking your car, cause valve or no valve, it doesn't look good...
End of story.
Honestly, after reading all of this...I'm not convinced with the data provided...the sampling rate is too low to really determine how the rail pressure is really fluctuating (or sustaining) due to the new valve.
guys, i respect everyone's opinion here. Yes, even yours GolfRS. I've gone out of my way to take the time to post actual data free of charge. Inevitably some people will disagree. To you i say... prove me wrong with cold hard data. I welcome it. If i'm wrong prove it and i'll accept it. But so far my data and first hand experience say otherwise. Eventually someone else will install this valve and we'll see how that plays out. Till then, i wish everyone well.
I'm not saying I don't believe you or taking any sides here. All I'm trying to relay is that the data provided isn't detailed enough to make a decision for or against. In my case...I really don't see a need as my stock valve seems to provide the specified rail pressure quite well...
I'm not saying I don't believe you or taking any sides here. All I'm trying to relay is that the data provided isn't detailed enough to make a decision for or against. In my case...I really don't see a need as my stock valve seems to provide the specified rail pressure quite well...
right. but i had the choice of replacing my stock valve with another stock one that might or might not have the same problem as my first one or go with the RS4 valve which probably costs the same and is rated higher. What would you choose?
What i have gatherd from all of this is that ndifadvokit was not reaching requested before installing RS4 valve but now is, i was also not reaching requested, but now meet it better than i ever have and guess what yeah my car does feel smoother, much smoother. Could i be masking a potential problem, maybe, but i guess that problem would have to show its face again and when it does i will deal with it. My rail pressure logs have never looked better. It is as simple as that.
Everything else thats being discussed, has nothing to do with why the uprated valve was installed. This is not as complicated as its being made out to be.
Like what was said earlier the stock valve could have been playing up, i chose to stick the uprated valve on and have only seen good things. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
Why is that? I order form there they are usually really good? I do not know about this part but other things have been good....$.02
was acting up with mozilla, I ordered off google chrome really easy and email support is there... now I can only hope they're sending me the rs4 and not the fsi because they look identical LOL.
was acting up with mozilla, I ordered off google chrome really easy and email support is there... now I can only hope they're sending me the rs4 and not the fsi because they look identical LOL.
Well if they sell parts at least they should know how to tell one part number from the other...
Hopefully..
Hi i'm here to ask for that kit tool ....... what price have and where i can find that . I modifyed to keys to change that presure valve without remove manidolf .
Update. So I ran some logs last night. Prior to installing this valve I was running 949 on my Revo software. With the new valve I'm able to bump the numbers to 969 and not have any retardation.
Update. So I ran some logs last night. Prior to installing this valve I was running 949 on my Revo software. With the new valve I'm able to bump the numbers to 969 and not have any retardation.
Hey man how r u doing , I've an issue that the actual rail pressure never managed to meet the requested rail pressure, specially after installing GT3076R + RS4 injectors, do you think replacing the OEM return valve with the RS4 one would solve the problem,? or do I have another issue.. ?
Update. So I ran some logs last night. Prior to installing this valve I was running 949 on my Revo software. With the new valve I'm able to bump the numbers to 969 and not have any retardation.
I bolted on the rs4 valve recently along with the APR in-tank fuel pump with no software changes and noticed I could run more boost and stay under a 12.0:1 air fuel ratio... Aside from that I never had time to log any of those blocks but the car seems to run better. As far as I know unitronics only requests 127bar so I'm guessing it's just making it able to match requested and hold it there the whole time under full load.
Better watch out with that autotech fuel pump, mine seized up requesting 127bar after about a year of use. Hopefully it's one of the newer versions, I had version 2.
Hate to be a noob reviving a thread, but this had recently been found as a problem over on the Audi A4 2.0 platform. Any updates?
I am running into fueling issues, but not fuel cuts. It seems very early 2.0 A4s (05.5-06) came installed with only a 116 bar fuel rail dump valve. Awesome. I am only REVO stage 2, but it seems this may be causing issues.
It seems you guys are only aware of the OEM RS4 valve as a replacement, but there are better alternatives recently available.
hpfpupgrade.com has a 142 bar valve for $100 and you can upgrade up to 150 bar for another $25.
Does anyone have a DIY guide for this operation, or know where i could get one?
Don't know if im going to try to change the valve without talking the manifold away or not..
It really is possible without removing the manifold. I have done it twice. You just need some crows feet and a ratchet extension. I think its a 14mm and a 17mm. Should take around an hour. Hardest part is threading the new one on. You will need electrical tape and patience.
Oh is it that tight. This is going to be fun to try, wish me luck!
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