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    VWVortex


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    Thread: replacing valve guides

    1. 06-13-2010 09:33 PM #1
      so apparently i need new valve guides in the head I bought used on here, a head that was supposed to be ready to swap in. Anyways, anyone know where to buy them, and how much a machine shop would charge to replace them?

    2. 06-13-2010 10:10 PM #2
      ok i found them pretty easily on multiple sites, im not sure why I couldnt find them before. And they dont look like they are pressed in, The machine shop told me they were. Maybe I should find a different machine shop. Anyone know of any in S. Florida?

    3. Member Scotty_2.0's Avatar
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      06-13-2010 10:51 PM #3
      Quote Originally Posted by 98ginster View Post
      ok i found them pretty easily on multiple sites, im not sure why I couldnt find them before. And they dont look like they are pressed in, The machine shop told me they were. Maybe I should find a different machine shop. Anyone know of any in S. Florida?
      The valve guides are pressed in. Removing them can sometimes be a PITA and may require cutting rather than a simple air hammer. Installation is usually straight forward with a specially designed driver and an air hammer.
      /// VRSociety Member #298 /// bankrupt ///

    4. 06-14-2010 03:10 PM #4
      Ok, i saw what looked like threads on the guides in the pictures for the ones for sale online, thats why I didnt think they were pressed in. Does anyone know the approximate cost to have a machine shop replace them? The machine shop I went to didnt give me a price, they just said its expensive

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      06-14-2010 03:22 PM #5
      Quote Originally Posted by 98ginster View Post
      Ok, i saw what looked like threads on the guides in the pictures for the ones for sale online, thats why I didnt think they were pressed in. Does anyone know the approximate cost to have a machine shop replace them? The machine shop I went to didnt give me a price, they just said its expensive

      wtf? hhahah it's just expensive with no price



      people are lazy

    6. Member rhussjr's Avatar
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      06-14-2010 03:58 PM #6
      On average, most shops charge about $5-8 a guide to replace them. It is a simple process to remove them, just installing them can be tricky if the new guides do not have a lip on them.

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      06-15-2010 12:54 AM #7
      yeah, never trust the texers, all parts have some surprizes...

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      06-15-2010 11:11 AM #8
      I had new guides and valves installed (after chain broke) in ga and i spent a little under $600.

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      06-15-2010 11:33 AM #9
      If you plan to run anything but stock cams, the replacement guides need to be machined and then pressed to depth.
      -Paul
      1995 GTI VR6 - Retired - 12.90@106 R32 power - 12.833@106 12v power
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    10. 06-15-2010 02:00 PM #10
      yea i have a set of schrick 268's to put in. It seems like no one down here really does any work on these heads, especially for performance, so I feel kind of skeptical letting anyone work on it.

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      06-15-2010 07:49 PM #11
      Where in South Fl are you located? There are numerous good machine shops around.

    12. 06-16-2010 01:24 PM #12
      ft lauderdale, I'd like to find a flow bench also, since I did some mild porting on the head.

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      06-16-2010 05:22 PM #13
      You got PM.

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      06-18-2010 06:27 PM #14
      need_a_VR6

      If you plan to run anything but stock cams, the replacement guides need to be machined and then pressed to depth.
      is there any specs on the machining? are they cam specific?

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      06-18-2010 07:45 PM #15
      search some other makes forums in your area, most good machine shops don't really need to advertise, good work is word of mouth, especially true in the internet/forum era.........

    16. 06-29-2010 01:45 PM #16
      thanks for the replies. The head is at a well known shop over here in plantation, but they are asking me if I want to replace the guides, or do a ream/knurl job on them. Does the latter work for high lift cams or is that more for heads with stock internals?

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      06-29-2010 05:33 PM #17
      Quote Originally Posted by need_a_VR6 View Post
      If you plan to run anything but stock cams, the replacement guides need to be machined and then pressed to depth.
      need_a_VR6 If I am correct this only goes for high lift cams. Non agressive cams wont cause the valve retainer to bottom out into the valve guide seal. Did you run into some issues on your motors with crushed stem seals?

    18. 06-29-2010 10:58 PM #18
      im just going to tell them to do the new guides. They are telling me its going to need a valve job because the valve center will most likely change. Does this sound right? There was a 3 angle valve job already done not too long ago and would rather keep the $250 for other things.

    19. Member masterqaz's Avatar
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      06-29-2010 11:36 PM #19
      it is possible that the valve center will change due to the guide going in slighly off from what they were.

    20. Member vwscream's Avatar
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      06-30-2010 09:38 AM #20
      Quote Originally Posted by 98ginster View Post
      im just going to tell them to do the new guides. They are telling me its going to need a valve job because the valve center will most likely change. Does this sound right? There was a 3 angle valve job already done not too long ago and would rather keep the $250 for other things.
      How do you know that the head needs valve guides? The last 8v head I got on vortex was said to need valve guide and I found that the seal was bad.

    21. 06-30-2010 11:18 AM #21
      Thats what numerous people said since the valves had so much play in the guides, it was also leaking but like you said it could be just the seals

    22. Geriatric Member need_a_VR6's Avatar
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      06-30-2010 12:12 PM #22
      Quote Originally Posted by vwscream View Post
      need_a_VR6 If I am correct this only goes for high lift cams. Non agressive cams wont cause the valve retainer to bottom out into the valve guide seal. Did you run into some issues on your motors with crushed stem seals?
      Yes, tried using 'as is' replacement guides and wasted all 12 stem seals. Machined the lip off new guides, installed, fixed.

      For anything but STOCK rebuilds, do the guide mods.
      -Paul
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    23. Member vwscream's Avatar
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      06-30-2010 02:56 PM #23
      Quote Originally Posted by need_a_VR6 View Post
      Yes, tried using 'as is' replacement guides and wasted all 12 stem seals. Machined the lip off new guides, installed, fixed.

      For anything but STOCK rebuilds, do the guide mods.
      I would be fine than with the autotech cams.

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      06-30-2010 03:43 PM #24
      ok just going to say this....

      guid is pressed in...
      to remove u need to clean it so that carbon dont harm the head.
      the punch/grill out
      pressed in
      then u need to reseat the valves because it will change the how the valve sits.

      now to tell ezly if u need to change the guid.

      get the valve out little bit jiggle it to see if it moves. if it does then yes u need to get new one. if it does not move or move next to nothing then dont worry.

    25. Member notldubber's Avatar
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      06-30-2010 03:56 PM #25
      I just had guides replaced aswell as had my valves polished and got the seats re-cut for 280 taxes in.

    26. Member ALLGORIMSHOW's Avatar
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      06-30-2010 10:51 PM #26
      Quote Originally Posted by notldubber View Post
      I just had guides replaced aswell as had my valves polished and got the seats re-cut for 280 taxes in.
      You really shouldn't cut/grind vr6 valve seats as it changes the flow characteristics in a bad way and moves the valves closer to the cam lobe, hand lap only. Tools needed are a 7mm guide punch, 7mm reamer but I prefer a guide hone for opening up the guides used for intake valves, valve lapping tool and compound. Head resurface can be done a with a flat bar and mid grit sandpaper, that's if the head is true and has been checked with a straight edge.

      Tips:
      I freeze/lube the guides and have the head at room temp before punching the guides in.
      If after lapping you don't have grinding marks 360* around the valve and seat the guide should be replaced with a new one.
      Deep 10mm socket works great for installing valve seals.
      Thick grease work great for holding valve keepers in the groove.
      FUITCK

      Quote Originally Posted by DAN16VG60 View Post
      Give. Me youre phone number. Him from. Montréal. Daniel. Hi havé question

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      07-01-2010 12:53 PM #27
      Quote Originally Posted by vwscream View Post
      I would be fine than with the autotech cams.
      I would cut the guides if you plan to use ANY aftermarket cam with more lift then stock.
      -Paul
      1995 GTI VR6 - Retired - 12.90@106 R32 power - 12.833@106 12v power
      KPTuned - Official MegaSquirt: Sales - Repair - Installation - Tuning
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    28. 07-01-2010 02:40 PM #28
      Quote Originally Posted by vwscream View Post
      I would be fine than with the autotech cams.
      you will not be fine with autotech cams. Autotech cams have a whole bunch more lift than stock cams.

      for anything other than stock cams, you must take the lip off and press them in.

      I crushed all my seals and will be redoing all 12 guides since i didn't listen to this when i did my head rebuild with autotech cams. may have even crushed a lifter.

    29. Member VR6ix's Avatar
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      07-01-2010 09:57 PM #29
      this kind of info should be FAQ'd

    30. Member dogyouare's Avatar
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      07-02-2010 10:53 AM #30
      Quote Originally Posted by ALLGORIMSHOW View Post
      You really shouldn't cut/grind vr6 valve seats as it changes the flow characteristics in a bad way and moves the valves closer to the cam lobe, hand lap only. Tools needed are a 7mm guide punch, 7mm reamer but I prefer a guide hone for opening up the guides used for intake valves, valve lapping tool and compound. Head resurface can be done a with a flat bar and mid grit sandpaper, that's if the head is true and has been checked with a straight edge.

      Tips:
      I freeze/lube the guides and have the head at room temp before punching the guides in.
      If after lapping you don't have grinding marks 360* around the valve and seat the guide should be replaced with a new one.
      Deep 10mm socket works great for installing valve seals.
      Thick grease work great for holding valve keepers in the groove.
      u have to re seat them!!!!! i just got mine done!!!!! and showed me why.. the geomotry changes little causeing little loss which is bad.

      it really ez to do. (reseat)

      take verylight sandling compound put it on the valve pop the valve back in the hole twist it side to side for some time get the valve out clean it off and claen the head off.

    31. Member vwscream's Avatar
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      07-02-2010 02:26 PM #31
      Quote Originally Posted by vwscream View Post
      I would be fine than with the autotech cams.
      Quote Originally Posted by need_a_VR6 View Post
      I would cut the guides if you plan to use ANY aftermarket cam with more lift then stock.
      Quote Originally Posted by all-starr-me View Post
      you will not be fine with autotech cams. Autotech cams have a whole bunch more lift than stock cams.

      for anything other than stock cams, you must take the lip off and press them in.

      I crushed all my seals and will be redoing all 12 guides since i didn't listen to this when i did my head rebuild with autotech cams. may have even crushed a lifter.
      The motor has been sititing in the chassis and only thing needed was a external oil cooler bracket to fire it up. I did not see this info anywhere when I was building the motor. The head has had the valve guides replaced so I don't know if there will be contact. At this point I would have to look at my photos.

    32. Member 92jetta9a's Avatar
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      07-02-2010 09:44 PM #32
      Quote Originally Posted by dogyouare View Post
      u have to re seat them!!!!! i just got mine done!!!!! and showed me why.. the geomotry changes little causeing little loss which is bad.

      it really ez to do. (reseat)

      take verylight sandling compound put it on the valve pop the valve back in the hole twist it side to side for some time get the valve out clean it off and claen the head off.

      You should stop while you are ahead....never mind.

      ALLGORIMSHOW has already said what you are trying to but you are using the wrong terminology.

      It's called lapping the valves.

      Good luck with posting your expertise.

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