ok...might as well update....
Revamping the IC piping & swapping out the IC. I will be loosing about 3ft. of tubing with this set up. After doing some research over the past few days, i realize that my tubing setup is all wrong and i'm not doing the turbo justice. The more tubing you have the longer it takes for it to build up to full boost. No matter where i set the boost controller, it doesn't have enough rpm room to reach full boost. With the piping i have now i should've went with a 2" tubing. The new IC dimensions are 24x12x4".
Soon as i get the IC in & installed, im gonna get the tubing welded up. Im gonna finally install this Tial 50mm i have sitting in the box.
Other then this, everything else is pretty much at a stand still. Sadly the engine in the Allroad took a crap. The T-belt snapped which bent the valves. So my plan atm is to get wifey a temp beater while i rebuild the AR. My car he taken over daily duties and i'm not happy about that. So getting her another car is top on the list. Getting the other Jetta & VR'ing it came to mind. Reality is that i need something ASAP so im gonna look at a 98 GLX & a 01 GL this weekend. Wifey gave me the green light to do what i do...on the AR. So full rebuild & hopefully a K04 upgrade. *sigh*
I'm still working on getting those Bride Low Max seats. Only issue atm is finding rails for it. only ones i can find are custom.
Im also gonna ditch my stereo setup. I rarely listen to it (to busy listening for noises). I'm just gonna keep in the deck & shelf speakers. Eventually i wanna get a fuel cooler/swirl pot and mount my fuel pump in the trunk. Upgrade the tank pump as well.
Perfect example of what i'm taking about...
What kind of bases do you need? I have a set of semi-universal brackets; a couple of holes drilled and they'll mount to anything. For a Corrado too, so they're nice and low (I'm 6'1").
That trunk setup looks killer for using the stock fuel tank.
(Glad you caught the humor with my last post. Snarky doesn't always pan out on the interwebs. )
Finally got my IC in today & i wasted no time mounting it
Lets take moment to check out what the poor VWMS IC looks like. Such a shame
How it sits..
And here the new one. BIG bish. 24x11.25x4. 3" in/out
Surprisingly it was easier to install then the old one. The most mportant thing was i manage to get rid of ALOT of piping.
And i didn't even have to trim the bumper skin but i hacked it up. It will be changed real soon so i experimented a little. This is what it looks like after everything's buttoned up.
What piping i was left with won't need much welding. I got it down to 5 connections (doubled that before)
I manage to take a quick drive around the corner. It was late and my back was on FIRE 2 things that was noticeable. I can actually hear my turbo spool up. And the boost needle jumps really quick. My neighborhood is full of hills so i can't gun it without scrapping the bumper at the bottom of the hill. If it doesn't rain tomorrow, i'll take it out for a good flogging.
FYI, the reason why i went with a 3" in/out was based off some test Buscher Racing did on their Evo X. (I lurk the DSM forum as my good friend is big into it). Obviously they're testing a 4 cyl. but the theory applies across the board.
They did a back to back dyno testing different size boost tubing. In the end they proved that the differences are very min. (difference was 6hp/2ft.lbs & 20rpm) The test they made the most power, the full boost came in 20rpm later they used a IC with a 3" in/out reduced to 2.5" piping. Surprisingly the full 3" made the least power AND IAT increased. We're talking about a 600hp setup.
I'm determined to reach 20lb On a brighter note. I was just chatting with Clay@CTS and they're gonna make me a 3" downpipe.
Gonna pick up some new plugs & oil change stuff. Its long overdue.
Never done...stay tune
'87 GTI 1.8t, '03 20th GTI #2100, '96 Ranger 4x2
'01 TT 180Q, '98 Ranger 4x4, '01 Catera, '90 GLI 16vT, '94 850 Turbo, '90 Golf, '89 Golf, '90 Mustang LX, '91 Jetta, '88 9000S, '86 Jetta, '91 Continental
Some small updates...
I finally changed my plugs. I switched up to a colder plug (NGK 5238 *9 rated) I bought 35 plugs being that i got a good deal. (20) 5238 & (15) 4554 * rated. I manage to do a gap test to see whats the best for my setup. I did a .22, .25, .28 & .30. I found that the small gap gives good idle & off boost driving but sucks while building boost & at full boost....yet the big (.30) gap gave the total opposite results. idle sucked but was great up top. In the end i gapped a fresh set to .25 and it runs great. I also turned down the fuel pressure a bit.
Old plugs. Signs of running rich...
Normally i roll the car outside to work on it but it was hot as hell this day. So i rolled it in a bit
Dying of heat
Soon as the new tubing comes in, off to get welded & powdercoated. Gonna change the oil & fuel filter next week. Hopefully i can get it in to get dyno'd. Just gotta fix my OBD scan plug & remove the CEL. The car is running great since i changed the IC. Not as laggy as before. Reaching 1 bar no problem.
And i've been chatting with the guys at CoolingMist and they just came out with a new version of their controller & they're willing to gimme a discount on it. I want the gauge. Its hard to tune with the box on my lap.
More to come....
Few small updates...
I can't trade in my w/m controller due the deal i got when i bought the setup. Oh well.
Came across 2 fuel leaks last week. one was at the FPR and the other a broken fuel line clamp. The leak at the FPR was from using a non o-ring fitting for the 3rd port. I'm surprise it lasted this long (9 months). I just used a thicker o-ring over the -6 fitting & some thread sealer. I actually ordered the correct fitting for it. I just replaced the o-ring on the one i have till it comes in.
The fuel clamp leak was the worse. It almost look like a rock took it out. I replaced it with a new fuel line clamp & its good to go. It made a HUGE difference as my FP is much stable.
The belt tensioner bearing was starting to go. It sounded like power steering without the fluid. Whats crazy is that after changing it, i realize its been slowly going for awhile. Its real quite. Something i haven't heard in a longtime. I had a GAP aluminum tensioner pulley in the stash
I did an oil change & flushed/changed the coolant yesterday.. I can now say its running 100%. Only thing i gotta change is the strut bearings. I have a set of new VR6 strut bearing & rubber.
Tried making an appt for the dyno & they no longer have it Gotta find another place.
Short vid. Trying to see where my a/f are during driving. Rich points are due to the BOV. MAF is trying to calibrate. Gonna fix that issue soon. I've also since adjusted the FPR & widened the gap on the plugs a bit. She running PERFECT. Shockingly quite considering the 2.5" unrestricted exhaust. Nothing but pipe from turbo to muffler. Gonna take some better vid's soon.
More to come. Stay tuned...
No EGT gauge. I've sent that video to a few experts before posting it in here. Mainly wondering why it gets rich & they all said it good to go & the a/f are reading good. The rich points are due to me not having a DV so the MAF is not seeing the air the BOV lets out.
Every WB i've seen does the same thing......
I can honest say that on Sept. 1st, Pops is running 1000%. Found 2 small vac leaks. The nipple on the intake mani for the FPR & the elbow for the main vac line were leaking. Spent most of the day yesterday redoing the lines that are coming out the intake mani ports.
The biggest difference i've seen is it doesn't dip below idle (Like if i get off the gas while in motion) and the idle is more stable. Its really quiet not to mention its reaching positive pressure way faster then before which means i'm entering boost much sooner.
And stay tune for the new photoshoot pics....
Here's a few from Weds. taken by one of the best (imho) Photographers in NY. JohnA1's GLI ftw...
I love this car. Wheels set it off....and the white cage
Still having nightmares...
Yeah my LC1 does the same thing on the G60, goes to 21.9 or something on decel. I'm pretty sure that's as lean as the gauge can read.
But more to the point.....DREADZ! You big pimp, this is exactly what I want to do next. I need more power and my one buddy is pushing VRT and the other 1.8T. And what's funny about that is I currently run a Jetta G60 with Nitrous, and I know you've been done that road before. The quest for more power never ends does it?
"Criminally insane, with a few brief lucid intervals."
| Rust | Zip-Ties | JB Weld | Bad Idle | Scrapes Ground | Rubs when Turning | Busted Ass Door handles |
I'm running a Pro-MAF so adaption is quick. I've since fixed the issue & it no longer hunts. Almost all the Pro-MAF guys i know are running a BOV. Its not as bad as most make it out to be. The air tat the MAF doesn't see, it makes up for it by giving the ECU an average reading. Its only for a split sec. so you never notice it. All you need to do is stiffen up the BOV spring a bit to give it a quicker reaction. I have no problems between gears or while going through them. No stutter, no dip in rpms, nothing. No matter where the rpms are at, it will always drop to idle. So smooth you don't notice it. I Pro-MAF.
Ah OK... I didn't know enough about your setup.
Glad to hear it about the roll bar (I'm taking one out of my yellow mk1 tomorrow b/c it's terribly designed/welded)
A friend of mine has a sentra rally car he's driven on the street w/o a helmet and it scares the hell out of me that he does that.
I'll look into pro-maf, the 1.8t going into my yellow mk1 is running the stock diverter, but I'm curious to learn more about what you've put together.
I need to run out your way in the next few days to pick up a pair of seats... we should maybe meet one of these days.
Thank you. far from done. Trying to make an appt for the dyno as we speak.
Well...being that Papa Smurf isn't making it to H2oi (that might change...) Been working hard on fixing some issues i've been having. The erractic idle & a/f's @ idle along with a few other things. Manage to hit the junky today to pick up the things i needed. Throttle Body (as the TPS was the issue), DV i snatched outta Saab & a Scan port so i can VAG it. The TB fixed my idle issue & the DV fixed flutter issue. Now i run both DV & BOV. The DV will handle anything under 15# and the BOV got anything above that. Its working great. It eliminated the low boost flutter. Now i don't have to soften the BOV spring to the point it can't hold boost.
Next on the list is a turbo back exhaust upgrade. Going from 2.5 to 3" should unleash some power. New tires also. Fronts are nearly bald. Instead of buying 2 fronts, i'm changing all 4. Suspension upgrade too. The Racelands are getting tired & i want something better. This is where most would get bags....but i'm into more then just the looks. I've always felt that a car doesn't have to be dumped on the oil pan just to look good. Hopefully this winter i can get it resprayed.
Work is never done so more to come...
Photo shoot will be soon......