Castrol Edge 5W40

[corradoauza]

Has anyone tried using it. The dealer by my house is selling it for ten bucks a quart? Is it worth it and is there anywhere else I can get this stuff?

[saaber2]

Have not seen any used Oil Anlayses (UOAs) of it yet. What engine do you want to run it in? Most PAO-based 502 oils all look about the same in terms of used oil analysis testing for the 2.0 FSI. Until we see some edge UOAs it's hard to say it is any better or contains less viscosity modifiers or better basestocks than typical castrol 502 oils. For $10 a quart you can buy some top-end ester oils like redline. The ester based oils are outperforming typical VW 502 oils in fuel diluting motors such as the 2.0 FSI. See the recently posted used oil analysis by rhouse as an example (Posted in this subforum).

The natural multi-grade capability of esters often allows manufacturers to use less viscosity modifiers. Viscosity modifiers are the parts that break apart (shear) when highly stressed or in the presence of fuel dilution. These sheared viscosity modifiers are very volatile and are thought by many to be one of the primary components responsible for valve deposits in engines like the 2.0 FSI. Often viscosity modifiers are used to meet MPG targets or CAFE standards but may not be the best choice in terms of wear, shear, long drain capability (oils's ability to fight corrosive acids), etc. Other ester-based oils are Renewable lubricants Biosyn, Motul 300V, and Motul x-lite 0w30.

[Bikerboy324]

Nope def. not worth it , anything that the dealer sells is always overpriced.
Just head to your local auto parts shop they could have it for about 8 bucks a quart if you really want to try it .
Doesn't hurt to try

[corradoauza]

Well after some looking and asking, it still seems that only the dealer has the 5W40 grade. Went to the Castrol Edge website and did some perusing and have come to the conclusion that the only oil grades available to the wholesale retailers(Autozone, PepBoys, etc...) is 5W30 and 10W30. They retail at about $8.49/quart. In any case, come next oil change I am definitely gonna try this stuff. Seems this stuff really does have Mobil1 beat.

[RayMkIIIvdub]

i drive a 95 jetta vr6 i currently running mobil 1 10w-40 but i been hearing alot of good things about this new castrol edge thinking about switching to the 5w-40....im hoping i feel a difference

[BsickPassat]

Has anyone tried using it. The dealer by my house is selling it for ten bucks a quart? Is it worth it and is there anywhere else I can get this stuff?

Castrol Edge 5w40 (Euro label) = Castrol Syntec 5w40 (US label)

[animaniac]

You'le never see that oil cheap in the uk, castrols too overpriced.

I'm using the vw502 rated carlube triple R 5w/40 fully syn, which is at least half the price of this stuff.

[Bikerboy324]

I actually just got some castrol edge for 30 bucks with a filter. Just put the oil in my car lets see how it takes it

[AudiSportA4]

I'm trying Edge 5w-30 in my 2.0T TSI for a short run this winter. Shouldn't be in long enough to thin from fuel dillution. It seemed to work great in this 1.8t...



I'm not sure the poster is talking about an oil we even get in the USA.

[Bikerboy324]

I'm trying Edge 5w-30 in my 2.0T TSI for a short run this winter. Shouldn't be in long enough to thin from fuel dillution. It seemed to work great in this 1.8t...

I'm not sure the poster is talking about an oil we even get in the USA.

Thats exactly what I'm trying ... when i changed my oil mine actually got thin from fuel dillution so I'm glad I changed it =]

[AudiSportA4]

I think I saw your post about Edge. I just put in Quaker State Q HorsePower 10w-30, which is thin, but I added a slug of old Valvoline SynPower Oil Treatment to thicken it a bit, plus adds moly, calcium, boron and even antimony. QHP is a high-moly oil anyway, so the VSOT won't clash with anything.

Anyway, it runs SUPER-well on this oil. It's a short break-in run, so it'll get drained before it thins at all.
However, my point it that the thinner oil seems very do-able.

How's the Edge running anyway, nice and light I bet.

[Bikerboy324]

I think I saw your post about Edge. I just put in Quaker State Q HorsePower 10w-30, which is thin, but I added a slug of old Valvoline SynPower Oil Treatment to thicken it a bit, plus adds moly, calcium, boron and even antimony. QHP is a high-moly oil anyway, so the VSOT won't clash with anything.

Anyway, it runs SUPER-well on this oil. It's a short break-in run, so it'll get drained before it thins at all.
However, my point it that the thinner oil seems very do-able.

How's the Edge running anyway, nice and light I bet.

Oh wow never tried Quaker State. How is it running for you with the addictives?

Yea just couple days its been in my engine and it feels good

[AudiSportA4]

Quaker State is a sleeper oil. Lots of moly is always a good bet in Euro engines. It is a lot slicker and thinner then the RP 15w-40, so I am happy. I'll only be using it for a short oci until the Edge goes in.

fwiw, there are a lot of good synth oils. The only one I had a problem with is Mobil 1 5w-30. High consumption and high wear. Most are on a par, but some brands have unique products. German Syntec, Mobil 1 HiMiles and 0w-40, SynPower uses a lot of organic additives. Some are better in cold, and some don't burn off as fast. QS is a good basic formula with a lot of moly, that is an expensive additive. Other brands use boron esters, antimony and the the newest additive, liquid titanium is what Kendall (Conoco) uses, it's no joke. (Motorcraft makes a great dino oil)

http://www.conocophillipslubricants....m.aspx#/Videos

So, a lot of personal subjectives go into a oil choice, also a lot of data. I use all different brands.

http://www.pqiamerica.com/testresults3a.html

[gehr]

I've heard it's bad to use different oils all the time, interactions with the different ingredients and what not, truth or fiction. And if its fiction, what possible advantage could there be and why do it anyway, if you find a good oil why change at all?

[Bikerboy324]

Quaker State is a sleeper oil. Lots of moly is always a good bet in Euro engines. It is a lot slicker and thinner then the RP 15w-40, so I am happy. I'll only be using it for a short oci until the Edge goes in.

fwiw, there are a lot of good synth oils. The only one I had a problem with is Mobil 1 5w-30. High consumption and high wear. Most are on a par, but some brands have unique products. German Syntec, Mobil 1 HiMiles and 0w-40, SynPower uses a lot of organic additives. Some are better in cold, and some don't burn off as fast. QS is a good basic formula with a lot of moly, that is an expensive additive. Other brands use boron esters, antimony and the the newest additive, liquid titanium is what Kendall (Conoco) uses, it's no joke. (Motorcraft makes a great dino oil)

http://www.conocophillipslubricants....m.aspx#/Videos

So, a lot of personal subjectives go into a oil choice, also a lot of data. I use all different brands.

http://www.pqiamerica.com/testresults3a.html

Yea, its always good to find out from yourself
Mobil one didnt go well with me as i was burning oil really fast it and my engine wasn't feeling it
I tend to use different brands also as i recently tried royal purple

[BsickPassat]

Quaker State is a sleeper oil. Lots of moly is always a good bet in Euro engines. It is a lot slicker and thinner then the RP 15w-40, so I am happy. I'll only be using it for a short oci until the Edge goes in.

Throw in Pennzoil also. Especially the Platinum.

Then again, Pennzoil & Quaker State are a single company

[AudiSportA4]

All oils are compatible, that's part of the API cert. Most additives are used in most oi8ls, it just comes down to proportions. I've seen UOA from frankenbrews and they comes out fine. This is another thing I was wrong about years ago and learned otherwise. Purists who use only one oil may not be doing the best service, as one oil can possibly clean up deposits that other brand leaves behind. I try to use the same oil for all 3 changes in a year, on the same filter.

[gehr]

You don't change your filter every oil change............or am I reading that wrong!?

[AudiSportA4]

No, I don't change it. OEM filters say "2 years/30,000km" on them. A number of mfgs recommend two oil changes per filter change as well. Cut open a "used" filter and you are likely to find almost nothing in the media. New engine controls mean very clean running and low contaminates into the oil. Filters also become more efficient when in use, filtering progressively finer particles as the larger pores get filled up and flow is diverted to other areas. There is essentially zero risk as the filter will go into bypass at any point flow does become restricted.

I simply remove, drain and re-install the partly used filter. I'm open to suggestions otherwise, but remember, I'm changing oil every 3-5k anyway.

[gehr]

I think that's silly......but it's your engine!


To me $10 extra is worth it, you seem to be the one all hung up on oil quality and what not, I just find it strange.

[AudiSportA4]

Again, it's not strange, it's the recommended service procedure on some makes of automobiles. You just haven't heard of it yet.

What I consider strange is THROWING OUT a perfectly good filter at only 25% of it's lifespan.

Maybe if you said why you have a problem with it, it'd make for a better discussion.

[gehr]

We'll agree to disagree...........I also don't follow Manufactures guildlines for fuel filter, timing chain and spark plug replacement either! Tell me I'm wrong!

[AudiSportA4]

I can't really comment because of the lack of specificity in your post. If you don't observe the recommended interval, is it that you do shorter, longer or not at all...and why?

[AudiSportA4]

Not every service item has an identical effect. Changing air filters early, for instance, is a bad idea since new filters do a poor job at catching the finest particles. It's after they become loaded that they become most efficient. otoh, I can see swapping out spark plugs before 110k, like Honda's Ir plugs. I took mine out and cleaned+re-gapped them at 50k...to good effect. So, it's best to have a clue to the effect before doing services just to make yourself feel good.

[gehr]

So, it's best to have a clue to the effect before doing services.

And you're say you do? You think a dirty filter is better than a clean one!? And you only pulled your plugs at 50,000 miles!?!

You say lots of things like they are fact but saying it doesn't make it so!

[AudiSportA4]

I don't think a dirty filter is better, I know.

[halphp]

I'm new here, so I may not know too much,but I'd like to learn more.

I own a 2010 A4 prestige and I have had one oil change at my dealer. That occurred at 5100 miles. I had to add one quart of Castrol syntec 5/40 at 2600 miles. Since the change at 5100 miles , I added 3/4 quart at 6200 miles. That might have occurred because the dealer didn't top it off.
Should I purchase a dip stick to measure , rather than rely on the electronic gauge?
My dealer says the oil consumption will ease off by 20000 miles. What do you people think? Thanks for your help!

[dubbinmk2]

it doesn't have a dip stick? come on

[AudiSportA4]

No, no dipstick.

[gehr]

It has a dipstick........it just sits in the drivers seat in his case!

[BsickPassat]

it doesn't have a dip stick? come on

It's true... audi is phasing out dipsticks on their engines, leaving only an electronic level.

[jmj]

It has a dipstick........it just sits in the drivers seat in his case!

lol

[IndyTTom]

I don't think a dirty filter is better, I know.

This Guy is soooo Funny! I bet he thinks "High" Cholestoral is better for the heart or that Nyquil makes great Pina Coladas.
Also he is wasting more money on oil by changing it every 3k miles rather than spring a few bucks for a new oil filter. How does that make any sense? I have never heard of changing the oil and not the filter. Must be a new European thing where they believe anything they hear or read.
A mind is a terrible thing to waste, lucky for this guy he isn't wasting much.

[JohnStamos]

This Guy is soooo Funny! I bet he thinks "High" Cholestoral is better for the heart or that Nyquil makes great Pina Coladas.
Also he is wasting more money on oil by changing it every 3k miles rather than spring a few bucks for a new oil filter. How does that make any sense? I have never heard of changing the oil and not the filter. Must be a new European thing where they believe anything they hear or read.
A mind is a terrible thing to waste, lucky for this guy he isn't wasting much.

He's not wrong... It's the truth. Might wanna rethink yourself before trying to insult someone, when you have no idea what you are talking about.


And MANY OEM's only call for changing the filter every 2-3 oil changes. By saying you have never heard of/seen a car as such, just means you have no experience with high end vehicles. There is NO reason to change the filter, if it is NOWHERE near the end of its life. Some vehicles take 30-45 mins to replace a filter that costs $20-30. Running a good syn, on proper intervals, at the right grade, in a fresh engine, with a good PCV setup, makes for very little contamination, and leaves no advantage to changing it.

And yes, a mildy dirty paper filter will filter MUCH better then a fresh filter, this isn't rocket science.





P.S. Cotton gauze filters that are considered "upgrades" on many vehicles, filter TERRIBLE when clean, and once slightly dirty (Read 3-400 miles) flow WORSE then a paper filter, and filter worse as well.




This forum is insane. Why do half of you come in here and give advice, when you don't understand the basics?

[gmikel]

He's not wrong... It's the truth. Might wanna rethink yourself before trying to insult someone, when you have no idea what you are talking about.


And MANY OEM's only call for changing the filter every 2-3 oil changes. By saying you have never heard of/seen a car as such, just means you have no experience with high end vehicles. There is NO reason to change the filter, if it is NOWHERE near the end of its life. Some vehicles take 30-45 mins to replace a filter that costs $20-30. Running a good syn, on proper intervals, at the right grade, in a fresh engine, with a good PCV setup, makes for very little contamination, and leaves no advantage to changing it.

And yes, a mildy dirty paper filter will filter MUCH better then a fresh filter, this isn't rocket science.





P.S. Cotton gauze filters that are considered "upgrades" on many vehicles, filter TERRIBLE when clean, and once slightly dirty (Read 3-400 miles) flow WORSE then a paper filter, and filter worse as well.




This forum is insane. Why do half of you come in here and give advice, when you don't understand the basics?

which oem's recomend changing the filter every 2 or 3 changes? and there is a reason audisport and all his user names have been banned both here and on bitog. sometimes he's right for sure, but when he's not, don't even dare suggest it.