Username or Email Address
Do you already have an account?
Forgot your password?
  • Log in or Sign up

    VWVortex


    Page 5 of 19 FirstFirst 12345678915 ... LastLast
    Results 101 to 125 of 474

    Thread: welder show and tell

    1. 05-16-2011 03:40 PM #101
      wire isnt wire. Farm migg'ers might not feel, hear, see the difference but a pro will.

      Purity of metal, cleanliness of the spool. Age and how it was stored. Heck a welder buddy of mine was having issues with his mig at work, sputtering and popping here and there then it would be fine, then start back up... and all kinds of crap. Fought with settings, changed gas tanks, tips, spool tension, roller tension... nothing seemed to be working.

      Then he though you know this is a lot like when someone changes the wire to a thinner gauge and doesn't change the feed tip on the torch. so when it started acting up again he shut the machine off and stripped out a few feet of wire. put it through a new tip and noticed it was way too loose. pulled another 20 feet of wire and tested the fit in the same tip, and it was fine.

      Turned out the spool of wire was apart of a recalled group of spools from Lincoln for having inconsistent wire gauges.

    2. Member MKIGTITDI's Avatar
      Join Date
      Aug 25th, 2007
      Location
      Roseburg Oregon
      Posts
      1,160
      Vehicles
      1977 VW Scirocco soon to have a tdi!
      05-16-2011 05:12 PM #102
      Huh ive never ran into that problem fortunately. when was this recall? that would have pissed me off.

    3. 05-16-2011 05:57 PM #103
      Quote Originally Posted by kkkustom View Post
      wire isnt wire. Farm migg'ers might not feel, hear, see the difference but a pro will.

      Purity of metal, cleanliness of the spool. Age and how it was stored. Heck a welder buddy of mine was having issues with his mig at work, sputtering and popping here and there then it would be fine, then start back up... and all kinds of crap. Fought with settings, changed gas tanks, tips, spool tension, roller tension... nothing seemed to be working.

      Then he though you know this is a lot like when someone changes the wire to a thinner gauge and doesn't change the feed tip on the torch. so when it started acting up again he shut the machine off and stripped out a few feet of wire. put it through a new tip and noticed it was way too loose. pulled another 20 feet of wire and tested the fit in the same tip, and it was fine.

      Turned out the spool of wire was apart of a recalled group of spools from Lincoln for having inconsistent wire gauges.
      But now you're talking about dirty and defective wire, which really has nothing to do with what I said. The guy was asking about brands. I'm sure he's not looking to buy a spool that's been sitting unwrapped in somebodys garage for 3 years.

    4. Member cabrlicious's Avatar
      Join Date
      Jan 27th, 2008
      Location
      jersey burbs
      Posts
      1,045
      Vehicles
      12v bimbo bucket, 16v rabbit, buy my b4 wagon please!
      05-16-2011 06:42 PM #104
      Quote Originally Posted by blackvento36 View Post
      ...I'm sure he's not looking to buy a spool that's been sitting unwrapped in somebodys garage for 3 years.
      you know for what it's worth the wire that was in the machine might have been three years old and the machine does live in a garage hah. It's raining all week... not prime welding weather. I wish I had a garage myself.
      Quote Originally Posted by David Rock
      I love VWs, I just don't like their transmissions

    5. 05-16-2011 06:42 PM #105
      Quote Originally Posted by PeOpLeG60T View Post
      i have a quick question about the Diversion 165 , it says the max thickness for alum is 3/16" , what does this stands for ? what if i wanna weld a 3/8" TB flange to a 1/8" thick plenum ?

      or it stands for 3/16" max penetration or something? or just does not put out enough heat to weld thicker plate ? im on the hunt for a used TIG welder on a 1k$ budget
      The thickness rating is what the welder penetrate in 1 pass. If you're welding 1/8" to 3/8" you're pretty much welding 1/8" since you're not looking to penetrate any further than that. If you need to weld something thicker than 3/16" you can weld from both sides or bevel it deeper and run root and filler passes. Sometimes you weld things that are thicker that don't need full penetration, in that case it's fine to use a smaller machine. Preheating will stretch the machine a little bit too.

    6. 05-16-2011 06:51 PM #106
      Quote Originally Posted by cabrlicious View Post
      you know for what it's worth the wire that was in the machine might have been three years old and the machine does live in a garage hah. It's raining all week... not prime welding weather. I wish I had a garage myself.
      In that case you should probably pop the spool out and get a new one, wire is cheap. All I'm saying is that when you go to the welding supply don't stress yourself out whether to get the Lincoln or Hobart wire (or whatever else)

    7. Member
      Join Date
      Apr 4th, 2011
      Location
      VirginiaBeach
      Posts
      297
      Vehicles
      01 jetta vr6 glx wagon
      05-16-2011 08:09 PM #107
      Quote Originally Posted by cabrlicious View Post
      my loaner mig ran out of wire last night just when I got set up to tack something together. hah figures. I'd like to know what are the good brands of wire... I want to try to make it as easy as possible, since before my welds came out pretty inconsistent. The funny thing was, I'd make a nice bead, and then a terrible one without changing settings on the welder... don't get it.
      I'll see what we use at work tomorrow but the stuff runs real smooth though I am using 1/16 71t1hyn.

      Generally a good bead then a bad one comes down to operator error and with fluxcore you really have to stay on top of your travel and work angles otherwise you'll get a ****ty bead. Temp and wire speed is critical to specially when doing vertical with an open root and working with thin material. Myself I'd rather go back to running stainless stick than work any more with fluxcore but its not my decision.

      Try http://www.weldingweb.com for advice and tips, its been indispensable to me in dealing with many welding issues ranging through smaw to mig to fluxcore to tig and from mild steel to stainless to aluminum.

    8. Member cabrlicious's Avatar
      Join Date
      Jan 27th, 2008
      Location
      jersey burbs
      Posts
      1,045
      Vehicles
      12v bimbo bucket, 16v rabbit, buy my b4 wagon please!
      05-17-2011 10:59 AM #108
      yeah I gather most of the inconsistency is probably coming right from me, though I do try and do it as repeatably as possible. And I am going to buy new wire because i ran out hah
      Quote Originally Posted by David Rock
      I love VWs, I just don't like their transmissions

    9. Member MKIGTITDI's Avatar
      Join Date
      Aug 25th, 2007
      Location
      Roseburg Oregon
      Posts
      1,160
      Vehicles
      1977 VW Scirocco soon to have a tdi!
      05-17-2011 01:25 PM #109
      being able to consistantly weld time after time take alot of pracice and experience. ive gotten to the point with tig welding that i can fall asleep and still end up with a nice bead...At the cost of burnt fingers a rude awakening and being written up for ruining a frame....Like i said experience and practice are key.

    10. Member
      Join Date
      Apr 4th, 2011
      Location
      VirginiaBeach
      Posts
      297
      Vehicles
      01 jetta vr6 glx wagon
      05-17-2011 08:16 PM #110
      Quote Originally Posted by cabrlicious View Post
      yeah I gather most of the inconsistency is probably coming right from me, though I do try and do it as repeatably as possible. And I am going to buy new wire because i ran out hah
      The wire we use at work is ESAB military grade fluxcore .035 / .045 / 1/16 diameter wire with the largest running $150 a roll in bulk which is generally 2 to a box 12 boxes to a layer 8 layers on a pallet.

      Which ever arm is not dominate should be used to support the dominate arm as it holds the mig gun. In my instance I use my left to support my right and my left arm always rests on a solid surface or my leg for stability. Doing this will add stability to your bead as you weld along the line which takes some worry off your shoulders so you can focus on maintaining a consistent travel speed and the correct work angle.

      Another thing you can do is to practice without welding by taking a dowel rod about a foot and half in length and about the diameter of a pencil and hold it like you would a mig gun and follow a line on the wall or table for about a foot. This will allow you to see at what point in your travel path you start to change travel / work angles and your travel speed. The length of the rod will also allow you to see how much natural shake you have in your upper body and allow you to focus on getting it under control.

      A trick you can do to work on your travel speed is to get a hobby airbrush kit along with some food dyes and water. Put some water into the bottle and pour in a few drops of food dye, use a medium spray tip and then spray a path along a line on some white paper. The width of the pattern from the spray will change with your travel speed and give you something to work with on controlling that for greater consistency and the water and food dyes are biodegradable and cheap.

    11. Junior Member
      Join Date
      Sep 27th, 2010
      Location
      Portland ME
      Posts
      63
      05-17-2011 08:26 PM #111
      big65, do you have any tips for practicing TIG?

    12. Member cabrlicious's Avatar
      Join Date
      Jan 27th, 2008
      Location
      jersey burbs
      Posts
      1,045
      Vehicles
      12v bimbo bucket, 16v rabbit, buy my b4 wagon please!
      05-24-2011 03:52 AM #112
      well got some wire from the depot. Same exact wire that was in the welder, which itself probably came from home depot.

      I'm trying to learn technique a bit before welding up my mk2 recaro seat frames for my mk3. If it wasn't structural I'd already be done, but, I'm not trusting my own ass to crummy welds.

      So some questions ... I keep getting porous welds. Not all of them, but most of the time. I'm starting to wonder if somehow my gas is contaminated, but that sounds silly. Surely its just my set up. What is the more likely culprit: wrong gas flow rate or not clean enough metal? I've been grinding down to fresh metal, isn't that all you need?

      So aside from that I've been trying to get a feel for pushing the pool around and what wire speed and amperage to use. I really feel like if I had a fancier welder with more than 4 positions for amperage I'd have an easier time. Maybe that's just newbie moaning. I got a great looking bead on a butt weld but even that one wasn't penetrating deep enough.

      Next time I go out there I'm gonna go to town on the ground clamp and the mig nozzle again. I bought some nozzle jelly since it tends to gunk up. The fact that theres that much crap shooting off the weld makes me think I haven't prepped enough somehow, but I fail to see how. Next day I do some more practice I'm gonna write down what I did and take pictures so I can remember more clearly between sessions and also be specific when asking for help.
      Quote Originally Posted by David Rock
      I love VWs, I just don't like their transmissions

    13. Member nubVR's Avatar
      Join Date
      Apr 24th, 2004
      Location
      Vancouver Wa
      Posts
      1,869
      Vehicles
      '00 Tropic Orange VR6BT
      05-24-2011 09:43 AM #113
      Turn that welder up to it's highest setting, and typically with those little ones I find my wire speed way slower then the little chart tells you it needs to be at. This will help with your splatter... Also like you said make sure your ground is touching bare metal, some times it helps if your ground is directly on the piece your working, not hooked to a table then going through your piece, not sure wich way you have it. Keep up the practice!

    14. Member MKIGTITDI's Avatar
      Join Date
      Aug 25th, 2007
      Location
      Roseburg Oregon
      Posts
      1,160
      Vehicles
      1977 VW Scirocco soon to have a tdi!
      05-24-2011 11:43 AM #114
      Cleanliness is godliness as well yes you sdaid that you ground to base metal but make sure theres no contaminents. Also you said your using nozzle jelly. make sure all the excess of that is burned off the nozzle before you go to weld. that will make you weld pourous. take the welder to a piece of scrap for a couple of seconds. pictures will make a big difference post em up here and im sure youll get more help that way.

    15. 05-24-2011 03:43 PM #115
      yeah, it's oil and dirt that usually cause porous welds. As it burns it creates another gas inside your shielding gas pocket

    16. Member cabrlicious's Avatar
      Join Date
      Jan 27th, 2008
      Location
      jersey burbs
      Posts
      1,045
      Vehicles
      12v bimbo bucket, 16v rabbit, buy my b4 wagon please!
      05-24-2011 09:03 PM #116
      Quote Originally Posted by blackvento36 View Post
      yeah, it's oil and dirt that usually cause porous welds. As it burns it creates another gas inside your shielding gas pocket
      now that I think about it I didn't clean my work surface. I need a little welding table. Anybody got like a 2x2 chunk of 1/4" or a little thinner plate they want to donate? That way I could just put it inside and not have to worry about mother nature.
      Quote Originally Posted by David Rock
      I love VWs, I just don't like their transmissions

    17. Junior Member
      Join Date
      Sep 27th, 2010
      Location
      Portland ME
      Posts
      63
      05-24-2011 10:16 PM #117
      As long as you aren't welding directly to your surface to hold things in place, you can just cover your workplace with sheet metal. Get a 1" thick 4x8 sheet of ply and throw a 4x8 sheet of sheet metal (not galvi) on top and you'll be good.

    18. Member MKIGTITDI's Avatar
      Join Date
      Aug 25th, 2007
      Location
      Roseburg Oregon
      Posts
      1,160
      Vehicles
      1977 VW Scirocco soon to have a tdi!
      05-24-2011 10:41 PM #118
      Dude i did a ton of welding on stacks of pallets as a work bench.

    19. Member
      Join Date
      Apr 4th, 2011
      Location
      VirginiaBeach
      Posts
      297
      Vehicles
      01 jetta vr6 glx wagon
      05-24-2011 11:10 PM #119
      I'm actually working on tig pipe at the moment to refresh myself before going to aluminum tig. Give me a day and I'll post my tips for tiging with the newer digital machines and the older machines for mild steel.

    20. Member MKIGTITDI's Avatar
      Join Date
      Aug 25th, 2007
      Location
      Roseburg Oregon
      Posts
      1,160
      Vehicles
      1977 VW Scirocco soon to have a tdi!
      05-24-2011 11:23 PM #120
      In all honesty ive found the old syncowave three phase welders out preform any of the newer digital welders in preformance for time after time consistancy but its all preference. Plus i didnt work with many shops that had too many of them on the floor so ive only worked with them a handful of times so i may be a bit biased.

    21. Member
      Join Date
      Apr 4th, 2011
      Location
      VirginiaBeach
      Posts
      297
      Vehicles
      01 jetta vr6 glx wagon
      05-24-2011 11:27 PM #121
      Quote Originally Posted by MKIGTITDI View Post
      Dude i did a ton of welding on stacks of pallets as a work bench.
      good way to start a bbq.

      Oil, grease, dirt, paint, rust, most cleaners, water, you name it it can cause porosity and if your using fluxcore wire and your pushing the bead you could end up with slag causing it due to the bead cooling before you get through it. Flux is more fluid than regular mig so you generally have to move faster but with those little buzz boxes you have to go slower due to the low output and the size of the wire. Use acetone to clean the area to be welded and let dry, make sure that you have good gas flow and little to no drafts coming through that will disrupt the shielding gas from the bottle and from the fluxcore itself as this will cause porosity. A higher voltage will ease the spatter and a lower wire speed will help as well even with vertical though not much there.

    22. Member
      Join Date
      Apr 4th, 2011
      Location
      VirginiaBeach
      Posts
      297
      Vehicles
      01 jetta vr6 glx wagon
      05-24-2011 11:40 PM #122
      Quote Originally Posted by MKIGTITDI View Post
      In all honesty ive found the old syncowave three phase welders out preform any of the newer digital welders in preformance for time after time consistancy but its all preference. Plus i didnt work with many shops that had too many of them on the floor so ive only worked with them a handful of times so i may be a bit biased.
      Loves me a miller xmt setup for mig tig and smaw ac/dc 300 amp %100 duty cycle with water cooler for the tig and it all sits on one cart.....just gives me shivers thinking back on it.

    23. Member
      Join Date
      Apr 4th, 2011
      Location
      VirginiaBeach
      Posts
      297
      Vehicles
      01 jetta vr6 glx wagon
      05-25-2011 08:52 PM #123
      With tig I like the modern rigs such as this http://www.millerwelds.com/products/...ocess/xmt_350/ with a water cooler for the tig box. The set up is nice and mobile and doesn't take up much space and with the option of a foot pedal or thumb wheel variable controls it makes tig work a dream along with the digital display and the various control options.

      That being said I am currently using a 40 year old Linde power box with a remote control box and an amp box with high frequency start and %100 duty cycle and %100 output based on the settings. The trigger is a rubber encased unit that can be located anywhere on the air cooled torch that you want to use for your thumb or fingers. With air cooled torches you have to stop after a few filler rods worth of bead and let the torch cool otherwise it will damage the torch and melt the parts of it that are rubber and plastic.

      Regardless of what type of machine your using you have to have a steady hand more so than with other welding processes because tig is really unforgiving of a shaky hand or to fast or slow of travel speed and to slow or quick on adding the filler metal. If your doing pipe you can allow yourself a little push or pull of +/- 5 - 10 degree's but no more as to much push will push the puddle to far ahead overheating the weldmont and pushing it to far back can cause it the bead to lump up.

      Use a shield with a shade 10 - 11 lense and uninsulated long leather gloves, the gloves will make it easier to manipulate the torch and feed the filler rod into the puddle and the lense will be about the shade you need. Really make sure you watch your angles specially if you have an application where your not using filler metal because it is more easy to undercut and to blow through specially on thing material. Always make sure the weldmont is cleaned of any contaminates when ever your sharpening your tungsten use a dedicated sharpening wheel to avoid contamination from other metals such as if you have a dual bench grinder use one wheel solely for sharpening your tungsten if your working on stainless steal. For cleaning weldmonts you can use acetone but you have to let it air dry before any welding.

      Speaking of stainless you have to watch your temp and travel speed otherwise you could end up burning the bead and surrounding material resulting in a blackened appearance and a weakened material prone to failure. Ideally you want a nice honey wheat colored bead though the coloring can range to a rose gold color and some blue green color but shoot for the honey wheat or rose gold color.

      Ok wife is talking to me and I lost my train of thought but always remember that slow and steady wins the race, never get in a hurry or you'll regret it and always keep what your working on clean clean clean.

    24. Member MKIGTITDI's Avatar
      Join Date
      Aug 25th, 2007
      Location
      Roseburg Oregon
      Posts
      1,160
      Vehicles
      1977 VW Scirocco soon to have a tdi!
      05-25-2011 10:38 PM #124
      Quote Originally Posted by big65 View Post
      good way to start a bbq.
      Eh i live my life dangerously. plus it was only a little 125 flux core so not much in the form of sparks that would actualyy start a pallet on fire. I must say on the whole digital set ups ive always prefered analog machines. Guess i get more of a feel for them. Plus ive seen many younger (should say newer) welders that use the digital settings religously and never fully learn how to properly set up a welder. I love the old linde machines for power sources. ive ran many of mile of various type of welds using those. as well as the older lincoln 1000 amp power sources. those more so for sub arc and the 600 for dual shield. Never really used the thumb controls on tig actually ive maybe used it a handful of times. Ive been spoiled with the foot pedal.
      Last edited by MKIGTITDI; 05-25-2011 at 10:43 PM.

    25. Member
      Join Date
      Apr 4th, 2011
      Location
      VirginiaBeach
      Posts
      297
      Vehicles
      01 jetta vr6 glx wagon
      05-25-2011 11:28 PM #125
      I love the foot pedal to with the variable control so I can tailor the heat to the location within the bead, this high frequency to full on to high frequency nonsense bothers me and the air cooled torch is another thing I dont care for considering that I can't take the heat past 6 without risking melting the red rubber sleeve.

    Page 5 of 19 FirstFirst 12345678915 ... LastLast

    Posting Permissions

    • You may not post new threads
    • You may not post replies
    • You may not post attachments
    • You may not edit your posts
    •