What welder do you use to make stuff, and what stuff have you made with it?
a la show and tell...
I've been using a Lincoln 175, no pulse, for 11 years. Works ok
Last edited by California Jay; 05-22-2010 at 08:33 PM.
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What, no Chinese welders off eBay??
On a more serious note... beautiful welds, Jay! I hope some day I can learn to weld like that.
He didn't post pics in this thread but Markku@Agtronic does awesome fabrication and welding too. I just love TIG welded stainless.
Last edited by Angular; 12-31-2010 at 07:49 PM.
At home i have a miller Diversion 180 tig. havn't done a whole lot with it yet since my gas company sold me a contaminated bottle again
at work we have a miller syncrowave 200 tig, Miller Millermatic 212 multivoltage mig, Miller Millermatic 135 mig, Miller Passport mig (SS wire welder), Miller Plasma Cutter.
heres some things i have built
First roll cage i ever built. Chromoly
and one of me welding in one of many odd positions while building a cage
i like that idea man. no one should be afraid to post there welds up here as its the only way you will ever better yourself.
heres one of my more recent ones with the miller diversion 180 Chromoly subframe for a mk3 GTI
this welder works great for its price and portability. incredible quite when welding on DC and tolerable while welding on AC. I would recommend it to anyone
AEB custom intake manifold with 75MM cable tb for my drag car.
SBC water pump relocation inlet/outlet relocation. (coulda just bought a camero one but this was free)
Water/air IC system:
1998 ford ranger custom body dropped floor, custom frame and cantilever 6 link setup:
Coolant expansion tank... 3 more tanks like that for the power steering, washer rez, and oil catch will be done in a few days.
Thats it for now as always I work for cheap, pm me if you need something.
With tig I like the modern rigs such as this http://www.millerwelds.com/products/...ocess/xmt_350/ with a water cooler for the tig box. The set up is nice and mobile and doesn't take up much space and with the option of a foot pedal or thumb wheel variable controls it makes tig work a dream along with the digital display and the various control options.
That being said I am currently using a 40 year old Linde power box with a remote control box and an amp box with high frequency start and %100 duty cycle and %100 output based on the settings. The trigger is a rubber encased unit that can be located anywhere on the air cooled torch that you want to use for your thumb or fingers. With air cooled torches you have to stop after a few filler rods worth of bead and let the torch cool otherwise it will damage the torch and melt the parts of it that are rubber and plastic.
Regardless of what type of machine your using you have to have a steady hand more so than with other welding processes because tig is really unforgiving of a shaky hand or to fast or slow of travel speed and to slow or quick on adding the filler metal. If your doing pipe you can allow yourself a little push or pull of +/- 5 - 10 degree's but no more as to much push will push the puddle to far ahead overheating the weldmont and pushing it to far back can cause it the bead to lump up.
Use a shield with a shade 10 - 11 lense and uninsulated long leather gloves, the gloves will make it easier to manipulate the torch and feed the filler rod into the puddle and the lense will be about the shade you need. Really make sure you watch your angles specially if you have an application where your not using filler metal because it is more easy to undercut and to blow through specially on thing material. Always make sure the weldmont is cleaned of any contaminates when ever your sharpening your tungsten use a dedicated sharpening wheel to avoid contamination from other metals such as if you have a dual bench grinder use one wheel solely for sharpening your tungsten if your working on stainless steal. For cleaning weldmonts you can use acetone but you have to let it air dry before any welding.
Speaking of stainless you have to watch your temp and travel speed otherwise you could end up burning the bead and surrounding material resulting in a blackened appearance and a weakened material prone to failure. Ideally you want a nice honey wheat colored bead though the coloring can range to a rose gold color and some blue green color but shoot for the honey wheat or rose gold color.
Ok wife is talking to me and I lost my train of thought but always remember that slow and steady wins the race, never get in a hurry or you'll regret it and always keep what your working on clean clean clean.
Hey i didn't want to start a new thread so i thought this would be a decent place to ask.
but I've bin using one of those ****ty harbor freight 90 Amp flux wire Welders for a wile now. honestly i don't care what people say i got it for like $50 with a coupon and I've done a lot of exhaust work and little things here and there with it. its turned out to be the best $50 I've spent just because of the amount of times i didn't have to call a friend or find some one to weld something.
but now i picked up a rabbit and want to do frame notch eventualy raise the towers and control arm mounts. whats my best bet for a good welder that can handle that type of work. cause I'm going to assume the harbor fright one is just not going to give strong enough welds to be safe?
thanks for the help.
Turn that welder up to it's highest setting, and typically with those little ones I find my wire speed way slower then the little chart tells you it needs to be at. This will help with your splatter... Also like you said make sure your ground is touching bare metal, some times it helps if your ground is directly on the piece your working, not hooked to a table then going through your piece, not sure wich way you have it. Keep up the practice!
Cleanliness is godliness as well yes you sdaid that you ground to base metal but make sure theres no contaminents. Also you said your using nozzle jelly. make sure all the excess of that is burned off the nozzle before you go to weld. that will make you weld pourous. take the welder to a piece of scrap for a couple of seconds. pictures will make a big difference post em up here and im sure youll get more help that way.
Originally Posted by David Rock
I noticed a silly steel tchotchke today at my friends house. It was a fisherman welded from bits of nuts, bolts, wire, and real thin sheet. I thought it was tacky as art but really cool that the guy was able to weld huge thick nuts to thin wire, and such. Just imagining the process of making it is what impressed me.
Originally Posted by David Rock
Metal art is cool stuff.... when ever im at a farmers market or anything like that, im always checking out metal work people are selling!
ive been welding for 10 years..... for the last 5 though, i do alot of baby sitting and less welding.... i only weld maybe an 1hour or 2 a week at work... then practice in my garage after work
Owning a Lincoln at home, and using millers at work..... Miller weld quality is better..... Never once had a failure with the lincold though, so I can't knock it. I used 3/32 5356
I hear a lot of people say that about millers. We use lincolns at work and evidently they are 10+ years old no failures! There is certainly something to be said for their quality.
Our work is a bit more cosmetic and rarely do we anodize so we run the 4043 rod. I like that the 4043 rod doesn't frost the puddles, it's also very predictable.
4043 welds very clean, i dont like how soft it is compared to 5356. I usually only use 4043 on cast, and anything under 1/8th".
I should take a picture of some of the miller power sources we have at work, i wanna say we have 30-35 from the 60's-70's. Still runnin strong..... Not real ideal on power, i tried telling my company they could cut the power bill in half, and get half of the new machines payed for from government programs and stuff, but there kinda hard headed! Ill get a pic up next week
some simple control arms for a RWD Honda DelSol project. 1.5" .120 wall DOM, QA1 tube adapters and rod ends. The adapters are welded to some 1.25" .90 wall first, then the 1.25" slides inside the 1.5" dom... because nobody makes a tube adapter for smaller hiems and larger tubing.
the ones tacked are fixed at 13.25" and the customer said he didn't want them ever moving and asked that they be tacked. I cant fully weld them because the PTFE liner would melt. at least this way if need be they can grind the tiny tack out and replace the rod ends still. Now that I looked at it, I should have just put the jamb nut on them, adjusted them and tacked the jamb nut. ohh well customer is always right.
Last edited by kkkustom; 05-31-2011 at 01:40 PM.
I finally got the bulk of my spring cleaning done so outside for some welding practice, and naturally I continued to have the penetration problem like I've had all along. This time I took plenty of pics, seeing as how I found my camera while cleaning
Originally Posted by David Rock