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DIY: Ultimate SAI/N249/PCV/EVAP Delete

1M views 855 replies 292 participants last post by  gillygils 
#1 · (Edited)
I spent a lot of time on this, I hope it will be helpful. This is the guide I put together to be used in conjunction with a kit I put together. I did the install on both a AWP and AWD motor. There are slight variations in the vac lines, but the instructions indicate which motor is in the picture. If I am missing anything, please let me know.

Engine codes this write up has worked on (if you have a engine not listed and this has worked for you, let me know and I will add it to the list):

AWP
AWD
AUQ
AWW
AWV
AWM


I will make you a kit if you are interested. PM me for details.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...h-everything-you-need&p=64471922#post64471922

For those who want to piece the kit together, here is what I used:

- Integrated Engineering Block Plate
- 4 10w 330OHM Resistors
- 8 feet of 3/4" Hose
- 4 feet of 1/2" Hose
- 4 feet of 5/32" vac line
- 2 3/4" 90 degree PCV Elbows
- 1 3/4" PCV "T"
- 12 Medium Hose Clamps
- 6 Small Hose Clamps
- 1 Pack of Assorted Small Vacuum Caps
- 1 Pack of Large Assorted Vacuum Caps
- 1 Homebrew Catch Can
- G12 Coolant


Optional (While your in there) Parts:

- Coolant neck: Automatic Transmissions: 06A 121 133 AH Manual Transmissions: 06A 121 132 AP
- Newsouth Performance Power Gasket, or stock intake manifold gasket
*Now is also a REALLY good time to install a oil pressure sender using the port on top of the filter housing to use an aftermarket gauge.


Tools Needed:

- Gloves
- Flathead Screwdriver
- Set of allen wrenches, or allen bits for your socket wrench (5mm, 5.5mm, 8mm, some other may be needed)
- Socket Set (8mm, 10mm, some others may be needed)
- Cutters
- Soldering Iron
- Solder
- Electrical Tape
- Zip Ties
- Jack and a Jack Stand (to be safe)

**Disclaimer** - I am not responsible for any damage done to the vehicle or yourself by performing this modification. I am simply collecting all the items needed and providing them to you as a convenience. Most states require the emissions systems on your vehicle and removing them could cause your car to violate your state's emissions laws. That being said:

GOOD LUCK!!














































































































Finished product:

 
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#43 · (Edited)
Does ANYONE know the part number for the "T" that fits in between the 3 hoses highlighted here?



I broke the nipple off while trying to replace the hose from the manifold to this "T" fitting because of a leak and need to pick this part up TODAY if possible!

Also, does anyone know if the leak that was and still is there would be hurting my max psi?
 
#45 ·
Thanks for the reply to my question,

I think that's what I'm going to have to try because I went to the dealer and they could NOT find the equivalent part! After looking at their diagram for about 10 minutes and talking about it we finally found the PCV system on a DIFFERENT diagram :). He showed me the "part" that I would have to buy and its $180! Its that whole system of piping including hard pipe and their connectors. They were very friendly but said it doesn't look like they sell just the T fitting anymore. I have an AWD engine code and the more I thought about it the more I think that the OEM equipment for my vehicle is different then what they now sell in their parts... the two hoses that intersect the same T fitting that are NOT broken off both have hose clamps on them. Can anyone else confirm that not all engine codes have the 'all-in-one' hose mess as a single part?

To the OP this is probably the best write-up I've seen on Vortex. Every detail photographed and explained thoroughly. Thank you for this!
 
#49 ·
"blue balls" vac

HELLO I was wondering if you could tell me what exactly those "blue balls" are used for. I'm trying to narrow down a vacuum leak and was wondering if perhaps that might be my problem...I deleted the alot of junk under the intake the other day but not the complete setup like you have done.. thank you for your help in advance...
 
#51 · (Edited)
HELLO I was wondering if you could tell me what exactly those "blue balls" are used for. I'm trying to narrow down a vacuum leak and was wondering if perhaps that might be my problem...I deleted the alot of junk under the intake the other day but not the complete setup like you have done.. thank you for your help in advance...
The blue balls are for the Fuel EVAP system. All of the lines are routed on the leftmost side of the engine bay. If you had a leak there, you would smell fuel. It really isnt an integral part of the Vacuum System, but it is connected to the intake to burn off fuel vapors from the fuel tank.

Most vacuum leaks occur under the intake manifold with the smaller lines cracking due to age, boost leaks can cause issue too. I would double check all remaining vac lines and due a pressure test of your intake lines.
 
#54 ·
After utilizing my great sense of deduction ;-) I think I have the dimensions of that "T reducer".

Measured the outer diameter of the through hoses, they were about 1/2".... and I already knew the inner diameter of the vac hose leading to the manifold as a 4mm. I was looking today and I think the exact T I need is a

9mm x 4mm x 9 mm which is roughly equivalent to standard 3/8" x 3/16" x 3/8".

This is for anyone that might have this question in the future. Refer to my picture above circling the area where this T resides...
 
#57 ·
Installing the resistors was one of the last steps in the photo guide. A total of 4 is needed.

After 12k miles with the delete, I got 2 CELs. One for the EVAP, and one for the SAI that only showed up recently. I am going to change out the resistors to see if it clears up.
 
#64 ·
I have the 42DD spacer w/ a catless exhaust. I yet to pull a code for my second 02 sensor. As long as that 02 sensor is out of the main stream of the exhaust it shouldn't pull a code.


You should only need one resistor, leave everything else plugged in.
 
#71 ·
mine didnt throw a code when i capped it and ran a line from the intake manifold to the d/v
 
#74 ·
It cleans up your engine bay, dramatically reduces the load on the vacuum signal (which means faster DV response). If the engine is high mileage, the vacuum lines under the intake manifold likely need to be replaced or removed anyways.

Many people also comment that it smooths out their idle and their car just plain runs better. I know it helped mine a little bit.

If you live in a state that does emissions inspections, do not do this. If you don't, this will do nothing but benefit your car, in my opinion.

I would do it all over again just for the fact that my engine is less crowded and I know that EVERY vacuum line is in good shape, where they go, and why. It makes things more simplistic.
 
#77 ·
I have noticed my gas mileage dropped significantly; I resistor everything off, and was still able to see the fuel trims with vag com after doing this, any ideas ? the were within + or - 5 % of 0
 
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