You get a block breather adapter that adapts it to -10AN , then you go from there
#491
quick question:
do you guys know the 2nd pcv port.. the one on the block... technically: "block breather".
its right by the dipstick.
anyways, the hard hose broke.
Ideally, i want to run that to a catch can, along with the top pcv port (on the valve cover).
how do i connnect a hose to such a LARGE hole opening?
#492
You get a block breather adapter that adapts it to -10AN , then you go from there
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#493
sorry for the noobness... as you can tell, i'm not a mk4 nor a 1.8T guy...
anyways, where can i find such thing?
all i have found is this:
http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-...her/ES2515512/
http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-...eather/ES7934/
http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-...ther/ES523283/
http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-...her/ES2575555/
and i can tell is that they are all the same, arent they?
if so, i'll just buy the cheapest and run a hose from there... right?
edit: i just found what you were talking about.
Last edited by thygreyt; 08-20-2012 at 02:07 AM.
#494
Ie billet adapter
Few pieces off jegs
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#495
#496
-Paul
1995 GTI VR6 - 12.90@106 R32 power - 12.833@106 12v power
KPTuned - Official MegaSquirt: Sales - Repair - Installation - Tuning
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#497
so, thanks for all the help!
we got the car running perfect.
i have a question for the "experts"...
can the 1.8T vent the PCV directly to atmosphere? or will there be issues by doing so?
i was advised to run a sealed/vacuumed catchan, but i really dont want to...
how are you guys doing your PCV set ups?
#498
what size vacuum hose would be needed if i was just going to bypass the N249 and reroute the other lines? i heard 3mm but that seems to small.
#499
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My FAQ / DIY Thread -- Look here for 90% of the questions you have
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#500
If your talking about just running a hose off the tee at the block breather to the ground; then that wouldn't cause any problems that I'm aware of. I know plenty of guys (in other cars other than a 1.8t) that do this with no harm.
Was actually planning on doing this myself as I don't need to pass a visual emissions inspection and fux spending money on a catch can that'll probably still get oil in my intake tract.
#501
A single line running from the crankcase to the oil cooler then the ground is where its at.
Vent to atmosphere catch cans are stupid cause you just end up having a post MAF vacuum leak.
So either straight to the ground like a boss or fit a closed vacuum catch can.
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#503
-Paul
1995 GTI VR6 - 12.90@106 R32 power - 12.833@106 12v power
KPTuned - Official MegaSquirt: Sales - Repair - Installation - Tuning
Build Thread: The Build Thread "Good Clean Fun"
#504
In RI you can't clear the codes and go right to inspection. Your IM readiness monitors will read as incomplete and the state computer will fail you. EVAP is usually last to clear so the only way around it here is to clear the CEL's and drive the car until you have only one incomplete and hopefully the EVAP is the incomplete.
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#506
You don't, the air has no extra assistance leaving nor any check valves keeping it in.
Iv done it on plenty of cars.
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#508
Last time I checked vacuum is a necessity for a proper catch can setup, since the crankcase needs vacuum.![]()
#509
x6 goes to nstevic01 I received the resistors Monday morning, thank you for the quick and excellent service. To all on here, I recommend nstevic01 and his website: http://www.diydeleteparts.com/ as a very reliable source for parts needed to complete this DIY!!
#510
Hi
please some technical help.
I am away from home-holliday, but need to purchase parts to get them when I am back to copy your mod.
I need OD of that nipple on intake-driver side that connect to the -brake mod hose?
OD of that caped nipple on TB.
I was thinking that brake hose should be arround 13mm, and that from TB 6-8mm,
also that FPR one is 3 or 4mm??
Please help with that.
BTW great post!!!!![]()
#511
-Paul
1995 GTI VR6 - 12.90@106 R32 power - 12.833@106 12v power
KPTuned - Official MegaSquirt: Sales - Repair - Installation - Tuning
Build Thread: The Build Thread "Good Clean Fun"
#512
My Build
My FAQ / DIY Thread -- Look here for 90% of the questions you have
FS: New in box, primer'd 20AE body kit (front+rear valences and side skirts) -- PM me for details
FS: Fiberglass 20AE replica spoiler. No scratches. Reflex Silver.
#513
The vacuum is very, very low on an intake mounted pcv. The only vacuum is from the speed of the air moving past the tube inlet.
The newer vr6s use a manifold monted pcv that generates considerable vacuum by comparison.
-Paul
1995 GTI VR6 - 12.90@106 R32 power - 12.833@106 12v power
KPTuned - Official MegaSquirt: Sales - Repair - Installation - Tuning
Build Thread: The Build Thread "Good Clean Fun"
#514
The gases don't really have a problem leaving the crankcase with vent to atmosphere set ups.
It also has a to do with the fact car manufactures having to recurrculate fumes. It's the same thing as EGR and Evap.
Something like a VTA would never pass a new car inspection.
Last edited by VWstung; 08-23-2012 at 09:04 PM.
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#515
Right on the money. Air inside the engine is stagnant until your internals start moving, so whether you have a Pcv system or not, the amount of turbulence caused by your moving parts, is enough to cause outward pressure which in turn releases the vapor cause by air/oil mixture.
It doesn't get any easier than this peeps. I don't care how much you read on the Internet, your crank and valve train breath irregardless of Pcv (which is designed solely to avoid releasing this toxic mix into the environment) or open element, the difference is you will have much cleaner manifold and piston heads with open element. Who wants that **** in their car!
for everyone
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#516
Yerrpppp^
Don't want that discharged oil and air back into my intake.
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#517
So what is the proper size hose to buy for the crankcase and oil cooler??
He lists his kit comes with 3/4 hose but has pictured 5/8th.
?
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#518
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#519
The new kits come with 3/4", when I did the DIY, I used 5/8". It is really personal preference and what works with what you are using.
PM me for SAI/N249/PCV/EVAP Delete parts and kits -->http://www.diydeleteparts.com/
#520
hey i just got my deletes done, but my SAI plug isnt like any of the resistors i got...
its not a oval type or a square type plug...... from what ive read just tape the plug up & im good to go....
is this tru ????
i have 2 oval connectors left & used both my square ones....
edit : running Uni 2 & AWP !!!!!
Last edited by Sour Diesal GTI; 09-03-2012 at 03:31 PM.
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#521
@Sour Diesal GTI
are you talking about nstevic01's kit or the resistors you can order from intengineering.com? if it's about the last one and it's the same plug as on my TT then yes, it almost looks like the round plug you can buy from intengineering.com would fit, but it doesn't. and no, just taping it up won't do the job, you have to install a resistor (10W and 300ohm) that will be there in place of the pump. they sell it for $5, a well sorted eletric surplus store will most likely have it for around a buck (so i bought five).
#522
My integrated engineering resistor almost didn't fit on my SAI connector, had to fit it and force it on.
Also had to use 3/4th heater hose for my crankcase, 5/8th wasn't even close![]()
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#523
I also sell the raw resistors without the kit. They run $8 shipped anywhere in the US for a set of 4.
PM me for SAI/N249/PCV/EVAP Delete parts and kits -->http://www.diydeleteparts.com/
#524
yea the resistors that IE sells now... i got them from the maker tho..... forgot to say im switching from Uni 2 over to eurodyne & everybody local is saying with the switch i dont need resistors on anything...... got my first CEL today... scanned it with my scan tool. no new codes just one thats always been there & the flow code for SAI .......
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MACHINES GONE WILD DYNOJET @ 210.14whp - 245.93wtq 4th Gear Pull !!!!!!!!!!!
'03 20AE #0558 Imola Yellow aka MELO YELO