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Thread: DIY: Ultimate SAI/N249/PCV/EVAP Delete

  1. Member nstevic01's Avatar
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    06-15-2010 03:34 PM #36
    Quote Originally Posted by surfinsk8r View Post
    That was probably the best DIY I've seen to date. My only question is, does it directly apply to an 2002 Audi TT 225Q? I believe it has a different engine code even though it is very similar.
    What would be different?
    Thanks!
    I can't tell you 100% This DIY was done on a AWP and AWD motor. The hose routing is pretty much universal. How and what to remove varies with each car.

  2. Member Henni's Avatar
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    06-15-2010 04:36 PM #37
    I just did it earlier this week and I have an AWW engine. It is very close minus a few vac. ports.

    I am sure that these engines will be very similar. I would cap off the extra ports that still hold vac. and run everything straight to the manifold.

    I like the difference that I am seeing in my car now. I didn't realize that I had some lines that were busted underneath my intake manifold causing vac. leaks and it a bit messy underneath from some oil coming out.

    Thanks for an amazing write up!! It really helped.

  3. Member Budsdubbin's Avatar
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    06-15-2010 09:59 PM #38
    the one going to the valve cover will not go on with 3/4ths heater I even tryed warming it up.

  4. Member Henni's Avatar
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    06-16-2010 07:20 AM #39
    get some silicone and grease it up. I had a bit of difficulity, but it will work.

    it's like sex. You have to work w/ it, it'll go in.

  5. Member filthyillness's Avatar
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    06-16-2010 10:36 AM #40
    bump for greatness. awesome, detailed diy. got a pdf file for this? too many pictures to print or copy paste into word. lol

  6. Member surfinsk8r's Avatar
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    06-16-2010 11:13 AM #41
    Quote Originally Posted by flodubba View Post
    bump for greatness. awesome, detailed diy. got a pdf file for this? too many pictures to print or copy paste into word. lol
    I have it all in a word doc w/ each picture resized to the page

  7. Member nstevic01's Avatar
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    06-16-2010 01:01 PM #42
    Quote Originally Posted by flodubba View Post
    bump for greatness. awesome, detailed diy. got a pdf file for this? too many pictures to print or copy paste into word. lol
    I do have a PDF version that I included with my kits. I have it in 1 file, and a 6 file version depending on your email provider's attachment limit.

    Send me some emails and Ill try and send it out.

  8. 06-17-2010 03:45 PM #43
    Does ANYONE know the part number for the "T" that fits in between the 3 hoses highlighted here?



    I broke the nipple off while trying to replace the hose from the manifold to this "T" fitting because of a leak and need to pick this part up TODAY if possible!

    Also, does anyone know if the leak that was and still is there would be hurting my max psi?
    Last edited by TurboLover03; 06-17-2010 at 03:48 PM.

  9. Member sounrealx's Avatar
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    06-18-2010 12:43 AM #44
    Any leak will hurt your AFR trims, and max psi. You should be able to use a plastic t connector found at any auto parts store.

  10. 06-18-2010 08:34 AM #45
    Thanks for the reply to my question,

    I think that's what I'm going to have to try because I went to the dealer and they could NOT find the equivalent part! After looking at their diagram for about 10 minutes and talking about it we finally found the PCV system on a DIFFERENT diagram . He showed me the "part" that I would have to buy and its $180! Its that whole system of piping including hard pipe and their connectors. They were very friendly but said it doesn't look like they sell just the T fitting anymore. I have an AWD engine code and the more I thought about it the more I think that the OEM equipment for my vehicle is different then what they now sell in their parts... the two hoses that intersect the same T fitting that are NOT broken off both have hose clamps on them. Can anyone else confirm that not all engine codes have the 'all-in-one' hose mess as a single part?

    To the OP this is probably the best write-up I've seen on Vortex. Every detail photographed and explained thoroughly. Thank you for this!

  11. Member sounrealx's Avatar
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    06-18-2010 10:16 AM #46
    awd's have slightly different hose routing, and i know what you mean about them being confused at the dealer because they were looking at an AWW/AWP diagram. I sold my n249 assembly or i'd take a picture for you, but good luck

  12. 06-18-2010 11:49 AM #47
    Quote Originally Posted by sounrealx View Post
    awd's have slightly different hose routing, and i know what you mean about them being confused at the dealer because they were looking at an AWW/AWP diagram. I sold my n249 assembly or i'd take a picture for you, but good luck
    Another good info reply... thank you good sir. That's encouraging too... so what you're basically confirming is there IS indeed a 'T' connector there for the AWD engines? It seems to me there is but it sounds like you have some further experience to confirm that.

    Thanks a lot man.

  13. Member reflected's Avatar
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    06-19-2010 06:06 AM #48
    Quote Originally Posted by Alex's_GLI View Post
    for a programmer that cancels the emissions CELs, eurodyne maestro you can delete them yourself so they never pop up again, and I know APR will do it if your Stage 3+ but thats it.

    If anyone finds a tuner that will do it for them let us know!


    Amazing DIY.
    i offer this service. $50. pm me.

  14. Member 2002 GTI's Avatar
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    06-19-2010 10:50 AM #49
    HELLO I was wondering if you could tell me what exactly those "blue balls" are used for. I'm trying to narrow down a vacuum leak and was wondering if perhaps that might be my problem...I deleted the alot of junk under the intake the other day but not the complete setup like you have done.. thank you for your help in advance...

  15. Member sounrealx's Avatar
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    06-19-2010 11:37 AM #50
    Quote Originally Posted by TurboLover03 View Post
    so what you're basically confirming is there IS indeed a 'T' connector there for the AWD engines? It seems to me there is but it sounds like you have some further experience to confirm that.
    I was just giving you a suggestion based on what info i read. If you have two severed vacuum lines that need to be connected, a brass or plastic connector is the best bet if you can't easily replace the hose. If you could in some way try and take a more detailed picture, i could maybe get a better idea. Good luck.
    Last edited by sounrealx; 06-19-2010 at 11:41 AM.

  16. Member nstevic01's Avatar
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    06-19-2010 12:40 PM #51
    Quote Originally Posted by 2002 GTI View Post
    HELLO I was wondering if you could tell me what exactly those "blue balls" are used for. I'm trying to narrow down a vacuum leak and was wondering if perhaps that might be my problem...I deleted the alot of junk under the intake the other day but not the complete setup like you have done.. thank you for your help in advance...
    The blue balls are for the Fuel EVAP system. All of the lines are routed on the leftmost side of the engine bay. If you had a leak there, you would smell fuel. It really isnt an integral part of the Vacuum System, but it is connected to the intake to burn off fuel vapors from the fuel tank.

    Most vacuum leaks occur under the intake manifold with the smaller lines cracking due to age, boost leaks can cause issue too. I would double check all remaining vac lines and due a pressure test of your intake lines.
    Last edited by nstevic01; 06-19-2010 at 12:47 PM.

  17. Member 2002 GTI's Avatar
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    06-19-2010 01:28 PM #52
    thank you for the heads up.. those were my plans , however i thought i would ask.. Thank you again...

  18. 06-24-2010 09:35 AM #53
    On the subject of the T-fitting that intersects with that 4mm hose coming from the manifold and the straightthrough part of the Tee to the PCV system....

    Does anyone know the diameter of the hose coming from the N249 to that tee fitting?

  19. 06-24-2010 02:30 PM #54
    After utilizing my great sense of deduction ;-) I think I have the dimensions of that "T reducer".

    Measured the outer diameter of the through hoses, they were about 1/2".... and I already knew the inner diameter of the vac hose leading to the manifold as a 4mm. I was looking today and I think the exact T I need is a

    9mm x 4mm x 9 mm which is roughly equivalent to standard 3/8" x 3/16" x 3/8".

    This is for anyone that might have this question in the future. Refer to my picture above circling the area where this T resides...

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    07-13-2010 03:28 AM #55
    siliconeintakes.com... i bought a intake leak tester from this site. my friend jeff referred it to me. ive seen custom made ones but the hardware stores around me had limited supply so i went with this about 30$

  21. Member GTI 20th AE #1421's Avatar
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    07-13-2010 05:58 PM #56
    Amazing DIY, BUMP for later reference.

    Did you throw any CEL's after doing this? I bet you need a bunch of resistors to not throw any CEL's? am i right?
    Last edited by GTI 20th AE #1421; 07-13-2010 at 06:14 PM.

  22. Member nstevic01's Avatar
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    07-14-2010 10:52 AM #57
    Quote Originally Posted by GTI 20th AE #1421 View Post
    Amazing DIY, BUMP for later reference.

    Did you throw any CEL's after doing this? I bet you need a bunch of resistors to not throw any CEL's? am i right?
    Installing the resistors was one of the last steps in the photo guide. A total of 4 is needed.

    After 12k miles with the delete, I got 2 CELs. One for the EVAP, and one for the SAI that only showed up recently. I am going to change out the resistors to see if it clears up.

  23. Member Henni's Avatar
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    07-14-2010 05:33 PM #58
    Quote Originally Posted by GTI 20th AE #1421 View Post
    Amazing DIY, BUMP for later reference.

    Did you throw any CEL's after doing this? I bet you need a bunch of resistors to not throw any CEL's? am i right?
    The only thing I have resistored is my SAI. I have kept everything else plugged in. No codes. I did however keep my EVAP system. I didn't feel it would be a good idea to delete it. I kept one of the check valves to the system and ran a vac line to it.

    If you need resistors I have quite a few of them (No I won't be charging the prices that I have been seeing online.... 4-6 bucks for one? oh no... I will set anyone up w/ a good deal while I have them). PM me if you need some.
    Last edited by Henni; 07-14-2010 at 05:36 PM.

  24. 07-15-2010 01:36 PM #59
    any chance you can make a kit without the block-off plate? and whatbout shipping to canada?

    I'm having a pretty hard time getting the parts individually locally, so this kit is pretty balls for me. Good write up btw..

  25. Member nstevic01's Avatar
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    07-15-2010 03:10 PM #60
    Quote Originally Posted by Ohms89 View Post
    any chance you can make a kit without the block-off plate? and whatbout shipping to canada?

    I'm having a pretty hard time getting the parts individually locally, so this kit is pretty balls for me. Good write up btw..
    Sent you a PM

  26. Member EJPolaski's Avatar
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    07-15-2010 07:48 PM #61
    Quote Originally Posted by nstevic01 View Post
    Installing the resistors was one of the last steps in the photo guide. A total of 4 is needed.

    After 12k miles with the delete, I got 2 CELs. One for the EVAP, and one for the SAI that only showed up recently. I am going to change out the resistors to see if it clears up.
    To my knowledge there is no way to get rid of the improper flow codes other than a chip tuner coding it out or finding someone who can do that to your ecu. no resistor or o2 spacer or anything will help unfortunately

  27. Member sounrealx's Avatar
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    07-15-2010 09:26 PM #62
    I've put maybe 20k on my car since the delete, and no incorrect flow code, just evap purge something something

  28. Member nstevic01's Avatar
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    07-15-2010 10:17 PM #63
    Quote Originally Posted by EJPolaski View Post
    To my knowledge there is no way to get rid of the improper flow codes other than a chip tuner coding it out or finding someone who can do that to your ecu. no resistor or o2 spacer or anything will help unfortunately
    I didnt have the code for the SAI until about a few weeks ago. Not sure why it would pop back up. There is a guy that posted in this thread that will do the delete for like $50. Although Im not sure if that will mess with other tuning on the ECU, like Revo or APR

  29. Member Henni's Avatar
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    07-16-2010 07:52 AM #64
    I have the 42DD spacer w/ a catless exhaust. I yet to pull a code for my second 02 sensor. As long as that 02 sensor is out of the main stream of the exhaust it shouldn't pull a code.


    You should only need one resistor, leave everything else plugged in.

  30. Member Gberg888GLI's Avatar
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    07-23-2010 01:50 PM #65
    great DIY... i gotta do this sometime soon... i have all the crap in the engine bay that is unnecessary.

  31. Member reflected's Avatar
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    07-23-2010 03:52 PM #66
    Quote Originally Posted by nstevic01 View Post
    I didnt have the code for the SAI until about a few weeks ago. Not sure why it would pop back up. There is a guy that posted in this thread that will do the delete for like $50. Although Im not sure if that will mess with other tuning on the ECU, like Revo or APR
    will not mess with other tuning. send me a pm if anyone needs this done.

  32. Member mazen...'s Avatar
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    07-23-2010 04:12 PM #67
    what about the audi TT (BAM) 2003 model?

    is there any DIY

  33. 07-26-2010 08:18 PM #68
    with the resistors, will the check engine still show?

  34. Member dlsolo's Avatar
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    07-26-2010 09:09 PM #69
    great write up!! definitely useful.

  35. 08-15-2010 12:07 PM #70
    I cant remember if you just bypass the n249 if you leave it plugged in will it throw a code or not... doin that on the wifeys gti.. dont have to worry on my bt getta eurodyne took car of that on mine

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