Purdue University

[gilsmak]

Well, it's still in Bloomington (and I am still in Logansport). But I have already called and left them a check-list of Possible issues. Sad that I am the one to have to do it, but **** happens.

I will know more today after I call.

[blue70beetle]

Did you swap the fuel distributor / airbox from the 16V in with the engine? I can't remember offhand where the fuel distributor went on 16V A1s, but I know the location moved on the A2, compared to 8V A1s, and I assume an A2 could have been the donor car since they were more plentiful.

[Foxtrot]

Did you swap the fuel distributor / airbox from the 16V in with the engine? I can't remember offhand where the fuel distributor went on 16V A1s, but I know the location moved on the A2, compared to 8V A1s, and I assume an A2 could have been the donor car since they were more plentiful.

Oh, I guess that is a good point to make. Are you running straight up CIS-E or CIS-E Motronic? It does make a difference for some things...

[gilsmak]

Swap is from an 87 Scirocco, so everything stayed on the same side. And it is just straight CIS-E.

[blue70beetle]

Isn't there some sort of a warm-up pressure regulator on the front of the block? Or did that disappear with the start of CIS-E?

[farfromugen]

Not sure if it would help in this case, but now Chris (dr.B) is a tech @ Raisor Imports...

[LO-vw]

your cold start valve is either sticking open or you have it wired wrong and its on all the time, flooding the engine.

[LO-vw]

anyone recommend aimpoint over eotech? or vise versa?
Or have either for sale?
Looking to put on my ar

[heysuperman]

anyone recommend aimpoint over eotech? or vise versa?
Or have either for sale?
Looking to put on my ar

I really like my eotech. Just make sure you get one that uses AA's

Sent from my MB855 using Tapatalk 2

[OstTrefftWest]

No experience with Aimpoint, but I like my Bushnell Holosight (now discontinued; it's an Eotech without the extra shrouding). Mine isn't a AA model, but since I generally try to use iron sights on general principles anyway, my N-cells usually get old before I run them down.

EDIT: Also finally got a powder dispenser. I should now be fully equipped for reloading 9mm and .223/5.56. Now, to find the time to actually load some!

[blue70beetle]

your cold start valve is either sticking open or you have it wired wrong and its on all the time, flooding the engine.

I wondered about this...I can't imagine that it's wired wrong if it was just a straight swap from a donor car that shares the platform. If it's sticking open, that should be pretty easy to check. Just pull the cold start valve out of the intake, run the fuel pump, and see if it sprays or leaks fuel.

The thermo-time switch shouldn't allow the cold start valve to fire after you've cranked for about 8 seconds, or if the coolant is warm.

[blue70beetle]

Anyone have a need (or know of someone with a need) for a couple of ACVW carbs? Stock late '60s-'70, I have a Solex 30 PICT-2 and a 30 PICT-3. They're sitting in a box in my garage...they would have to be rebuilt before they're used on an engine, but that takes all of an hour.

$25 each

[Simmsled]

Anybody in Indianapolis (or close) have an M14 triple square I could use/borrow/buy?

Cash/beer reward!

Trying to get the wife's brakes done this weekend... before I have to go out of town.

[Foxtrot]

Anybody in Indianapolis (or close) have an M14 triple square I could use/borrow/buy?

Cash/beer reward!

Trying to get the wife's brakes done this weekend... before I have to go out of town.

I have the tool, but not near Indy...

You do realize Autozone, O'reiley's, and PepBoys all sell them for like $10 for a set of 4 (M6, M5, M10, and M12 I think)....

[blue70beetle]

Got to blast around the neighborhood on my XR today...holy carp, that thing is loud! The packing in the muffler must be gone. I took it down the street without the usual helmet (just got it out because I'm trying to clean a bunch of crap out of the garage) and the helmet really makes a big difference in terms of exhaust volume, because when I put it on, the bike seemed a lot quieter.

I have only ridden it once since I installed new tires because I always have to pick up kids after work. Now that they're going back to school, I'm hoping I'll get to ride to work, at least occasionally.

Oh, and fwiw, I still have the same gas in from a year ago, and it starts and runs fine. People seem to think year-old gas is no longer combustible or something.

[Foxtrot]

anyone recommend aimpoint over eotech? or vise versa?
Or have either for sale?
Looking to put on my ar

Depends on whether you want a red dot or a holo reticle. I personally like the Eotech over the aimpoint on the ones I've messed with. But, I hear battery life is better on the aimpoints and they are a bit lighter...

I'll throw this out there because it fits. For the price of a non-maginified eotech or aimpoint you can pick up a Vortex Strikefire red dot with a 3X swing away magnifier. It's got great reviews, and I'm really considering it for my AR... Especially since Jason's Bushnell has been discontinued.

[LO-vw]

I went to the gun show looking for red dots and that was a waste.
Saw a SCAR tho that I would love to pick up

I will have to look into the vortex, Im not a hardcore shooter and I like the idea of the setup above.

[LO-vw]

GRRR wish you didnt show me that 3x magnifier, now I want that with an eotech or aimpoint lol

[Foxtrot]

You mean like this... Vortex 3x and an EOTECH/Bushnell holo..



I'd mount it a little further foward if it were me ...

[LO-vw]

Haha ya, im going to go all in tho and get the eotech match set.

Problem is im close to Acog territory now :\ but I can never turn off the magnification. So kinda still diggin the eotech setup .

[Foxtrot]

For our local COMCAST individual....

My internet has been sucking again for the last week. Comcast been having server issues or doing repairs? My pings are way WAY high.





C:\Users\Foxxwoof>tracert comcast.com

Tracing route to comcast.com [69.241.45.4]
over a maximum of 30 hops:

1 <1 ms <1 ms <1 ms 192.168.1.1
2 69 ms 36 ms 29 ms 50.140.182.1
3 249 ms 194 ms 116 ms te-4-3-ur02.lafayette.in.indiana.comcast.net [68.86.186.93]
4 180 ms 191 ms 198 ms te-1-0-0-7-ar01.elmhurst.il.chicago.comcast.net [69.139.185.141]
5 265 ms 231 ms 231 ms pos-0-0-0-0-ar01.area4.il.chicago.comcast.net [68.87.230.233]
6 147 ms 184 ms 163 ms 68.86.91.33
7 124 ms 131 ms 123 ms pos-4-7-0-0-cr01.newyork.ny.ibone.comcast.net [68.86.88.157]
8 173 ms 179 ms 268 ms te-7-1-ar01.philadelphia.pa.bo.comcast.net [68.86.93.14]
9 66 ms 85 ms 85 ms te-1-1-ar02.philadelphia.pa.bo.comcast.net [68.85.215.178]
10 132 ms 139 ms 148 ms te-5-1-ar01.newcastle.de.bo.comcast.net [68.86.228.85]
11 186 ms 196 ms 194 ms te-0-3-0-0-ar01.westchester.pa.bo.comcast.net [68.86.228.81]
12 230 ms 232 ms 292 ms te-4-1-ur07.westchester.pa.bo.comcast.net [68.85.215.146]
13 145 ms 167 ms 193 ms wwwcomcast-vip.westchester.pa.bo.comcast.net [69.241.45.4]

Trace complete.

[heysuperman]

not that i know of.


is that behind the router or straight from the modem?

[Foxtrot]

not that i know of.


is that behind the router or straight from the modem?

Those are behind the router... but it's the same straight from the modem, the jitter is just a little lower, but the pings are as bad.

[heysuperman]

here's canada


france...this is why i play on U.S. servers for BF3

[Foxtrot]

We've been discussing it here in the house. We're planning on calling in tomorrow about the slow speeds. We've been having so much trouble with it lately...

[blue70beetle]

Us too...we just can't find time when we know someone will be at the house so I haven't called yet.

Any reason why every time my Internet service goes down, I go outside and disconnect / reconnect the feed into the splitter in the box outside my house and it comes right back up? Cycling power on the modem does nothing, and neither does sending a refresh signal to the modem, but disconnecting my house from cable and immediately reconnecting it works. Every. Single. Time.

And ours has been slow as balls for a little while but I haven't ever checked the speed - I just know things are running slow when they're running.

[heysuperman]

You guys both probably have voltage issues. Possible reasons are electrical equipment that is hooked up our boxes. Wiring issues in the home or the drop is bad.

Sent from my MB855 using Tapatalk 2

[gilsmak]

I wondered about this...I can't imagine that it's wired wrong if it was just a straight swap from a donor car that shares the platform. If it's sticking open, that should be pretty easy to check. Just pull the cold start valve out of the intake, run the fuel pump, and see if it sprays or leaks fuel.

The thermo-time switch shouldn't allow the cold start valve to fire after you've cranked for about 8 seconds, or if the coolant is warm.

Cold start valve is not in use. So it can not be flooding the engine. But thanks for the ideas.

I would appear that Jim has given up, so now I have to find another trailer and drive another 6 hours round trip for a car that he could have fixed over the last 6 weeks.

So who knows...but at least it will be here where someone can actually try.

[blue70beetle]

Not in use as in bolted in place and fuel line connected, but not connected electrically? Or is the whole cold start valve removed and the hole in the intake is blocked off? If the injector is installed and has a fuel line, it seems it could be leaking. And I can't recall a simple way to block off the fuel line to the cold start injector, although I've never looked for a way either. It's a pretty useful feature in cold weather.

Also, does CIS-E have a throttle closed switch, or just a WOT switch? If both, could the throttle closed switch not be making? As I recall, this switch overrides some of the ECU values so it will idle.

Or is it possible that the throttle switches were swapped? If so, the WOT input on the ECU is made and it's enriching the mixture.

[blue70beetle]

Not in use as in bolted in place and fuel line connected, but not connected electrically? Or is the whole cold start valve removed and the hole in the intake is blocked off? If the injector is installed and has a fuel line, it seems it could be leaking. And I can't recall a simple way to block off the fuel line to the cold start injector, although I've never looked for a way either. It's a pretty useful feature in cold weather.

Also, does CIS-E have a throttle closed switch, or just a WOT switch? If both, could the throttle closed switch not be making? As I recall, this switch overrides some of the ECU values so it will idle.

Or is it possible that the throttle switches were swapped? If so, the WOT input on the ECU is made and it's enriching the mixture.

[OstTrefftWest]

Wow, we're actually back to talking cars (at least part-time). I'll play, too. (Jeff, Eric, and Dr.B if you still lurk in here — this one's for you!)

I've got a recurring CEL for P1176 (Bank 1: OXS behind cat, control limit reached) and P1103 (oxygen sensor heating, performance too low, intermittent).

I know I've also got a small exhaust leak between the turbo and downpipe, which could potentially let in extra oxygen pre-cat. (Turns out a 3" downpipe leaves so little room at the flange that you can't get a socket around one of the nuts — drove the exhaust shop nuts to even get it halfway sealed!)

OTOH, my cat and O2 sensors are the nearly decade-old, 85K-mile originals.

What are the odds that the codes are related to the exhaust leak, rather than a defective part? And I've had this tiny leak for about 9 months — could I have actually wrecked one or both oxygen sensors by procrastinating?

[blue70beetle]

A leak can definitely let in extra air...my old '86 XJ had a cracked exhaust manifold (because '80s 4.0), and it ran very rich because the O2 sensor told it to.

I doubt a preheat circuit is related; the last two vehicles I sold had CELs on due to O2 preheat circuit. It just makes your ECU switch to closed loop a few minutes earlier, because an O2 sensor doesn't function until it hits about 600 degrees.

[Foxtrot]

I doubt a preheat circuit is related; the last two vehicles I sold had CELs on due to O2 preheat circuit. It just makes your ECU switch to closed loop a few minutes earlier, because an O2 sensor doesn't function until it hits about 600 degrees.

That's what I said as well... I was also thinking about the out of range code. If it was caused by the exhaust leak wouldn't both O2 sensors throw an out of range code. Not just the one behind the Cat.

I also highly doubt the exhaust leak would wreck the sensors. It would just throw their readings off a bit. If code P1103 is for precat O2 sensor you may just be at that time that both of them coincedentally went.

[OstTrefftWest]

Via Facebook, Dr. B also thinks it's probably legitimately a bad sensor. The P1103 doesn't say whether it's the pre- or post-cat sensor, but seems awfully unlikely that they'd both fail at the same time.

Good point that if the leak were the main problem, seems like both sensors would throw codes.

Got an appointment with the shop tomorrow to take one more crack at cinching up the DP to the turbo. After that, time to hit Potterman's for a new sensor (about $103 shipped for a Bosch no-splice; not as bad as I feared).

If this little leak doesn't go away, though, I'm tempted to get a different DP. NA Motorsports has the Autotech 2.5" on sale through Friday for about $170 -- $70 off. (It welds onto the stock cat.) Don't really want to redo that whole process, but tired of the coarse sound under heavy throttle, and the niggling sense that something isn't quite how it's supposed to be....

[Foxtrot]

I really hate this state! I really do!

I brought up my Mustang from GA over a year ago. The state of GA doesn't title vehicles over 25 years old, it just issues registrations. The last time the car was registered was in my mother's name in 1999. So, I tried to apply for title, this of course requires an affidavit of inspection from the police force since the car is from out of state. Which I obtained without any issue in November of last year. (the officer came out inspeced the car, signed off, and was very pleasant.) I then took all my info down to the BMV in December, who told me that they would not title the car because my mother's name was on the registration. (even though I had a plethora of paperwork showing that the car was mine and that I had paid for it in 1996). Fine so my mother sends me a bill of sale in the mail for $1 selling me my car back at the end of January....

Fast foward to today. I went to title the car at the BMV thinking I had all the appropriate paperwork. They once again sent me away because at the end of last the the paperwork for the affidavit inspection has changed and they no longer accept the old form.

I called the state police post with the new form in hand. The dispatcher asks me if the car is 100% functional. I told her I was unsure as it was a project car. She informs me that the car must be inspected for function. I told her I had never had to do that before with any other vehicle I had brought from of state. She was very nice and said she would transfer me to the watch commander. I stated the same thing to him, basically asking if the car was a project car and incomplete how would one title it? He was a CLASS A ******* on the phone to me. Basically told me that wasn't his problem that I should take that up with the BMV, and possible title the car as salvage (you wouldn't salvage title a classic car, that's ludicrous) He stated had been doing this for 24 years and copping all sorts of attitude with me on the phone because I dared to question anything he said. He said the wipers, lights, horn.. must all function, so now I need to replace a bunch of bulbs and buy a new horn contact for the steering wheel.

What the hell is wrong with this state. I have been trying to title this car for over a year so that I can just ****ing sell it!!!!! The car is 95% of the way there to full function, but that's not the point....