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    Thread: Coilover DIY. H&R Ultralows. Lots of Pix & Lots of details

    1. Member ShadowWabbit's Avatar
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      2007 Rabbit (RIP), 2010 CC VR6 3.6 4motion
      06-04-2010 10:52 PM #1
      WARNING/LEGAL ADDRESS: I am NOT a professional or trained and therefore I take no credit for any damages/deaths/injuries that occur while using anything in this thread. Always have a trained professional work on your car. AKA DON'T SUE ME IF U F...K UP!
      Also as stated above I'm not a pro so I'm sure there are better methods then my own. so if u know a better way, please contribute!

      OKAY! on to the DIY

      Specialty tools i recommend www.Metalnerd.com good ppl
      14 mm 12 Point Driver

      Strut Spreader Bit

      Specialty Double 21 & 22 mm Strut Nut Sockets

      Assorted tools
      13mm short socket
      16mm deep socket
      17mm or lug wrench
      18mm standard socket
      18mm deep socket
      axle bolt 27mm socket 6point (old bolt) or 24mm socket 12point (revised bolt)
      Automotive jack
      2 or 4 jack stands
      Needle nose locking pliers (i used them between the front sway bar link bushing and bracket since it just spins and wasn't loosening or tightening)
      Spring compressor or 2 (i did w/o but for this u'll need replacement strut mounts & strut bearings
      breaker bar recommended
      a partner is also recommended or rig up a block of wood to hold the break when tightening axle like i did
      PB blaster or similar

      these are recommended to be replaced: 2 front Strut mounts , 2 front Strut Bearings, 2 Axle Bolt, 2 Strut Pinch Bolts. Replace rear bolts if u'd like as well. ECS provides all these in a kit.
      Assembling Coilover
      Place the double socket like so with a hex driver (sorry to say i dont remember the size since i borrowed it) and tighten the nut to 60Nm/44ft-lb


      Front Suspension\
      Start by loosening the wheel lugs a bit and loosen the axle bolt (DO NOT LOOSEN MORE THEN 1/4 turn) while on the ground


      Jack up car and place ur jack stands, refer to the manual if ur unsure as to where to place them. remove wheels.
      Remove swaybar endlink on both sides. 18mm + needle nose vice like so

      un-clip speed sensor wire and HID's where applicable
      Remove bolts under wheel bearing housing. 16mm
      Remove lower strut bolt. 14mm 12point driver + 18mm deep socket on opposite side

      Place jack under wheel bearing housing, i used the brake rotor since this is just to support weight
      Remove axle bolt. Tap with socket extension or similar so axle comes free

      Use strut spreader, turn 90 degrees to spread.

      Use the PB blaster or other on the lower strut and allow to set .
      now jiggle that sucker loose
      Once the lower end of the strut is loose, remove the three nuts under the rain tray

      now repeat on the other side and then install the coilover or spring/struts.

      Front Torque #'s
      3 mounting bolts for upper strut mount 15Nm/11ft-lb +1/4 turn or 90 degrees
      Strut nut 60Nm/44ft-lb
      3 bolts, ball joint to control arm 60Nm/44ft-lb
      Front sway bar end link 65Nm/48ft-lb
      Lower Strut 70Nm/52ft-bl +1/4 turn or 90 degrees
      6point axle bolt 120Nm/90ft-lb
      Revised 12point axle bolt 70ft-lb

      i haven't had a chance to take pix of the rear but its pretty strait forward

      i have a video i made with my iphone but i need to edit+ upload it still, something i have no experience with so bare with me
      Last edited by ShadowWabbit; 06-13-2010 at 10:08 PM.
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    2. Member Track5tar's Avatar
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      06-13-2010 02:23 AM #2
      This could help when i do my passat in a few weeks

      Nice work man!

    3. Member RPF1's Avatar
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      06-13-2010 04:24 AM #3
      removing the axle bolt isn't really necessary....
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    4. Member
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      06-13-2010 07:17 AM #4
      Quote Originally Posted by RPF1 View Post
      removing the axle bolt isn't really necessary....
      X2 I have done 8 installs now and have never removed an axle bolt.

    5. Member schmoopy's Avatar
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      06-13-2010 09:15 AM #5
      I know its not needed to remove the axle bolt, but if you are having problems getting the strut to wiggle out, I would def pull the bolt and undo the lower ball joint from the lower control arm. If you cant get it out at that point, you might wanna take it to a pro

    6. Member schkyl01's Avatar
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      06-13-2010 02:17 PM #6
      eurosociety.webs.com

    7. Member ShadowWabbit's Avatar
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      2007 Rabbit (RIP), 2010 CC VR6 3.6 4motion
      06-13-2010 10:12 PM #7
      Quote Originally Posted by RPF1 View Post
      removing the axle bolt isn't really necessary....
      true, but not everyone knows that method
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    8. Junior Member
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      06-14-2010 08:50 PM #8
      do the coilovers come with there own dust boot or did you use the oem on?

    9. Member ShadowWabbit's Avatar
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      2007 Rabbit (RIP), 2010 CC VR6 3.6 4motion
      06-15-2010 12:18 PM #9
      I use the rear oem dust boot and cut the bumpstops in half
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    10. Member dirtygmc's Avatar
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      06-16-2010 05:57 PM #10
      instead of a new thread I thought I'd ask it here.

      How did you torque down the nut at the end of the strut (the 44ft-lbs one)? I cant seem to get it torqued properly without my allen wrench twisting. I tried using vice grips but the shaft is still twisting. Any tips?

    11. Member ShadowWabbit's Avatar
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      2007 Rabbit (RIP), 2010 CC VR6 3.6 4motion
      06-17-2010 09:32 AM #11
      See my first pic, the one with me tightening the strut mount to the strut. use the 21/22mm double socket with the Allen thu it and the torque wrench connected to the double socket. It looks/sounds tricky but it's easy. FYI, the torque wrench stays at a 90 degree angle to the double socket
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    12. Member PharmmerBen's Avatar
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      06-22-2010 09:48 PM #12
      Quote Originally Posted by RPF1 View Post
      removing the axle bolt isn't really necessary....
      Shadow: Thank you for the writeup. Very much appreciated.

      Could someone please explain the method of NOT removing the axle bolt?

      Ben

    13. Member ShadowWabbit's Avatar
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      06-22-2010 10:15 PM #13
      Quote Originally Posted by PharmmerBen View Post
      Shadow: Thank you for the writeup. Very much appreciated.

      Could someone please explain the method of NOT removing the axle bolt?

      Ben
      going off memory, so someone correct me if im wrong:

      with both front wheels on jack stands. if you disconnect the front sway bar on both sides and remove the lower strut bolt (the one where u use a spreader) u can then use a long bar to push the wheel bearing housing down and off the strut. lots of anti-rust spray with lube would be recommended since mine wouldnt come out, but i didnt try very hard

      something like that i believe. either way, you save about 30min.
      Last edited by ShadowWabbit; 06-22-2010 at 10:19 PM.
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    14. Member PharmmerBen's Avatar
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      06-23-2010 10:02 PM #14
      Thanks very much Wabbit! Very helpful.

      Ben

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