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    Thread: MKIV Ignition Coil Wiring Harness Replacement ---- DIY

    1. Member BassNotes's Avatar
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      10-27-2010 06:27 PM #36
      Quote Originally Posted by hidalgo13 View Post
      I decided to rewire my coilpack harness and everything went smoothly and i got all the connectors in the right spot and under the right number and my car starts and runs smoothly but the when i push the gas nothing happens and i cant seem to figure out where i went wrong. Please help!
      Is your EPC warning light on?
      Bob Lee
      2002 GTI 1.8t 241,000+ miles
      VCDS 12.12.2 with KEY-USB interface

    2. n00b pmaseVW's Avatar
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      10-27-2010 08:45 PM #37
      I definitely understand the needed patience component. 12 hours of tinkering with pins is patience; why did VW feel it was necessary to have two barbs on each pin, rather than one?

      oh well, after tomorrow I should have it all wrapped up.

    3. Member swishersweets59's Avatar
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      10-27-2010 08:53 PM #38
      Quote Originally Posted by hidalgo13 View Post
      I decided to rewire my coilpack harness and everything went smoothly and i got all the connectors in the right spot and under the right number and my car starts and runs smoothly but the when i push the gas nothing happens and i cant seem to figure out where i went wrong. Please help!
      it sounds like a throttle body problem to me.....

    4. 10-30-2010 03:16 AM #39
      I think i might have possible figured out where i went wrong but i will have to let you know tomorrow but pretty much the car was turning on starting up and idling fine, didn't start up today when i tried but when it did it would idle and then no throttle response at all

    5. Member Henni's Avatar
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      10-30-2010 08:07 AM #40
      My crank position sensor caused similar problems

    6. n00b pmaseVW's Avatar
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      10-31-2010 11:37 PM #41
      If you end up in my shoes, heres some info on what to do.


      I obtained from my local dealer some wired terminals, both small and large. I used these to splice into the existing wires I cut from the connector (since I couldn't release the pins). Make sure you have a good handle on soldering before you try this.

      First start by stripping the insulation from the wires to be spliced together. Make you sure you slip some heat shrink wrap over one wire before you solder them:



      Next you want to solder the wires, make sure its a good clean solder and you don't have excess raosin glopped all over:



      Then slip the heat shrink over so there isn't any copper wire exposed. Use your girlfriend's hair dryer to heat ( I used 1/8 inch dia.):




      Afterwards I wrapped all the wires, put everything back in its' right place...ignition go, and no more misfires! Good to get my dub back on the road

    7. Semi-n00b torken's Avatar
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      01-24-2011 04:32 PM #42
      Yea wat a great write up!

      It was a lot easier for me than i thought! The only problem i had was getting the damn pins out of course. I ended up getting some sewing needles and hammering them down then it was a breeze!!

      My coil-pack wires were so messed up and the misfires were just ridiculous. It took me probably 35 hours to complete(have a 1 month old child, it's cold and gets dark fast) and now my car runs so smooth.

      Thanks a bunch for this DIY

      love it

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      03-06-2011 12:09 PM #43
      Quote Originally Posted by swishersweets59 View Post
      hope it helps out. let me know if you have any questions when you do yours.
      I am removing my coilpack harness and encountered some problems, from what I see in your DIY, I assume you did it on manual transmission, I have a auto transmission and my harness came from ECS Tuning and looks like manual, even the numbered pins do not match with numbers on connectors, is there anyway that this harness can still be used?
      I have 2 extra connectors on the harness that I don't need, I found a very small wire that separate from the harness and probably goes to crank speed sensor( not sure yet as I haven't followed it all the way) my new harness at the end has 8 wires, the old one looks like has one wire less I am trying to post some pictures.
      http://i723.photobucket.com/albums/w...g?t=1299430594
      http://i723.photobucket.com/albums/w...g?t=1299430755
      http://i723.photobucket.com/albums/w...g?t=1299430885
      http://i723.photobucket.com/albums/w...g?t=1299431023
      http://i723.photobucket.com/albums/w...g?t=1299431120

      http://i723.photobucket.com/albums/w...g?t=1299431224

      Absolutely the old harness needed to go.

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      03-06-2011 12:36 PM #44
      Quote Originally Posted by Balomo41 View Post
      I am removing my coilpack harness and encountered some problems, from what I see in your DIY, I assume you did it on manual transmission, I have a auto transmission and my harness came from ECS Tuning and looks like manual, even the numbered pins do not match with numbers on connectors, is there anyway that this harness can still be used?
      I have 2 extra connectors on the harness that I don't need, I found a very small wire that separate from the harness and probably goes to crank speed sensor( not sure yet as I haven't followed it all the way) my new harness at the end has 8 wires, the old one looks like has one wire less I am trying to post some pictures.
      This.

      I've got the same deal (5sp Tip + harness 1J0971658L from ECS) and I've been holding off installing it for the same reason. If you get it sorted out or hear anything, shoot me a message...I'd appreciate it.

    10. Member swishersweets59's Avatar
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      03-06-2011 01:22 PM #45
      Quote Originally Posted by Balomo41 View Post
      I am removing my coilpack harness and encountered some problems, from what I see in your DIY, I assume you did it on manual transmission, I have a auto transmission and my harness came from ECS Tuning and looks like manual, even the numbered pins do not match with numbers on connectors, is there anyway that this harness can still be used?
      I have 2 extra connectors on the harness that I don't need, I found a very small wire that separate from the harness and probably goes to crank speed sensor( not sure yet as I haven't followed it all the way) my new harness at the end has 8 wires, the old one looks like has one wire less.
      Yes you use the same harness for the automatic as you do for the manual, you just have to make a few modifications before you do the install. I will add this to the DIY as soon as I can but here are the additional steps you must take.

      If you have an automatic 2002 1.8t you will not need the speed sensor connector and you need to cut and tape back the wire where it branches out from the rest of the harness. In addition, you will not need pins 2 and 3 that go to the 14-pin connector located on the wall next to the battery. Again cut these and tape them back as you see fit.

      You will only need to replace pin 7 on the 14-pin connector. (Which is why you cut off pins 2 and 3)

      Those should be the only differences. Now the 2001 automatic transmission is different. If you have an 01' let me know and I can make sure you are doing that right as well.

      Again I will add this to the complete DIY as soon as I can.

      Let me know if you have any other questions.

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      03-06-2011 01:56 PM #46
      Quote Originally Posted by swishersweets59 View Post
      Yes you use the same harness for the automatic as you do for the manual, you just have to make a few modifications before you do the install. I will add this to the DIY as soon as I can but here are the additional steps you must take.

      If you have an automatic 2002 1.8t you will not need the speed sensor connector and you need to cut and tape back the wire where it branches out from the rest of the harness. In addition, you will not need pins 2 and 3 that go to the 14-pin connector located on the wall next to the battery. Again cut these and tape them back as you see fit.

      You will only need to replace pin 7 on the 14-pin connector. (Which is why you cut off pins 2 and 3)

      Those should be the only differences. Now the 2001 automatic transmission is different. If you have an 01' let me know and I can make sure you are doing that right as well.

      Again I will add this to the complete DIY as soon as I can.

      Let me know if you have any other questions.
      what about the other end that goes to ECU that numbers do not match? could I just follow colrs of wires and assume that they will match and some are a bit diferent color?

    12. Member swishersweets59's Avatar
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      03-06-2011 02:19 PM #47
      You should have to change pins 94, 95, 102, 103, 121 on the ECU. What pins were your original harness connected to?
      Last edited by swishersweets59; 03-06-2011 at 02:59 PM.

    13. Member
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      03-06-2011 06:10 PM #48
      I have 2002 auto, I figured it out, on the ECU end the pins split into two diferent connectors, one black and the other white, those are pins 94 and 95 go in one conector, 102 and 103 go in onether conector, and then pin 121 goes in the big black conector. had no trubles extracting them except for the pin 7 ground wire that I had to solder to the original one.

    14. Member swishersweets59's Avatar
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      03-06-2011 06:23 PM #49
      Quote Originally Posted by Balomo41 View Post
      I have 2002 auto, I figured it out, on the ECU end the pins split into two diferent connectors, one black and the other white, those are pins 94 and 95 go in one conector, 102 and 103 go in onether conector, and then pin 121 goes in the big black conector. had no trubles extracting them except for the pin 7 ground wire that I had to solder to the original one.
      Good to hear! Glad you were able to figure it out.

    15. Member J-tec's Avatar
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      03-12-2011 10:19 PM #50
      I'm about to attempt this in a few days, any thoughts before I do it? Read your whole write-up, great stuff man, I feel pretty confident having this and VW's mechnic install documentation on this. I've been having misfire issues forEVER, and when the crazy hesitation/misfire's started happening under partial throttle, I knew it was time.


    16. Member swishersweets59's Avatar
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      03-13-2011 12:14 AM #51
      Quote Originally Posted by J-tec View Post
      I'm about to attempt this in a few days, any thoughts before I do it? Read your whole write-up, great stuff man, I feel pretty confident having this and VW's mechnic install documentation on this. I've been having misfire issues forEVER, and when the crazy hesitation/misfire's started happening under partial throttle, I knew it was time.

      Thank you for the cold ones.

      The VW mechanic documentation is helpful but their fix just calls for a harness overlay and that is really what prompted me to go all the way and do the full replacement. VW decided to take a shortcut instead of putting in the work to run an entire new harness. TYPICAL.

      If you have access to a terminal pick set like the one from ECS tuning this job will be a breeze. I just couldn't justify spending $60 on a kit I would only be using for this application. Other than that definitely jack up the car to get under and release the speed senor connector, there is no use trying to get at it from the top and wasting time and then having the possibility of breaking the connector.

      If you have any other questions during the install I would be happy to answer them. Thank again and cheers.

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      03-13-2011 01:52 PM #52
      When I changed my coilpack harness, I had one issue of the car not starting, had the vagcom code 16705 Engine speed sensor (g28) P0321 I suspected the crank position sensor swaped one from another engine, no luck, bought one from VW $160 and found that it was too expensive, ordered a used one from Ebay, now on the car, still no start.a new one from ECS tuning comes tomorrow eveing.$81 OEM
      I scanned again today and found these codes: 16706 Engine speed sensor (G28) no signal
      16705 Engine speed sensor ( G28) implausible signal
      16622 Manifold pressure/Boost sensor ( G31) Signal too high
      17072 ECM power relay load circuit ( J271) Open circuit
      16497 Intake air Temp Sensor (G42) Signal too high
      16502 Engine coolant temp sensor (G62) Signal too high.
      I am sure I did everything correct in regard to changing the coilpack harness, but even before I changed the harness I had some DTC pertaining to no start.
      The thing I think of is the Mani Pressure regulator sensor wich came back after I changed the harness, a couple of weeks ago I changed turbo, and everything went Ok, but I could hear the hissing sound under acceleration, I don't know if that was related to the MAP sensor dying.
      When I push the gas pedal, it feels empty.
      I cleared the codes and the 16622 code( Mani Pressure/Boost sensor) remains.
      could someone help?

    18. Member swishersweets59's Avatar
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      03-13-2011 02:19 PM #53
      Quote Originally Posted by Balomo41 View Post
      When I changed my coilpack harness, I had one issue of the car not starting, had the vagcom code 16705 Engine speed sensor (g28) P0321 I suspected the crank position sensor swaped one from another engine, no luck, bought one from VW $160 and found that it was too expensive, ordered a used one from Ebay, now on the car, still no start.a new one from ECS tuning comes tomorrow eveing.$81 OEM
      I scanned again today and found these codes: 16706 Engine speed sensor (G28) no signal
      16705 Engine speed sensor ( G28) implausible signal
      16622 Manifold pressure/Boost sensor ( G31) Signal too high
      17072 ECM power relay load circuit ( J271) Open circuit
      16497 Intake air Temp Sensor (G42) Signal too high
      16502 Engine coolant temp sensor (G62) Signal too high.
      I am sure I did everything correct in regard to changing the coilpack harness, but even before I changed the harness I had some DTC pertaining to no start.
      The thing I think of is the Mani Pressure regulator sensor wich came back after I changed the harness, a couple of weeks ago I changed turbo, and everything went Ok, but I could hear the hissing sound under acceleration, I don't know if that was related to the MAP sensor dying.
      When I push the gas pedal, it feels empty.
      I cleared the codes and the 16622 code( Mani Pressure/Boost sensor) remains.
      could someone help?
      Could you post a full auto scan of your codes? I'll look into the others in the meantime.

    19. Member BassNotes's Avatar
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      03-13-2011 03:31 PM #54
      Quote Originally Posted by Balomo41 View Post
      When I changed my coilpack harness, I had one issue of the car not starting, had the vagcom code 16705 Engine speed sensor (g28) P0321 I suspected the crank position sensor swaped one from another engine, no luck, bought one from VW $160 and found that it was too expensive, ordered a used one from Ebay, now on the car, still no start.a new one from ECS tuning comes tomorrow eveing.$81 OEM
      I scanned again today and found these codes: 16706 Engine speed sensor (G28) no signal
      16705 Engine speed sensor ( G28) implausible signal
      16622 Manifold pressure/Boost sensor ( G31) Signal too high
      17072 ECM power relay load circuit ( J271) Open circuit
      16497 Intake air Temp Sensor (G42) Signal too high
      16502 Engine coolant temp sensor (G62) Signal too high.
      I am sure I did everything correct in regard to changing the coilpack harness, but even before I changed the harness I had some DTC pertaining to no start.
      The thing I think of is the Mani Pressure regulator sensor wich came back after I changed the harness, a couple of weeks ago I changed turbo, and everything went Ok, but I could hear the hissing sound under acceleration, I don't know if that was related to the MAP sensor dying.
      When I push the gas pedal, it feels empty.
      I cleared the codes and the 16622 code( Mani Pressure/Boost sensor) remains.
      could someone help?
      Did you have problems with the engine speed sensor before you did the ignition harness?
      Bob Lee
      2002 GTI 1.8t 241,000+ miles
      VCDS 12.12.2 with KEY-USB interface

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      03-14-2011 09:47 PM #55
      the Speed sensor issue was the first thing I had when The car stopped startin' .the other few codes I got that same time were Vag 16487 P0103 intake system for leak, Maf airflor sensor, this sensor is nearly new. 17705 connection turbocharger, throttle valve pressure hose/ vacuum hose setup.

      having this code of P0103 prompted me to order a Map sensor because when I start the car, push the gas pedal down and it feels empty.( I don't know if this sensor would cause a no start) all other codes are nothing they just came after I changed the ignition harness, and when you have one thing wrong everything else seem to be wrong when are not a problem.

    21. Member Henni's Avatar
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      03-14-2011 10:42 PM #56
      Quote Originally Posted by Balomo41 View Post
      When I changed my coilpack harness, I had one issue of the car not starting, had the vagcom code 16705 Engine speed sensor (g28) P0321 I suspected the crank position sensor swaped one from another engine, no luck, bought one from VW $160 and found that it was too expensive, ordered a used one from Ebay, now on the car, still no start.a new one from ECS tuning comes tomorrow eveing.$81 OEM
      Never get a used Crank Sensor. I can understand 100% it might save you money and we all love to save money and even utilize a used part over a new one due to what we can afford at the time. I would only suggest to do a new CPS and not a used one due to the used one might possibly fail on you. Replace it w/ a new one. I picked up a CPS for about $105.00 USD. It seemed to fail after I did my wiring harness. Who knows, could have been the timing of the fact I just replaced my harness. But on things like this you really don't want to use a "used" part. That part could just crap out on you or just be defective from the start.

      Quote Originally Posted by Balomo41 View Post
      before I changed the harness I had some DTC pertaining to no start. A couple of weeks ago I changed turbo, and everything went Ok, but I could hear the hissing sound under acceleration, I don't know if that was related to the MAP sensor dying. When I push the gas pedal, it feels empty. I cleared the codes and the 16622 code( Mani Pressure/Boost sensor) remains. could someone help?
      If you had some DTC codes prior to the swap out of the wiring harness you could have other issues. You stated that you changed your turbo. Are you sure that everything is tightened up and that there are no leaks? If you are hearing a "hissing" sound then there could either be a VAC. leak or something is loose. The turbo systems on our cars are so damn touchy. If you get a VAC. leak the car will throw codes and run like poop. Look back on what work you did w/ changing out the turbo and check over everything. All VAC lines. Check, check and recheck everything.
      Quote Originally Posted by Mikedav
      Gee Whiz electric car. Hateful pile of turd which should be banished from humanity for eternity.)

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      03-19-2011 01:21 PM #57
      Ok, now the brand new crank position sensor is installed, still no luck. I checked my ECU, disconnected and reconnected, cleared the codes, tried some starts, not start at all and vagcommed again and no code showed up, this morning, took out all plugs, sprayed a little bit of Carb cleaner in each of the four cyrender, put back plugs and coils, tried to start, it seemed almost to start but quikly died, and I saw some smoke coming out of the dash smelled like a burned out fuse, I checked all fuses are Ok,this is my last scan after that smoke came out.

      VCDS Version: Release 10.6.3
      Data version: 20101206

      Saturday,19,March,2011,12:05:41:53974

      Chassis Type: 1J - VW Golf/Bora IV
      Scan: 01 02 03 08 15 16 17 19 22 29 35 36 37 39 46 47 55 56 57 75
      76

      VIN: 9BWDE61J424017222 Mileage: 210390km/130730miles
      -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
      Address 01: Engine Labels: 06A-906-032-AWP.lbl
      Part No: 06A 906 032 HF
      Component: 1.8L R4/5VT G 0005
      Coding: 07550
      Shop #: WSC 77873
      VCID: 69C4A99B39FF
      9BWDE61J424017222 VWZ7Z0A3887875

      1 Fault Found:
      16705 - Engine Speed Sensor (G28): Implausible Signal
      P0321 - 35-00 - -
      Readiness: 0110 1101

      -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
      Address 02: Auto Trans Labels: 09A-927-750.lbl
      Part No: 09A 927 750 T
      Component: AG5 Getriebe 09A 0162
      VCID: 3C6A20CF06ED

      No fault code found.

      -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
      Address 03: ABS Brakes Labels: 1C0-907-37x-ASR.lbl
      Part No: 1C0 907 379 D
      Component: ASR FRONT MK60 0103
      Coding: 0021505
      Shop #: WSC 00000 785 00200
      VCID: 2B481393F383

      No fault code found.

      -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
      Address 15: Airbags Labels: 6Q0-909-605-VW5.lbl
      Part No: 6Q0 909 605 F
      Component: 08 AIRBAG VW6 0202 0004
      Coding: 12344
      Shop #: WSC 00000
      VCID: 3A6626D70CD9

      1 Fault Found:
      00532 - Supply Voltage B+
      07-10 - Signal too Low - Intermittent

      -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
      Address 17: Instruments Labels: 1J0-920-xx5-17.lbl
      Part No: 1J0 920 906 N
      Component: KOMBI+WEGFAHRSP VDO V02
      Coding: 07234
      Shop #: WSC 00000
      VCID: 33780BF32BB3
      9BWDE61J424017222 VWZ7Z0A3887875

      1 Fault Found:
      01304 - Radio
      49-00 - No Communications

      -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
      Address 19: CAN Gateway Labels: 6N0-909-901-19.lbl
      Part No: 6N0 909 901
      Component: Gateway K<->CAN 0001
      Coding: 00006
      Shop #: WSC 00000
      VCID: F0F244FF9A25

      1 Fault Found:
      01304 - Radio
      49-00 - No Communications

      -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
      Address 46: Central Conv. Labels: 1C0-959-799.lbl
      Part No: 1C0 959 799 C
      Component: 1J Komfortgerát HLO 0003
      Coding: 00064
      Shop #: WSC 00000
      VCID: 37603FE33FCB

      Part No: 1C1959801A
      Component: 1J Tõrsteuer.FS KLO 0002

      Part No: 1C1959802A
      Component: 1J Tõrsteuer.BF KLO 0002

      4 Faults Found:
      00928 - Locking Module for Central Locking; Front Driver Side (F220)
      54-10 - Incorrectly Equipped - Intermittent
      00929 - Locking Module for Central Locking; Front Passenger Side (F221)
      54-10 - Incorrectly Equipped - Intermittent
      01330 - Central Control Module for Central Convenience (J393)
      37-00 - Faulty
      01359 - Internal Central Locking Switch; Passenger Side (E198)
      27-10 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent

      End ---------------------------------------------------------------------

      Coul this be leading to a bad connection somewhere, or is it a bad ECU?

    23. Member BassNotes's Avatar
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      03-19-2011 01:42 PM #58
      Quote Originally Posted by Balomo41 View Post
      Could this be leading to a bad connection somewhere, or is it a bad ECU?
      It could be either. A bad connection is more likely (and less expensive to fix), so it's worthwhile to check for first.
      Bob Lee
      2002 GTI 1.8t 241,000+ miles
      VCDS 12.12.2 with KEY-USB interface

    24. Member swishersweets59's Avatar
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      03-19-2011 09:32 PM #59
      Are you sure you speed sensor isn't bad? Have you tried replacing it?

      http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-...Sensor/ES8539/

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      03-20-2011 09:03 AM #60
      Quote Originally Posted by swishersweets59 View Post
      Are you sure you speed sensor isn't bad? Have you tried replacing it?

      http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-...Sensor/ES8539/
      Yes the speed sensor now I have is new from ECS Tuning, but most dominant code that keeps showing up is tied to speed sensor (G28) my car was due inspection last month and registration this month, and this no start is causing me to worry. I found another engine harness at ECS Tuning that has all connectors including coilpack connectors and all sensors connectors. I don't know when it will come for ECS is slow in processing purchase and shipping. but it would be here in less than 2 weeks.
      Any thought?

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      03-26-2011 01:48 PM #61
      It seems now that I have to turn in my plate to avoid Inspection overdue fee charge, until I fix the problem, for it is better to pay county tax than to pay state emission inspection past due.
      Today I took out starter to test if it it is faulty, I took it to Adavance auto part to be checked and they said it is good, but when I put it to battery for testing I found out that it spins only and shaft with teeth does not go forward to engage the flywheel.
      this is how my starter look like.

      http://i723.photobucket.com/albums/w...g?t=1301161180

      http://i723.photobucket.com/albums/w...g?t=1301161299
      The test I used a battery off the car direct to the starter, one end of cable ( negatif ti the body of the starter and pos to copper end that lead into the starter while the other end of cable was to Pos and Neg of the battery. the starter did spin but I did not see any forward movement of the shaft toward the end of starter where teeth meet with the flywheel, and I mesured the lenght of where the teeth are on starter is short in relation to the flywheel.

    27. Member swishersweets59's Avatar
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      03-27-2011 02:42 PM #62
      If it isn't engaging I would say it is time for a new starter. I have no experience with fixing starters so if you wanted to try to go that route you would have to ask around. You should be able to get a refurbished starter for cheaper than a new one but they are still expensive I believe
      Last edited by swishersweets59; 03-27-2011 at 02:44 PM.

    28. Member BassNotes's Avatar
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      03-27-2011 11:19 PM #63
      Quote Originally Posted by swishersweets59 View Post
      If it isn't engaging I would say it is time for a new starter. I have no experience with fixing starters so if you wanted to try to go that route you would have to ask around. You should be able to get a refurbished starter for cheaper than a new one but they are still expensive I believe
      Bob Lee
      2002 GTI 1.8t 241,000+ miles
      VCDS 12.12.2 with KEY-USB interface

    29. Junior Member
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      01GTI 1.8t- revo stg3+t28 turbo+440 f.i. +fmic+hks ssq bov+stge 1clutch+tt shifter+light flyweel+bbs
      03-29-2011 03:47 AM #64
      good post . i have a harness im picking up at the local dealer manana, and this helps alot . Its a much more involved install than i assumed and now i'm debating whether i should have the dealer do it . they quoted me 275 $ for the labor. my current harness is tweaked . and i wonder how i could really insulate the new one to protect from heat . any suggestions ?

    30. Member swishersweets59's Avatar
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      03-29-2011 08:10 PM #65
      Quote Originally Posted by 9ineballer View Post
      good post . i have a harness im picking up at the local dealer manana, and this helps alot . Its a much more involved install than i assumed and now i'm debating whether i should have the dealer do it . they quoted me 275 $ for the labor. my current harness is tweaked . and i wonder how i could really insulate the new one to protect from heat . any suggestions ?
      http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Elec..._Tape/ES10764/
      this^

    31. Member
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      04-06-2011 10:11 PM #66
      if the dealer can instal it for that sum, I think it is worth, I installed a new engine wiring harness,( more easy than replacing the coilpack harness) but had some truble, the oil lever sensor light is flashing, and I checked it is plugged. I used this harness.
      http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-...ness/ES279860/
      on a 2002 VW GTI 1.8 T auto transmission.
      What you do does not matter, how you do it does.

    32. Member XClayX's Avatar
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      01-16-2012 11:18 PM #67
      Just finished this for my 2001 Jetta 1.8t WE 5spd. Total about 4hrs of work, 2 days of desperately looking for tools. I HIGHLY recommend getting the proper tool for the electrical connector next to the battery. We were able to safety pin it apart at the ECU but the connector by the battery was destroyed by the foreign objects we stuck in there. 45 Dollar part special order from VW, or 15 from ECStuning plus shipping...

      About tools. There is no where local in Osseo MN to get VW electrical tools.
      VW Dealer: They won't help you. Told us they don't sell tools, search the internet.
      Napa: Said they had it, but it was a GM tool.
      Oreilly: Said they had it, but wasn't correct.
      Autozone: Said no.
      Grainger: Tried HARD to get us the part but couldn't find the proper tool.
      Matco: Had the part in a catalog, special order 1 wk. 90-180 dollars.
      Snap On: "insert 1hr drive" had the tool, show up, not right... Would order the correct 120 dollar tool (ONE TOOL). 1 wk wait.
      Fleet Farm: lol, nope.
      Radio Shack: Not even close.
      MG Lock Smith: Thinking skyrim at this point...
      Jo Ann Fabric: You read it right... They had needles that worked pretty freaking well, better then anything the auto stores came up with.
      Machine shop for old scribs and deburing tools.

      Also these found at home.
      .025 Welding wire.
      Paper Clips
      Braid Nails
      Bobby Pin

      In the end... Home Depot came to the rescue. We said screw it and got some 18-22 crimp connectors "red" and rebuild the wiring harness next to the battery. NOTE: NOT ALL WIRES ARE USED. You'll see once you look at both harnesses, x number on one harness and few more then x on the other. Just go by numbers if you need to rebuild it. i.e. 1 to 1, crimp, tape, next one. ect... NOTE: Wires change colors depending on the side of the bracket, which is why you need to use the numbers and keep track, 1 to 1 and 2 to 2 ect.

      Homedepot made bracket 8 bucks.
      VW bracket 50+ then you need to source the mini pin connectors.

      I also recommend taking your time. Feed the new coil pack harness along the old one, carefully follow the wires. Disassemble using your fingers so you don't split the huge pile of wires. Its VERY easy to mix the wires up, as you take the old one out, mark it, fold twist ect as old. then wire up the new one and move on. Keep Organized!

      Conclusion, either get the correct tool or have a plan B when things go south. I recommend Homedepot for your plan B. Plan a weekend for this, as I mentioned before its about a solid 4 hours of work if everything goes perfect and is very organized.

      This DYI helped out greatly. Grab a friend and some tasty drinks. The car went from super misfire hard start to a very healthy burnout "unexpected", it was smooth and responsive. The old wiring harness was horrible.

    33. Member toby lawrence's Avatar
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      ms3 zoom zoom
      01-17-2012 09:53 AM #68
      Quote Originally Posted by XClayX View Post
      Just finished this for my 2001 Jetta 1.8t WE 5spd. Total about 4hrs of work, 2 days of desperately looking for tools. I HIGHLY recommend getting the proper tool for the electrical connector next to the battery. We were able to safety pin it apart at the ECU but the connector by the battery was destroyed by the foreign objects we stuck in there. 45 Dollar part special order from VW, or 15 from ECStuning plus shipping...

      About tools. There is no where local in Osseo MN to get VW electrical tools.
      VW Dealer: They won't help you. Told us they don't sell tools, search the internet.
      Napa: Said they had it, but it was a GM tool.
      Oreilly: Said they had it, but wasn't correct.
      Autozone: Said no.
      Grainger: Tried HARD to get us the part but couldn't find the proper tool.
      Matco: Had the part in a catalog, special order 1 wk. 90-180 dollars.
      Snap On: "insert 1hr drive" had the tool, show up, not right... Would order the correct 120 dollar tool (ONE TOOL). 1 wk wait.
      Fleet Farm: lol, nope.
      Radio Shack: Not even close.
      MG Lock Smith: Thinking skyrim at this point...
      Jo Ann Fabric: You read it right... They had needles that worked pretty freaking well, better then anything the auto stores came up with.
      Machine shop for old scribs and deburing tools.

      Also these found at home.
      .025 Welding wire.
      Paper Clips
      Braid Nails
      Bobby Pin

      In the end... Home Depot came to the rescue. We said screw it and got some 18-22 crimp connectors "red" and rebuild the wiring harness next to the battery. NOTE: NOT ALL WIRES ARE USED. You'll see once you look at both harnesses, x number on one harness and few more then x on the other. Just go by numbers if you need to rebuild it. i.e. 1 to 1, crimp, tape, next one. ect... NOTE: Wires change colors depending on the side of the bracket, which is why you need to use the numbers and keep track, 1 to 1 and 2 to 2 ect.

      Homedepot made bracket 8 bucks.
      VW bracket 50+ then you need to source the mini pin connectors.

      I also recommend taking your time. Feed the new coil pack harness along the old one, carefully follow the wires. Disassemble using your fingers so you don't split the huge pile of wires. Its VERY easy to mix the wires up, as you take the old one out, mark it, fold twist ect as old. then wire up the new one and move on. Keep Organized!

      Conclusion, either get the correct tool or have a plan B when things go south. I recommend Homedepot for your plan B. Plan a weekend for this, as I mentioned before its about a solid 4 hours of work if everything goes perfect and is very organized.

      This DYI helped out greatly. Grab a friend and some tasty drinks. The car went from super misfire hard start to a very healthy burnout "unexpected", it was smooth and responsive. The old wiring harness was horrible.
      It can be even easier than that. Here are the things you need to remember:

      - you need the pin extraction tool otherwise this is a pain in the ass
      - the 10 pin connector near the battery has a purple piece inside that slides side-to-side IIRC, which locks the terminals even if you use the pin extraction tool. toggle it to the other side thennnn try using your tool to extract the pins
      - the replacement harness has each pin tagged with a position in the connector.... so you can just rip out the original crap and lay down the new harness and wrap it right back up
      - by a roll of the 3M Scotch self-fusing tape to rewrap the sections of the harness you split open.. which if you're doing this right, is everything from near the front of the block back to the ECU connector itself
      science: it's for real.

    34. Member BassNotes's Avatar
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      01-17-2012 06:02 PM #69
      Quote Originally Posted by tobz@postreleased View Post
      It can be even easier than that. Here are the things you need to remember:

      - you need the pin extraction tool otherwise this is a pain in the ass
      - the 10 pin connector near the battery has a purple piece inside that slides side-to-side IIRC, which locks the terminals even if you use the pin extraction tool. toggle it to the other side thennnn try using your tool to extract the pins
      - the replacement harness has each pin tagged with a position in the connector.... so you can just rip out the original crap and lay down the new harness and wrap it right back up
      - by a roll of the 3M Scotch self-fusing tape to rewrap the sections of the harness you split open.. which if you're doing this right, is everything from near the front of the block back to the ECU connector itself
      on all that. The 3M self-fusing tape is Scotch 23.
      Bob Lee
      2002 GTI 1.8t 241,000+ miles
      VCDS 12.12.2 with KEY-USB interface

    35. Member swishersweets59's Avatar
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      Mar 20th, 2009
      Location
      Peoria, AZ
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      2002 VW Jetta 1.8t GLS
      01-17-2012 06:24 PM #70
      Thanks everyone for all of the input. I'm planning on editing and cleaning up the start of the DIY to encourage people to buy the extraction tools ahead of time and add helpful tips for those in the future.

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