Well done!
#1
I spent a lot of time on this, I hope it will be helpful. This is the guide I put together to be used in conjunction with a kit I put together. I did the install on both a AWP and AWD motor. There are slight variations in the vac lines, but the instructions indicate which motor is in the picture. If I am missing anything, please let me know.
Engine codes this write up has worked on (if you have a engine not listed and this has worked for you, let me know and I will add it to the list:
AWP
AWD
AUQ
AWW
AWM
I will make you a kit if you are interested. PM me for details.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...2#post64471922
For those who want to piece the kit together, here is what I used:
- Integrated Engineering Block Plate
- 4 10w 330OHM Resistors
- 8 feet of 3/4" Hose
- 4 feet of 1/2" Hose
- 4 feet of 5/32" vac line
- 2 3/4" 90 degree PCV Elbows
- 1 3/4" PCV "T"
- 12 Medium Hose Clamps
- 6 Small Hose Clamps
- 1 Pack of Assorted Small Vacuum Caps
- 1 Pack of Large Assorted Vacuum Caps
- 1 Homebrew Catch Can
- G12 Coolant
Optional (While your in there) Parts:
- Coolant neck: Automatic Transmissions: 06A 121 133 AH Manual Transmissions: 06A 121 132 AP
- Newsouth Performance Power Gasket, or stock intake manifold gasket
*Now is also a REALLY good time to install a oil pressure sender using the port on top of the filter housing to use an aftermarket gauge.
Tools Needed:
- Gloves
- Flathead Screwdriver
- Set of allen wrenches, or allen bits for your socket wrench (5mm, 5.5mm, 8mm, some other may be needed)
- Socket Set (8mm, 10mm, some others may be needed)
- Cutters
- Soldering Iron
- Solder
- Electrical Tape
- Zip Ties
- Jack and a Jack Stand (to be safe)
**Disclaimer** - I am not responsible for any damage done to the vehicle or yourself by performing this modification. I am simply collecting all the items needed and providing them to you as a convenience. Most states require the emissions systems on your vehicle and removing them could cause your car to violate your state's emissions laws. That being said:
GOOD LUCK!!
Finished product:
![]()
Last edited by nstevic01; 01-29-2013 at 11:14 AM.
#3
#6
how is readiness handled with these modifications? I need to pass inspection in NYS.
#7
#8
Can I remove the blue balls without any reprocussion? I'm been trying to remove useless junk in my engine bay and i already have capped off the one on the valve cover. (Doing this without removing evap)
#10
Awesome guide! Thanks for taking the time to create it.
Shark Performance STS Stage 2 Corrida Red 2004 Octavia vRS Estate - It's the bestest Skoda in New Zealand!
Car's Facebook Page
Whaia te mātauranga, whaia te māramatanga - Pursue knowledge, pursue the wisdom of knowledge
#12
Add this to the faq, along with sav's diy even a moron should be able to complete this.
You should add a not to stick some paper towels in the intake ports so you don't accidentally drop anything down into your engine![]()
CTS 3076 kit, CTS 750hp FMIC, CM FX400, 2L, AEB, RMR IM, Raxles, Eurodyne, 870's...
Vag Scans, pm me
#13
awesome write-up; clears up alot of the ?s ppl had with the other write-ups. this needs to be stickied. and PLS try to keep your pics hosted so they dont disappear from this write-up, since it's pic-based.
well donex12 for u.
#14
for a programmer that cancels the emissions CELs, eurodyne maestro you can delete them yourself so they never pop up again, and I know APR will do it if your Stage 3+ but thats it.
If anyone finds a tuner that will do it for them let us know!
Amazing DIY.
#15
#17
#19
#21
Words cannot describe..
Best DIY, ever?
Thank you so much for putting down the effort to get this done and help others. If I do this sometime soon, I'm going to pay you for the kit (which I assume is slightly marked up?) to reward you.
One thing though, I was hoping there would be some kind of panoramic shot of the engine bay from above to show the difference in the completed product.
#22
mad nice. good write up. what codes am i going to get for this? will improper flow dick with my CEL?
#23
Good write up…… but change that valve cover gasket it’s a strait forward and simple job
#24
Yes the kits are slightly marked up, but not by a whole lot. I have 2 left of the first batch and may do more if people want them. I will get the shot for you this weekend.
Depends, if you dont have software to delete the CAT, you will prob get one for that, and you may or may not get the one for improper flow for the EVAP flow regulator.
Already changed, my car is the one with the blue TIP![]()
#25
#26
Here's a pic of my car (the one with the red tip from the diy) sorry my phone doesn't take great pictures.. and btw my VC gasket had been replaced a few times, i just have a dirty engine.
![]()
#29
Thanks for the pics! Is the engine noticeably free-er to work in? Im doing some turbo work and nothing pisses me off more so than these stupid vacuum lines (mainly the ones on the drivers side of the block that you have to snake the oil feed line around)
#30
#31
Great writeup, but that rusty brown looking coolant coming out in some of the pics doesn't look so good.
![]()
#32
Yeah, that wasn't my car though. The car had a auto to manual tranny swap and the guy who did it capped off the hardline to coolant neck ports, so im not sure if that led to the nastyness. I fixed that for him when we did the install, you can see the handywork of elbows, clamps, and small hose bits.
Last edited by nstevic01; 06-06-2010 at 07:06 PM.
#33
How did you get the 3/4 heater hose over the valve cover pcv outlet. I tryed heating it up/lube it just won't go.![]()
#34
That was probably the best DIY I've seen to date. My only question is, does it directly apply to an 2002 Audi TT 225Q? I believe it has a different engine code even though it is very similar.
What would be different?
Thanks!
#35