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Thread: ** GruvenParts.com Has 2.8L 24V Billet Goodies !

  1. Banner Advertiser GruvenParts.com's Avatar
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    09-20-2012 08:03 AM #106
    Who would be in for a $300 machined aluminum thermo housing? If not, please post your price point.


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    09-20-2012 08:34 AM #107
    $200

    Sent from my PG86100 using Tapatalk 2

  3. Member mk3_vdub's Avatar
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    09-21-2012 09:03 PM #108
    how about a kit that comes with a crack pipe for around 300?

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    09-21-2012 09:38 PM #109
    Quote Originally Posted by mk3_vdub View Post
    how about a kit that comes with a crack pipe for around 300?


    Sent from my PG86100 using Tapatalk 2

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    09-27-2012 02:53 PM #110
    OK guys, thanks for input. We are evaluating.

    Are there any others who want to provide input ?


    www.GruvenParts.com

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    10-09-2012 09:30 AM #111


    24V Billet VR6 Drive Belt Pulleys - All 24V VR6

    GruvenParts.com offers a complete set of ultra sleek lightweight 24V VR6 power pulleys. These include lightweight billet crank, power steering, water pump, tensioner, and alternator pulleys for your 24V VR6 engine. These pulleys are precision CNC'd from aircraft grade billet aluminum and reduce the rotating mass by a whopping 8.5 lbs! All pulleys ARE NORMAL DRIVE (NOT UNDER-DRIVE). These pulleys will not change the speed of the supercharger and will not void any supercharger warranties.

    Buy them as a set and save!

    These pulleys replace the following OEM part numbers :

    Crank Pulley : 022-105-243A (022105243A)
    Tensioner Pulley: 022-145-299D (022145299D)
    Water Pump Pulley: 021-121-031A (021121031A)
    Alternator Pulley: 022-903-119A (022903119A) and 038-903-119B (038903119B)
    Power Steering Pulley : 038-145-255A (038145255A)

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    10-09-2012 04:56 PM #112
    Quote Originally Posted by GruvenParts.com View Post
    Who would be in for a $300 machined aluminum thermo housing? If not, please post your price point.

    Why not come up with some molds and have them cast in aluminum or even iron.... for $50-100 respectively? Once the molds are repeatable, cost of production would go way down and make it affordable for anyone on nearly any budget. This method would require minimal machining, dramatically dropping production costs and pass that savings on to the consumers.

    I don't understand the hype of CNC and why it is sooooooooooooooo overpriced, sure the machinery and initial set-up have high costs, but after that the cost of production go down tremendously. Aluminum is a soft material, so machining doesn't cause much wear and tear on equipment, so where does the markup come from?

    Also, this is not a high tolerance critical part and the surface finish has no requirement to be fully smooth except for the few mating surfaces.
    Last edited by MachtSchnell; 10-09-2012 at 04:58 PM.
    Get on the LOUD pedal!

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    10-09-2012 10:28 PM #113
    I would be very interested but 300 would be too much for me. I would hop all over it for 200 or even 250 w pipe

  9. Member 24vGTiVR6's Avatar
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    10-12-2012 11:00 PM #114
    yeah I'd love to have one of these thermo housings within 3 weeks to join all my other gruvenparts goodies....... $300 is a tad much I agree, although I have little to no knowledge of CNC.


  10. Member mk3_vdub's Avatar
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    10-13-2012 08:55 PM #115
    so I did a billet crack pipe/Tstat housing/ water pump job today on a customers car, and let me just say, the crack pipe was a huge pita to get in the block. even with all my weight on it still wouldn't pop in.

    small tip that worked great for doing the install, if you are doing a water pump at the same time.

    I used a ratchet strap threaded through the pipe out the end of the block. tied around a small block of wood. used that to pull the crack pipe on instead of attempting to push it on. worked MUCH better

  11. Member 24vGTiVR6's Avatar
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    10-14-2012 02:47 AM #116
    Quote Originally Posted by mk3_vdub View Post
    so I did a billet crack pipe/Tstat housing/ water pump job today on a customers car, and let me just say, the crack pipe was a huge pita to get in the block. even with all my weight on it still wouldn't pop in.

    small tip that worked great for doing the install, if you are doing a water pump at the same time.

    I used a ratchet strap threaded through the pipe out the end of the block. tied around a small block of wood. used that to pull the crack pipe on instead of attempting to push it on. worked MUCH better
    really? mine slipped right in by hand? ......... twice?

    not saying it's something you did mind you..... it's just that I've never had a problem with the 24v crack pipe.... so it was kinda odd reading that you had to do all that

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    10-14-2012 10:14 PM #117
    Quote Originally Posted by mk3_vdub View Post
    so I did a billet crack pipe/Tstat housing/ water pump job today on a customers car, and let me just say, the crack pipe was a huge pita to get in the block. even with all my weight on it still wouldn't pop in.

    small tip that worked great for doing the install, if you are doing a water pump at the same time.

    I used a ratchet strap threaded through the pipe out the end of the block. tied around a small block of wood. used that to pull the crack pipe on instead of attempting to push it on. worked MUCH better
    i used a rubber mallet to tap it in. much easier.

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    10-15-2012 12:31 AM #118
    Quote Originally Posted by 02JttaGLI View Post
    i used a rubber mallet to tap it in. much easier.
    that was the first thing I tried, didn't even come close to working

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    10-15-2012 09:25 AM #119
    total cost of tooling for a356-t6 cast thermo housing assy > $100K and thats in china (which I personally wont do). Then you still have quite a bit of post process machining as the cast parts are going to be far from net shape. in the end, its better to cnc the pieces.

    regarding the issue with crack pipe installation, please call when you have an issue like that. There was definitely something going on here that brute force wasnt the answer to. You need to clean out the mating bore on the water pump inlet side. Sometimes that requires a steel brush if the scale is really built up. You can then lube the o-rings and twist the pipe into the block while pushing. I know its tight, but it must be to prevent leaks. However, it should not be anywhere close to as tight as you mentioned. Using that much force you may have damaged the o-ring.

    Anyways, please call when something like that comes up. Using a bigger hammer is never the solution when dealing with a VR6 coolant system.

  15. Member mk3_vdub's Avatar
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    10-15-2012 01:34 PM #120
    I didn't take out the battery box so wasn't able to really get a good angle on it to push it on by hand, or maybe I'm just a weakling, lol. I was under the impression reading the DIY for it that it shouldn't be twisted at all when installing, as that could damage the oring. that prolly would have made it easier

    I had cleaned it out with sand paper really well before installing, And before attempting to install it looked nice and clean so I dunno. it ended up slipping in alot easier when pulled on like that, just because the force was coming from a much better angle and I was able to hold it in perfect alignment while it was being pulled on.

    anyways install was successful and we pressure tested the cooling system for leaks afterwards, so I'm pretty certain nothing was damged
    Last edited by mk3_vdub; 10-15-2012 at 01:42 PM.

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    10-16-2012 07:45 AM #121
    Quote Originally Posted by GruvenParts.com View Post
    Who would be in for a $300 machined aluminum thermo housing? If not, please post your price point.

    Honestly I don't think that's all that much at all considering all factors. Spend less on plastic and replace it as it breaks, or just bite the bullet, spend the money, don't worry about it and have some extra fancy to the bay...

  17. Member mk3_vdub's Avatar
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    10-17-2012 02:52 PM #122
    Quote Originally Posted by VR-Zych View Post
    Honestly I don't think that's all that much at all considering all factors. Spend less on plastic and replace it as it breaks, or just bite the bullet, spend the money, don't worry about it and have some extra fancy to the bay...
    very true, at this point I wouldn't mind paying that for one, mainly bc I've been patiently waiting for them to get them made for like 2 years, lol. but I think they'd sell alot more of them if it's priced similar to the crack pipes, roughly 2-2.5 times an oem version of the same part.

    it's easy to up sell people on a billet crack pipe bc it's not too much more then the oem one, but it would be difficult to get a ton of people to buy them if it's like 4 times what the plastic one costs.

    ideally they should be priced so that almost everyone that's doing a crack pipe/Tstat housing job buys this one instead of plastic.

    tldr: lower price=higher volume sold=more profit

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    10-17-2012 06:32 PM #123
    paul, when you gonna start selling the oil filter cap/drain?

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    11-06-2012 10:03 AM #124
    Still working on the oil cap/drain. Those are turning into $150 products as well, I know we need to keep pricing down. I will check with engineering and see where we are at with it.

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    11-15-2012 09:06 AM #125
    Bump for existing and future Gruven Billet !

    www.GruvenParts.com

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    11-22-2012 07:29 AM #126
    This would be a more than worthwhile item. After changing the oil this weekend on my new to me vr6, the plastic nut is almost rounded completely. Seems like a common problem amongst VR's, either stripping the drain plug or cracking the plastic hex head. 150$ seems justifiable, considering plastic factory housing is $70...

    Also just a thought to help keep machining and costs down; I'd be more than fine with a cap/housing without that drain plug. not necessary IMO.
    It's easy enough to change if careful and know what you're doing without trying to unscrew or risk stripping the plug.

    LOL even if it would only save 10 bucks or something trivial, id almost prefer a solid housing without the drain plug.

    Quote Originally Posted by GruvenParts.com View Post
    Still working on the oil cap/drain. Those are turning into $150 products as well, I know we need to keep pricing down. I will check with engineering and see where we are at with it.

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    12-03-2012 10:52 AM #127
    Very good input, thanks.

    How many others wouldnt mind if there was no drain plug on the housing? This would save a bit.

    I personally have NEVER used the drain plug, like you say, as long as you are careful its no issue.



    Quote Originally Posted by philly24v04 View Post
    This would be a more than worthwhile item. After changing the oil this weekend on my new to me vr6, the plastic nut is almost rounded completely. Seems like a common problem amongst VR's, either stripping the drain plug or cracking the plastic hex head. 150$ seems justifiable, considering plastic factory housing is $70...

    Also just a thought to help keep machining and costs down; I'd be more than fine with a cap/housing without that drain plug. not necessary IMO.
    It's easy enough to change if careful and know what you're doing without trying to unscrew or risk stripping the plug.

    LOL even if it would only save 10 bucks or something trivial, id almost prefer a solid housing without the drain plug.

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    12-03-2012 02:24 PM #128
    I never had the luxury of being able use the factory drain on the oil filter housing, because it was stripped when I bought the car. I bought a replacement plug and had zero luck removing the old plug with a few common methods but the stock aluminum bolt just deformed like putty and didn't budge.

    That said I think it would be worthwhile to include a drain option. For people who don't have a lift or don't feel like covering the whole ground/garage floor with newspaper will thank you. I know it isn't necessary, but it allows for a foolproof no mess oil change. After many oil changes I have gotten used to and can avoid spillage, but occasionally it still happens.
    Get on the LOUD pedal!

  24. Banner Advertiser GruvenParts.com's Avatar
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    12-03-2012 05:29 PM #129
    Will do, we'll include options for both ways. And our oil drain plug wont be :

    1. plastic
    2. tiny
    3. tiny and plastic
    4. soft aluminum
    ect...


    Thanks for input guys, will update again once we have a better timeline.


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    01-10-2013 10:21 AM #131


    24V Billet VR6 Drive Belt Pulleys - All 24V VR6

    GruvenParts.com offers a complete set of ultra sleek lightweight 24V VR6 power pulleys. These include lightweight billet crank, power steering, water pump, tensioner, and alternator pulleys for your 24V VR6 engine. These pulleys are precision CNC'd from aircraft grade billet aluminum and reduce the rotating mass by a whopping 8.5 lbs! All pulleys ARE NORMAL DRIVE (NOT UNDER-DRIVE). These pulleys will not change the speed of the supercharger and will not void any supercharger warranties.

    Buy them as a set and save!

    These pulleys replace the following OEM part numbers :

    Crank Pulley : 022-105-243A (022105243A)
    Tensioner Pulley: 022-145-299D (022145299D)
    Water Pump Pulley: 021-121-031A (021121031A)
    Alternator Pulley: 022-903-119A (022903119A) and 038-903-119B (038903119B)
    Power Steering Pulley : 038-145-255A (038145255A)

  26. Banner Advertiser GruvenParts.com's Avatar
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    01-14-2013 01:57 PM #132
    bump for the best products for your ride


    www.GruvenParts.com

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    01-31-2013 09:42 AM #133

    Billet 2.4” Vortech Supercharger Pulleys !

    GruvenParts.com Billet 2.4” Supercharger Pulleys for Vortech Chargers !

    Got a boost addiction? Check out these 2.4” diameter supercharger pulleys for V Series Vortech superchargers. This pulley will allow your charger to spin faster, creating more boost and more power.

    These pulleys are precision CNC’d from 6061-T6511 aluminum and are sized to precisely match the shaft output on Vortech chargers. These pulleys are 7 rib, but can be used in 6 rib applications that provide enough clearance for a 7 rib pulley (you would just have 1 empty rib). Please note the offset distance (from charger side of pulley to the centerline of the 1st rib = 0.650”). Rib spacing is 0.140” center to center (for K style serpentine belts). The overall width from end to end = 1.640”.

    These pulleys come machined to accept the standard woodruff key found on the Vortech V Series supercharger output shafts (key and bolt not included). Please calculate your maximum impeller RPM to ensure you do not overdrive the supercharger at high RPMs. This product may void any Vortech factory warranties.

  28. Banner Advertiser GruvenParts.com's Avatar
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    02-04-2013 03:02 PM #134

    MK4 Golf / Jetta / Wagon Billet Hood Pulls !

    We've been around VW's long enough to know that Murphy is a mother***! Therefore, we have crafted these billet MK4 Golf / Jetta / R32 / Wagon hood pulls from a solid blocks of aerospace grade 6061-T651 aluminum using 1 of our 5 axis CNC's. Its an exact replica of the OEM part, except made the way VW should of done it - from billet! Forget about the Pray and Pull theory, you're not breaking this one! Includes nut/bolt for the simple installation.

    These billet hood pulls replace VW P/N 1J5-823-593C (1J5823593C) for MK4 Jetta / Wagon and VW P/N 1J0-823-593C (1J0823593C) for MK4 Golf / R32

  29. Banner Advertiser GruvenParts.com's Avatar
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    02-11-2013 08:23 AM #135
    Monday bump !

    Quote Originally Posted by GruvenParts.com View Post


    24V Billet VR6 Drive Belt Pulleys - All 24V VR6

    GruvenParts.com offers a complete set of ultra sleek lightweight 24V VR6 power pulleys. These include lightweight billet crank, power steering, water pump, tensioner, and alternator pulleys for your 24V VR6 engine. These pulleys are precision CNC'd from aircraft grade billet aluminum and reduce the rotating mass by a whopping 8.5 lbs! All pulleys ARE NORMAL DRIVE (NOT UNDER-DRIVE). These pulleys will not change the speed of the supercharger and will not void any supercharger warranties.

    Buy them as a set and save!

    These pulleys replace the following OEM part numbers :

    Crank Pulley : 022-105-243A (022105243A)
    Tensioner Pulley: 022-145-299D (022145299D)
    Water Pump Pulley: 021-121-031A (021121031A)
    Alternator Pulley: 022-903-119A (022903119A) and 038-903-119B (038903119B)
    Power Steering Pulley : 038-145-255A (038145255A)

  30. Banner Advertiser GruvenParts.com's Avatar
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    02-18-2013 08:53 AM #136

    Billet 2.4” Vortech Supercharger Pulleys !

    GruvenParts.com Billet 2.4” Supercharger Pulleys for Vortech Chargers !

    Got a boost addiction? Check out these 2.4” diameter supercharger pulleys for V Series Vortech superchargers. This pulley will allow your charger to spin faster, creating more boost and more power.

    These pulleys are precision CNC’d from 6061-T6511 aluminum and are sized to precisely match the shaft output on Vortech chargers. These pulleys are 7 rib, but can be used in 6 rib applications that provide enough clearance for a 7 rib pulley (you would just have 1 empty rib). Please note the offset distance (from charger side of pulley to the centerline of the 1st rib = 0.650”). Rib spacing is 0.140” center to center (for K style serpentine belts). The overall width from end to end = 1.640”.

    These pulleys come machined to accept the standard woodruff key found on the Vortech V Series supercharger output shafts (key and bolt not included). Please calculate your maximum impeller RPM to ensure you do not overdrive the supercharger at high RPMs. This product may void any Vortech factory warranties.

  31. Banner Advertiser GruvenParts.com's Avatar
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    02-21-2013 09:34 AM #137
    GruvenParts.com is proud to release these billet intake drive unit links for ALL VW/Audi VR6 engines with the variable intake manifolds!


    VW/Audi VR6 Billet Intake Links !

    Our billet drive links replaces the plastic drive unit linkage which extends from the actuator up to the intake rod highlighted with the YELLOW arrow in this picture :



    If you have been around VR6’s that long, you already know the OEM part is made from plastic and becomes very brittle in the engine heat. Of course VW/Audi will not sell you *JUST* this part, you would have to buy a whole new drive unit for big bucks and get a bunch of stuff you don’t need. Even if you did buy the expensive OEM part, it would be PLASTIC and would quickly break again.

    GruvenParts.com builds these the way VW should have: from a solid chunk of 6061-T651 aircraft grade aluminum on a 4 axis CNC. Ours come with a Delrin insert installed in the specially machined socket to precisely mate with the ball on the intake rod. This provides excellent lubrication and unmatched strength.

    To install this part, unbolt the actuator from the engine and gently pry apart the 2 mating actuator halves (they are snap fit together). Once apart, simply remove the plastic OEM link and replace with our billet aluminum version. Snap the 2 halves back together and reinstall on the engine.

    This billet VR6 drive linkage makes a great upgrade when installing our :



    MKIV VR6 Intake Manifold Bushings - 12V and 24V VR6 Engines

    and our


    Billet Intake Manifold Drive Unit Linkage!

    You guys asked us for it and we listened. Another great billet replacement part to rid your VW/Audi of the weak plastic parts!

    Applications:
    2.8L 12 V VR6 ENGINE - with AFP Engine Code (99-02 Golf/Jetta VR6) to replace the drive unit linkage p/n 071-133-759D (071133759D) on OEM VW rod p/n 021-133-653 (021133653)

    2.8L 24 V VR6 ENGINE - BDF Engine Code (02 - present Golf/Jetta VR6) to replace the drive unit linkage p/n 022-133-759 (022133759) on OEM VW rod p/n 022-133-653 (022133653)

    3.2L 24V VR6 Engines - 04 R32, 3.2 Touareg, 3.2 Eos, 3.2 A3, 3.2 TT to replace the drive unit linkage p/n 022-133-759A (022133759A) on rod p/n 022-133-653B (022133653B)

  32. Banner Advertiser GruvenParts.com's Avatar
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    03-04-2013 01:17 PM #138
    Race proven and ready to go !





    24V Billet VR6 Drive Belt Pulleys - All 24V VR6

    GruvenParts.com offers a complete set of ultra sleek lightweight 24V VR6 power pulleys. These include lightweight billet crank, power steering, water pump, tensioner, and alternator pulleys for your 24V VR6 engine. These pulleys are precision CNC'd from aircraft grade billet aluminum and reduce the rotating mass by a whopping 8.5 lbs! All pulleys ARE NORMAL DRIVE (NOT UNDER-DRIVE). These pulleys will not change the speed of the supercharger and will not void any supercharger warranties.

    Buy them as a set and save!

    These pulleys replace the following OEM part numbers :

    Crank Pulley : 022-105-243A (022105243A)
    Tensioner Pulley: 022-145-299D (022145299D)
    Water Pump Pulley: 021-121-031A (021121031A)
    Alternator Pulley: 022-903-119A (022903119A) and 038-903-119B (038903119B)
    Power Steering Pulley : 038-145-255A (038145255A)

  33. Banner Advertiser GruvenParts.com's Avatar
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    03-11-2013 11:49 AM #139
    Lightest weight on the market !!



    Quote Originally Posted by GruvenParts.com View Post
    Race proven and ready to go !





    24V Billet VR6 Drive Belt Pulleys - All 24V VR6

    GruvenParts.com offers a complete set of ultra sleek lightweight 24V VR6 power pulleys. These include lightweight billet crank, power steering, water pump, tensioner, and alternator pulleys for your 24V VR6 engine. These pulleys are precision CNC'd from aircraft grade billet aluminum and reduce the rotating mass by a whopping 8.5 lbs! All pulleys ARE NORMAL DRIVE (NOT UNDER-DRIVE). These pulleys will not change the speed of the supercharger and will not void any supercharger warranties.

    Buy them as a set and save!

    These pulleys replace the following OEM part numbers :

    Crank Pulley : 022-105-243A (022105243A)
    Tensioner Pulley: 022-145-299D (022145299D)
    Water Pump Pulley: 021-121-031A (021121031A)
    Alternator Pulley: 022-903-119A (022903119A) and 038-903-119B (038903119B)
    Power Steering Pulley : 038-145-255A (038145255A)

  34. Member GRN6IX's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2nd, 2003
    Location
    Manchester, CT
    Posts
    3,604
    Vehicles
    2003 GTi VR6, 2006 Touareg V8
    03-12-2013 02:56 PM #140
    I'd do $300 for a Thermo housing with a billet 'pipe. Also, does this fit the BDF VR6?
    http://gruvenparts.com/website/cart/...category_id=60

    It lists the AAA & AFP...

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