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    Thread: DIY: Ultimate SAI/N249/PCV/EVAP Delete

    1. Member thygreyt's Avatar
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      08-20-2012 01:17 AM #491
      quick question:

      do you guys know the 2nd pcv port.. the one on the block... technically: "block breather".
      its right by the dipstick.

      anyways, the hard hose broke.

      Ideally, i want to run that to a catch can, along with the top pcv port (on the valve cover).

      how do i connnect a hose to such a LARGE hole opening?

    2. Moderator groggory's Avatar
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      08-20-2012 01:36 AM #492
      You get a block breather adapter that adapts it to -10AN , then you go from there
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    3. Member thygreyt's Avatar
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      08-20-2012 01:51 AM #493
      Quote Originally Posted by groggory View Post
      You get a block breather adapter that adapts it to -10AN , then you go from there
      sorry for the noobness... as you can tell, i'm not a mk4 nor a 1.8T guy...

      anyways, where can i find such thing?

      all i have found is this:

      http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-...her/ES2515512/

      http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-...eather/ES7934/

      http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-...ther/ES523283/

      http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-...her/ES2575555/

      and i can tell is that they are all the same, arent they?

      if so, i'll just buy the cheapest and run a hose from there... right?

      edit: i just found what you were talking about.

    4. Moderator groggory's Avatar
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      08-20-2012 02:17 AM #494
      Ie billet adapter

      Few pieces off jegs
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    5. Junior Member testdriver's Avatar
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      08-20-2012 09:45 AM #495
      Quote Originally Posted by need_a_VR6 View Post
      I mean if you dont have the cels coded out or readiness forced in the flash then you need to clear the code and go right to test without cold starting. If you have the solution done in software there is nothing to worry about.
      i see , thank you for explaining. i wonder what the guy at the test center would think when i show up with my laptop.
      so if i get readiness and the errors "fixed" in the software, i don't even have to warm the car up before i get it e-tested?

    6. Geriatric Member need_a_VR6's Avatar
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      08-20-2012 01:20 PM #496
      Quote Originally Posted by testdriver View Post
      i see , thank you for explaining. i wonder what the guy at the test center would think when i show up with my laptop.
      so if i get readiness and the errors "fixed" in the software, i don't even have to warm the car up before i get it e-tested?
      You need to have the car warmed up to make sure the other monitors are all set. You might still have one unset readiness monitor for SAI, but it's a pass for emissions everywhere that I am aware of. Older cars can have up to 2 unset.
      -Paul
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    7. Member thygreyt's Avatar
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      08-21-2012 12:21 AM #497
      so, thanks for all the help!
      we got the car running perfect.

      i have a question for the "experts"...

      can the 1.8T vent the PCV directly to atmosphere? or will there be issues by doing so?

      i was advised to run a sealed/vacuumed catchan, but i really dont want to...

      how are you guys doing your PCV set ups?

    8. Member dkell426's Avatar
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      08-21-2012 02:02 AM #498
      what size vacuum hose would be needed if i was just going to bypass the N249 and reroute the other lines? i heard 3mm but that seems to small.

    9. Moderator groggory's Avatar
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      08-21-2012 02:10 AM #499
      Quote Originally Posted by dkell426 View Post
      what size vacuum hose would be needed if i was just going to bypass the N249 and reroute the other lines? i heard 3mm but that seems to small.
      3mm fits on the dv

      5mm fits on the n249 line
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      08-21-2012 02:29 AM #500
      Quote Originally Posted by thygreyt View Post
      so, thanks for all the help!
      we got the car running perfect.

      i have a question for the "experts"...

      can the 1.8T vent the PCV directly to atmosphere? or will there be issues by doing so?

      i was advised to run a sealed/vacuumed catchan, but i really dont want to...

      how are you guys doing your PCV set ups?
      If your talking about just running a hose off the tee at the block breather to the ground; then that wouldn't cause any problems that I'm aware of. I know plenty of guys (in other cars other than a 1.8t) that do this with no harm.

      Was actually planning on doing this myself as I don't need to pass a visual emissions inspection and fux spending money on a catch can that'll probably still get oil in my intake tract.

    11. Member VWstung's Avatar
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      08-21-2012 02:40 AM #501
      A single line running from the crankcase to the oil cooler then the ground is where its at.
      Vent to atmosphere catch cans are stupid cause you just end up having a post MAF vacuum leak.
      So either straight to the ground like a boss or fit a closed vacuum catch can.
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    12. Member thygreyt's Avatar
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      08-21-2012 03:57 AM #502
      Quote Originally Posted by BoostedGLS0218 View Post
      If your talking about just running a hose off the tee at the block breather to the ground; then that wouldn't cause any problems that I'm aware of. I know plenty of guys (in other cars other than a 1.8t) that do this with no harm.

      Was actually planning on doing this myself as I don't need to pass a visual emissions inspection and fux spending money on a catch can that'll probably still get oil in my intake tract.
      this 1.8t is a friend's mk4.

      on my 2.5L mkv and on other 2.0t mkvs and mk6s, i know plenty of people running a hose to the ground.
      i have had the set up for ~30 k miles with no issues.

      so i guess i'll do it like that on the 1.8t and see what happens.

    13. Geriatric Member need_a_VR6's Avatar
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      08-21-2012 07:36 AM #503
      Quote Originally Posted by VWstung View Post
      A single line running from the crankcase to the oil cooler then the ground is where its at.
      Vent to atmosphere catch cans are stupid cause you just end up having a post MAF vacuum leak.
      So either straight to the ground like a boss or fit a closed vacuum catch can.
      A vta can and a hose to the ground are effectively the same. Works great other then the smell.
      -Paul
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    14. Member HavokRuels's Avatar
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      08-21-2012 08:07 AM #504
      Quote Originally Posted by need_a_VR6 View Post
      I mean if you dont have the cels coded out or readiness forced in the flash then you need to clear the code and go right to test without cold starting. If you have the solution done in software there is nothing to worry about.
      In RI you can't clear the codes and go right to inspection. Your IM readiness monitors will read as incomplete and the state computer will fail you. EVAP is usually last to clear so the only way around it here is to clear the CEL's and drive the car until you have only one incomplete and hopefully the EVAP is the incomplete.



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    15. Member HavokRuels's Avatar
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      08-21-2012 08:14 AM #505
      Quote Originally Posted by VWstung View Post
      A single line running from the crankcase to the oil cooler then the ground is where its at.
      Vent to atmosphere catch cans are stupid cause you just end up having a post MAF vacuum leak.
      So either straight to the ground like a boss or fit a closed vacuum catch can.
      WTF? Explain how you have vacuum in a PCV system without the assistance of a manifold vacuum source?


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    16. Member VWstung's Avatar
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      08-21-2012 01:33 PM #506
      You don't, the air has no extra assistance leaving nor any check valves keeping it in.
      Iv done it on plenty of cars.
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    17. Member toby lawrence's Avatar
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      08-21-2012 02:15 PM #507
      Quote Originally Posted by HavokRuels View Post
      In RI you can't clear the codes and go right to inspection. Your IM readiness monitors will read as incomplete and the state computer will fail you. EVAP is usually last to clear so the only way around it here is to clear the CEL's and drive the car until you have only one incomplete and hopefully the EVAP is the incomplete.
      Do you have anything coded out at all? I'm getting my car re-inspected in RI soon with forced readiness on nearly all the emissions monitors... curious to see how it turns out.
      science: it's for real.

    18. Member BSD's Avatar
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      08-21-2012 06:49 PM #508
      Last time I checked vacuum is a necessity for a proper catch can setup, since the crankcase needs vacuum.
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      Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Clarkson View Post
      I assume you were doing that as some act of charity? Like taking retards to the zoo.

    19. 08-22-2012 11:01 PM #509
      x6 goes to nstevic01 I received the resistors Monday morning, thank you for the quick and excellent service. To all on here, I recommend nstevic01 and his website: http://www.diydeleteparts.com/ as a very reliable source for parts needed to complete this DIY!!

    20. 08-23-2012 07:33 AM #510
      Hi

      please some technical help.
      I am away from home-holliday, but need to purchase parts to get them when I am back to copy your mod.
      I need OD of that nipple on intake-driver side that connect to the -brake mod hose?
      OD of that caped nipple on TB.
      I was thinking that brake hose should be arround 13mm, and that from TB 6-8mm,
      also that FPR one is 3 or 4mm??
      Please help with that.
      BTW great post!!!!

    21. Geriatric Member need_a_VR6's Avatar
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      08-23-2012 12:33 PM #511
      Quote Originally Posted by BSD View Post
      Last time I checked vacuum is a necessity for a proper catch can setup, since the crankcase needs vacuum.
      Unless your breather hose connects after the throttle body, it doesn't see vacuum.
      -Paul
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    22. Moderator groggory's Avatar
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      08-23-2012 12:47 PM #512
      Quote Originally Posted by need_a_VR6 View Post
      Unless your breather hose connects after the throttle body, it doesn't see vacuum.
      The stock pcv system creates a vacuum

      Aftermarket systems just do their best not to resist flow
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    23. Geriatric Member need_a_VR6's Avatar
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      08-23-2012 07:13 PM #513
      The vacuum is very, very low on an intake mounted pcv. The only vacuum is from the speed of the air moving past the tube inlet.

      The newer vr6s use a manifold monted pcv that generates considerable vacuum by comparison.
      -Paul
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    24. Member VWstung's Avatar
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      08-23-2012 08:04 PM #514
      The gases don't really have a problem leaving the crankcase with vent to atmosphere set ups.
      It also has a to do with the fact car manufactures having to recurrculate fumes. It's the same thing as EGR and Evap.
      Something like a VTA would never pass a new car inspection.
      Last edited by VWstung; 08-23-2012 at 09:04 PM.
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      08-23-2012 08:48 PM #515
      Quote Originally Posted by VWstung View Post
      The gases don't really have a problem leaving the crankcase with vent to atmosphere set ups. .
      Right on the money. Air inside the engine is stagnant until your internals start moving, so whether you have a Pcv system or not, the amount of turbulence caused by your moving parts, is enough to cause outward pressure which in turn releases the vapor cause by air/oil mixture.

      It doesn't get any easier than this peeps. I don't care how much you read on the Internet, your crank and valve train breath irregardless of Pcv (which is designed solely to avoid releasing this toxic mix into the environment) or open element, the difference is you will have much cleaner manifold and piston heads with open element. Who wants that **** in their car!

      for everyone


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    26. Member VWstung's Avatar
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      08-23-2012 09:07 PM #516
      Yerrpppp^

      Don't want that discharged oil and air back into my intake.
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    27. Member VWstung's Avatar
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      08-27-2012 04:55 PM #517
      So what is the proper size hose to buy for the crankcase and oil cooler??
      He lists his kit comes with 3/4 hose but has pictured 5/8th.
      ?
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    28. Member HavokRuels's Avatar
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      08-27-2012 05:37 PM #518
      Quote Originally Posted by VWstung View Post
      So what is the proper size hose to buy for the crankcase and oil cooler??
      He lists his kit comes with 3/4 hose but has pictured 5/8th.
      ?
      I used 5/8"


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    29. Member nstevic01's Avatar
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      08-28-2012 12:45 AM #519
      The new kits come with 3/4", when I did the DIY, I used 5/8". It is really personal preference and what works with what you are using.
      PM me for SAI/N249/PCV/EVAP Delete parts and kits -->http://www.diydeleteparts.com/

    30. Member Sour Diesal GTI's Avatar
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      09-03-2012 03:27 PM #520
      hey i just got my deletes done, but my SAI plug isnt like any of the resistors i got...

      its not a oval type or a square type plug...... from what ive read just tape the plug up & im good to go....

      is this tru ????

      i have 2 oval connectors left & used both my square ones....

      edit : running Uni 2 & AWP !!!!!
      Last edited by Sour Diesal GTI; 09-03-2012 at 03:31 PM.
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    31. Junior Member testdriver's Avatar
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      09-05-2012 01:06 AM #521
      @Sour Diesal GTI
      are you talking about nstevic01's kit or the resistors you can order from intengineering.com? if it's about the last one and it's the same plug as on my TT then yes, it almost looks like the round plug you can buy from intengineering.com would fit, but it doesn't. and no, just taping it up won't do the job, you have to install a resistor (10W and 300ohm) that will be there in place of the pump. they sell it for $5, a well sorted eletric surplus store will most likely have it for around a buck (so i bought five ).

    32. Member VWstung's Avatar
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      09-05-2012 04:26 AM #522
      My integrated engineering resistor almost didn't fit on my SAI connector, had to fit it and force it on.

      Also had to use 3/4th heater hose for my crankcase, 5/8th wasn't even close
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    33. Member nstevic01's Avatar
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      09-05-2012 12:17 PM #523
      I also sell the raw resistors without the kit. They run $8 shipped anywhere in the US for a set of 4.
      PM me for SAI/N249/PCV/EVAP Delete parts and kits -->http://www.diydeleteparts.com/

    34. Member Sour Diesal GTI's Avatar
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      09-05-2012 12:38 PM #524
      Quote Originally Posted by testdriver View Post
      @Sour Diesal GTI
      are you talking about nstevic01's kit or the resistors you can order from intengineering.com? if it's about the last one and it's the same plug as on my TT then yes, it almost looks like the round plug you can buy from intengineering.com would fit, but it doesn't. and no, just taping it up won't do the job, you have to install a resistor (10W and 300ohm) that will be there in place of the pump. they sell it for $5, a well sorted eletric surplus store will most likely have it for around a buck (so i bought five ).
      yea the resistors that IE sells now... i got them from the maker tho..... forgot to say im switching from Uni 2 over to eurodyne & everybody local is saying with the switch i dont need resistors on anything...... got my first CEL today... scanned it with my scan tool. no new codes just one thats always been there & the flow code for SAI .......
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    35. Member thygreyt's Avatar
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      09-11-2012 04:26 PM #525
      where are you guys buying the resistors from?

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