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    Thread: How To Shave Your Engine Bay

    1. Member Turdvr6's Avatar
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      05-07-2010 11:58 AM #1
      As the title states im gonna take you on a step through step adventure on shaving your engine bay. I finished building my motor and i had cleaned up my bay and painted it but at the last minute decided to shave it. This isnt going to be a full out shave, but it will look good. Since i plan on doing alot of work in my bay and constantly doing performance upgrades everything still has to be accessible so it will be fully driveable with no problems concerning shorts. Ill start posting pics after work today, ive made it pretty far already.

      *if you have questiosn please ask*

      Im doin this because i want people to learn how to do things as quick as possible and ill try to use basic tools for those who dont have access to a garage, altho i will be using a welder (mine is running out of gas so my welds suck so dont fel bad)

      Anything i post, please feel free to add, or ask if you would like details about anything in particular. Im still undecided what finish to make my bay, after its smoothed and in primer im probbaly going to use a protective coating called Sschutz, similar to undercoat and indestructible so my bay will deal with the abuse of lots of wrenching and spilled fluids.


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      05-07-2010 12:08 PM #2
      in to see progress, and to steal ideas to further my wire tuck/shave
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    3. Member Turdvr6's Avatar
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      05-07-2010 12:27 PM #3
      My bay orginally


      AFter the motor was pulled and bay painted


      The first step is to decide exactly what you want to do. I wanted to shave all the holes in my engine bay, and make everything seamless. I used a right angle grinder with a 28 grit 3in disk to grind all the seam sealer out, and a dewalt electric grinder with numerous grinding discs to knock down and large bumps, and to cut off screw or anything else to take away from the shaved look.

      Food for thought, make your bay seem like a motor was never goiong to be in it. smooth everything as best you can, then remount anything you need to later, create your own holes and mounting tabs.




      grinding all the edges down where unnecessary holes will be welded, make sure to clean the outside of welding area, then hand sand the inner lip for good weld penetration.


      this pic shows the seam sealer ground out


      even tho i ground these holes out, i didnt fill them because i think i will use that as a point to reqoute some of my wiring harness


      this bracket holds the upper rail where the fender bolts to. I took out the bolt and im welding this braket then flushing the edges, remember to always weld things before u cut them and remove bolts to retain structural ridgedness.


      Learning how to make good templates will make the sheet metal fab alot easer, you can use cardboard or paper or whatever you find best. For cruvy portions, i use opffice paper cause its easily bendable for tight radius. for something flat use cardboard because its easier to hold and trace.

    4. Member Turdvr6's Avatar
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      05-07-2010 12:33 PM #4
      then you can cut out your template, i used 18 gauge sheet metal i had laying around my shop and a cut off wheel to cut it out, but a pair of tin snips will work it just cramps your hand after a while. The thinner the metal the easier to work with, but harder to weld. experiment with different gauge material to find what you prefer.


      test fit, always cut the metal bigger than what it needs to be and trim it down afterwords.


      using ahammer, curve the metal just rough enough to fit the hole you will be filling. this was the end result, and it was pretty close already.


      tackweld it on, and use a hammer to form the metal very close to the engine bay. do small sections, and work at opposite ends of the patch to keep warpage down. i go in one to two inch sectiong and weld then hammer to have a tight fit.


      my poor motor was just calling my name to go in, but soon enough.

    5. 05-07-2010 12:35 PM #5
      Great thread! Ill be watching this

    6. 05-07-2010 12:39 PM #6
      :thumb: Should come in handy

    7. Member Turdvr6's Avatar
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      05-07-2010 02:35 PM #7
      After u get most of the seam sealer off, you can grind anything else down you want. I took all the paint off i could, the less layers of paint the better for lasting adhesion. Progress so far.


      the just like the previous hole, cut another template and cut out ther sheet metal and weld again. This time i welded the circular hole, pretty straight forward. With a simple hole u can put the paper behind it and trace a circle, then just cut the sheet metal a half inch bigger to be safe.


      next is the hole below the circle, grind everything smooth and cut yet another template. Keep in mind to work inch by inch and use the hammer to manipulate the metal to get as close to the original metal as possible.


      sometimes its easier to work sheet by sheet and weld smaller peices to fill gaps, instead of using one larger peice of metal and doing alot of bending. here i filled the remaining hole with just a peice of cutout scrap from the former patch.


      its nice to take a step back and admire your work. things are coming along smoothly and i have one side nearly finished. i have around 4 hours involved so far.

    8. Banned vento86's Avatar
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      05-07-2010 02:37 PM #8
      i like where this is going. just dont jb weld and bondo everything

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      05-07-2010 02:39 PM #9
      looking good

    10. Member Turdvr6's Avatar
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      05-07-2010 02:46 PM #10
      right beneath the first patch i welded, there was a small circle and a few other holes, istend of going behind i just cut out a triangle and welded it on top.


      its starting to look nice. this is one of my favorites stagtes, i love sheet metal fab and i think there is a sexyness to bare/ground metal


      at this point you can start grinding down welds and smoothing things out. dont worry, if ma weld didnt penetrate, you can justm reweld and grind. I had to do it quite a few times since my welds werent to great from the lack of gas.

      I think i have done a good job. The sheet metal actually came out so nice after i did all the grinding that i need just a skim coat of mud. sure some places will have more mud than others like factory seams, but the less mud the better.


      Time for mud, i am just using bondo since its under the hood. When i do body i use rage gold.


      also a big trick when doing things like this when sanding is going to be rough, use your finger when the mud just starts drying and rub the bondo to a general shape. Its very ahrd to apply mud in a uniform fashin because of the curvature of the metal, i would cut my putty squeegees into quarters most of the time.


      and now i have the hardest part of the shave done. a few more skim coats and rough sanding then i ccan start uding my d/a sander to finalize things. start with 36 or 40 grit for rough shape and work your way up the grit world.

      If you can get gelcoat, get it. once everything is roughed in, gelcoat is like a thin bondo that can be sprayed thru a gun, with a large tip size of course. It makes life very easy, but i didnt want to buy any so ill take my time and keep on truckin.

      Thats all I have for now, im working on refinishing a set of borbets tonight. I may make a write up fotr that if anyone is interested actually. stripping cleaning, painting and polishing the lips. comments are appreciated! time for beer.

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      05-07-2010 02:48 PM #11
      :thumb
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    12. Member ClickClack's Avatar
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      05-07-2010 03:18 PM #12
      nice work

    13. 05-07-2010 03:19 PM #13
      it's nice that people put time to write this kind of stuff...that helps many users..
      nice work man!

      if i had time, i would love to shave my bay...

    14. Member Turdvr6's Avatar
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      05-07-2010 03:35 PM #14
      thanks guys. Ive done alot of work to my car, and all i have is are crappy phone pics, but vortex has helped me with alot so im just trying to give some of that back. Like i said, please feel free to ask questions as i go along on any specifics, and ill do my best to answer

    15. Member Sallad's Avatar
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      05-07-2010 03:42 PM #15
      Pretty cool.
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      05-07-2010 04:07 PM #16
      This isn't what I was expecting when I clicked the thread. Everything looks good so far!

    17. Member Turdvr6's Avatar
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      05-07-2010 04:28 PM #17
      i really want to do the schutz because of durability.. but i have a few other things in mind as well. possibly a harlequin paint scheme for just the bay.. every panel a diff color or checkered flag. any ideas?

    18. Member VvirginW's Avatar
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      05-07-2010 04:39 PM #18
      in

    19. 05-07-2010 06:02 PM #19
      I'm not sure what you are using for a grinding wheel, but that mofo looks aggressive. 80 grit flap discs will do wonders.

    20. Member Turdvr6's Avatar
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      05-07-2010 06:40 PM #20
      24 grit for heavy welds or the dewalt grinder, then i switch to an 80 grit velcro disk on my d/a for flatter areas. this isnt my first experience with body work, and i do heavier grits because it doesnt waste as much material. i can always use icing to finish up and do away with sandscratches

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      05-07-2010 06:48 PM #21
      i notice that a lot of shaved bays are of vr6s and very few 2.0s. why is that? maybe cuz the 2.0 is so small and makes the bay look funny with all that empty space ? just a question? dont mean to thread jack

    22. Member Turdvr6's Avatar
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      05-08-2010 08:57 PM #22
      and on a side note, how to make a rediculous ricey and beat up borbet type t transform from! lololol noobs and spray bombs =D




      back to engine bay goodness. Got another coat of mud on, ive been bsuting my ass workin on the borbets so i can sell them, but this side of the engine bay is about done. a skim coat of icing and i should be ready for primer. im excited!

      Im still undecided wether or not to keep my ac. i was all for my ps delete but i kinda got screwed out of a mk2 manual rack.. so ill relocate the ps resevoir and have pictures on how to do it. also going to re route the lines so that they arent on the side of the frame rail, going to bend tubing and run them in front of the axle and underneath the framerail. If i keep ac ill do i step by step process to show you the fastest easiest way to polish those mothasuckin lines! A black txtured bay with polished ac lines shouldnt look to bad, plus all the goodies from my direct port setup.

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      05-08-2010 09:06 PM #23
      Damn girl, I'm subscribed.

    24. Member Turdvr6's Avatar
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      05-09-2010 02:13 AM #24
      update for the night. i didnt get a chance to take pics of anything else i did because my phone died.. but this is the bay before primer. it started to rain and i was working outside so no primer, itll b primed tomorrow for sure. enjoy. Also, im making a custom coolant resevoir, it will hold more coolant and thats a plus, but the stock coolant bubble.. well its an ugly ass ****ty plastic bubble. so im making one out of aluminum and having my buddy weld it for me. Cardboard templates and hot glue is what i shall use to make it, then paint it silver so i know exactly how it will look. cardboard is much easier to work with than sheet aluminum i tell ya.

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      05-09-2010 02:17 AM #25
      wow...looks great! Cool thread. I'll be watching this...

    26. Member SlowVRT's Avatar
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      05-09-2010 03:03 AM #26
      Looks good

    27. Member Turdvr6's Avatar
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      05-09-2010 03:07 AM #27
      thanks fellas. designing the new coolant bubble is gonna be the cool part. im pretty stoked for that.

      also, the smaller holes on the framerail.. the ones roughly the size of a dime.. i welded dimes there instead of just filling them with mud. friggin dimes. im gonna try to not sand them and put just a hair of mud around the egdes of them and paint over them or mask them off, cause thats pretty sick. ha
      Last edited by Turdvr6; 05-09-2010 at 03:09 AM.

    28. Member Turdvr6's Avatar
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      05-10-2010 07:37 PM #28
      woop woop just threw my 17x8 type e's on for inspiration..


      started cleaning up my firewall.


      shall be primed within a few hours


      started cleaning up this ugly mess, i need to source out a master cylinder for the vr6 without abs, anyone got one? also all my power steering and ac components are up for sale if anyone wants them, i ultimately decided to just ditch pwoer steering, ill just get a manual rack later and loop my lines for now.


      last pic for a little bit.

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      05-10-2010 07:48 PM #29
      you've got a long way to go buddy, took me 3 years and alot of money to create this, still not done with it, just got it running

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    30. Member Turdvr6's Avatar
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      05-10-2010 08:17 PM #30
      half of it will be done tonight. it will take me no more than 10 days to finish. i have insane work ethic. but that bay looks good.

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      05-10-2010 10:02 PM #31
      This is good stuff, I'm in the middle of a wire tuck and later on I am planning on doing some shaving, so this is definitely a good way to get a better idea of how it's done!
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      05-10-2010 10:42 PM #32
      got it in primer, still some sandscratches that need to be taken care of, and im not happy with the seams of the strut towers. if i decide to schutz everything then it can stay the way it is because it has alot of texture, im unsure of what i want to do. i want this engine bay to be art, abstract. not the same color as my car.

      when my hood is popped, i want to have a smile everytime, i want it to be off the wall.

      IDEAS?!?!!shiftoneone




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      05-10-2010 10:51 PM #33
      Cheetah spots
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      @feces

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      05-10-2010 10:54 PM #34
      I thought about cheetah, but zebra would be pretty badass too. I need to make a poll, then all of vortex can be a part of my car. If i can find someone to graffiti good enough, id like to do that.
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      05-10-2010 11:02 PM #35
      -Zac

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