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Thread: DIY: Ultimate SAI/N249/PCV/EVAP Delete

  1. Member nstevic01's Avatar
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    05-20-2010 09:25 AM #1
    I spent a lot of time on this, I hope it will be helpful. This is the guide I put together to be used in conjunction with a kit I put together. I did the install on both a AWP and AWD motor. There are slight variations in the vac lines, but the instructions indicate which motor is in the picture. If I am missing anything, please let me know.

    Engine codes this write up has worked on (if you have a engine not listed and this has worked for you, let me know and I will add it to the list:

    AWP
    AWD
    AUQ
    AWW
    AWM


    I will make you a kit if you are interested. PM me for details.
    http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...2#post64471922

    For those who want to piece the kit together, here is what I used:

    - Integrated Engineering Block Plate
    - 4 10w 330OHM Resistors
    - 8 feet of 3/4" Hose
    - 4 feet of 1/2" Hose
    - 4 feet of 5/32" vac line
    - 2 3/4" 90 degree PCV Elbows
    - 1 3/4" PCV "T"
    - 12 Medium Hose Clamps
    - 6 Small Hose Clamps
    - 1 Pack of Assorted Small Vacuum Caps
    - 1 Pack of Large Assorted Vacuum Caps
    - 1 Homebrew Catch Can
    - G12 Coolant


    Optional (While your in there) Parts:

    - Coolant neck: Automatic Transmissions: 06A 121 133 AH Manual Transmissions: 06A 121 132 AP
    - Newsouth Performance Power Gasket, or stock intake manifold gasket
    *Now is also a REALLY good time to install a oil pressure sender using the port on top of the filter housing to use an aftermarket gauge.


    Tools Needed:

    - Gloves
    - Flathead Screwdriver
    - Set of allen wrenches, or allen bits for your socket wrench (5mm, 5.5mm, 8mm, some other may be needed)
    - Socket Set (8mm, 10mm, some others may be needed)
    - Cutters
    - Soldering Iron
    - Solder
    - Electrical Tape
    - Zip Ties
    - Jack and a Jack Stand (to be safe)

    **Disclaimer** - I am not responsible for any damage done to the vehicle or yourself by performing this modification. I am simply collecting all the items needed and providing them to you as a convenience. Most states require the emissions systems on your vehicle and removing them could cause your car to violate your state's emissions laws. That being said:

    GOOD LUCK!!












































































































    Finished product:

    Last edited by nstevic01; 01-29-2013 at 11:14 AM.

  2. Member Andaloons's Avatar
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    05-20-2010 09:38 AM #2
    Well done!

  3. Member nstevic01's Avatar
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    05-20-2010 09:43 AM #3
    Quote Originally Posted by Andaloons View Post
    Well done!
    Thanks! Took forever, but it feels good to have it done.

  4. Member NOLA_VDubber's Avatar
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    05-20-2010 10:03 AM #4
    Quote Originally Posted by nstevic01 View Post
    Thanks! Took forever, but it feels good to have it done.
    Very impressive!

  5. Member sounrealx's Avatar
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    05-20-2010 11:55 AM #5
    "ultimate" delete is right. Good job!

  6. Member bpfoley's Avatar
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    05-20-2010 01:14 PM #6
    how is readiness handled with these modifications? I need to pass inspection in NYS.

  7. Member nstevic01's Avatar
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    05-20-2010 02:02 PM #7
    Quote Originally Posted by bpfoley View Post
    how is readiness handled with these modifications? I need to pass inspection in NYS.
    Without proper programming, you most likely wont be able to pass. I'm not sure which of the ECU programmers offer that.

  8. Junior Member
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    05-20-2010 02:21 PM #8
    Can I remove the blue balls without any reprocussion? I'm been trying to remove useless junk in my engine bay and i already have capped off the one on the valve cover. (Doing this without removing evap)

  9. Member nstevic01's Avatar
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    05-20-2010 02:31 PM #9
    Quote Originally Posted by kendaliscool08 View Post
    Can I remove the blue balls without any reprocussion? I'm been trying to remove useless junk in my engine bay and i already have capped off the one on the valve cover. (Doing this without removing evap)
    The blue balls are hidden and weigh nothing. IIRC they are required for the EVAP to function properly and not throw codes (since you want to keep the EVAP). You really would only want to remove them if you were doing this entire delete.
    Last edited by nstevic01; 05-20-2010 at 02:57 PM.

  10. Junior Member RobClubley's Avatar
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    05-20-2010 02:33 PM #10
    Awesome guide! Thanks for taking the time to create it.
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  11. Member waabaah's Avatar
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    05-20-2010 06:18 PM #11
    bump for later reference

  12. Member hootyburra's Avatar
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    05-21-2010 12:10 AM #12
    Add this to the faq, along with sav's diy even a moron should be able to complete this.

    You should add a not to stick some paper towels in the intake ports so you don't accidentally drop anything down into your engine
    CTS 3076 kit, CTS 750hp FMIC, CM FX400, 2L, AEB, RMR IM, Raxles, Eurodyne, 870's...

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  13. Member turbo2205's Avatar
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    05-21-2010 12:21 AM #13
    awesome write-up; clears up alot of the ?s ppl had with the other write-ups. this needs to be stickied. and PLS try to keep your pics hosted so they dont disappear from this write-up, since it's pic-based.

    well done x12 for u.

  14. 05-22-2010 06:44 AM #14
    for a programmer that cancels the emissions CELs, eurodyne maestro you can delete them yourself so they never pop up again, and I know APR will do it if your Stage 3+ but thats it.

    If anyone finds a tuner that will do it for them let us know!


    Amazing DIY.

  15. Member nstevic01's Avatar
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    05-22-2010 10:48 AM #15
    Quote Originally Posted by Alex's_GLI View Post
    for a programmer that cancels the emissions CELs, eurodyne maestro you can delete them yourself so they never pop up again, and I know APR will do it if your Stage 3+ but thats it.

    If anyone finds a tuner that will do it for them let us know!


    Amazing DIY.
    Eurodyne Maestro 7 is $899.99 Although for what you can do with it, it seems worth it.

  16. 05-22-2010 08:00 PM #16
    Very good write up

  17. Banned dubinsincuwereindiapers's Avatar
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    05-22-2010 08:18 PM #17
    Quote Originally Posted by nstevic01 View Post
    Eurodyne Maestro 7 is $899.99 Although for what you can do with it, it seems worth it.
    Worth every dime.. Even on a stock turbo setup

  18. 05-24-2010 01:00 AM #18
    Is it safe to remove the pcv valve?

  19. Member nstevic01's Avatar
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    05-24-2010 09:28 AM #19
    Quote Originally Posted by Tacosupreme View Post
    Is it safe to remove the pcv valve?
    If you are talking about this piece, it stays. Only other "stock" piece that remains is the Brake booster check valve.


  20. Member Henni's Avatar
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    05-27-2010 06:38 PM #20
    Great write up!

  21. 05-28-2010 01:18 AM #21
    Words cannot describe..
    Best DIY, ever?

    Thank you so much for putting down the effort to get this done and help others. If I do this sometime soon, I'm going to pay you for the kit (which I assume is slightly marked up?) to reward you.

    One thing though, I was hoping there would be some kind of panoramic shot of the engine bay from above to show the difference in the completed product.

  22. Member lamarvannoy's Avatar
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    05-28-2010 03:24 AM #22
    mad nice. good write up. what codes am i going to get for this? will improper flow dick with my CEL?

  23. Member talx's Avatar
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    05-28-2010 04:19 AM #23
    Good write up …… but change that valve cover gasket it’s a strait forward and simple job

  24. Member nstevic01's Avatar
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    05-28-2010 07:55 AM #24
    Quote Originally Posted by ParanoidPJK View Post
    Words cannot describe..
    Best DIY, ever?

    Thank you so much for putting down the effort to get this done and help others. If I do this sometime soon, I'm going to pay you for the kit (which I assume is slightly marked up?) to reward you.

    One thing though, I was hoping there would be some kind of panoramic shot of the engine bay from above to show the difference in the completed product.
    Yes the kits are slightly marked up, but not by a whole lot. I have 2 left of the first batch and may do more if people want them. I will get the shot for you this weekend.


    Quote Originally Posted by lamarvannoy View Post
    mad nice. good write up. what codes am i going to get for this? will improper flow dick with my CEL?

    Depends, if you dont have software to delete the CAT, you will prob get one for that, and you may or may not get the one for improper flow for the EVAP flow regulator.

    Quote Originally Posted by talx View Post
    Good write up …… but change that valve cover gasket it’s a strait forward and simple job

    Already changed, my car is the one with the blue TIP

  25. 05-29-2010 03:37 PM #25
    Quote Originally Posted by nstevic01 View Post
    Yes the kits are slightly marked up, but not by a whole lot. I have 2 left of the first batch and may do more if people want them. I will get the shot for you this weekend.
    Excellent! Yeah, if you find yourself bored and with a camera I'd love to see the shot sometime. Thanks again for the thorough, idiot proof write-up.

  26. Member sounrealx's Avatar
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    05-30-2010 10:47 AM #26
    Here's a pic of my car (the one with the red tip from the diy) sorry my phone doesn't take great pictures.. and btw my VC gasket had been replaced a few times, i just have a dirty engine.


  27. Member nstevic01's Avatar
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    05-30-2010 04:53 PM #27
    And here is mine, the other car from the DIY


  28. Member sounrealx's Avatar
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    05-30-2010 06:47 PM #28
    way to 1-up me with your super camera

  29. 06-04-2010 04:41 PM #29
    Thanks for the pics! Is the engine noticeably free-er to work in? Im doing some turbo work and nothing pisses me off more so than these stupid vacuum lines (mainly the ones on the drivers side of the block that you have to snake the oil feed line around)

  30. Member nstevic01's Avatar
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    06-05-2010 08:40 PM #30
    Quote Originally Posted by ParanoidPJK View Post
    Thanks for the pics! Is the engine noticeably free-er to work in? Im doing some turbo work and nothing pisses me off more so than these stupid vacuum lines (mainly the ones on the drivers side of the block that you have to snake the oil feed line around)
    Honestly, working in the bay has become noticeably easier. Things are alot easier to get to, and leasks are easier to pinpoint.

  31. Member White Jetta's Avatar
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    Why don't you take a seat over there
    06-06-2010 06:32 PM #31
    Great writeup, but that rusty brown looking coolant coming out in some of the pics doesn't look so good.


  32. Member nstevic01's Avatar
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    06-06-2010 07:03 PM #32
    Quote Originally Posted by White Jetta View Post
    Great writeup, but that rusty brown looking coolant coming out in some of the pics doesn't look so good.


    Yeah, that wasn't my car though. The car had a auto to manual tranny swap and the guy who did it capped off the hardline to coolant neck ports, so im not sure if that led to the nastyness. I fixed that for him when we did the install, you can see the handywork of elbows, clamps, and small hose bits.
    Last edited by nstevic01; 06-06-2010 at 07:06 PM.

  33. Member Budsdubbin's Avatar
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    06-15-2010 10:27 AM #33
    How did you get the 3/4 heater hose over the valve cover pcv outlet. I tryed heating it up/lube it just won't go.

  34. Member surfinsk8r's Avatar
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    06-15-2010 01:00 PM #34
    That was probably the best DIY I've seen to date. My only question is, does it directly apply to an 2002 Audi TT 225Q? I believe it has a different engine code even though it is very similar.
    What would be different?
    Thanks!

  35. Member nstevic01's Avatar
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    06-15-2010 03:32 PM #35
    Quote Originally Posted by Budsdubbin View Post
    How did you get the 3/4 heater hose over the valve cover pcv outlet. I tryed heating it up/lube it just won't go.
    It goes on, you just gotta work it. Out of the 2 I have done, it really only took me a couple of seconds to pop it on. Perhaps you broke off the reducer/checkvalve like I did in the pic with it wrapped in electrical tape?

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