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    Thread: welder show and tell

    1. Member Pat @ Pitt Soundworks's Avatar
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      10-18-2011 01:29 PM #226
      I obviously can't speak for any of the aluminum guys, but to work on your timing, manually pulse the current. I find the more I absorb myself in to the work, the more consistent it becomes. When im walking the cup, especially on pipe welding, I will sway my whole body to keep the tempo. if I don't, I get sloppy and uncontrolled. I know that doesn't work for most, but its the only way I can do it.

    2. 10-18-2011 01:34 PM #227
      Quote Originally Posted by Pat @ Pitt Soundworks View Post
      I obviously can't speak for any of the aluminum guys, but to work on your timing, manually pulse the current. I find the more I absorb myself in to the work, the more consistent it becomes. When im walking the cup, especially on pipe welding, I will sway my whole body to keep the tempo. if I don't, I get sloppy and uncontrolled. I know that doesn't work for most, but its the only way I can do it.
      I turn up the Godsmack cd really loud so I cant even hear the arc, makes me focus on the weld pool more! LOL

    3. Member nubVR's Avatar
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      10-18-2011 08:53 PM #228
      Quote Originally Posted by kkkustom View Post
      Question for ya on the pulse.

      I only played with scrap with it and on any production work I turn it off becasue i am not confidant in my setup skills/knowhow with using it. I haven't turned it down in hz to try to get consistent walking welds. I turned it up and tried it with AC and noticed it helped agitate the puddle and seemed like it cleaned it a bit more with the same EN setting i would normally use without the pulse. Speaking of which, for the aluminum master, what freq do you like with your AC? (not talking pulse here, just curious)
      What welder are you using?? I know on my square wave at work, its all pre set to settings that we set like 3 years ago...All i do is change my amperage! Also, never really use pulse when i tig, i dont like the flucuation of the light, it bugs my eyes! I also manually use the peddle if i do need to pulse. At home, i just have a little dial that i turn and it has a blinking light, no real number there. and as far as the cleaning setting, i put my lincoln on auto, it seems to work just fine, i know thats no real help to your question though.

      When you do the pulsing, for bead consistency (I assume lower freq like 2-5 per sec) you are laying filler and just walking over it with the torch? Yeah thats about rightYour are you trying to dab on the hot side of the pulse? Yes the hot side is when you wanna drop in the rod, that way it sucks it down into the material. If the later I should just give up now becasue I cant even walk and chew gum, so no way could I catch the hot pulse and dab/get out until it slopped to the cool side! lol

      Quote Originally Posted by Pat @ Pitt Soundworks View Post
      I obviously can't speak for any of the aluminum guys, but to work on your timing, manually pulse the current. I find the more I absorb myself in to the work, the more consistent it becomes. When im walking the cup, especially on pipe welding, I will sway my whole body to keep the tempo. if I don't, I get sloppy and uncontrolled. I know that doesn't work for most, but its the only way I can do it.
      Im the same way..... not quite a whole sway, but i need a rythem in my head
      Quote Originally Posted by kkkustom View Post
      I turn up the Godsmack cd really loud so I cant even hear the arc, makes me focus on the weld pool more! LOL
      Hearing the pool actually helps in TIG welding..... I can get a nice sound going just like a MIG, when you drop that rod in, it is actually cooling the metal a bit, get a nice rythem going, and thats what makes it so shiney

    4. Member Curt_pnw's Avatar
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      11-08-2011 06:43 AM #229
      We have a Everlast Powertig 250EX at our shop. I started aluminum TIG about 3 months ago. I have a bit of seat time with oxy-acetylene and mig, but I like TIG welding more than anything.

      Here's just some practice stuff on scrap. The material is 6061 T6. 1/8th inch thick I believe.






      I hope to frequent this part of the forums to learn as much as I can. Seems like there are a lot of knowledgeable people on here.

    5. Member digga_b's Avatar
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      11-08-2011 06:37 PM #230
      Started on a Smoker.





      Until I ran out of wire. More on the way...


    6. Member nubVR's Avatar
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      11-08-2011 07:41 PM #231
      Killer smoaker.... i was gettin ready to make one my self..... show us pics when your done

    7. Member digga_b's Avatar
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      11-11-2011 03:44 PM #232
      Quote Originally Posted by nubVR View Post
      Killer smoaker.... i was gettin ready to make one my self..... show us pics when your done
      Do it! Everyone should have one.


    8. Member Pat @ Pitt Soundworks's Avatar
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      11-11-2011 07:02 PM #233
      I was always told never to mig like that because the movement limits heat input. Thoughts?

    9. Member digga_b's Avatar
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      11-11-2011 09:00 PM #234
      Quote Originally Posted by Pat @ Pitt Soundworks View Post
      I was always told never to mig like that because the movement limits heat input. Thoughts?
      I was taught to mig with side to side motion. But when I became a Millwright about 13 years ago, they insisted that I weld with a circle motion. As long as you stay in your puddle, there should be no problem with penetration. I've been tested this way and had no issues with porosity, inclusions, or incomplete fusions.

    10. Member nubVR's Avatar
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      11-11-2011 09:29 PM #235
      Its the only way i MIG.... aluminum or steel..... never had any problems

    11. Member dasbeast3.0's Avatar
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      11-15-2011 11:00 PM #236
      Great thread, a lot of you guys are turning out some crazy work.

      This is going to be a fairly long post, But I really would like some pointers/ input.

      By no means can I call myself a "welder" but in about 2 years of welding (handler 140 mig) I picked it up ok. I chopped up a holset hx52 turbine housing to get it fitted on a vr, partially fabbed a manifold, dp and exhaust. I bought a roll of 309ss which is for joining SS and mild steel from what ive read, but wound up just doing the entire job with it (most piping was 304ss).

      I had someone tig the initial twinscroll mani from factory cast manifolds, to t4 flange. I did the rest. I had trouble getting a nice bead with the SS out of the Hobart, I could get it perfect for a few inches then the filler would build up and drip, this went on the entire time and made the welds look like trash. Only cure was turning up wire speed a hair which was then "too fast" and I felt like it did not penetrate as well. Youll see through the pics how much i adjusted settings by the diff. looks of the welds. Only nice one I did was the vband on the turbine housing only b/c i could weld pretty hot. Gas was used was Tri-Mix. Not sure if its my technique, wrong wire, low quality welder, limited at 115v etc. ? regardless ill post pics and see what some of you think. Thanks in advance

      Orig. turbine housing:


      cut:



      t4 and vband welded on:













      Warped flange (machine shop flattened it out




      Next is the manifold:

      Tig'd section:



      My part = wg's, recirc, and dp:










      DP:






    12. Member Pat @ Pitt Soundworks's Avatar
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      11-15-2011 11:13 PM #237
      You gotta heat cast to weld it. About 250-400 depending on the thickness. then you are supposed to cool it very slowly. wrap it in some heavy blankets. Cast loves to crack if it's not done right.

      And on the downpipe, on the flex joint it looks like it needs more heat. On the rest, you need to go slower - work on consistancy. Any if you didn't purge it, you needed to.

    13. Member dasbeast3.0's Avatar
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      11-16-2011 12:05 AM #238
      The cast stuff was heated with a blow torch, welded and cooled slowly, again with the torch. Prob over the course of and hr or so. I researched a bit before welding on the housing. I did not purge anything, I do not have the setup to do it. This was more of a rush job/learning experience so I guess ill see how long it holds up. The issue with the filler backing up was my major setback, I had to keep messing with my settings to no avail.

      Normally, using 75/25 and mild steel wire, I can get damn near perfect welds with only minor adjustments to my wire speed if any. SS isnt near as easy to do a clean job. I tried every heat setting and wire speed within spec. I tried different welding techniques etc. It just didnt want to happen. I prob just need to dedicate some time, practice and research with SS.

    14. Member Pat @ Pitt Soundworks's Avatar
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      11-16-2011 12:48 AM #239
      haha absolutely. Try stainless stick. It's an unforgiving mother****er.

      For the company I work for WPQs we do cast stainless only with stick. Cast steel to anything other alloy we have PQRs in the works for tig and stick using inconel only. Inconel stick isn't much fun either, especially out of position.

      For exhaust tubing, until I get a tig at the house worth of working with, I use a little hobart handler 140 with heat on 2 and wfs on about 20 and stitch weld it. The heat is just enough to get full pen and pulsing keeps it from blowing through. I'd never do anything structural like that though.
      Last edited by Pat @ Pitt Soundworks; 11-16-2011 at 12:53 AM.

    15. Member Minty_Fresh's Avatar
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      11-16-2011 02:10 AM #240
      Hey i didn't want to start a new thread so i thought this would be a decent place to ask.

      but I've bin using one of those ****ty harbor freight 90 Amp flux wire Welders for a wile now. honestly i don't care what people say i got it for like $50 with a coupon and I've done a lot of exhaust work and little things here and there with it. its turned out to be the best $50 I've spent just because of the amount of times i didn't have to call a friend or find some one to weld something.

      but now i picked up a rabbit and want to do frame notch eventualy raise the towers and control arm mounts. whats my best bet for a good welder that can handle that type of work. cause I'm going to assume the harbor fright one is just not going to give strong enough welds to be safe?

      thanks for the help.

    16. Member dasbeast3.0's Avatar
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      11-16-2011 11:03 PM #241
      Quote Originally Posted by Pat @ Pitt Soundworks View Post
      haha absolutely. Try stainless stick. It's an unforgiving mother****er.

      For the company I work for WPQs we do cast stainless only with stick. Cast steel to anything other alloy we have PQRs in the works for tig and stick using inconel only. Inconel stick isn't much fun either, especially out of position.

      For exhaust tubing, until I get a tig at the house worth of working with, I use a little hobart handler 140 with heat on 2 and wfs on about 20 and stitch weld it. The heat is just enough to get full pen and pulsing keeps it from blowing through. I'd never do anything structural like that though.
      Doesnt sound like its too easy. The 140 is great for exhaust work etc. and when plugged directly into a dedicated outlet close to the panel, you dont get the voltage/amp drop as compared to an extension cord or long run from the panel. That was my only saving grace when I welded the housing. I had it running at full tilt and was able to hit it from both inside and out, stack welds and get a nice deep hot joint. I did my research and took every precaution to do it right, hopefully it lasts a long while, if not I can always redo it.

      I installed the elec for my neighbor's 240v hobart 180mig today, hooked up my trimix and SS wire to test it out. Night an day difference from the 115V 140mig. I was able to get MUCH cleaner welds, much easier..even at low amperage. Is there normally that much difference when going from 115v mig to 240v mig?

    17. Member Pat @ Pitt Soundworks's Avatar
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      11-17-2011 12:04 AM #242
      Absolutely. I've never tried tig at 110, and I don't think I ever want to. Even the difference between 220 and 440 is noticeable, but not as much as going from 110 to 220, or one phase to three phase.

      There's a reason why 110 welders are called "hobby welders" hah

    18. Member dasbeast3.0's Avatar
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      11-17-2011 01:04 AM #243
      True. Im going to just buy a 240v mig and call it a day. The 140 has served its purpose but I've def outgrown it.

      I'm having second thoughts about this turbine housing holding up now. I may pop it off and have a Prof. welder clean it up/ do some structural welding. Kind of a crucial part.

    19. Member Vegeta Gti's Avatar
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      11-21-2011 07:28 PM #244
      Having moved 8000 miles away four years ago, I got a little 110....I effin hate it, bought a House had my buddy install 220. Thinking of saving up for a mig/tig combo....but more than likely just a solid mig.

      Probably go miller this time, every mig I have had has been a lincoln....always had a miller tig, I feel the millers are far better...obviously lol

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      What vegeta said.

    20. Member Vegeta Gti's Avatar
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      11-21-2011 07:55 PM #245
      Any thoughts on a miller dimension 302...used one for sale by me....

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      What vegeta said.

    21. Member nubVR's Avatar
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      11-22-2011 12:23 AM #246
      Looks like there a 3 phase only machine.... not sure what power options you have..... Also to TIG aluminum you need highfrequency... i dont think that has it.

    22. Member fastmaxxcooper's Avatar
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      11-22-2011 01:16 PM #247
      Quote Originally Posted by Pat @ Pitt Soundworks View Post
      You gotta heat cast to weld it. About 250-400 depending on the thickness. then you are supposed to cool it very slowly. wrap it in some heavy blankets. Cast loves to crack if it's not done right.

      And on the downpipe, on the flex joint it looks like it needs more heat. On the rest, you need to go slower - work on consistancy. Any if you didn't purge it, you needed to.
      you can absolutely weld cast iron cold. It just takes a lot longer between welds and there is a lot of peening involved. Ni99 also helps a ton.

    23. Member Vegeta Gti's Avatar
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      11-22-2011 06:54 PM #248
      Quote Originally Posted by nubVR View Post
      Looks like there a 3 phase only machine.... not sure what power options you have..... Also to TIG aluminum you need highfrequency... i dont think that has it.
      This would be my mig, tig I haven't begun to look for lol

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      Quote Originally Posted by .Ant View Post
      What vegeta said.

    24. Member pimS's Avatar
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      11-22-2011 10:06 PM #249
      Here's some of the stuff i've done uptill now.
      I just recently bought a Lincoln V160 invertec

      modded my screamerpipe



      Can't use backinggas at home, because i only have 1 reducer on the cillinder.

      I made a start on my new exhaust manifold this week, fitting a 2.5inch pipe to a T4 flange.



      I really should have stopped after tagging it up. We still have a small wooden workbench in the garage, wich my dad made of our old salon table.
      So i can only weld stuff that's in the vice, otherwise i'll set the table on fire.
      Wich shows in my weld's because i can't set a consistent pace. Plus not being able to place myself in a comfortable position sucks

      Uptill now i've made some exhausts with a friend of mine, in his garage.
      Here's the start of a downpipe for a 1jz lexus is200





      Did a sri for my vrT, wich didn't even fit(i'l be building a good one this winter)



      Made some volicity stacks, fitted them on the wrong ports


      All tips, critics & comments are welcome
      Last edited by pimS; 11-22-2011 at 10:08 PM.
      Ex-VRT owner

    25. Member Pat @ Pitt Soundworks's Avatar
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      11-23-2011 01:57 AM #250
      Anyone have any hands on with the old Idealarc 300/300s?

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