"how much was that" apron assembly $553.48. Yes, I think the drivers side is a bit cheaper. I do not know why, unless its because drivers side does not have this extra bracket piece on it.
"Do you have a pic of the area with the shock tower removed?" Yes, I have taken a lot of pics. What area are you interested in, and i will put photobucket them and post a link.
"What areas are different?" I have a gap between part of the new apron, and the chassis. Trying to determine how to narrow that gap. See photo.
"How are you ensuring that the strut top is in the same place? Measure the gap between strut towers?"
I would not say its foolproof, but the factory gave me some help. See areas circled on the photos below. At the front, there is an alignment tab, with a square hole. Piece goes in, you push it into place, and bend the tab over. Also at the rear there is a post coming out of the door jam area, and the new apron has a semi-circle cut out of it to go around the post. I also line up the line in the sealant where the old apron edges were, with the new apron. Its very clear. Up on top, the apron overlaps a chassis piece, and the hood hinge has two holes, one goes into the old chassis, the other goes into the new apron. Circles in the paint clearly show where the bolt heads used to be. With all these "landmarks" to go by, I don't see how I could screw up. Up and down, back and forth, and side to side, the new one goes exactly where the old one went. At this point I really have only two concerns. Closing the gap between the apron and the chassis in those areas (photo above), and then controlling the fires that will start when I light off the welder and sparks fly.