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    Thread: welder show and tell

    1. Member Jckl's Avatar
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      07-15-2011 11:22 PM #201
      Quote Originally Posted by big65 View Post
      Not bad, you want to add the filler closer together as you move along to get the stack of dimes laid over look to ensure a strong bead. Outside of that theres no sign of tungsten dipping that I can see so your doing well so far but the fun really begins when you start doing vertical up and then it gets crazy doing overhead but its nothing until you actually start doing real welds in the real world setting as opposed to practice.

      With the HF starts you should set your machine to continuous which is best suited for aluminum and watch your heat, aluminum never turns red when it gets hot and when it does get to hot it will drop right out of shape like ice turning to water in an instant and it will burn you in a heartbeat.
      The HF was a problem with the machine I fixed today. It wasn't starting the arc most times like it should. I could sit and not get an arc for few minutes without scratch starting. After correcting it, I get an arc started almost immediately every time. As to the beads, I usually put them closer together but thanks for the tip since I was not aware that may not have penetrated right. It looked as if it did on the back side..

      Today I was having a heck of a time with the round pipe and will show it later. I was hot and tired and didn't care to make it look nice lol.. I also did a vertical up to finish off my piece of filler rod and it at first it was a little weird but after a second of adjusting I got it to lay a decent bead. I didn't snap a pic however.
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    2. Member nubVR's Avatar
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      07-16-2011 01:00 AM #202
      Your flats on the plate look good, like he said though, little closer together and your money...... Do a few joints with flat metals to practice with joints..... The real tests, are Pipes... when you can do a pipe all the way around and it looks good you got it! Dont worry when they suck for your first 25-50 of them.... Pipe is way harder then people think, i cant explain why, and it took me alot of practice to get mine halfway decent, dont get discouraged doing it...just keep going and practicing... it will get better with time!

    3. Member Jckl's Avatar
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      07-16-2011 01:32 AM #203
      Quote Originally Posted by nubVR View Post
      Your flats on the plate look good, like he said though, little closer together and your money...... Do a few joints with flat metals to practice with joints..... The real tests, are Pipes... when you can do a pipe all the way around and it looks good you got it! Dont worry when they suck for your first 25-50 of them.... Pipe is way harder then people think, i cant explain why, and it took me alot of practice to get mine halfway decent, dont get discouraged doing it...just keep going and practicing... it will get better with time!

      Thanks! I did some joints today also and a butt joint was no problem.. I bent it and it didn't break and still looked decent. I went to do an inside corner and ended up burning a hole so then I welded the corner from the outside.. That joint wasn't soo much fun.. My vertical up was better haha. I also welded inside a pipe a little but didn't feel like cutting my tungsten down and switching to my back cap so I didn't go deep on that. I was using a SR-20 torch and the only cups I have for it right now are number 4.. It worked I guess and I didn't want to use my enormous 26 style.
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    4. 07-16-2011 01:57 PM #204
      Those trailers are beautiful!
      Markku Kivinen | Agtronic Motorsport

    5. Member cabrlicious's Avatar
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      07-21-2011 12:33 AM #205
      I got the passenger side seat welded up today. I'm gonna take them out tomorrow so I can get all the bolts in and torque them down good. While I'm at it I'll take some pictures. I'm not sure if its because I wasn't as thorough as usual with cleaning or if its because my power sucks (and I'm pretty sure my power does suck) but I did have a bit of a harder time welding today. Last time I was at my buddy's place hooked up right to the panel practically, this time I was out on my patio on my overloaded 100 amp panel.

      Has anybody reading this thread done the mk2 power recaro -> mk3 swap? I didn't realize just how far to the middle of the car the seats actually sat. I might make a second set of frames where the seat is moved away from the center console a bit. As it is, I'm going to swap back to the 'euro' style center console that came with my car since it will fit a lot better than the cup holder one. That way, I can leave the adjuster knobs facing inwards so I'll have the lean forward things on the outside.

    6. Member MKIGTITDI's Avatar
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      08-25-2011 11:45 AM #206
      Heres my new intake adapter...Its kind of rough... It only took me an hour to put together so its nothing fancy. its more for function than anything else....Would fit in great for the ratrodder crowd. It was welded with a miller 140 amp with a spool gun attachment.

    7. Member Eganx's Avatar
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      08-26-2011 12:14 AM #207
      Its obviously a work in progress.....but this is the climbing wall I'm working on in Seattle. This section will have two 25' overhangs......both meeting the 54' longs truss in the ceiling which at the peak is around 52' high(4" from the insulation). One overhang will start under the HUGE truss that the guy is under in the first pic. I am one of two iron workers on this job......we have a lot of work to do.

      Built with 3" 3/16 angle for the ledgers and most bracing, wall columns are 4" square 1/4 wall 40' tall, columns for the big truss are 6" square, some 6" channel in there also.....

      Using two XMT 350 inverters running 1/16 fluxcore out of the feeders(I had to run one roll of 5/64 or .072 wire we had that had been mispackaged, that **** is huge)





      Last edited by Eganx; 08-26-2011 at 10:34 AM.

    8. Member cabrlicious's Avatar
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      08-26-2011 09:05 PM #208
      Quote Originally Posted by big65 View Post
      Not enough heat and travel speed is jumpy which means that weld could break when you hit a good pothole due to lack of fusion between the two plates and the weld bead. You'll want to use a straight grinder with a bur tip and take out as much of the weld as you can and then redo it with 10 - 15 more amps and use a "W" weave to get penetration into both plates to ensure a solid weld.
      yikes thanks for the advice. It's a good thing I don't drive like a maniac and I'm pretty good about dodging road hazards (or as I describe NJ roads: reverse wack-a-mole).
      As far as a bur tool, is this what you had in mind? http://www.amazon.com/SAIT-45000-Tun.../dp/B000P698AM forgive my ignorance, I've been working exclusively with an electric angle grinder with cutoff wheels. I just found out the bliss known as flap disc, hah... cut off wheels suck for cleaning up rust.



      Quote Originally Posted by Eganx View Post
      this is the climbing wall I'm working on
      I'm amazed at all the pro welding.. tankers, 40 ft structures, all the great exhaust piping. At this rate someone's going to chime in with some tig work on a nuclear reactor or international space station

    9. Member MKIGTITDI's Avatar
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      08-26-2011 10:33 PM #209
      Ill upload some pictures i found on my laptop of work ive done most likely on monday.

    10. Member MKIGTITDI's Avatar
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      09-01-2011 12:22 PM #210
      Theres not welding involved but hers a small fab job i did to repair a trailer with an aluminum frame that couldnt be helped by re-welding it.


      this is how bad the material was at ever intersection.

      Heres my solution to brittle aluminum that isnt going to be helped by the throw some extra metal on the method.

      Heres a close up. I drilled a 27/32" hole through the tubing and sleaved it with a 1/2" shedule 40 pipe then ran the hardwear through.

    11. 09-07-2011 04:06 PM #211
      Hang on, something that cant be help by welding?!?! I thought I would never hear those words.


      If all the joints were welded, correctly and they cracked like that, I would say its back to solidworks for the designer who build that rig.

      I dont see any lateral supports in there to keep it from leaning, and pulling up on the opposite sides tubing/joints maybe causing them to crack like that. and were they welded 360 deg around each joint or just one face of the junction?


      Plates came out cool though, and are over kill i think now, so as long as the tubes aren't the next weakest link I would say its good to go. nice job.

    12. Member MKIGTITDI's Avatar
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      09-07-2011 07:59 PM #212
      Yeah my next step im going to take next year when they come back through is ot reinforce all of the bottome junctions and modify the center top supports to incorporate a brace on the roof as well. Oh to answer you yes all of the junctions were welded all the way around. But on a couple of them they had some d-bag tell them he knew how to weld try to repair a couple of cracked tubes. It looked like a bird shat all ver it and it just broke again.

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      09-09-2011 03:01 PM #213
      made a tip from SS sheet to fit my R32 bumper design...


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    14. Member l88m22vette's Avatar
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      09-09-2011 09:48 PM #214
      That ****in cool Any soundclips?
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      09-09-2011 10:39 PM #215
      Thanks next week. Motor is almost done
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    16. Member 85vwcabby's Avatar
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      10-03-2011 10:43 PM #216
      Still gotta make the cart for it yet... this coffee cart probably won't hold too much longer under this Handler 140...



      Yes, the new cart will be overbuilt, big, and overbuilt. It will have provisions for scraps and stuff on the lowest shelf, and will be capable of holding the smallest to largest CO2/Argon bottle...

      Currently running flux core... I can make some real nice welds with flux core every now and then. First, I gotta replace that ****ty ground clamp that they send with this great little welder. Better ones have more surface area contact and ground the parts better, which automatically equals a better weld...

      I made the fuel injector puller for the Cabby with this welder, as well as fabricating and attaching the flange to the cat on my brother's CR-X. Never did take pics showing all of the fab work I did on that stupid flange... some moron thought it's a good idea to cut the flange off and weld the pipe directly to the ass end of the cat...

      Makes a couple hour project of installing a new proper fitting exhaust into a two day fab this flange and attach it to the cat ordeal... at least the welder, and the recently wired 60 gallon Husky compressor got some work...

      I do have the sketch of the welding cart I plan to make... first I gotta finish this JD 317 repower and a few other projects... there is NO room in the formerly empty and fairly huge pole barn we got here... Plus the Cabby is gonna have to go in there to hibernate for the winter... so I got a LOT of cleaning to do... there's **** everywhere...
      1985 Volkswagen Cabriolet 5 speed, powered by the stock JH 1.8L 8 Valve ...... Needs a little work... lots got done...

      1987 parts Cabby The engine from this will be rebuilt/refreshed and push 250-300 hp... then dropped into the 85

    17. 10-05-2011 08:56 PM #217
      Quote Originally Posted by psychobandito View Post


      Miller Invision 456P.

      I also use a Syncrowave 250 for all my tig work, no current pictures.
      Hello fellow ex co-worker...lol...It's Damian... DUDE...i lost my phone pm me your number
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    18. 10-05-2011 08:58 PM #218



      Only got 2 pictures
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    19. 10-06-2011 05:26 PM #219
      From today. Aluminum and welded with a syncrowave 350
      92 mk2 jetta VR6
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    20. Member nubVR's Avatar
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      10-14-2011 08:16 PM #220
      Heres the last couple months project......



      Car hasnt been washed in 4 weeks, i dont wanna hear bout it.....


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      10-17-2011 08:22 AM #221
      1 side of a V10 M5 BMW custom 2.5'' echaust SS TIG'd with syncrowave 200. polished, Vband'd. custom staggered tips.
      back, one side...

      front half..."Xpipe" cat and res delete

      Last edited by nothing-leaves-stock; 10-17-2011 at 12:13 PM.
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    22. 10-17-2011 07:32 PM #222
      nub.. in the first picture, is it pulsed? INCREDIBLY consistent.. looks beautiful
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    23. Member nubVR's Avatar
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      10-17-2011 08:12 PM #223
      Yeah, thats a Pulsed weld. I have alot more heat control. Took me awhile to get used to it, but now i love it!

    24. Member Pat @ Pitt Soundworks's Avatar
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      10-17-2011 11:51 PM #224
      Definitely not as cool as most of this stuff, but this was some of what I did on my last job.

      This is just mild steel. Usually we're working with inconel, chrome moly, and stainless.






    25. 10-18-2011 11:40 AM #225
      Quote Originally Posted by nubVR View Post
      Yeah, thats a Pulsed weld. I have alot more heat control. Took me awhile to get used to it, but now i love it!
      Question for ya on the pulse.

      I only played with scrap with it and on any production work I turn it off becasue i am not confidant in my setup skills/knowhow with using it. I haven't turned it down in hz to try to get consistent walking welds. I turned it up and tried it with AC and noticed it helped agitate the puddle and seemed like it cleaned it a bit more with the same EN setting i would normally use without the pulse. Speaking of which, for the aluminum master, what freq do you like with your AC? (not talking pulse here, just curious)

      When you do the pulsing, for bead consistency (I assume lower freq like 2-5 per sec) you are laying filler and just walking over it with the torch? Your are you trying to dab on the hot side of the pulse? If the later I should just give up now becasue I cant even walk and chew gum, so no way could I catch the hot pulse and dab/get out until it slopped to the cool side! lol

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