01M to 02J transmission swap on my 2001 Jetta 2.0 (AZG) silver

[MSFerrariF1]

pm'd

[nosborn94]

06A906032DS should be for a 5spd.

Just curious, if you have a vagcom, can you give me your current ECU part no? The last 2 letters should end in DT......lmk

(From MSFerrariF1 in pm)

[nosborn94]

I used the vag com to find that the current part no for my ECM is 06A906032BQ for the automatic. Anyone know what the part number for the manaul transmission ECM is so I can put in a new computer to get rid of the check light and hook up the cruise control.

My car is a 2001 Jetta 2.0 AZG

[nosborn94]

I used the vag com to find that the current part no for my ECM is 06A906032BQ for the automatic. Anyone know what the part number for the manaul transmission ECM is so I can put in a new computer to get rid of the check light and hook up the cruise control.

My car is a 2001 Jetta 2.0 AZG

Im getting different answers from everyone. I got:

06A906018ES
and
06A906032DS

Which one is it or are neither of these correct?

[nosborn94]

Just found this post:


If you copy and past this to a word DOC will make work better, check your number this makes a big change. I don't think they will work togather, 2001 vehicle Data ---------
Cabrio C ABA 2.0L LEV 037906018C+E 06A906461 A

New Beetle P ALH 1.9L TDI Tier 1 038906012N 06A906461
New Beetle P ALH 1.9L TDI Tier 1 038906012CR 06A906461
New Beetle S AEG 2.0L Tier 1 06A906018EQ+ER 06A906461 A
New Beetle T AEG 2.0L LEV 06A906018EN+EP 06A906461 A
New Beetle B AZG 2.0L LEV 06A906032EA+EB 06A906461 G
New Beetle K AVH 2.0L ULEV 06A906032BR+BS 06A906461 G
New Beetle C APH 1.8T TLEV 06A906032A+C 06A906461 A
New Beetle D AWV 1.8T LEV 06A906032DP+DN 06A906461 L
New Beetle D AWV 1.8T LEV 06A906032FD+EM 06A906461 L

Golf / Jetta P ALH 1.9L TDI Tier 1 038906012BD 06A906461
Golf / Jetta P ALH 1.9L TDI Tier 1 038906012CP 06A906461
Golf / Jetta S AEG 2.0L Tier 1 06A906018FA+FB 06A906461 A
Golf / Jetta T AEG 2.0L LEV 06A906018ES+ET 06A906461 A
Golf / Jetta B AZG 2.0L LEV 06A906032DS+DT 06A906461 G
Golf / Jetta K AVH 2.0L ULEV 06A906032BP+BQ 06A906461 G***
***My car is an AZG even though according to the dealer it shoud be an AVH,but doesn't matter because they are the same design***

Golf / Jetta C AWD 1.8T TLEV 06A906032CL+CM 06A906461 D
Golf / Jetta D AWW 1.8T LEV 06A906032DL+DM 06A906461 L
Golf / Jetta D AWW 1.8T LEV 06A906032GH 06A906461 L
Golf / Jetta G AFP 2.8L LEV 021906018M+Q O71906461 B
Golf / Jetta G AFP 2.8L LEV 021906018R+S O71906461 B

Passat C AUG 1.8T LEV 4B0906018BQ 06A906461 L
Passat H ATQ 2.8L LEV 3B0907551BS O78133471 E
Passat H ATQ 4 motion LEV 3B0907551BA O78133471 E

MY 2000
Cabrio C ABA 2.0L LEV 037906018A 06A906461 A

New Beetle F ALH 1.9L TDI Tier 1 038906012N 06A906461
New Beetle C AEG 2.0l Tier 1 06A906018EQ+ER 06A906461 A
New Beetle C AEG 2.0l LEV 06A906018EP+EN 06A906461 A
New Beetle D APH 1.8T TLEV 06A906032A+C 06A906461 A

Golf / Jetta F ALH 1.9L TDI Tier 1 038906012BD 06A906461
Golf / Jetta C AEG 2.0L Tier 1 06A906018FA+FB 06A906461 A
Golf / Jetta C AEG 2.0L LEV 06A906018ES+ET 06A906461 A
Golf / Jetta D AWD 1.8T TLEV 06A906032CL+CM 06A906461 D
Golf / Jetta E AFP 2.8L LEV 021906018K+M+Q O71906461 B

Passat A ATW 1.8T LEV 4B0906018BG+BH 06A906461 D
Passat D ATQ 2.8L LEV 3B0907551AN+AS O78133471 E
Passat H ATQ 4 motion LEV 3B0907551BA O78133471 E

Now I need to comfirm whether the engine is AZG or AVH? Makes me unsure looking a the part numbers? This whole time time I thought it was AZG because of the sticker I found, but the current ECM shows it would be a AVH. I'll double check. It could be that both the ...032BQ and ...032DT both work on the same model which would be great. More to choose from.


More info I found:

AEG
TIER 1/2= NO-SAI
TLEV1/2= SAI

From what I gather, NB, Golf and Jetta ECUs are all compatible, manual/auto can be used, but there was talk of recoding them to not look for the TCM, I am unsure on this.
•>> 9M-X-999 000 -> This means cars up to year 1999 with serial number 999000
9M-Y-000 001 >> -> This means from year 2000 on with serial number 000001
9M-Y-000 001 >> 9M-1-075 840 LEV -> This means from year 2000 (any serial number) up to year 2001 with serial number 075840

Jetta:

AEG 06A 906 018 BH w/o cruise control >> 9M-X-999 000 TIER 1
AEG 06A 906 018 FB w/o cruise control 9M-Y-000 001 >> TIER 1
AEG 06A 906 018 BG with cruise control >> 9M-X-999 000 TIER 1
AEG 06A 906 018 FA with cruise control 9M-Y-000 001 >> TIER 1

AEG 06A 906 018 BJ w/o cruise control >> 9M-X-999 000 LEV
AEG 06A 906 018 ET w/o cruise control 9M-Y-000 001 >> 9M-1-075 840 LEV
AEG 06A 906 018 J with cruise control >> 9M-X-999 000 LEV
AEG 06A 906 018 ES with cruise control 9M-Y-000 001 >> 9M-1-075 840 LEV

Golf:

AEG 06A 906 018 JD w/o cruise control >> 1J-X-999 999 TIER 1
AEG 06A 906 018 JM w/o cruise control 1J-Y-000 001 >> TIER 1
AEG 06A 906 018 JC with cruise control >> 1J-X-999 000 TIER 1
AEG 06A 906 018 JL with cruise control 1J-Y-000 001 >> TIER 1

AEG 06A 906 018 JB w/o cruise control >> 1J-X-999 000 LEV
AEG 06A 906 018 JK w/o cruise control 1J-Y-000 001 >> 9M-1-075 840 LEV
AEG 06A 906 018 JA with cruise control >> 1J-X-999 000 LEV
AEG 06A 906 018 JJ with cruise control 1J-Y-000 001 >> 9M-1-075 840 LEV

Beetle:

AEG 06A 906 018 AB with cruise control >> 1C-W-499 000 TIER 1
AEG 06A 906 018 AE w/o cruise control 1C-X-400 001 >> 1C-X-499 000 TIER 1
AEG 06A 906 018 ER w/o cruise control 1C-Y-400 001 >> TIER 1
AEG 06A 906 018 P with cruise control >> 1C-X-499 000 TIER 1
AEG 06A 906 018 EQ with cruise control 1C-Y-400 001 >> TIER 1

AEG 06A 906 018 CQ w/o cruise control >> 1C-X-499 000 LEV
AEG 06A 906 018 EP w/o cruise control 1C-Y-400 001 >> LEV
AEG 06A 906 018 CR with cruise control >> 1C-X-499 000 LEV
AEG 06A 906 018 EN with cruise control 1C-Y-400 001 >> LEV

The others Not much info is given on cruise control and SAI options, feel free to contribute your own numbers and your options, however I do think that ALL 2.0s after AEG had SAI standard.
•AZG 06A 906 032 DS 9M-1-075-841 >> (manual)
AZG 06A 906 032 DT 9M-1-075-841 >> (automatic)

AZG 06A 906 032 FN >> 9M-2-999-000 (manual)
AZG 06A 906 032 FP >> 9M-2-999-000 (automatic)

AVH 06A 906 032 BP 9M-1-028-293 >> (manual)
AVH 06A 906 032 BQ 9M-1-028-293 >> (automatic)

AVH 06A 906 032 FQ >> 9M-2-999-000 (manual)
AVH 06A 906 032 FR >> 9M-2-999-000 (automatic)

AVH 06A 906 032 MC 9M-3-000-001 >> 9M-3-999-000 (manual)
AVH 06A 906 032 MD 9M-3-000-001 >> 9M-3-999-000 (automatic)

BEV 06A 906 032 MT 9M-4-000-001 >> (manual)
BEV 06A 906 032 NA 9M-4-000-001 >> (automatic)

BBW 06A 906 032 PE 9M-4-000-001 >> (manual)
BBW 06A 906 032 PD 9M-4-000-001 >> (automatic)

[helmy]

I was just looking through the Bentley in the coding section and saw that it not possible to recode the ECM to recognize my car as a manual because it is an AZG engine. Originally Posted by ihavenoideax2

could you check the same about the 2.0 APK engine please?
please i need this info please, please, please

[nosborn94]

could you check the same about the 2.0 APK engine please?
please i need this info please, please, please

I dont have the manual now because I took it out from the library but I remember that the only engines you cant recode are the AZG and AVH which I believe were in the years 2001 and 2002. I know for sure you can recode the AEG. What year is your APK 2.0?

[swozniak4201]

hey my name is steve. im in the middle of the same swap only mine is a 2001 jetta vr6. i was fortunate to get a complete donor car for the swap so i have ecu gauges axles key all the stuff i need. so i have been studying the bentley wiring diagrams, and your post is encouraging because am on the same track you were. any helpful hints? one thing i noticed about the diagrams were where for the manual specified wire diameter is 2.5, while for the same wiring for the AUTO the specified wire size is 1.0mm. did you run into any issues with this? i wouldnt mind just running new wires but i noticed the are tracers runnin between said wires to other wires. and the bentley lists these as "current carrying" refer to bentley page number 97-285 example on this page is A41 inside the circle top right of diagram. i might just be blowin steam but anyway yeah, just wanted to touch bases with you because i know no one who i can ask for help on this, nor anyone who can read wiring diagrams and two minds are better than one. again, badass thread.
steve

[slrrls]

I have the parts to swap into either of two jetta's, a 2001 or a 2003. Both have the automatic 4 speed.
It turns out that I have the Dual mass flywheel which is a I understand it the stock flywheel.
My question is did I buy the right clutch and pressure plate kit?
I have done the install yet.
the part number for the clutch pak kit I have is by sach's part number i K70249-01
I bought this at O-O-O O-Riley's.
After reading this 2.0 thread and the problems you had with another Sach's kit then I figure I should check out my kit before the install.
So.... Any one know from experience if I have the right kit for the stock dual mass flywheel in the 2001 or 2003 TDI?

[nosborn94]

hey my name is steve. im in the middle of the same swap only mine is a 2001 jetta vr6. i was fortunate to get a complete donor car for the swap so i have ecu gauges axles key all the stuff i need. so i have been studying the bentley wiring diagrams, and your post is encouraging because am on the same track you were. any helpful hints? one thing i noticed about the diagrams were where for the manual specified wire diameter is 2.5, while for the same wiring for the AUTO the specified wire size is 1.0mm. did you run into any issues with this? i wouldnt mind just running new wires but i noticed the are tracers runnin between said wires to other wires. and the bentley lists these as "current carrying" refer to bentley page number 97-285 example on this page is A41 inside the circle top right of diagram. i might just be blowin steam but anyway yeah, just wanted to touch bases with you because i know no one who i can ask for help on this, nor anyone who can read wiring diagrams and two minds are better than one. again, badass thread.
steve

I did not have any issues with wire diameter. I don't believe you should have any issues. Just remember to double check the color of wire that you look for. Be sure you match the year, model and engine type because the wire colors are different each year. So the pics I eventually put up when I find time may not match what you have. Do resistance test to confirm the origin of the wires from ECM to PNP (Park Nuetral Relay) or PNP to Transmission Switch on the tranny because there may be some wires that have the same color.

[nosborn94]

I have the parts to swap into either of two jetta's, a 2001 or a 2003. Both have the automatic 4 speed.
It turns out that I have the Dual mass flywheel which is a I understand it the stock flywheel.
My question is did I buy the right clutch and pressure plate kit?
I have done the install yet.
the part number for the clutch pak kit I have is by sach's part number i K70249-01
I bought this at O-O-O O-Riley's.
After reading this 2.0 thread and the problems you had with another Sach's kit then I figure I should check out my kit before the install.
So.... Any one know from experience if I have the right kit for the stock dual mass flywheel in the 2001 or 2003 TDI?

After my experience I wouldn't go with anything but the original manufacturer which is LUK. The Sachs kit you got is a different model so it may just work fine. But I recommend using like parts and you're about put a Sachs clutch kit onto a LUK flywheel. I recomend replacing the hydraulics (master,line, and slave). I didn't at first after people told me I should. i was trying to save money, but ended up putting new ones after they failed and leaked.

The fact is I may have not tightened down the PP (pressure plate) bolts tight enough. The next time round I tapped the PP bolt holes and put thread locker on them to ensure that wouldn't be an issue. I tapped the bolts holes for the flywheel bolts as well since one of them started going in at an angle.

[nosborn94]

I have one more thing to do. Put in another ECM. I've narrowed down the part numbers to either 06A 906 032 BP
06A 906 032 DS

I have 06A 906 032 FQ from the donor car since it came with the parts as a package deal. My car originally has 06A 906 032 BQ which is the opposite of 06A 906 032 BP so me thinks BP is the one, but my car has an AZG engine code when AVH calls for the BP and according to the table DS is the right one for AZG. Which part number is for my car or do both work fine? Anyone have a similar setup?
I also wonder if the ECM I have (06A 906 032 FQ), will just fine. If I try it, will it hurt anything?

The other thing is I don't know how defeat the immobilizer. I don't want to have to go to the dealer. Anybody have any thoughts?

[CoolAirVw]

You can drive the car with the ECM you have. I dont know whether you other ECM's will work or not.

Defeating the immobilizer may be an issue. If you have the whole car you can use vag-tacho to get the 4 digit code out of it, but if you put a new ecm into your car I'm not sure vag-tcacho will work because it gets the code out of the instrament cluster. This is something your gonna have to just try and work through.

my suggestion....

Drive it with your ecm as you work the bugs out.
Try to recode to manual trans (even though most have said your car isn't recodable).
Try vag-tacho on whole donor car if possible to get the code. If not possible install the ecm on your car and try with vag-tacho.

If this stuff dont work then your probably gonna have to go to dealer or send your ECM to a tuner for a immobilizer delete.

[nosborn94]

You can drive the car with the ECM you have. I dont know whether you other ECM's will work or not.

Defeating the immobilizer may be an issue. If you have the whole car you can use vag-tacho to get the 4 digit code out of it, but if you put a new ecm into your car I'm not sure vag-tcacho will work because it gets the code out of the instrament cluster. This is something your gonna have to just try and work through.

my suggestion....

Drive it with your ecm as you work the bugs out.
Try to recode to manual trans (even though most have said your car isn't recodable).
Try vag-tacho on whole donor car if possible to get the code. If not possible install the ecm on your car and try with vag-tacho.

If this stuff dont work then your probably gonna have to go to dealer or send your ECM to a tuner for a immobilizer delete.

According to the Ross Tech, Immo II does not require the SKC pin and a simple procedure with the VAG COM is done. It doesn't require a Vag tacho or a trip to the dealer. It looks like it takes like 1 minute to do as well.

I just called the VW dealer and had them look my original VIN to determine the ECU part number and he said its supposed to 06A 906 032 BQ which according to the tables shouldn't be. He also was able to tell me that manual version would be the 06A 906 032 BP.

Im going to order the ...032 BP which I found online and try it out. Pray for me. Hope it works and then I can finally finish this thing before SMOG check comes up in June.

ROSS TECH PROCEDURE (Looks easy)

Immobilizer II ECU Swapping

Ross-Tech is not responsible for any damage or problems that may result from following these instructions. They are to be used at your own risk. As always, you should refer to a Factory Repair Manual for your vehicle!
ECM Matching Prerequisites:

Battery voltage at least 12.5 V.

Immobilizer II ECM
[Select]
[17 - Instruments]
[Adaption - 10]
Leave channel at "00"
[Read]
[Save]
[Done, Go Back]
[Close Controller, Go Back - 06]
[Exit]
Turn ignition OFF for 15 seconds. Start vehicle.

Notes:
For cars with a separate Immobilizer (Includes 2000+ EuroVan, Cabrio, and many older non-US models), use [25 Immobilizer] instead of [17 - Instruments]. The rest of the procedure is the same.
On some Euro Audi models with Immobilizer 2, the PIN/SKC will be required.


Activating Cruise Control on a new ECU (DBW)

DBW (Drive-by-Wire) Factory fresh ECU's often come with cruise control de-activated.

[Select]
[01 - Engine]
[Login - 11]
Enter 11463 to activate cruise control
[Do It!]

[bobbruce0584]

Hi,
I am starting a swap in an 01 Jetta 2.0 engine code AZG. While I see the post on the electrical differences, I am not quite sure I understand what needs to be done. Are the electrical steps posted somewhere that explan what needs to be done?

Thanks for the great info.

Bob

[nosborn94]

Hi,
I am starting a swap in an 01 Jetta 2.0 engine code AZG. While I see the post on the electrical differences, I am not quite sure I understand what needs to be done. Are the electrical steps posted somewhere that explan what needs to be done?

Thanks for the great info.

Bob

I haven't posted the steps I used yet but you can use this thread for some reference. The wiring process is the same but where you plug them into the ECM will differ depending on the year and model. Yours will have the same pins numbers as mine

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=151516

[southwesterly]

can something similar to this be done to recode for a manual transmission?

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...ldown-w-keyfob

[CoolAirVw]

can something similar to this be done to recode for a manual transmission?

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...ldown-w-keyfob

Tdi computers can be recoded manual to auto and vice-versa. But from what I've read, 2.0L and 1.8T cannot.

[swozniak4201]

ok i swapped my jetta vr6 like you did. what i found out about the computer and stuff was that although reading was intimidation, when i got the stuff and did it it was very easy, i didnt even need a vag com. all i used was the vag tacho off ebay for like 25 bucks. i just put the new computer and gauges in, and programmed the key using the 4 digit code. worked like a champ. you may need it to adapt your throttle sensor. Passed emissions here in texas the next day.

One odd bit...when i shifted the rpm's seemed to jump? strange. but it went away with the computer swap. let me know what you find.

[nosborn94]

With the help of Jose06GLI and his full version of Ross Tech, here in San Diego, I was able to follow the simple procedures outlined before in this thread and vuala it's working good now.

So I first found the right ECM part number form the dealer (06A 906 032 BP) and then with the Ross Tech program adapted the ECM to the immobilizer. Don't need the SKC/Pin key for this. It took 1 minute. Very quick. I turned the engine on and it stumbled but I figured the computer was learning. I turned it off and then back on and sure enough it was running smoothly.

As advised by many and Ross Tech, I also did the throttle body adaptation, which they say to do when putting in a different ECM.

And best of all!!! NO CHECK ENGINE LIGHT!!!

And next in order, and last but not least, cruise control cut off switch for the clutch pedal.

(Again, I am currently working on a write up with pics. It will be done soon)

[evilpat]

Tdi computers can be recoded manual to auto and vice-versa. But from what I've read, 2.0L and 1.8T cannot.

They flash is the limitation with 1.8t and 2.0L ECUs. Reflash the auto ECU with a manual file for that same year and then you can recode with VAG-COM to eliminate the code for the missing TCU.

[swozniak4201]

congrats!! your gonna love the new inspection sticker!

[nosborn94]

I just wired the cruise control today according to my diagram, I wrote up. Unfortunately the cruise control was not working like I expected it to. I even logged in the ECM and reactivated the cruise control since after swapping an ECM its often not on, but still no go.

I wired the blue Clutch Vacuum vent Valve Switch to pin 39 on the ECM with an old grey/red TCM wire, and checked the continuity and voltage, but still no cruise control.

No the thing is before I put in the new ECM the cruise control was working on the original Auto ECM, but without the clutch pedal wired in. As soon as I put the new ECM in the cruise control was not working and still doesn't.

The other thing is when I looked for pin 39, there was another wire going into it. It was a white/red wire. I cut it halfway and spliced the grey/red wire to it. I was not expecting a white/red there, but then again according to Bentley wiring daigram there should be a white/red wire on Auto and Manual (realized that after a second look) but it doesn't continue on the auto and seems to lead to T-10w connecter in plenum chamber (don't know where there this is) and end.

Bentley Wiring for Clutch Vacuum Vent Valve Switch to pin 39


Wiring on my Jetta Before


Wiring on my Jetta after

[swozniak4201]

you show that your clutch pedal cruise borrows power from the old reverse light 12v under the dash. in the bentely it shows it being wired in series with the blue/black on the brake pedal switch. i noticed if i did not have my brake pedal switch connected, the cruise would not work. EVEN THOUGH THE CRUISE WIRE HAD 12V SINCE IT WAS CONNECTED BEFORE THE PLUG. some thoughts for you. and yeah that white red from your ecu ends at the plenumn connectors.

* The auto ecu does not even look for a signal at pin 39, the only reason it was working is because it was counting on the interrupt signal from the brake pedal sensor*
* LOOK where the clutch switch connects in series with the brake pedal switch on **A20** to
T10a6and uses 12v from there. peel back some insulation on your blue/black brake pedal switch wire and use that. i bet it works. let me know***

[nosborn94]

you show that your clutch pedal cruise borrows power from the old reverse light 12v under the dash. in the bentely it shows it being wired in series with the blue/black on the brake pedal switch. i noticed if i did not have my brake pedal switch connected, the cruise would not work. EVEN THOUGH THE CRUISE WIRE HAD 12V SINCE IT WAS CONNECTED BEFORE THE PLUG. some thoughts for you. and yeah that white red from your ecu ends at the plenumn connectors.

* The auto ecu does not even look for a signal at pin 39, the only reason it was working is because it was counting on the interrupt signal from the brake pedal sensor*
* LOOK where the clutch switch connects in series with the brake pedal switch on **A20** to
T10a6and uses 12v from there. peel back some insulation on your blue/black brake pedal switch wire and use that. i bet it works. let me know***

Thank you. I will try this ASAP. After looking at alphaseinor's write on TDICLUB, I notice somewhere he mentioned this. Thank you. Hopefully I'll have this going by next weeks trip home to the Bay Area

[nosborn94]

The cruise control is now working great. Thanks to swozniak4201's advice by splicing the brake light switch 12V wire (blue/black) to the Clutch Vacuum Vent Valve, I got the cruise control running.

Works great now and the write up and pics are coming soon.

[nosborn94]

Finally I start posting pics and a walkthrough(8 months later). Got a little time on my hands since I have Family Leave.

If your considering this, please not only read all the details in this write up but do some research and have the Bentley manual handy. Read up on the procedures in the manual. That’s where I got the majority of my info. I mainly used the Vwvortex, TDIclub, and others for ideas. I actually have been using the copy of Bentley from my local library. I just keep renewing it. I think I’m the only one who has checked it out in the last 2 years.

Lastly, I am not a professional so undertake this project at your own risk. I was successful with some setbacks, but as all of us DIY’s know mistakes can happen. In the end, it all worked out. And I’m sure there are better ways of doing this so please let me know if there should be any changes. I’d be happy to add it in. There isn’t just one way to get this done and we all may not have the same resources.

I'll start with the prep work I did the day before to get ready for the major work. Make sure you have a good 13 mm socket, because many bolts and nuts are this size. My was darn near warn by the end of this project. Good thing I have Craftsman so I got a new one for free. Another note for those of you that think I’m crazy. Yes, I did this without power or air tools. So it can be done.

Day 1

1. I lubed up the shifter with lithium grease.

I also lubed up the point where the shifter cables attached to the transmission. This was recommended by the Bentley manual

2. I then moved onto the transmission itself:
I replaced the pivot nut which the clutch fork pivots against and put a little moly grease on it per Bentley


3. I placed the clutch fork securing clip on the pivot nut.


4. And then goes on the new clutch fork. Make sure the clip comes through the hole in the clutch fork to ensure its secure.


5. As instructed by Bentley I put a stop against the clutch fork by screwing in a bolt that was M10x40mmx1.5. This prevents the slave from becoming damaged when torque down the transmission mating bolts.

6. Lightly tighten bolt


7. This is clutch pedal assembly with the over center spring removed. The seat (white) where the over center spring sits was broken and I put the new one in.


8. Next I packed the CV joints on the manual axles with fresh CV Joint Moly Grease and then wrapped it with a plastic Ziploc bag and rubber band to keep dirt from getting in.





9. I then prepared the car to be worked in the next day. Make sure to disconnect the negative battery cable before starting so as not to trigger any air bags or short any circuits.

10. BEFORE LIFTING CAR, LOOSEN THE AXLE NUTS!!!!! YOU WILL NOT BE ABLE TO LOOSEN IF CAR IS OFF GROUND. A 30mm 12 pt socket is needed and a breaker or something larger because these are not easy to get


11. First I put in jacks as high it could go with my small jack

Then I focused on removed the front end body parts to clear for working space
I started with the grill. The latch to open the hood is clip by two metal prongs. Pry them off with a flat head


12. Once you have latch detached, just the grill off. It snaps back into place


13. Then remove the driver’s side wheel well cover



14. Then I removed the whole bumper. It’s not necessary but it does give you a little more room to work with (I recommend it; every inch counts when getting the auto tranny out)

Remove the 6 bolts securing the bumper in the front (4 on top and 2 behind the left and right grills)

4 on top


Remove the small left and right side grill and there’s one bolt underneath each one (2 total)


15. Remove the bottom front end of the passenger side wheel well that attaches to the bumper


16. Before you pull the bumper off the left and right turn signal light bulbs need to be removed. They pop out.


17. You should then be able to slide the bumper off


18. Then remove the transmission drivers side dust cover with a flat head by prying off the washers which can be reused



Once off the transmission oil cover is exposed



That concluded my pre-work for the day and then I continued the next day



Day 2

I apologize if I am missing any steps and pictures. I didn’t post all this when it was fresh in my head, but if you any questions feel free to ask.

REMOVING PARTS ON AND AROUND AUTO TRANNY

19. I removed the air intake and battery tray. And then all the electrical connecters from the Auto tranny.

You need to remove these conneceters: transmission Range switch, vehicle speed sensor (can used on manual tranny), valvebody connecter, and some other connecter with yellow, white, black wires. Hang these out of the way with zip ties or string.


20. Drain the ATF to lighten the load and prevent a mess.

21. Remove these hoses from the tranny oil cooler and have some rags or thick paper towel to catch some of the coolant that will spill. (no need to drain fluid unless you want to put new fluid in your system). Couple the hoses with a coupler you can find at the auto part store.

Couple the hoses with a coupler you can find at the auto part store.

I also removed the cooler. Use an allen wrench to take off the banjo bolts and lift it off. Remove all that you can to free up space, because taking out the auto tranny is hardest step.


22. Unbolt the power steering line from the top of the tranny and the side. (pic shows bolt on side)

Unbolt the banjo bolt from the power steering pump and allow the fluid to drain. Then removed the bolt from the rack and pinion and plug the holes with a clean towel to prevent dirt from entering.

23. Remove the starter next. Remove the electrical conncecters of the starter. There’s a hidden nut and bolt underneath the connecter on top. You’ll need an 13mm socket with an extension to remove it. Unbolt the long starter/tranny mating mating bolts and the power steering line bracket. Remove the starter. It should slide out easily. (Remember that it can’t be reused on the manual)


24. Remove the shift cable (yellow) by unbolting the bracket on top of the tranny. Pop the shift selector off here (red).


25. Bentley says Mark the ball joint/control arm bracket with paint or white out then unbolt the 3 bolts in order to remove the CV axles and free up room for tranny removal, but I was able to remove them both without doing this step. However it may make things easier from what I’ve heard on other threads.

26. Unbolt the CV axle bolts (6 on each side). You’ll need a 12 pt torx bit. I found them at just about every auto part store (Pep Boys, AZ, Oreilly, etc). You attach a ½ in socket to the end of it or your impact gun

I had my friend step on the brake off and on while turning the axle and loosening each bolt.

Once the bolts are loosened slide the axles out of the hubs and remove (not interchangeable).

27. Remove the Dog Bone mount. There are 4 bolts here (2 on the chassis and 2 on the tranny). Unbolt them all and remove the mount. These are strectch bolts and need to be replaced.

Dog Bone Mount removed


SUPPORT ENGINE AND TRANNY REMOVAL

28. Place engine support over motor.


Attach engine support on these mounts with chains and tighten chains with hanger bolts til engine is firmly supported.


29. Remove the 3 nuts securing the torque converter to the driveplate. You can access them by removing the rubber plug (green arrow) on the right side of the differential and turning the crankshaft til each one is in sight to remove.


30. You can now loosen the tranny frame mount bolts (2 on top). These are under lots torque (will require breaker bar, large socket wrench, or impact).

Now remove the 3 bolts holding transmission mount onto the tranny from the top.
Tranny-to-Engine mating bolts:
There a total of 8. 2 were already removed when removing the starter. Now there’s 3 16mm bolts, and 1 18mm bolt on the bottom and 2 18mm bolts on top.
Start with the top 2 bolts. Remove the combo bolt (red) nut and affix the ground wire somewhere out the way. Then the other one (yellow)

I used a jack with a tranny adapter so I removed the middle 16mm bolt (red)on the bottom since it would have been hard to get to otherwise.
Angle the engine/tranny down another few inches to make room for removal.
Then I removed the others (green) once the tranny jack was supporting the tranny.

Don’t forget the 18mm mating bolt of the right side of the differential too.

Tranny Supported


Next is by far the hardest part of the job.
31. Slide the tranny back as the input shaft comes out, being careful to make sure its supported by the jack. Once the shaft is clear of the engine angle the driver side of the tranny towards the back of the car and lower. Now it was a whole lot messier than I just describe. My friend and I kept working the tranny around until it finally fell out of there.
One thing I did do was take my breaker bar and prop it up against the engine to push the engine/tranny more towards the front of the car. The more you can do this (get creative and find your own way) the easier the removal will be. Some people, I read, kick the engine forward while allowing the tranny drop out.



32. Eventually I moved the tranny jack out of the way, since there wasn’t enough clearance for it to come all the way down. We wrapped the tranny with a tie down and lowered it slowly.
The beast removed.



SHIFTER AND SHIFT CABLES:

34. Remove the exhaust pipe from manifold to right after the cat and O2 sensor. There’s brace there. Loosen it.
Now remove the 4 bolts holding the pipe to the manifold.

Pull the pipe out.

Above, the bottom of the shifter box is exposed (yellow). It has 2 bolts or nuts (I forget) on the bottom. You can remove these.


35. Remove the star torx screws on each side of the foot well area.

Pop theshift knob off by pushing the button in and pulling the chrome sleeve down from the knob and then pull off.

Pop out the cigarette tray and remove this (green) screw.

Pop out rest of tray.

Unclip this metal bracket before taking center console out.

Pull out the console panel and pop off chrome cover.


Take off these plastic pieces. Just pop/pry them off.


Pry out this pin (red) by putting shifter in Park and pulling out with needle nose. Pinch these clips (green) with needle nose and pull shift lock cable out of shifter.

Another view with needle nose. Remove these two bolts (green) and pull the shifter out from underneath the car along with the cables.


36. Take the manual shifter and bolt it up to the frame. It bolts in the same 4 spots as the auto shifter.

Pass the shift cables through the passage above the exhaust pipe and let them hang.

Replace the center console panel. Remove the plastic bracket that was around the old shifter in the console. Use the plastic bracket from the stick shifter and it pops in place.

37. Replace the exhaust pipe and use the new gasket for the manifold to pipe.

38. To completely remove the shift lock cable you must remove the steering wheel.
To remove the airbag you stick a flat head screw driver in the hole behind the wheel and pop off the fastener inside (refer to Bentley). Pic with airbag removed.
Remove center bolt with 12 pt socket.

Don’t worry about marking the spot. There are stamped marks for realigning the wheel.

Pic of wheel after removal and hole (green) where you stick in screw driver.

Remove this panel to access ignition shift lock cable.

Here’s the cable

Put the car key into the ignition and turn all the way, pull out the clip holding the cable in place and pull out cable. Now you can weave the cable out.

When replacing the bolt use lock tite. The airbag pops back in place and don’t forget the electrical connecter for the airbag!

CLUTCH PEDAL AND CLUTCH HYDRAULIC LINE:

39. Remove the paneling under the steering wheel and the relays panels are exposed. Remove the relay panel bracket and place out of the way.

40. Pull this cut out off of the fire wall (this is why this swap works so well; no mods needed). Remove the rubber plug on the opposite engine compartment side.

You notice 3 unused black studs sticking out from the fire wall. This where you’ll mount the clutch pedal assembly.

Take your clutch pedal assembly and mount it on the studs. It tightens down with 3 13mm nuts.

41. Then affix the master cylinder to fluid reservoir tube on the engine side to the master cylinder. Place a pinching clamp on the tube to keep fluid from leaking all over once it’s attached.
Quickly cut off the nipple on the fluid reservoir and then attach the tube.
Nippled before cut.

After tube is attached

You can attach the hydraulic line now since space is limited when the tranny is in and hang it out of the way.
42. Attach the Blue and White Clutch Pedal switches to the assembly if not already.


BACK TO TRANNY:
43. Remove the driveplate (6 bolts). Remove the old dust tin (green) and place the manual one over the studs. I had to buy a new access cover (at right side of pic). Don’t forget to attach. I recommend tapping the flywheel/driveplate bolt holes. When I put the flywheel back on the second time around, the bolt started to go in at an angle. I tapped it and then it went in smoothly

Now push flywheel onto crankshaft nub. The bolt orientation only goes on one way so no need to mark. In the pic, I hadn’t had the flywheel resurfaced (as you can see the burn marks), but after messing up the first time on this project, I did get it resurfaced. I and pretty much every mechanic highly recommend doing so.

I tightened the flywheel without a special by buying carburetor shims attaching them to bolts like this. (picture is of my Explorer)

Now, place the clutch disc with the alignment tool. Tighten down the pressure plate with new PP bolts and use Loc-Tite. Tighten the bolts in star pattern, a little bit at a time so that you don’t bend the plate as you tighten. Once tight, take out alignment tool.

Setup your tranny and ready it to go in. My buddy and I used a tied down to hoist the tranny up. Worked great to take the weight off so we could align it. Work it around until the input shaft full sits and the body of the engine and tranny fully mated.



44. Once tranny is on, hand tighten all mating bolts and then secure with torque wrench to finish. Attach the side mount with the 3 large side mounting stretch bolts (green) and also attach the black support bar that attaches to the mount/

Raise the engine/tranny up with the engine support or jack and up to the driver side mount. Secure it with the 2 stretch bolts on top. Make sure the mounts are lined up straight unlike this picture. I had to replace the bolts and realigned it again later.


45. Attach the Dog Bone mount and tighten down with new stretch bolts (recommended replacement by Bentley)


46. Slide the axle into the knuckle and loosely tighten your new axle nuts. Tighten the CV axle-to-differential bolts (the bolts are different from the automatic).


47. Attach the new hydraulic line and secure with clip in slave cylinder and now remove the hose clamp on the other hose.
48. Screw off the speed sensor cap from the auto tranny and screw it onto the manual speed sensor. Then drape the protective fire shield over it.
Speed Sensor Cap

Attached


49. Secure shift cable bracket on top of tranny with 3 bolts.
50. Secure shifter cable ends onto slider with new clips.
51. Remove the bolt securing the clutch fork.

52. Bolt in manual version power steering line (goes underneath tranny instead of above) with banjo bolts. Attach to bracket on starter and underneath tranny.
53. Reattach wiring cluster to starter and ground strap onto the combo mating bolt.


FLUIDS:
54. Use a 17mm allen socket to open the fill plug. Use a hose (got clear tube from Home Depot) with a funnel and pour in fresh 75W-90 Synthetic Gear Oil (Mobil 1).


55. I refilled power steering system with VW power steering fluid. Once car was started, I turned the wheels to extreme many times to expel air and kept topping off until there were no more air bubbles.
56. Bleed the clutch as you would the brakes. MAKE SURE THE BOLT USED TO SECURE THE CLUTCH FORK IS REMOVED!!! The pressure release is on the slave cylinder. Add DOT 4 fluid only in the reservoir constantly to make sure the level does not get to low. Check for leaks. I had some and ended up having to buy all new hydraulic parts (master, clutch line, slave). Many recommend buying all new hydraulic parts anyways.

LOWER CAR:

57. Replace all the exterior paneling, bumper, and grilles.
58. Put tires back on and lower car to ground.
59. Tighten the axle nuts with a breaker bar and large torque wrench according to the procedure:

Front axle nuts (follow step by step)
Vehicles with 12-point nut
200 Nm (148 ft-lb) then loosen 1/2 turn
Turn hub 180 degrees
50 Nm (37 ft-lb) + 60 degree

Vehicles with hex bolt
250 Nm (185 ft-lb) + 90 degrees
Loosen 1/2 turn.
Turn hub 180 degrees
250 Nm (185 ft-lb) + 90 degrees

60. Shifter adjustment:
a. Pull and twist the cable shifter end spring so it’s compressed into place
Spring decompressed

Spring Compressed

b. Place a 5mm pin into these holes (red arrows) to line up the shifter for adjustment.

c. Lock the L shaped Locking mechanism by pushing shift counter weight down and turning the L downward.

d. Release the shifter cable ends and then remove the drill bit. Release the L lock by turning back into the upright position and your done.
Note: If your “L” lock is busted you’ll need to play with the adjustment and hold down shift weight while releasing cable ends.
Here’s a great video on this:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tp9gg...layer_embedded

[nosborn94]

ELECTRICAL (The fun part):

Now please do not start cutting the wires in your MK4 until you have carefully looked over wiring diagrams and understood them. Don’t be fooled by my layouts. I researched for 3 months in my spare time for this project. You don’t want send 12 volts to somewhere it doesn’t belong and end up spending another $200 on computers or relays or not mention the hours spent trying to find what you shorted.

Also every year is different and may or will have not only different color wire but different pins or places they attached to. PM me and I might be able to help you. Now if your car is a 2001 Jetta 2.0 with a AZG or AVH engine code then you can follow this but otherwise you’ll need to look up the wiring charts.

Also if you’re in a hurry to get the started and want to work on the cruise control and ECM swap later you can skip steps that are related to that and do them at a later time. I actually waited seven months before I swapped the ECM since I had to have SMOG done. You’ll have a check engine light because the Auto ECM can’t find the TCM until you swap in a manual one or recode the ECM.

61. Back up Light switch
a. Find the connecter from the Transmission Range Switch. This is where you’ll find the wires for the back up light. Cut the wires off the connecter. Your only going to use 2 wires here.
b. Take your connecter salvaged from the donor
c. Splice the Green/black and the blue/yellow wire to the 2 wires on the connecter.

d. Connect this to the transmission reverse light switch. Your done here.

62. Put Back Intake and battery tray
63. PNP Relay (175) to Starting Interlock Relay (53), Reverse lights and Clutch Pedal Starter switch, and Cruise Control switch
a. Remove the driver side dash panels underneath the steering wheel (fuse panel, 2 plastic and 1 metal)
b. Remove the plastic relay brackets by removing the 2 nuts ( green) on each side. Pull this off and remove the PNP (Park Neutral Position) relay, labeled 175, from the bracket.

c. Unclip the blue connecter and clip the wires necessary according to your diagram. On mine I clipped the blue/yellow wire, yellow/red, grey/red, and green/black wires. I also clipped the blue/black wire while leaving some length. I also clipped the orange or brown wire which is a ground.

d. Splice the wires according to your diagram.
i. Splice the blue/yellow wire from the reverse light switch with blue/black leading to the reverse lights.
ii. Splice the length of blue/black from the blue connecter with the grey/red from the white clutch pedal starter switch.
iii. Splice the other Clutch Pedal Starter Switch wire with the ground wire.


iv. Splice the grey/red wire that was connected to the blue connecter with the white/red wire from the Blue CVVV (Clutch Vacuum Vent Valve) Switch.
v. Use a quick splice and splice the blue/black wire from the green brake pedal light switch with the blue/black wire from the blue CVVV switch. (Note: my original wiring diagram was wrong. This wiring is different.And also the curise control is not crucial to getting the car started if you want to wait on this one)
Quick Splice with donor wire to attach the 2 blue/black wires

Quick Splice



e. Clip the blue connecter back in.
f. Replace the 175 relay with your 53 relay
g. Check for continuity on the wiring. The blue switch should have continuity when the pedal is up and no continuity when pushed down about 1 inch. If not, twist off the Blue switch and adjust the plunger up and down by clicking it up and down. Double check your wiring.
h. Replace the dash panels now.

Pic of the clutch pedal switches. Blue and White.


64. TCM Removal and ECM Swap with Ross Tech (Note: This part can be done later and only cars with engine code AZG and AVH need to have the ECM swapped. Others can be recoded, like AEG. Refer to VAG COM instructions at end)
a. Remove the wiper arms, plenum comer, and the cabin air filter and tray.

b. Remove TCM. Secured by 2 nuts. You have wiggle it out of there.

c. Disconnect connecter

d. Remove ECM. Secured by 2 nuts and car alarm horn, which is attached, has a connecter which needs to be removed. Remove ECM connecters.
e. Remove old auto ECM from bracket and replace with manual ECM. Wiggle back into the plenum. This may take a little finagling. Reconnect car alarm horn.
f. Wiring/Splicing time
i. On the TCM connecter find the grey/red wire (remember may be different on your year and model) that has continuity with the grey/red wire spliced onto the CVVV switch. Cut it at the TCM connecter.

ii. Peel back the insulation along the wiring loom until the grey/red wire is near the large ECM connecter.
iii. Cut the zip tie and unsnap the wire cover.

iv. Locate your wire that the CVVV switch will connect to. On my it is pin 39 on the ECM. There was a white/red wire in that place, but on my car this ends at a connecter and does not operate anything so I cut it at the red arrow. Still check your diagrams to make sure.

v. I spliced the grey/red wire here

vi. Make sure the connecting pin and slots are clear of debris. Mine had a piece of rubber in it and the cruise was not working until I remove everything again and found this in there.
vii. Wrap the exposed wire in electric tape to keep it from being exposed.

viii. Replace the plenum cover and wipers

65. Wire Removal
a. You remove the excess wiring under the hood and in the plenum, but it is not completely necessary. But make sure it won’t get in the way of the moving parts like the fans or create any grounds where 12V wires may be still be live.

66. VAG-COM Instructions (via Ross Tech)
a. Immobilizer for ECM swap (wont start with new ECM unless immobilizer is adapted)
i. [Select]
[17 - Instruments]
[Adaption - 10]
Leave channel at "00"
[Read]
[Save]
[Done, Go Back]
[Close Controller, Go Back - 06]
[Exit]
Turn ignition OFF for 15 seconds. Start vehicle.

b. Throttle Body Alignment
Turn the key on but do not start the car.
[Select]
[01 - Engine]
[Measuring Blocks - 08]
Enter Group 060
[Go!]
[Switch to basic settings]
Once you do this you will see the top right display say ADP RUN. The TB adaptation is being done as soon as you switch to basic settings. You will see the values change and hear the TB cycle for the first few seconds then it will stop. Leave it in Basic Settings for about 30 seconds.
[Switch to Meas. Blocks] button and you're all set.
Be sure not to touch the accelerator and make sure the engine is NOT running when you do this!

c. Cruise Control Activation
i. Turn the key on but do not start the car
[Select]
[01 - Engine]
[Login - 11]
Enter 11463 to activate cruise control
[Do It!]
d. Recoding ECM to manual settings.
(Note: Depends on your year and model. All I know is that AZG and AVH engine code engines from 2001-2002 years can’t be recoded. Before those years they can be recoded. After, I’m unsure)
Turn the key on but do not start the car
[Select]
[01 - Engine]
[07-Coding]
Enter 00001
[Do it!]

The Soft. Coding field should read 00001 when done.



That is it. Please reply with any suggestions to add anything.

Important Torque Specs:
Transmission-to-engine
M12X55 (3) 59 ft-lb
M12X150 (2) 59 ft-lb
M10X50 (3) 44ft-lb
2 top transmission mount bolts 74 ft-lb
Black Mount Crossbar (top of tranny) (2) 18 ft-lb
Dog Bone Mount
Rear (2) 15 ft-lb + ¼ turn
Bottom (2) 30 ft-lb + ¼ turn
Slave cylinder 18 ft-lb
CV Axle joint 30 ft-lb
CV Axle boot shield 26 ft-lb
Shift cable bracket 18 ft-lb
Selector cable bolt to transmission lever 18 ft-lb
Side Transmission Mount (3) 37 ft-lb + ¼ turn
Shift box (4) 18 ft-lb
Exhaust Pipe Collar 30 ft-lb
Manifold-to-pipe (4) 30 ft-lb

Clutch Pedal
Assembly to wall (3) 18 ft-lb
Brake to clutch bracket (2) 18 ft-lb
Inside Tranny
Ball Stud 18 ft-lb
Pressure Plate 15 ft-lb (tighten diagonally gradually)
Flywheel: 1st 22 ft-lb, 2nd 44 ft-lb, 3rd ¼ turn
Steering wheel bolt 37 ft-lb
Power Steering Line Banjo Bolts (2) 22 ft-lb





These are some other good references that will be useful:

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=151516

http://www.kansascitytdi.com/

http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q/a...l-VW-Jetta.htm

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...h-Replacement&

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread...=223085&page=8

[CoolAirVw]

Very nice documentation. You should edit your first post and put the picture documentation there.

I do have to say, I've enjoyed following your trials and tribulations on this project and I have to say nice job.

Here's my comments that I think others should do differently other than what you did.

Dont pull the bumper cover. Its totally not necessary.

Remove the exhaust prior to pulling trans, or at least disconnect it from the manifold. Because with the exhaust loose the trans will move forward and the trans comes "out" of the car much easier.

Also dont disassemble the steering column. The cable that you removed doesn't need to be removed. You can just leave it there inside the console.

[swozniak4201]

glad you got it!!! yeah brian (alpha) is the man. i help out at his shop when he calls me. we finished up a swap on a 1.8t. fought the immo for about a hour. saw a diesel so overheated it had sucked some melted plastic up in the oil pickup....ran for a week without coolant and still ran after that...albeit no oil pressure. i couldnt be happier with the swap on my VR6 anyway, hope your enjoying your 2.0. helped a guy with the a/c on one of those (2.0) last week.

[nosborn94]

Update. Car has continued to run great after swap (5,000 miles) After a wash and a wax, it looks great too.

[swozniak4201]

awesome! i have about 3500 on mine now, time for a oil change. i today myself i was gonna stay 100 stock, but i splurged on some bad*ss engine mounts, short shifter and a lighter flywheel. i must say, sure am glad i did. the shifter and mounts make it shift like a freakin dream!

[boertje]

Absolutely great write up and great pics! I just did a 5 to 6 speed swap in my bug TDI and 2 01M to 02M swaps in my golf and jetta, both TDIs. I also did a write up on the auto to 02M swap and I find that your pics are killer! Perhaps I will include some of them in mine and credit you for them if that is OK.

I did not remove any fenders myself and did not remove the interlock ignition cable. I just laid them aside to the right side of the shifter assembly with the unused wirings and zip tied them together.

Again, great job!

[nosborn94]

Absolutely great write up and great pics! I just did a 5 to 6 speed swap in my bug TDI and 2 01M to 02M swaps in my golf and jetta, both TDIs. I also did a write up on the auto to 02M swap and I find that your pics are killer! Perhaps I will include some of them in mine and credit you for them if that is OK.

I did not remove any fenders myself and did not remove the interlock ignition cable. I just laid them aside to the right side of the shifter assembly with the unused wirings and zip tied them together.

Again, great job!

Yeah. Go ahead use the pics. The shift interlock was unnecessary but I hoping to sell it for a few bucks and also I like to clean things up as much as possible. I just like to be thorough

[boertje]

Thanks!
I am on tdiclub with the same name as here.
Here is a link to what I did for the TDI on the auto to 6 speed manual swap for the Bug and MKIV.
Auto to 6 speed swap for the MKIV