I heart lego's

[Capt.Dreadz]

I'm waiting to see what M-T say's. Even if they do take them back, the wait is deadly. The summer will be over by the time i get 'em back

The failure is due to steel lug bolts going into aluminum adapters. Every other adapter i've seen came with studs. Even the Cuddy's adapters came with studs & he has the same wheels. And i never took an impact gun to them for fear of stripping the holes out completely. Definitely not a wise design IMO....unless you were using steel adapters. This is why most adapters come with studs. And lemme tell you, i rarely took the wheels off because i didn't wanna damage anymore threads. When i remove the tranny, i never took the wheels off. Just worked around it.
Things like this aggravate the sh*t outta me. Especially when you've fixed everything else & its running great. The adapters are only 4-5 months old.

I already have a set of studs i bought awhile back. Just need lugnuts. I'm gonna take them down to my machinist in the morning and see what he can do. I'm think he can screw in the studs & bead it around the neck of the stud & in the back. Its beveled enough to run a bead without effecting the flat part. As i'm sitting here writting this, i think this will be my only option...thats if i wanna enjoy the rest of the summer.

[Vee-DubbVR6]

Sucks dude.


*I forget and don't want to read through the whole thread again..*

What are the specs on the adapters you need?

[BarryV]

sigh*

My front adapters finally took a sh*t. Almost lost my wheel on the highway. I'm left with 2 options atm. Buy a new pair or have the ones i have fixed. If i buy new ones, there's no telling when i'll get 'em. It took 2 months just to get these. I'm waiting to hear back from Lenny @ M-T. The next option is to drop them off at my machinist and have him weld in some studs. It should be pretty easy as all he would need to do is bead the stud in the back.
Sucks big time as i had a photoshoot planned this weekend. And i just fixed my mysterious boost leak i had & getting full power at the moment. I threw on the ATS' up front just to move it around the yard till i figure it out. Any advice would be appreciated.

How exactly did the adapters take a crap?

-edit - I just read the response on this page - I can only imagine you got the adapters that way, because you specified that you wanted to use lug bolts, and not nuts. I can see that if it is an open lug wheel.

My suggestion - get new adapters with studs pressed in - Use tuner lug nuts, like you see a lot of in the JDM scene.

If you got them from Motorsport Tech, I'd say send them back. You might be waiting a while though. Like a long while.

Call the Dents, at 42 Draft Designs.

[Project_2501]

If that's the case, have the machine shop fix the adapters, and fwd the bill to M-T...

Idk why you didn't just get studded adapters to begin with (yeah, I know.. doesn't help). so to say I don't know why they weren't shipped as such.

Check out those 949 lugs; they're VERY lightweight.

[VDub2625]

That sucks man. DO you need the adapters to fit the wheels? I'm guessing yes since you out other wheels on. At least you can still drive it, and it wasn't worse!

[carsluTT]

not sure who your current adapters are from, i got mine made to order from www.motorsport-tech.com took all of 3 days for them to be made from the time i placed the order. hope u didnt have any major damage.

[Vee-DubbVR6]

not sure who your current adapters are from, i got mine made to order from www.motorsport-tech.com took all of 3 days for them to be made from the time i placed the order. hope u didnt have any major damage.

That's where his are from also

[BarryV]

not sure who your current adapters are from, i got mine made to order from www.motorsport-tech.com took all of 3 days for them to be made from the time i placed the order. hope u didnt have any major damage.

Buying new adapters from Lenny, is a big difference to sending him adapters back that he has to fix.


He already has your money.

[blubayou]

bummer dreadz.

This is one of the reasons I don't run wheels that require adapters; just one more potential point of failure. My mk2 has enough of those as it is!

Hope you get it remedied quickly

[db3ck]

hope you get this fixed man

[Capt.Dreadz]

Idk why you didn't just get studded adapters to begin with (yeah, I know.. doesn't help). so to say I don't know why they weren't shipped as such.

When i bought 'em, i assumed they would have 'em.

Buying new adapters from Lenny, is a big difference to sending him adapters back that he has to fix.


He already has your money.

BINGO! Whats funny is before i bought 'em, he told me 7 days to my door...the latest. It took almost 3 months & when i emailed him inquiring about it, he never replied yet before i sent him the money, he replied instantly. He just sent me an email stating for me to call him tomorrow.


The big issue is time. I know for a fact that if i send them back, it will be awhile before i get them. I wouldn't worry to much if i had a decent set to replace my Tom's. The ATS are trashed and in need of some serious repair. 3 will only hold air. The 4th has a serious chunk missing from the lip. I have a set of 15" RoH's but the offset is not good as they rub the coilover....even with 10mm spacers.

Is it poosible for me to use press in studs in the stripped holes? The holes goes all the way through. The press in studs i've seen have a lip at the end. I dunno how it would work with what i have.

This end...

[BarryV]

When i bought 'em, i assumed they would have 'em.



BINGO! Whats funny is before i bought 'em, he told me 7 days to my door...the latest. It took almost 3 months & when i emailed him inquiring about it, he never replied yet before i sent him the money, he replied instantly. He just sent me an email stating for me to call him tomorrow.


The big issue is time. I know for a fact that if i send them back, it will be awhile before i get them. I wouldn't worry to much if i had a decent set to replace my Tom's. The ATS are trashed and in need of some serious repair. 3 will only hold air. The 4th has a serious chunk missing from the lip. I have a set of 15" RoH's but the offset is not good as they rub the coilover....even with 10mm spacers.

Is it poosible for me to use press in studs in the stripped holes? The holes goes all the way through. The press in studs i've seen have a lip at the end. I dunno how it would work with what i have.

This end...

Those will work, if your current adapters can be machined to accept them. You need the primary bore to be small enough for the teeth of the stud to grab them, and the secondary bore big enough to take the press end. You will also need a nice hydraulic press to set them.

I know JR has had problems with his press lately. Hopefully, he has bought a backup machine.

I'd scrap those adapters (sucks, because I know what you ost likely paid for them) and give the guys at 42 DD a call. They can probably offer a better turn around time than motorsport, and at the same time will offer a superior product.

Last thing you want to do is throw some half assed adapters on your car, and then lose a wheel at 65 MPH

[skidplate]

You can make those studs to fit or you could drill, tap, and helicoil the holes if they stripped. (I didn't read back to see what happened) My adapters for my Porsche wheels didn't have studs either, but they're pretty damn thick (40 & 50mm) so I can run long bolts to get a good bite.

[naterkane]

if you want to send me some photos of the adapters, i'm sure we can/could get them sorted at my shop.

drilling out the reliefs on the back of the adapters are the only part of it that'll take a few minutes.

lemme know.

[Capt.Dreadz]

@ Barry
Scrapping and buying new ones aren't an option...much as I wanna do it, money doesn't allow it.

@ Naterkane,
I will take pics today but you pretty much summed up what I need done. Ill post more when I get home. My wife is in the middle of surgery and I'm currently nodding in the waiting room.

[Capt.Dreadz]

I think the press in studs will work. The teeth look to to bigger then the threaded part. Being that the holes are threaded all the way through, he would just have to machine the back to counter sink the tab at the end & the teeth will be grabbing the shredded lug bolt threads. Worse case he can tack the back tab.


now i gotta find the right length. 50mm should be fine. i'm not running spacers in the front of the adapters so they don't need to be long. I think the shortest they come is 44mm.


Another thing i noticed when i took the adapter off the PS was the one of the inner bolts were loose. And i torqued these down just about every time i took the wheels off. WTF, i gotta put thread lock on them My next set of wheels will definitely be 4x100.

On a brighter note, i'm gonna get the new tires thrown on the 2 fronts while they're off. I'm gonna order new studs tonight. I can get the lug nuts over the weekend. The sooner i can get the studs, the sooner i can drop them off.

[dubinsincuwereindiapers]

^^^sounds like a nice bulletproof solution. Id have em tack those puppies tho just for insurance

[BarryV]

Tack welding steel lugs to aluminum adapters should be fun

Save your pennies dude - 1552 sells a double patterned hub system. 5x100 and 4x100. Awesome alternative for existing 4x100 cars where the owner wants to expand the wheel possibilities

[Capt.Dreadz]

Save your pennies dude - 1552 sells a double patterned hub system. 5x100 and 4x100. Awesome alternative for existing 4x100 cars where the owner wants to expand the wheel possibilities

Won't work. My offset would be way off. As i mentioned before, Those type of options are not in the cards. I am not spending anymore money then i need. Going that route or buying new adapters will be waste in that i spent $400 for nothing. Worse case i'll wait till Jr. fixes it. I have 4 kids, a wife & a house to think about. I understand where you're coming from. Trust me i do. But the car is not on my priority list in that i can think of a million more important things to spend that money on & it would start with my family. My goal right now is to safely fix what i have. Yes, it would be difficult to weld the two together. I have another simple solution to fix the problem if it comes. The width of the teeth area is plenty grip. If it can't be done then plan B would be to go the Lenny route & deal with the time. **** it, the car will just have to sit out the summer or until i get another set of wheels.

My spare money is what built this car. That is after bills, making sure the kids have what they need. even my dog comes before the car. I actually have the money to buy new adapters. Even new wheels...but that wouldn't be fair to my family.


After looking at the adapters, i realize that some of the holes are close together. Which in a way a good thing. After they're pressed in, the hole next to it can be redrilled which will notch the tab a fraction. That bolt will keep it from turning in the event the teeth fail....which i doubt it would. All said & done it will cost me $100 for everything. $60 for the studs, $40 for the lugnuts & a 6 pk & some company to get the work done. I think this will be stronger then the normal adapter that use studs as they're using screw in ones. I'll take my chances with this then what i've been rolling on for the past few months. i'm shocked it held up as long as it did. I don't care what type of aluminum you're using, steel lug bolts will east them up. And it didn't strip from cross threading. It stripped from the lug bolts shearing off the threads.


I'll post the pic's i've taken in a bit. Just gotta upload them. It's weird. The front threads where the most pressure is at are sheared off yet the back threads are almost fine.

Oh, and just to be clear. My boy has all the necessary tools for the job. If he thinks its a bad or good idea, i'm going with it. We'll know by Mon. or tues.

[Road Boss]

Sorry to hear about the adapters Dreadz. Glad that you and the car is in one piece though. I have heard things like this happening for years running adapters and it has made me afraid to use them. I hope you get thing sorted out with them.

[Vee-DubbVR6]

I say you're on the right track to get them repaired correctly...worth the attempt anyway. I don't see why it wouldn't work.

This is another reason why I LOVE using H&R spacers/adapters when they're in an available size per the purchaser's application- they have steel threaded ring inserts that they press into the aluminum, thus potentially eliminating something like this from happening. (obviously still possible to jack the threads up, but less likely to be totally stripped out just from normal useage.)

Good luck Dreadz, I'm crossing my fingers that it goes smoothly for you and you can still enjoy it for the summer months!

[Capt.Dreadz]

Ok...call me OCD but i think i've found a plan B (if i can't use the press in studs). And after talking to the customer service guy, he see's no reason why they shouldn't work. They're made for aluminum & they lock in place...


They come in various lengths so i can get a sleeve long enough to cover the whole threaded section. It will cost me the same as plan A. I'm going to the machinist on Mon. to get the green light. Then i'll buy what i need...depending if it can be done or not. I prefer the studs anyday.

[a1m4ni4k]

It took me a couple of days, quite a few sittings to read through all this.. you sir are amazing!! Your car, the meaning behind the build... the free mind and great patience has payed off!

It sucks d**k to see your having adapter issues i used a company called adaptitusa i think i got
All four to run the shooters on the glx for 250-300?? Never had an issue. Your plans A and B seem like itll be a solid job and function well!

Dreadz you have baller skillz brother, I cant wait to see whats to come and some pix of the photo shoot lined up! Or dyno numbers lol I'm pumped for you!!!

I hope all is well with your family and your back be safe man and keep up the great work im not capable of a car this clean I'm lucky if i wash my cars once a year smh..

[Capt.Dreadz]

Thanks alot for the kind words


Ok fella's..need some advise. I think i'm gonna go with ARP wheel studs but the problem is they come in various lengths & diameters. They are mainly bought by the kind of car you have. I don't have an accurate enough measuring device to size up the holes as the knurled end of the stud comes in different length & dia. I manage to get a rough estimate which is a hair under 1/2". The Honda studs come with a .485 dia so i'm gonna apply it to what i have. The problem is do i get the Honda studs or do i find ones with a bigger diameter. (As i'm typing this, it makes sense to do the latter). If so, how much bigger? There are some that come .509 & up. I thought about getting the .509 (knurled dia.). Next would be the perfect length. I don't want it to look to ricey, poking past the wheels. The sucky thing is i might have to give a bit length for the right knurl dia. I'm thinking after he machines out the holes, it will be about 1/2".

one's i'm looking at.


@ SummitRacing

[blubayou]

length ishard to judge without knowing the hub thickness on the wheels, so I can't say what is best. My one suggestions is that too big in diameter on the knurled section and too long are both the most easily remedied problems with fit. If the dia. is too great, the holes can be drilled out to the ride diameter. If the length is too great, they could be cut down.

That's my thought process on it, anyway....

[skidplate]

length ishard to judge without knowing the hub thickness on the wheels, so I can't say what is best. My one suggestions is that too big in diameter on the knurled section and too long are both the most easily remedied problems with fit. If the dia. is too great, the holes can be drilled out to the ride diameter. If the length is too great, they could be cut down.

That's my thought process on it, anyway....

[Capt.Dreadz]

Thanks Blue...makes sense. Going through VR withdrawals. I think i'm gonna have to pull him out for some tire destruction

[blubayou]

no sweat

Next time I'll try not to post while watching TV. I just reread my last post and wondered if I had been drinking

length is_hard to judge without knowing the hub thickness on the wheels, so I can't say what is best. My one suggestions? is that too big in diameter on the knurled section and too long are both the most easily remedied problems with fit. If the dia. is too great, the holes can be drilled out to the ride? diameter...

I know it's just the interwebs, but still

[Capt.Dreadz]

Ok, after some measuring, i'll have an inch of thread which is perfect as the one stud/lug/barrel thingy has 1" worth of thread. I did some searching & the .485" is the size i'll need. The super bonus is i found someone selling a full BNIB set on flebay for $60. Would've cost me $100.

[db3ck]

cant wait for you to get this back on the road, im glad you found a good cheap option to fix the problem

[khemiicalz]

Hey dreadz, got any leads on those screw sleeves?
also, the hub bolt for 5 lugs are 14mm, about 25mm deep,keep a inch more for the lug nuts, as these conversions advise running open-ended lug nuts. Your ok with a inch and a half, add more for spacers and wheel center thickness.
Look up Mercedes sstud conversions, they use identical hubs and should work with your looking for

[Capt.Dreadz]

Hey dreadz, got any leads on those screw sleeves?
also, the hub bolt for 5 lugs are 14mm, about 25mm deep,keep a inch more for the lug nuts, as these conversions advise running open-ended lug nuts. Your ok with a inch and a half, add more for spacers and wheel center thickness.
Look up Mercedes sstud conversions, they use identical hubs and should work with your looking for

Ebay for those those sleeves....

The studs are being used on my 4 to 5 lug adapters. This is why its been difficult to find the right set as most are made to press in the hub. And yup, i'm gonna use open face lugnuts. Finding the right length is the key atm.

[db3ck]

dreadz what would you recommend for just a lug bolt to stud swap?? ive been looking and its just kinda confusing and i dont wanna spend a ton just on studs thanks

cant wait to see your car on the road again

[Capt.Dreadz]

Most use screw in type which is fine. Something i should've done from day 1. Fine the cheapest ones you can find as they're all the same. Pretty much the same with the lugs. I've combed through many sites over the past week and they all might stick a different name on it but at the end of the day, they're all the same. I found that ARP & H&R are the only place that manuf. their own studs. All the rest are copies of the H&R studs but they're all based off the same design using the same material. What makes ARP stand out from the rest is they make various sizes. To use the press in studs as an example...Every place sells the same size/dia. .485/.275/12x1.5. You'll get 40,60 & 70mm lengths. ARP sells from .485 to .563 and in various lengths & threads.


I've said this many times in this thread & i'm gonna say it again...Paypal SUCKS~! All the orders i've made this past week has been "declined" due to not being verified and my limit was reached. This is the 3rd time in almost a year i've put in my info in....WTF Now i gotta wait till it clears...again... I've spent well over $10k in the last year through Paypal. That should be enough f*ckin' verification

[db3ck]

alright thanks man

that sucks man you think they would know ok this guys like to use us alot and if we want to keep his business then we should accommodate his needs if he wants to spend 10k + a yr then we shouldn't give him problems paypal