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    Thread: OBD connector location

    1. Member ibanezguy19's Avatar
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      04-11-2010 12:57 PM #1
      I have a 93 golf with a 2.0. My first question is more of a confirmation. It's safe to assume that this is an OBD 1, correct? Assuming that it hasn't been swapped. I'm not very sure about it's history. But my second question is:

      Where is the connector?

      I heard that it was supposed to be behind one of the blanks above my cig lighter socket but I wasn't able to find it


    2. Member Sallad's Avatar
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      04-11-2010 01:00 PM #2
      The connector is near the ashtray. There will be a large filler blank on the right side. It's under that. It slides to the left to reveal the connector.


      Modified by Sallad at 10:02 AM 4-11-2010
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    3. Member ibanezguy19's Avatar
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      04-11-2010 01:02 PM #3
      The blank that is in the row of buttons with my defroster and norm/max a/c control buttons, correct? If that's the case, the connector isn't there

      Edit: Does this help?



      Modified by ibanezguy19 at 10:23 AM 4-11-2010


    4. Member Sallad's Avatar
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      04-11-2010 01:10 PM #4
      OK, I just ran out and took a pic for ya. (you owe me a beer for going outside!)

      If you remove the ashtray and slide that large blank to the left, you'll see it.

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    5. Member ibanezguy19's Avatar
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      04-11-2010 01:29 PM #5
      Thank you very much
      Unfortunately, this piece is not removable on mine and reaching and looking through the open part on my row of buttons, you can tell that theres no connector or even wires. From that open blank, it only goes straight down to the lighter socket. I have the setup with no airbags and an upper glovebox if this helps

    6. Senior Member reynolds9000's Avatar
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      04-11-2010 01:43 PM #6
      That's weird, but maybe 93's didn't come with diagnostic ports?
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    7. Member ibanezguy19's Avatar
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      04-11-2010 01:49 PM #7
      I know it does because the mechanic that inspected my car ran a diagnostic to try to find out why my check engine light keeps coming on(in which case, there were no error codes ) Anyhow, I suppose I'll just wait until I get a chance to get back there when he's open. Thank you all for the help, it's greatly appreciated and any other comments would also be appreciated

    8. Senior Member reynolds9000's Avatar
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      04-11-2010 01:53 PM #8
      On OBD1 cars, there is a way to get the codes without using a diagnostic code reader.. I have an OBD2 car so i have no idea exactly how it's done, but if you search "blink codes" you might find some helpful info.
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    9. Member ibanezguy19's Avatar
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      04-11-2010 02:18 PM #9
      Allright, thanks again

    10. Member Sallad's Avatar
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      04-11-2010 03:43 PM #10
      Mine is an OBDI car. It's a '94. In you pic you have the same blank to the right of the ashtray. Have you tried SLIDING it to the left? (with the ashtray removed).

      I know some cars will have a couple white plugs under the shift boot. And you hook up a test light to it and they'll blink the codes.

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    11. Member ibanezguy19's Avatar
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      04-13-2010 06:17 PM #11
      There is no wiring behind that blank and it will not move at all. It is just empty plastic and goes straight down to the lighter socket when you look in.

      I did, however, find an interesting piece of information. I removed the 2 blanks in that row of buttons, the two between my max and my defroster button. I found some plugs but didn't know what they were. After some searching, I realized that they seem exactly like this: http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/2x2.html

      Is this what I have been looking for?


    12. Member KarlG's Avatar
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      04-13-2010 06:20 PM #12
      Yes, those are OBD1 diagnostics plugs.

    13. Member Sallad's Avatar
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      04-13-2010 06:26 PM #13
      Quote, originally posted by KarlG »
      Yes, those are OBD1 diagnostics plugs.

      Those are pre-OBD ports. Mine was an OBD1 car, it has a regular ODB connector (see above pic). Those multi plus ports were from the CIS-E, CIS-Motronic days.

      Weird that your car has those.

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    14. Member ibanezguy19's Avatar
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      04-13-2010 06:27 PM #14
      Excellent, I just needed that confirmation. Thank you very much
      And will it be difficult to find a code reader for these?


      Modified by ibanezguy19 at 3:30 PM 4-13-2010

    15. Member sun98gtiVR6's Avatar
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      04-13-2010 06:43 PM #15
      Quote, originally posted by ibanezguy19 »

      And will it be difficult to find a code reader for these?

      yes, yes it will


    16. Member catbed's Avatar
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      04-13-2010 06:53 PM #16
      youll be better off blinking the codes than trying to find a scanner. im not sure how to do it on a 2x2 connector, though.
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    17. Member ShavedRabbit's Avatar
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      04-13-2010 07:05 PM #17
      Quote, originally posted by ibanezguy19 »
      Excellent, I just needed that confirmation. Thank you very much
      And will it be difficult to find a code reader for these?


      Modified by ibanezguy19 at 3:30 PM 4-13-2010


      no, its not hard to find one, in fact i have one

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    18. Member ibanezguy19's Avatar
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      04-14-2010 11:24 AM #18
      What exactly should I search for? If it is a pre-OBD connector, as sallad stated, then what kind of reader should I find?

    19. Member Sallad's Avatar
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      04-14-2010 11:36 AM #19
      You don't need a "reader" just make an LED test light. You basically get an LED, hook it up to two pins and the LED will blink. You cound the blinks, then it'll pause, then blibk again, then pause, and blink again. It'll do this I believe four times to give you the code.

      i.e. blink, blink, pause, blink, pause, blink, blink, blink, pause, blink, blink.

      Would be code 2132

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    20. Member 3-0-4's Avatar
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      04-14-2010 11:40 AM #20
      get an obdII scanner and buy this? that should work no?

      http://www.dhgate.com/obd2-vag....html

      Yikes!

    21. Member Sallad's Avatar
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      04-14-2010 11:44 AM #21
      OBDII scanner, on the cheap side is $50, that adapter is about $15. That's still $65 or more, when an LED costs nothing.

      And really, how often would you use it. I've never used blink codes in any Audi/VW (4 of them now) I owned. I just fix the problem, not worry about the computer.

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      04-14-2010 11:51 AM #22
      Quote, originally posted by 3-0-4 »
      get an obdII scanner and buy this? that should work no?

      http://www.dhgate.com/obd2-vag....html

      this is what i use for the ****ty b3 passats and such that roll through the shop

    23. Member ibanezguy19's Avatar
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      04-17-2010 04:45 PM #23
      Which connector would I want to connect the test light to? There's 2

    24. Member AtomixMK3's Avatar
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      04-17-2010 05:23 PM #24
      No they're not "pre-OBD" its OBD-I because its a 2x2 connector. The 16 pin connector came on both OBD-I and OBD-II cars. This is what you do take a jumper wire and put it on the botttom two pin slots. This will cause your MIL (CEL) to blink. It will blink once then the it will blink the number of the first digit of the code. It will pause again for a second and then blink the second digit it will do this a total of 4 times so you should have four digits. Post up the code it blinks and I'll give you what Bentley says.
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    25. Member AtomixMK3's Avatar
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      04-17-2010 05:32 PM #25
      I should clarify you will run the jumper from the white connector to the black connector. Sorry :-P
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    26. Member Sallad's Avatar
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      04-17-2010 07:21 PM #26
      There are four pins, don't you need to jump two of them and hook the LED to the others? I thought I read that in the Bentley somewhere.
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    27. Member ibanezguy19's Avatar
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      04-17-2010 08:54 PM #27
      After talking to some friends about blink codes, I was also told to watch for the CEL but no one mentioned the jumper part(of course, they don't have VWs )

      I'll definitely give this a shot in the morning


    28. Member AtomixMK3's Avatar
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      04-17-2010 09:01 PM #28
      Nope you just use a jumper on the bottom two pins. No LED because the CEL is what is flashing
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    29. Member Sallad's Avatar
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      04-17-2010 10:34 PM #29
      My car doesn't have a CEL.
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    30. Member AtomixMK3's Avatar
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      04-17-2010 10:37 PM #30
      Theres not one in your cluster? Should be.
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    31. Member ibanezguy19's Avatar
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      04-18-2010 10:37 AM #31
      Edit: I googled it. It says it's my injector on cylinder 1. Should I simply replace this? Or replace them all to be safe? Fuel system cleaner has been run through it twice since I bought it because I didn't trust that the previous owner took care of it

      Edit edit: Also, what size injectors would be stock?

      Got some numbers for you. But it didn't make complete sense to me so here it goes:

      1 long flash
      pause
      4 short
      pause
      4 short
      pause
      1 short
      pause
      1 short
      pause

      then it starts from the top


      Modified by ibanezguy19 at 7:58 AM 4-18-2010


      Modified by ibanezguy19 at 7:59 AM 4-18-2010


    32. Member Sallad's Avatar
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      04-18-2010 12:28 PM #32
      Quote, originally posted by AtomixMK3 »
      Theres not one in your cluster? Should be.

      Nope, the bulb hole was empty. I guess the PO could have removed it. But no matter now, as I did a swap anyways.

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      04-18-2010 12:38 PM #33
      4411 Fuel Injector (N30) - injector faulty or wiring to valve damaged/open or shorted. Check wiring to valve. Check for injector signal using LED test light or injector signal tester. If signal is present, injector is probably faulty and should be replaced.

      To test the injector disconnect the harness connector for the injector and with a DVOM check the resistance across the injector terminals. Resistance should be 15 - 21.5 ohms. If resistance is incorrect its probably a good idea to replace the injector. If the resistance is fine with a test light or DVOM check the pins on the harness connector while having an assistant crank the engine. The test light should light up or show some voltage if not check the wiring

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    34. Member ibanezguy19's Avatar
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      04-21-2010 04:24 PM #34
      Sorry it's been so long but I tested today and here's what I got:

      The resistance measured 16 ohms and the voltage on the wire read between 12 and 13 volts. I didn't have someone to crank it but would leaving it running do the same thing?


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