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    Thread: welder show and tell

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    1. Member cabrlicious's Avatar
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      05-21-2010 08:18 PM #1
      What welder do you use to make stuff, and what stuff have you made with it?

      a la show and tell...

    2. Senior Member PowerDubs's Avatar
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      05-21-2010 09:13 PM #2
      If you weld, and live in jersey, and are bored.. I have all sorts of ideas for things you can build.



      I only *wish* I knew how to weld..

    3. 05-22-2010 08:16 PM #3
      I've been using a Lincoln 175, no pulse, for 11 years. Works ok




















    4. Member quicka6's Avatar
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      05-22-2010 11:50 PM #4
      mad skills you have there bud.
      :p

    5. Banner Advertiser nothing-leaves-stock's Avatar
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      a few.
      05-25-2010 09:04 AM #5





      www.nothingleavesstock.com
      NLS's full line of parts on our online store!http://nothingleavesstock.com/online...=0&sort=normal
      Email us at sales@nothingleavesstock.com 5780 Main St. Center Valley PA 18034 610 282 5487

    6. Member cabrlicious's Avatar
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      05-25-2010 02:39 PM #6
      and what kind of welding equipment do you have over at nothing leaves stock?

    7. Member EuroKid83's Avatar
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      11-28-2010 06:21 PM #7
      Miller Dynasty 350. Just got it, cool stuff to come...

    8. Member Angular's Avatar
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      12-31-2010 04:03 PM #8
      What, no Chinese welders off eBay??

      On a more serious note... beautiful welds, Jay! I hope some day I can learn to weld like that.

      He didn't post pics in this thread but Markku@Agtronic does awesome fabrication and welding too. I just love TIG welded stainless.
      Last edited by Angular; 12-31-2010 at 07:49 PM.

    9. Member yellowrocco87's Avatar
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      01-02-2011 06:41 PM #9
      At home i have a miller Diversion 180 tig. havn't done a whole lot with it yet since my gas company sold me a contaminated bottle again

      at work we have a miller syncrowave 200 tig, Miller Millermatic 212 multivoltage mig, Miller Millermatic 135 mig, Miller Passport mig (SS wire welder), Miller Plasma Cutter.

      heres some things i have built



      First roll cage i ever built. Chromoly



      and one of me welding in one of many odd positions while building a cage
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    10. Member dubnick32's Avatar
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      02-06-2011 11:09 PM #10
      I use a Miller Dynasty DX.Photobucket

    11. Member cabrlicious's Avatar
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      03-01-2011 08:02 PM #11
      you all are some skilled welders. how about the efforts of some newbies, and their newly purchased welders? bonus points for $100 welders

    12. Member yellowrocco87's Avatar
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      03-01-2011 08:43 PM #12
      ^^

      i like that idea man. no one should be afraid to post there welds up here as its the only way you will ever better yourself.

      heres one of my more recent ones with the miller diversion 180 Chromoly subframe for a mk3 GTI


      this welder works great for its price and portability. incredible quite when welding on DC and tolerable while welding on AC. I would recommend it to anyone
      K&H fabrication...find us on Facebook! www.facebook.com/khfabrication!
      back in the game...but RWD and skidracin
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    13. 03-08-2011 03:35 PM #13
      AEB custom intake manifold with 75MM cable tb for my drag car.














      SBC water pump relocation inlet/outlet relocation. (coulda just bought a camero one but this was free)




      Water/air IC system:







      1998 ford ranger custom body dropped floor, custom frame and cantilever 6 link setup:




























      Coolant expansion tank... 3 more tanks like that for the power steering, washer rez, and oil catch will be done in a few days.















      Thats it for now as always I work for cheap, pm me if you need something.

    14. Member MKIGTITDI's Avatar
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      05-11-2011 01:20 PM #14
      Heres some welding that i did outside of a costco with a 125 hd flux core welder, grinder and a chope saw...








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      05-25-2011 08:52 PM #15
      With tig I like the modern rigs such as this http://www.millerwelds.com/products/...ocess/xmt_350/ with a water cooler for the tig box. The set up is nice and mobile and doesn't take up much space and with the option of a foot pedal or thumb wheel variable controls it makes tig work a dream along with the digital display and the various control options.

      That being said I am currently using a 40 year old Linde power box with a remote control box and an amp box with high frequency start and %100 duty cycle and %100 output based on the settings. The trigger is a rubber encased unit that can be located anywhere on the air cooled torch that you want to use for your thumb or fingers. With air cooled torches you have to stop after a few filler rods worth of bead and let the torch cool otherwise it will damage the torch and melt the parts of it that are rubber and plastic.

      Regardless of what type of machine your using you have to have a steady hand more so than with other welding processes because tig is really unforgiving of a shaky hand or to fast or slow of travel speed and to slow or quick on adding the filler metal. If your doing pipe you can allow yourself a little push or pull of +/- 5 - 10 degree's but no more as to much push will push the puddle to far ahead overheating the weldmont and pushing it to far back can cause it the bead to lump up.

      Use a shield with a shade 10 - 11 lense and uninsulated long leather gloves, the gloves will make it easier to manipulate the torch and feed the filler rod into the puddle and the lense will be about the shade you need. Really make sure you watch your angles specially if you have an application where your not using filler metal because it is more easy to undercut and to blow through specially on thing material. Always make sure the weldmont is cleaned of any contaminates when ever your sharpening your tungsten use a dedicated sharpening wheel to avoid contamination from other metals such as if you have a dual bench grinder use one wheel solely for sharpening your tungsten if your working on stainless steal. For cleaning weldmonts you can use acetone but you have to let it air dry before any welding.

      Speaking of stainless you have to watch your temp and travel speed otherwise you could end up burning the bead and surrounding material resulting in a blackened appearance and a weakened material prone to failure. Ideally you want a nice honey wheat colored bead though the coloring can range to a rose gold color and some blue green color but shoot for the honey wheat or rose gold color.

      Ok wife is talking to me and I lost my train of thought but always remember that slow and steady wins the race, never get in a hurry or you'll regret it and always keep what your working on clean clean clean.

    16. Member Minty_Fresh's Avatar
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      11-16-2011 02:10 AM #16
      Hey i didn't want to start a new thread so i thought this would be a decent place to ask.

      but I've bin using one of those ****ty harbor freight 90 Amp flux wire Welders for a wile now. honestly i don't care what people say i got it for like $50 with a coupon and I've done a lot of exhaust work and little things here and there with it. its turned out to be the best $50 I've spent just because of the amount of times i didn't have to call a friend or find some one to weld something.

      but now i picked up a rabbit and want to do frame notch eventualy raise the towers and control arm mounts. whats my best bet for a good welder that can handle that type of work. cause I'm going to assume the harbor fright one is just not going to give strong enough welds to be safe?

      thanks for the help.

    17. Forum Sponsor Quintin@USRT's Avatar
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      10-09-2012 12:10 PM #17
      i wish i still had some of my shipyard welding pics...some of these things in here bring back memories.....and NIGHTMARES.

    18. Member Pat @ Pitt Soundworks's Avatar
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      09-10-2013 12:58 AM #18
      If anyone in the Pittsburgh area is looking for a welder, I'm selling my Hobart Tigwave 300/300. I'm moving to FL and don't want to lug it with me.

    19. Member Pat @ Pitt Soundworks's Avatar
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      10-05-2013 12:35 AM #19
      Manifold I'm working on for a 3.5L honda motor. 8.5l plenum volume. 15.5" runners, plus what's in the head



    20. Member bmxdarcy's Avatar
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      04-03-2011 01:14 AM #20


      i'm curious about the rear of this cage, any tie-ins to the rear strut towers?

    21. Member yellowrocco87's Avatar
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      04-03-2011 11:06 AM #21
      Quote Originally Posted by bmxdarcy View Post


      i'm curious about the rear of this cage, any tie-ins to the rear strut towers?
      no theres no tie-ins to the rear strut towers. That isn't needed being that these rear bars tie into the OEM frame of the car that sits right behind the tail lights. We built the cage to utilize full interior being the car is raced in a street car class.
      K&H fabrication...find us on Facebook! www.facebook.com/khfabrication!
      back in the game...but RWD and skidracin
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    22. Member nubVR's Avatar
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      05-24-2011 09:43 AM #22
      Turn that welder up to it's highest setting, and typically with those little ones I find my wire speed way slower then the little chart tells you it needs to be at. This will help with your splatter... Also like you said make sure your ground is touching bare metal, some times it helps if your ground is directly on the piece your working, not hooked to a table then going through your piece, not sure wich way you have it. Keep up the practice!

    23. Member MKIGTITDI's Avatar
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      05-24-2011 11:43 AM #23
      Cleanliness is godliness as well yes you sdaid that you ground to base metal but make sure theres no contaminents. Also you said your using nozzle jelly. make sure all the excess of that is burned off the nozzle before you go to weld. that will make you weld pourous. take the welder to a piece of scrap for a couple of seconds. pictures will make a big difference post em up here and im sure youll get more help that way.

    24. 05-24-2011 03:43 PM #24
      yeah, it's oil and dirt that usually cause porous welds. As it burns it creates another gas inside your shielding gas pocket

    25. Member cabrlicious's Avatar
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      05-24-2011 09:03 PM #25
      Quote Originally Posted by blackvento36 View Post
      yeah, it's oil and dirt that usually cause porous welds. As it burns it creates another gas inside your shielding gas pocket
      now that I think about it I didn't clean my work surface. I need a little welding table. Anybody got like a 2x2 chunk of 1/4" or a little thinner plate they want to donate? That way I could just put it inside and not have to worry about mother nature.
      Quote Originally Posted by David Rock
      I love VWs, I just don't like their transmissions

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      05-24-2011 10:16 PM #26
      As long as you aren't welding directly to your surface to hold things in place, you can just cover your workplace with sheet metal. Get a 1" thick 4x8 sheet of ply and throw a 4x8 sheet of sheet metal (not galvi) on top and you'll be good.

    27. Member nubVR's Avatar
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      05-27-2011 04:19 PM #27
      5" sch 40 y I made today.... 1/2" flange..... 245amps flat footed all the way around, double pass on the flange.
      Welder= Miller Dynasty 350


      Last edited by nubVR; 05-27-2011 at 06:50 PM.

    28. Member
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      05-27-2011 10:01 PM #28
      nice bead pattern

    29. Member cabrlicious's Avatar
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      05-27-2011 10:27 PM #29
      Quote Originally Posted by nubVR View Post
      5" sch 40 y I made today.... 1/2" flange..... 245amps flat footed all the way around, double pass on the flange.
      Welder= Miller Dynasty 350
      How many years of practice yield such immaculate results?

      I noticed a silly steel tchotchke today at my friends house. It was a fisherman welded from bits of nuts, bolts, wire, and real thin sheet. I thought it was tacky as art but really cool that the guy was able to weld huge thick nuts to thin wire, and such. Just imagining the process of making it is what impressed me.
      Quote Originally Posted by David Rock
      I love VWs, I just don't like their transmissions

    30. Member nubVR's Avatar
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      05-27-2011 10:50 PM #30
      Metal art is cool stuff.... when ever im at a farmers market or anything like that, im always checking out metal work people are selling!

      ive been welding for 10 years..... for the last 5 though, i do alot of baby sitting and less welding.... i only weld maybe an 1hour or 2 a week at work... then practice in my garage after work

    31. Member MKIGTITDI's Avatar
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      05-27-2011 10:59 PM #31
      Quote Originally Posted by nubVR View Post
      ive been welding for 10 years..... for the last 5 though, i do alot of baby sitting and less welding.... i only weld maybe an 1hour or 2 a week at work
      Im right there with you on that brother.

    32. Member bmxdarcy's Avatar
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      05-29-2011 08:02 AM #32
      is that 5356 or 4047 rod?

      I'm impartial to the miller/lincoln debate but those dynasty's are really sweet machines.

    33. Member nubVR's Avatar
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      05-29-2011 09:41 AM #33
      Owning a Lincoln at home, and using millers at work..... Miller weld quality is better..... Never once had a failure with the lincold though, so I can't knock it. I used 3/32 5356

    34. Member bmxdarcy's Avatar
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      05-29-2011 09:58 AM #34
      I hear a lot of people say that about millers. We use lincolns at work and evidently they are 10+ years old no failures! There is certainly something to be said for their quality.

      Our work is a bit more cosmetic and rarely do we anodize so we run the 4043 rod. I like that the 4043 rod doesn't frost the puddles, it's also very predictable.

    35. Member nubVR's Avatar
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      05-29-2011 09:35 PM #35
      4043 welds very clean, i dont like how soft it is compared to 5356. I usually only use 4043 on cast, and anything under 1/8th".
      I should take a picture of some of the miller power sources we have at work, i wanna say we have 30-35 from the 60's-70's. Still runnin strong..... Not real ideal on power, i tried telling my company they could cut the power bill in half, and get half of the new machines payed for from government programs and stuff, but there kinda hard headed! Ill get a pic up next week

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