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    Thread: Car shut off, battery light on

    1. Member agreenbhm's Avatar
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      05-28-2010 10:21 AM #1
      On my way to work today I pulled to a stop at a traffic light and I felt my 1.8T shut off (I have an automatic, by the way). I looked at the dash and the battery light was on. I put the car in park, turned the key off all the way, then tried to turn it back on. It took a while cranking up but eventually started and I was able to get to work. After I started the car that time, the EPC light was on, but not the battery light. When I got to work, I parked, shut the car off, then turned it back on to see if the light was still there. It wasn't; the dash was clean.

      Any ideas? I saw mentioned on another site that perhaps my alternator was the problem, but I don't know if that was specific to my vehicle.

      Any help is appreciated.

      Thanks,

      Drew

    2. Member germanlook72's Avatar
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      05-28-2010 10:27 AM #2
      not sure if it is the problem your having but anytime you see a battery light on it is connected to altenator problems not the battery. try taking it to advance or autozone and the can test it for free. if not just check the common things like belt tension and fuses.

    3. Member agreenbhm's Avatar
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      05-28-2010 10:30 AM #3
      Quote Originally Posted by germanlook72 View Post
      not sure if it is the problem your having but anytime you see a battery light on it is connected to altenator problems not the battery. try taking it to advance or autozone and the can test it for free. if not just check the common things like belt tension and fuses.
      I was planning on taking it to Autozone to do just that. Glad I was on the right track. Those "common things" you say to check are not something I know how to do (although I could perhaps figure out the fuses).

      Thanks for your help. I also want to add that when I started the car after arriving at work it cranked up just like usual, seemingly without issue.

    4. 05-29-2010 09:47 AM #4
      If you are saying that the battery light was on when the engine wasn't running that is normal. The alternator can't charge the battery when the engine isn't running.

    5. Member agreenbhm's Avatar
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      05-29-2010 10:04 AM #5
      I took the car to Advance Auto Parts and they were not able to determine what the issue was. At first they said the battery and alternator were fine, then they ran their test again and said "That's wierd" about something (I believe my alternator), although I'm not exactly sure what about it they were referencing. They gave me some print outs of their tests and told me to bring the car back in today to re-run the tests.

      Driving last night my car did this same thing again. I was pulling out of a parking lot and was stopped waiting for traffic to pass. While completely stopped, the engine shut off and the battery light appeared. I turned the car back on and it seemed to be ok.

      I don't know very much about transmissions or anything like that, but could this be the tranny slipping when stopped, almost like the vehicle is stalling?

      Any ideas?

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      05-29-2010 10:47 AM #6
      I took mine to a VW mechanic, explained a very similar problem:

      -Car stutters, battery light and the traction control light come on for a sec. Occasionally it will stutter to a complete stall, most of the time just enough to worry me.
      -What I have that you dont seem to: Guages/controls/radio backlight flicker; When the engine stutters, a lot of the time the radio will cut out (I also have a ground issue somewhere as I hear engine noise in stock head unit)

      After explaining this, he said it's most likely a bad diode/alternator issue. Alternator test didnt turn anything up, as the car would have to stutter while being tested, which isnt likely.

      Hope this helps.

    7. Member agreenbhm's Avatar
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      05-29-2010 11:10 AM #7
      I'm finding that sometimes I need to crank it up longer than usual. It's hard to explain. I turn the key to start the car and it sounds like it's trying to start until I turn the key back towards me, which allows it to turn over. I'm wondering if it could be a problem with some kind of ignition system?

    8. Junior Member volksvagen_bryan's Avatar
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      05-29-2010 02:15 PM #8
      Quote Originally Posted by agreenbhm View Post
      I'm finding that sometimes I need to crank it up longer than usual. It's hard to explain. I turn the key to start the car and it sounds like it's trying to start until I turn the key back towards me, which allows it to turn over. I'm wondering if it could be a problem with some kind of ignition system?
      I am having the same exact problem currently. I thought that mine was the alternator, but tested it already by disconnecting the negative battery cable with the car running, and the car stayed running. Good sign that it is not the alternator. Could be an emissions problem somewhere. I just replaced my fuel filter about 1 week ago, dont think that could be my problem. Hoping this gets figured out soon, I already spent about 500 dollars this month on fixing things, new c/v axle, ball joint, hub and bearing, all on the front passenger side.

    9. Junior Member volksvagen_bryan's Avatar
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      05-29-2010 02:18 PM #9
      actually, now that i think about it, i just got a letter in the mail last week about another VW recall that affects my VIN. This recall is for the coilpacks....but i would think that bad coilpacks would just cause misfiring and not a complete stall. Im going to take mine in to get that and the moonroof recall TCO'd.

    10. 05-29-2010 02:43 PM #10
      Quote Originally Posted by volksvagen_bryan View Post
      I thought that mine was the alternator, but tested it already by disconnecting the negative battery cable with the car running, and the car stayed running.
      Just the thing that can fry the diodes in the alternator.

    11. 05-29-2010 02:54 PM #11
      your alternator and battery are fine.
      stay away from an autoparts store for a diagnosis.
      scan the car for codes.

    12. Member agreenbhm's Avatar
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      05-29-2010 05:37 PM #12
      Quote Originally Posted by beaker420 View Post
      your alternator and battery are fine.
      stay away from an autoparts store for a diagnosis.
      scan the car for codes.
      I'm heading to my parents house tonight where I have my VAG-COM cable. I'll bring it home and hook it up to my car tomorrow and post the results here.

    13. Member agreenbhm's Avatar
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      05-30-2010 04:46 PM #13
      These are the codes that my car is giving me. I have the APR chip in my car that I was running for about 4 years. I turned it back to stock about 2 months ago and have been running 87 octane in the car after running premium since I got the car chipped. I also have a Forge 007 dv installed with either the yellow or green spring, whichever one is for lower boost. I have seen the Boost Pressure Control Valve code in the past but have ignored it.

      Address 01 -------------------------------------------------------
      Controller: 06A 906 032 HF
      Component: 1.8L R4/5VT G 0005
      Coding: 07550
      Shop #: WSC 78645
      3VWSE69M82M138594 VWZ7Z0A4701388
      3 Faults Found:
      17608 - Boost Pressure Control Valve (N249): Mechanical Malfunction
      P1200 - 35-00 - -
      16795 - Secondary Air Injection System: Incorrect Flow Detected
      P0411 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
      16706 - Engine Speed Sensor (G28): No Signal
      P0322 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
      Readiness: 0000 0000

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      05-30-2010 06:18 PM #14
      Quote Originally Posted by agreenbhm View Post
      These are the codes that my car is giving me. I have the APR chip in my car that I was running for about 4 years. I turned it back to stock about 2 months ago and have been running 87 octane in the car after running premium since I got the car chipped. I also have a Forge 007 dv installed with either the yellow or green spring, whichever one is for lower boost. I have seen the Boost Pressure Control Valve code in the past but have ignored it.

      Address 01 -------------------------------------------------------
      Controller: 06A 906 032 HF
      Component: 1.8L R4/5VT G 0005
      Coding: 07550
      Shop #: WSC 78645
      3VWSE69M82M138594 VWZ7Z0A4701388
      3 Faults Found:
      17608 - Boost Pressure Control Valve (N249): Mechanical Malfunction
      P1200 - 35-00 - -
      16795 - Secondary Air Injection System: Incorrect Flow Detected
      P0411 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
      16706 - Engine Speed Sensor (G28): No Signal
      P0322 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
      Readiness: 0000 0000
      I'd look into the Boost pressure code and than the engine speed sensor.
      Quote Originally Posted by Braga_Dub View Post
      When the Earths normal shift in plate tectonics causes you to scrape while parked. You are almost low enough.

    15. Member agreenbhm's Avatar
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      05-30-2010 06:30 PM #15
      I'm guessing it's the engine speed sensor code, as like stated earlier I've seen the boost pressure code before. I found another post somewhere where someone is referencing their EPC light coming on and having the speed sensor code.

    16. Member BassNotes's Avatar
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      05-30-2010 06:40 PM #16
      BREAKING NEWS:

      If the engine is shut off, the alternator is not putting out anything. Even if it has nothing wrong with it. A battery discharge indication when the engine is off does not even suggest that the alternator is bad.


      If you're turning the key to completely off and the battery light is still lit, I'd suspect that your ignition switch is bad.
      Last edited by BassNotes; 05-30-2010 at 06:55 PM.
      Bob Lee
      2002 GTI 1.8t 244,000+ miles
      VCDS 14.10.0 with KEY-USB interface

    17. Member agreenbhm's Avatar
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      05-30-2010 06:42 PM #17
      No need for the sarcasm but thanks for the input. I guess I'll be checking out that sensor I mentioned above.

    18. Member BassNotes's Avatar
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      05-30-2010 06:42 PM #18
      Try clearing the codes and then do a TBA. See if they come back.
      Bob Lee
      2002 GTI 1.8t 244,000+ miles
      VCDS 14.10.0 with KEY-USB interface

    19. Member agreenbhm's Avatar
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      05-30-2010 06:43 PM #19
      Quote Originally Posted by BassNotes View Post
      Try clearing the codes and then do a TBA. See if they come back.
      TBA?

    20. Member BassNotes's Avatar
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      05-30-2010 06:46 PM #20
      You can also get miscellaneous intermittent codes from a bad/dirty/corroded/loose ground cable connection between the engine, chassis, and - battery terminal.
      Bob Lee
      2002 GTI 1.8t 244,000+ miles
      VCDS 14.10.0 with KEY-USB interface

    21. Junior Member volksvagen_bryan's Avatar
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      05-31-2010 12:51 AM #21
      Replaced my crankshaft position sensor tonight aka engine speed sensor. Cleared the engine code from the ECU (P0322) and car seems to be running better now. Will let you know again in a week. That sensor sure was a pain in the butt to replace though, took about two hours just to get it out. If you end up doing it, I suggest taking out the oil filter before you try taking the sensor out of the block, mine was stuck in there pretty good, and my hands are huge so i had a hard time maneuvering in there till i took the filter out, then a small pair of pliers took the sensor right out. of course add a little more oil after replacing the filter ...good luck.

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