Good job bud
1. Open your door wide open
2. Remove the tweeter cover. Remove the window switch top cover using a very thin wedge or something that won't damage the trim. Remove door trim. Remove 2 screws (t25)
3. Use wedge/pry tool or something to pop out the interior door panel, starting from the bottom and working your way up along the sides, carefully. The unhook the top part of the panel from the tract, by pulling up forcefully.
4. While holding the panel, use other hand to pop out the cable for the door and unhook it from the panel. Also you need to remove the connector near the speaker and the connector with a purple tab connected to the window motor.
5. Remove 3 screws (t30?) that holds the motor to the regulator, which is on the other side the metal sheet. Admire the damaged regulator. Pinch the white tabs and push into the other side to unmount regulator.
6. Pry/pop out the black plastic/rubber piece to gain access to the regulator when removing it later on. Remove 4 screws (t25).
7. Pull out rubber pieces on each end of the door. This side and one near the hinges. Also, remove circle rubber cover which conceals another screw. Remove, all for screws (t40-45?)
8. Remove that screw (t30?).
9. Once all 9 screws are removed, pull out the top window frame towards you for about 2-3 inches and then pull up carefully, but forcefully.
10. Remove the damaged regulator by sliding the window glass off and unscrewing the one screw (t25). Also, two other screws holding the glass to the regulator need to be removed. Then replace with new regulator.
11. Replace the window frame by tilting it towards you and sliding it down into place. Will take a couple of tries, but you'll eventually get it in.
12. Make sure that the screw holes are aligned and screw all 9 screws back together. Pop the window regulator tabs back into place.
13. Reinstall everything.
14. Done. 1- 1.5 hours max.
I am stocking (well, trying) all available Audi (and VW) window regulator repair clips for models sold in North America.
I just came across a client with a failed front left window regulator.
I am now contacting my European manufacturers to see if they make the A3 8P clips (front and rear), and I am in need of good photos showing the clip.
Also looking for good, detailed DIY write ups for taking the door panels off, changing the regulator (and clips).
Please PM or send email (photos!) to firstname.lastname@example.org
The forums get a source for clips at a reasonable price.
But yes, I am 'compensating' those who contribute (and may become clients).
They get free clips (only pay S&H) (either for models I already stock, or the clips I am trying to find manufacturers for).
Currently stocking (examples) (clips in large quantity, as 'back up' for clients-in-need also small quantity of pulleys, typically just one set of cables) for those models:
A3 (8L) front
A4 (B5) front
A4 (B6, B7) front, rear
A6 (C5) front
A6 (C6) rear (rare; took me a while to get that one)
Passat front, rear (with the peg/pin)
Golf front, rear
Jetta front, rear
Jetta front (metal)
Others: BMW, Saab, Volvo, Jaguar, Porsche, Land Rover, Mercedes, Ford Focus, some GM, Lincoln LS, Opel Astra,
2011 A3 2.0T Monza silver metallic S Line
A) it could fit your (assuming you have the listed year/model/location
B) you may only need the plastic guide clip. They are by far the most common cause for failure. I think I have them in stock. Ca $20 shipped in US.
Sidenote: ECS is talkink about dusted cables as a cause. I have not seen one rusted czble causing an audi regulator to fail!