Quintin what gtg are you going to I want to see your car?
For compounding setups I think the ideal setup is your small turbo should be 2/3s to 3/4 of the large turbo
a spring and lever on the actuator. low boost, the spring tension overcomes the vanes keeping them closed. when it gets higher up, the pressure overcomes the spring tension and opens up. kind of tunable by spring tension, sort of, as well as spring position on the arm.
he said it works great......
That's pretty interesting because the most current trend is using a 14b actuator to control the vanes and a tial 38mm to control max boost.
Cranium you should slap a hx52 on your audi so all the garrett nut swingers will shut up
my car right now has a Bullseye S366XL, and its plenty good i think..... trying to lift the front right tire on a launch even with AWD.... that run i went thru 3rd gear and lifted @ 1000 foot and coasted to finish. ran 10.6 @ 121 LOL with 1.59 60'. and the launch threw the car semi sideways. didnt fully straighten out and get back in the groove til the shift into 3rd.
Hey guys, a few questions. I'm trying to get the miscellaneous parts for my hx35w that I don't have. Let me know if this is right:
1) oil feed
2) oil return flange (does anyone know if that will come with the bolts?)
3) oil return gasket
4) Do I need an oil restrictor for a 12v VR? Do I feed the oil from the oil filter housing? Where can I get the oil restrictor from, if I do need it, or what size / specs?
5) How long does the feed line need to be? How long does the discharge line need to be?
oil feed= m12x1.5 ...go to a hydraulic shop that goes from m12 to 1/4npt and then an adapter that goes from 1/4npt to -4 JIC/AN (thats what i did)
you may/maynot need a restrictor. One hx35 i had didnt...then next one did.
oil feed it's m12x1.5 on one end, -4 AN on the other.
also, the text in blue in my posts are links to the products I'm talking about.
Cranium the 14b actuator is off the 1g eclipse, I believe it has a wierd bent rod but you can look it up on google images. Here is a thread that explains it a bit better http://http://www.turbotalk.org/bb/v...c.php?f=25&t=4. The user Aero is on here as well once and a grand while and on other multiple turbo forums. I think what he did was gut out the holset controller, and on there is an arm that moves the vanes. He welded a pin onto the arm and put the eyelet from the actuator over it and used manifold pressure to control it, so that the vanes were pushed out at no boost and where pulled in at higher boost levels.
The 14b actuator may not be the only solution though, I suppose other wg actuators with different psi settings could be used to dial in or make a boost curve how you want it, or just use a MBC
He was seeing positive manifold pressure at a low rpm, like gt28 or ko4 style boost curve. Ultimately to limit boost though he had to use a Tial because boost just kept going up (20+psi at 4k rpm iirc)
Here is another thread using the stock Holset controller using Arduino http://www.homemadeturbo.com/f7/hols...61/index5.html
and another one on here http://http://www.realhomemadeturbo....?topic=10007.0
If your sensitive to politically incorrect talk then dont go to the last site/link.
I just want to see you run a Holset to prove the naysayers wrong. Your the only one here on the vortex making big power and your car would be the perfect test bed to do so. A Hx52 would not be a bad place to start or even bigger.
Dont plan on running the drain between the pan and the axle like the Kinetics VRT kit. You need to have a nice sweeping arc. Dont use the BFI pan either, the bung placement is a ****ing joke and a 1/2npt is too small. My drain runs under the axle. A friend of mine gave me his brand new BFI, and besides the ****ing useless small 1/2npt bung with female threads. Once you get a 1/2npt to -10an adapter Im sure the internal diameter of the drain tube is going to be a lot less than 1/2". Got under the car and determined the bung needed to be welded another inch or so over to the drivers side. Just make sure when the bung gets welded you take into consideration the pan bolts too.
I bought a 3 foot section of Russell Proflex -16an, steel -16an weld bung, and a straight -16an fitting from Summit, maybe spent 80 bucks. My feed line is an ebay special @ 36". On a vr maybe 40" max. The 44" from ATP is long enough to run around your engine bay imho.
Feed the oil from the OFH. Russell makes an inline -4an male/female fitting with a 1/8th npt port on it to screw in a guage. Just make sure the guage is after the restrictor so you know what pressures you are running
Here is the link to the adapterhttp://www.summitracing.com/search/D...N/?Ns=Rank|Asc
Last edited by Dave926; 10-01-2010 at 06:16 PM.
Supposedly they hit like a ton of bricks and Im sure you can get a good spool with that combo.
thanks for the info Dave....
my Friend Derek is actually using a 351HE VGT or whatever now, he gutted the box and uses a spring. it holds the vanes closed until it spins too fast, overcoming spring tension. its pretty neat, and it works for simplicity.
he is tryin to talk me into a V6 largeport 30v motor with another of these VGT holset turbos. it would be in a rabbit and RWD, too. making it that much more fun
here are a couple of his pix. his is Audi 20v 5cyl.
Originally Posted by derracuda
thanks dave and quintin for the info.
I have the oil feed adapter that came with my VF kit on the car now. I'm pretty sure it's a -4an and it has ports for my oil pressure gauges, etc. so I'm assuming that will be good for the turbo feed as well. I got the 4' line from ATP with a 90* fitting on one end and a straight on the other.
I went ahead and bought the oil return fitting that extreme psi sells, which is a -10an. I figure I'll start there and see what happens. I also bought a 45* adapter for the oil pan. I figured that would let it drain a bit more smoothly into the pan. We'll see what happens there. I am assuming that it will not be sufficient and will have to try something else...
If I do need a restrictor, which one should i get? Or are they all the same? I don't really know anything about them.
In other news, the turbo was delivered Friday, and everything else should be here by tuesday, so i should have a good start on the install by the weekend.
thanks for everyone's help.
I sold the sc already. It's a v9 anyways, so it would have caused more problems than any possible benefits.
My buddy is building an ABA 16v with a lysholm and a 3076r, so I can get my twin charged fix from him without me having to deal with the crap storm it will lead to.
my friends car is the Zermatt silver with the hot I-5 and Holset. his car with all the pix of the actuator arm stuff....
he just dropped this off last night, wants us to do a big VGT Holset on this with RWD in my rabbit. anythings possible here....
holset testing original and ebay copys see vid
dayum! it did blow up! wtf
My Thread Fk AK Coilovers, Full 3" Exhaust, Custom FMIC, Forge Evo14 BOV, Forge Unos MBC, Forge Throttle Body Hose, GodSpeed Aluminum Radiator, Prothane Dog Bone Mount, BFI STG 1 Eng/Trans Mounts, Sachs VR6 Clutch Kit, TT Short Shifter, Siemens 630s, Walbro 255, DBB Garrett 50 Trim Turbo Kit, Eurodyne 630cc MAFLESS PAGPARTS FTW -- STEVEBILT.COM -- Integrated Engineering -- FourSeasonTuning.com Don't Buy Anything From *ChunkyPeanuts*
I'm going to have to leave the house before my son goes to sleep at night and push the car back into the driveway when I get home. gonna be nasty.