So far so good, we haven't even had the slab for the new garage poured yet and we're close to $20K in unexpected costs. Oh, and a sewer pipe got broken today by the bloke who thinks it's reasonable to charge $4000 to dig a hole for a water tank.
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#142
So far so good, we haven't even had the slab for the new garage poured yet and we're close to $20K in unexpected costs. Oh, and a sewer pipe got broken today by the bloke who thinks it's reasonable to charge $4000 to dig a hole for a water tank.
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#143
you can't dig a hole ?
.. missus has been told to start digging if she really wants a pool![]()
#146
10,000l water tank.
Eventually the Mk1 will park on top, so maybe it can also double as a genuine money pit or an automotive grave.![]()
#147
Is the tank a council/territory requirement for the reno's Liam?
Keep up the progress reports!![]()
#149
No. It was originally planned as a car washing resource; two years ago when dam levels were <33%. Oddly enough, they tell us on installation tomorrow they need to part fill the tank to at least 5000l in order to help it settle into its new home.
Lucky dam levels are now at 100%.
We'll hook it up to our dunnies and washing machine and get a few hundred back from govco.
#150
It's great Lima. I mean, these days I don't feel guilty using the full flush on my toilet bowl because I have a water tank.![]()
#151
I've got a 5kl tank and it's connected to the toilets (which get murky quicker), the washing machine (clothes smell more often) and a garden tap.
It was a NSW BASIX/building standards requirement, but I don't understand the point of it:
- Every time we flush the toilet, it uses electricity to drive the pump. Seems like we're wasting electricity to save water.
- I can hear all of our neighbours pumps.
- And as soon as the tank level is low, the pump sucks in mains water rather than just bypassing the tank.
Anyway, I'm rambling. At the very least, I'd suggest making the rainwater an extra tap in your laundry instead of replacing the cold. This way you can easily bypass the tap if it makes your clothes dirty or smelly.
#152
My new project home is tank only. I have already been looking into filters etc for it. The tank is quite new at least. There must be way of cleaning the water up. I can always bath in the dam.
It is installed on an angle which i assume is very bad for a poly tank if full. They are not designed for that type of load. Empting/levelling etc is already on my list of stuff to do.
I have put a basic budget of few things to buy and minor things to tinker with. Man 20k does not go far these days.![]()
#153
Thanks for the tips Pete.
Another pic in the daylight. The tank is probably going in the hole as I type.
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#158
How will you stop it from turning into a 10t block of ice during the average Canberra winter ?![]()
#159
Haha, good point, we've already has a couple of -6°C nights.![]()
#161
Glad Mrs Lima was able to get home a couple of times today...
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#162
Do you have a first flush device? Check that this is working so that the crap from your roof isn't going straight into the tank
Your tap water is most likely supplied by a pumped system, so you're swapping your electricity for the water authority's
It was a NSW BASIX/building standards requirement, but I don't understand the point of it:
- Every time we flush the toilet, it uses electricity to drive the pump. Seems like we're wasting electricity to save water.
The idea is to knock the top off demand peaks, ie use the rainwater tank on hot summer days instead of drawing mains water.
- I can hear all of our neighbours pumps.
- And as soon as the tank level is low, the pump sucks in mains water rather than just bypassing the tank.
Anyway, I'm rambling. At the very least, I'd suggest making the rainwater an extra tap in your laundry instead of replacing the cold. This way you can easily bypass the tap if it makes your clothes dirty or smelly.
Out of curiosity, how often does the tank run low and need to be topped up from the mains? I did some demand analysis work a while ago and the reduction to mains usage was meant to be fairly decent chunk.. (maybe a third or more). Of course that all depends on your roof area, tank size and local rainfall patterns.
Last edited by Philthy_; 05-18-2011 at 02:23 AM.
#163
Also the reason that the tank isn't bypassed when it runs out is to avoid the 'risk' of cross-contaminating mains water with tank water.
It can be done by hooking a reduced pressure zone device, but these are stupid expensive and need to be serviced annually.
#164
Surely there is no chance the soil will get cold enough to freeze the water?
Looks like i have loan approval. Handy considering i paid a 10% deposit and signed a contract with no cooling off.![]()
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#167
...at least the possum would be frozen, and not rot as quickly...![]()
#168
Hi,
I haven't seen too many swimming pools freeze lately in canberra, so it is unlikely that an undergound tank will freeze!!
I have a 100,000l swimming pool and a 130,000l underground water tank. The pool gets much colder in the middle of winter, as the tank is insulated by the earth around it.
Cheers
Robbo
#169
Sounds a bit expensive Liam.
Some idicative prices of what I have spent in the past month as I am also building :
I excavated last month approx 80m3 (Approx 12m x 7.5m x 0.8m depth average + footings) and had it removed for a total of $7k... total of around 8 bogie loads.
I also had 90% of my domestic sewer line re installed for $3600, all inclusive (around 12 - 15metres worth)
I poured a 32mpa slab (all inclusive, steel, pump, labour etc) using over 18m3 of concrete for $11k
Quattro drivers do it on all fours....
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