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    Thread: Alex's '79 Rabbit Project!

    1. 06-29-2010 12:39 PM #36
      Do you have access to air tools?

      - air hammer on the thread end of the nut; or,

      - pickle fork (ball joint separator) between the nut head and the casing; or,

      - try to get a cut-off disk in there; or,

      - at worst, pick up a j/yard axle, and just swap everything over. Gives you a chance to detail everything off the car. And, if you've still got drums as stock, you can always do a disk conversion at the same time... (See how it starts? )

      Oh! And... how's the rust situation where the axle attaches to the body?
      Last edited by tosoutherncars; 06-29-2010 at 12:43 PM.

    2. Member aeffertz's Avatar
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      06-29-2010 10:32 PM #37
      Well, after work I ran to Ace to get some cutting disks to cut the bolt out. Bought a couple and got one end of the bolt cut off. The other end is about 3/4 of the cut through, but the cutting disks wore down to nothing and Ace is now closed. So, tomorrow I should have this project complete.
      I hate rust. This should've only taken a couple of hours. Instead it's taking days. Oh well, it'll just make it that much better when it's done.

    3. Member watchxmexdie's Avatar
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      06-29-2010 10:44 PM #38
      least you're not like me. i like to melt the **** when im pissed at it. good job for taking your time
      donald + Mk1 Rabbit = happy

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      06-30-2010 11:18 AM #39
      my driver's side rear strut was siezed similar to yours, although it didn't look rusty
      i had to enlist the help of a sawzall

    5. Senior Member IronTrap's Avatar
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      06-30-2010 11:49 AM #40
      usually a saw zaw or cut off wheel is key when you don't have a cutting torch. cut a section out of the bottom of the shock to expose the rubber bushing. then cut through the bushing and the metal sleeve. Extract from there, add in swearing and shouting in between. Cutting torch makes this a 5 minute extraction..

    6. Member aeffertz's Avatar
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      06-30-2010 03:09 PM #41
      Quote Originally Posted by watchxmexdie View Post
      least you're not like me. i like to melt the **** when im pissed at it. good job for taking your time
      Haha, yeah. Slowly but surely...

      Quote Originally Posted by ArsenicPants View Post
      my driver's side rear strut was siezed similar to yours, although it didn't look rusty
      i had to enlist the help of a sawzall
      That's weird. I wonder why the driver's side always get's the grief?

      Quote Originally Posted by saddest6day66 View Post
      usually a saw zaw or cut off wheel is key when you don't have a cutting torch. cut a section out of the bottom of the shock to expose the rubber bushing. then cut through the bushing and the metal sleeve. Extract from there, add in swearing and shouting in between. Cutting torch makes this a 5 minute extraction..
      And now I wish I had a cutting torch! Haha. I'm about to run up to Ace to get another disk to finish it off. Wish me luck!

    7. Member aeffertz's Avatar
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      06-30-2010 08:16 PM #42
      I love my car.

      Before:


      After:








      The squares are starting to grow on me! Whatcha guys think?

    8. Member wantacad's Avatar
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      06-30-2010 08:23 PM #43
      Hopefully you put a little anti-seize on the new bolts so in the future you won't have to go through this process again.
      Quote Originally Posted by WackyWabbitRacer View Post
      You're new here but don't be a DORK.....
      Cheers, WWR.
      Quote Originally Posted by rte7x9 View Post
      Don't swap if you can't weld or fabricate. It's not a trivial task just to bolt everything up. There's a lot of nut-scratching involved. Take your time and do it right.

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      06-30-2010 08:56 PM #44
      looks great
      love those hub caps

      Quote Originally Posted by wantacad View Post
      Hopefully you put a little anti-seize on the new bolts so in the future you won't have to go through this process again.
      mine wasn't siezed at the nut, the bolt was actually siezed straight to the rubber bushing
      no matter how much twisting or hammering i did to it it wouldn't even budge

      glad you got it all squared away
      har har, 'squared'

    10. Member eatpiealot's Avatar
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      06-30-2010 09:24 PM #45
      you have p.m., sir

    11. Member aeffertz's Avatar
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      06-30-2010 09:26 PM #46
      Quote Originally Posted by ArsenicPants View Post
      mine wasn't siezed at the nut, the bolt was actually siezed straight to the rubber bushing
      no matter how much twisting or hammering i did to it it wouldn't even budge
      Exactly what happened to mine.

      Thanks guys! I've figured out why my temperature gauge doesn't work, too. The wire that's suppose to connect to the temperature sending unit is cut. The end that has the little metal clip to clip to th sending unit is missing. Where can I get a new one of those?

    12. 06-30-2010 09:58 PM #47
      does it mean I'm finally accepted in the Mk1 community if i think his car looked better at stock height?

    13. Member aeffertz's Avatar
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      06-30-2010 10:05 PM #48
      Quote Originally Posted by skaterhernandez4 View Post
      does it mean I'm finally accepted in the Mk1 community if i think his car looked better at stock height?
      Haha, I don't know what it means. I like it much better lower, though. It'll look better once I get new, wider wheels on it too.

    14. Member bmxguy's Avatar
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      06-30-2010 10:14 PM #49
      like i said on BG it looks alot better lower. didnt realize how much rot it had. need to pull those fenders, who knows whats hiding under there. as far as helper springs are concerned i found my JOM's rode better without them and the bump stops cut way down. i also pulled out the rubber dust cover since it would bind in the spring.

    15. Member aeffertz's Avatar
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      06-30-2010 10:24 PM #50
      Quote Originally Posted by bmxguy View Post
      like i said on BG it looks alot better lower. didnt realize how much rot it had. need to pull those fenders, who knows whats hiding under there. as far as helper springs are concerned i found my JOM's rode better without them and the bump stops cut way down. i also pulled out the rubber dust cover since it would bind in the spring.
      Thanks man. The ride now isn't horrible but like others have said, it is pretty bouncy the lower you set them.

      There is one thing I'm kind of worried about. On the stock rear shocks, it had two rubber bushing-type-things on the top of the shock where it goes through the wheel well-- one underneath and one on top of the wheel well. When I put it together, only one would fit on the top of the coilovers, so I put the rubber on top of the wheel, inside of the car. I can hear it bumping up against the wheel well underneath over bumps and what not. Should I try to smash both of those bushings on the new coilovers or? Let me know!

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      07-02-2010 01:56 PM #51
      You might want to just strip everything off of that car pretty much to the bare shell and then cut out all the rusty parts and start welding. Best to start looking for the hard to find replacement parts now. That surface rust is hiding some very advanced corrosion and I expect that large parts of the body on that car will simply fall away in your hands when you start taking the car apart.

      Then again as a hood ride it's pretty awesome as it is. Needs a bit more patina but the rust is A1.

      That little wire you can't find a place for slides onto a sensor located either on the top or the side of the coolant flange that is bolted to the cylinder head. The sensor may be bad and that is why he disconnected it (didn't like the light being on all the time) or maybe it just popped off by itself.

      What is that blue tube with the home depot style "L" connector that is coming out of the end of the coolant flange? If my memory serves me correctly that is supposed to be either the line to the heater or the line to the expansion tank?
      Last edited by chrissev2; 07-02-2010 at 02:10 PM.

    17. Member aeffertz's Avatar
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      07-02-2010 10:15 PM #52
      Quote Originally Posted by chrissev2 View Post
      You might want to just strip everything off of that car pretty much to the bare shell and then cut out all the rusty parts and start welding. Best to start looking for the hard to find replacement parts now. That surface rust is hiding some very advanced corrosion and I expect that large parts of the body on that car will simply fall away in your hands when you start taking the car apart.

      Then again as a hood ride it's pretty awesome as it is. Needs a bit more patina but the rust is A1.

      That little wire you can't find a place for slides onto a sensor located either on the top or the side of the coolant flange that is bolted to the cylinder head. The sensor may be bad and that is why he disconnected it (didn't like the light being on all the time) or maybe it just popped off by itself.

      What is that blue tube with the home depot style "L" connector that is coming out of the end of the coolant flange? If my memory serves me correctly that is supposed to be either the line to the heater or the line to the expansion tank?
      Thanks for the reply. I would love to be able to strip it down to nothing, and probably will this winter, but as of now it's my only car. So, I don't want to be out of wheels for that long.
      I found where that wire connects to. It connects to the temperature sending unit on the side of the head, but now I lost the wire with the metal clip on it! Haha. I don't think he disconnected it since it runs the temperature gauge and the wire is cut.
      The blue cooling lines were just a temporary fix I had on it just to get it the rest of the way home. As I rolled into town, it blew that heater hose. So, I ran to Ace Hardware and got some coolant lines and a 90 degree plastic tube. I got the new, correct, hose back on now.

    18. Member wantacad's Avatar
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      07-02-2010 11:41 PM #53
      Quote Originally Posted by ArsenicPants View Post
      looks great
      love those hub caps



      mine wasn't siezed at the nut, the bolt was actually siezed straight to the rubber bushing
      no matter how much twisting or hammering i did to it it wouldn't even budge

      glad you got it all squared away
      har har, 'squared'
      nah, chances are it was seized to the metal sleeve inside the rubber bushing. and putting antiseize on the new bolt will help that from happening again.
      Quote Originally Posted by WackyWabbitRacer View Post
      You're new here but don't be a DORK.....
      Cheers, WWR.
      Quote Originally Posted by rte7x9 View Post
      Don't swap if you can't weld or fabricate. It's not a trivial task just to bolt everything up. There's a lot of nut-scratching involved. Take your time and do it right.

    19. Member aeffertz's Avatar
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      07-03-2010 01:40 AM #54
      ^^ Agreed and applied.

      Raceland's are riding a lot better now that they're broken in. Pretty pumped about that. Still a little bouncy, but oh well. I might trim the bump stops one of these days. Also gunna have to get the wheels aligned one of these days, too...

      Kinda confused on what I should do next with the Wabbit. I was thinking maybe I'll hold off on the respray until this winter so I have something to do then and just save up for new wheels/tires in the mean time. I'm probably going to get some Rota RB's just because I 'aint got a whole lot if money to blow and they don't look too bad. 13x8's all the way, though!

    20. Member bmxguy's Avatar
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      07-03-2010 03:22 PM #55
      Quote Originally Posted by aeffertz View Post
      ^^ Agreed and applied.

      Raceland's are riding a lot better now that they're broken in. Pretty pumped about that. Still a little bouncy, but oh well. I might trim the bump stops one of these days. Also gunna have to get the wheels aligned one of these days, too...

      Kinda confused on what I should do next with the Wabbit. I was thinking maybe I'll hold off on the respray until this winter so I have something to do then and just save up for new wheels/tires in the mean time. I'm probably going to get some Rota RB's just because I 'aint got a whole lot if money to blow and they don't look too bad. 13x8's all the way, though!
      ewwww no rotas. get some 175/50/13's and run the wheels you got. they would look awsome with a good amount of spacer behind them.

    21. Member bmxguy's Avatar
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      07-03-2010 03:24 PM #56
      oh and alignments are not hard at all. i align my car eveytime i pull the suspension. drives straight as an arrow.

    22. Member aeffertz's Avatar
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      07-03-2010 03:56 PM #57
      Quote Originally Posted by bmxguy View Post
      oh and alignments are not hard at all. i align my car eveytime i pull the suspension. drives straight as an arrow.
      Hmmm. I would like to know how. Is there maybe like a DIY floating around somewhere or maybe you could explain? I'd love to know how and save myself $70.

    23. 07-03-2010 04:24 PM #58
      Quote Originally Posted by aeffertz View Post
      Hmmm. I would like to know how. Is there maybe like a DIY floating around somewhere or maybe you could explain? I'd love to know how and save myself $70.
      its in your bentley - also WLCHLD (or close to that) terry started a thread a while ago about diy alignment.

    24. Member aeffertz's Avatar
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      07-03-2010 05:30 PM #59
      Alright, nice. I'll look up on that and see if I can get it done today.
      In other news, I got the temperature gauge working!

    25. Member punkvideo81's Avatar
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      07-03-2010 06:01 PM #60
      Nice car and build thread My caddy has similar looking inner fender rust. Mine has a ton of undercoat in the wheel wells, so I keep my fingers crossed that it won't be so bad. I have square headlights, too. At least yours are the '79 style and don't have the obnoxious side marker built in like my '81. The paint and stripe on yours is way cool and you might wanna consider not straying from that combo. Much like in the musclecar scene, after you see a bunch of bright red, yellow and orange cars at a show, it's that oddball original brown one that really has you drooling cause it's so unique. Good luck and keep the pics and posts comin!

    26. Member aeffertz's Avatar
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      07-03-2010 06:14 PM #61
      Thanks man.

      Gunna go out and work on the alignment. I checked out WCHLVR's DIY Alignment Thread and it doesn't seem to hard. Awesome thread, by the way!
      Another problem has come up, though. I've seen it happen to a few of my buddies classic cars but when I turn my wheel sometimes the horn will start honking... lol. Is there just a loose connection in there or is something bigger? I'll have to dig into that tonight, too.

    27. Member bmxguy's Avatar
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      07-03-2010 10:05 PM #62
      Quote Originally Posted by aeffertz View Post
      Thanks man.

      Gunna go out and work on the alignment. I checked out WCHLVR's DIY Alignment Thread and it doesn't seem to hard. Awesome thread, by the way!
      Another problem has come up, though. I've seen it happen to a few of my buddies classic cars but when I turn my wheel sometimes the horn will start honking... lol. Is there just a loose connection in there or is something bigger? I'll have to dig into that tonight, too.
      your rabbit has a horn!? lucky bastard.

    28. Member rabbitinfife's Avatar
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      07-04-2010 01:56 AM #63
      Quote Originally Posted by aeffertz View Post
      Thanks man.

      Gunna go out and work on the alignment. I checked out WCHLVR's DIY Alignment Thread and it doesn't seem to hard. Awesome thread, by the way!
      Another problem has come up, though. I've seen it happen to a few of my buddies classic cars but when I turn my wheel sometimes the horn will start honking... lol. Is there just a loose connection in there or is something bigger? I'll have to dig into that tonight, too.


      make sure the translucent white looking plastic sleeve is there that is your first culprit

      it sits right on top of the ignition switch if it is missing that is your problem

      I never used to put it back on eithier until I actually had a car with a horn that worked. It took me forever and a day to figure out why every time I turned a corner my horn would honk. I realized that vw put it there for a reason.Trypushing on the bottom (6 o clock) at the very bottom of the wheel if it honks you might have this problem. It could also be worn copper piece that rubs on the bottom of the steering wheel, or bad column bearings.

    29. Member rabbitinfife's Avatar
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      A bunch of rusty Kraut cans
      07-04-2010 02:15 AM #64
      I have a bad feeling that you are gonna find alot more rust in that car, ALOT

      the sad fact is that the westy rabbits rusted way worse then the german ones. The early roccos were prone to rust problems badly too

      I have had and seen the same rot/rust in the westy cars, the winshield pillars are one of the the most common place for rot on the westy cars, because they put some kind of foam in there that absorbs moisture, the lower core support hole is probably from battery acid too

      I bought a car one time that sat a long time with the battery leaking, the acid ran all the way down the crush tube and rotted thru the fire wall and eventually thru the floor and then then it ran down the underside of the body and wrecked havoc on the floor and were the rear axle mount goes. When you remove the fenders there could be baseball sized holes under there.

      Sorry for all the bad info but it might be worth it find another one depending on how bad it is.

      good luck

      looking forward to seeing your progress

    30. Member aeffertz's Avatar
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      07-04-2010 11:29 PM #65
      Well, I got the front end aligned today! But now the steering wheel doesn't sit straight when the wheels are... Ugh. I'm also either going to have to raise it a bit or get some spacers because the tires are rubbing on the springs... Haha. This also happened to me the other day driving past a bunch of people:


      Ouuuch. At least I didn't bust all the way through. Anyone on here sell skidplates?


      Just some more rubbing.

      Aside from all that news, I found the perfect material for making some new, metal euro-like bumpers. Anyone got some dimensions?
      Also started to put a new stereo in the car, but I can't get it to fit. It seems like the pocket in the dash isn't deep enough for the whole stereo to fit in there, neither is the glove box. What kinds of radios have you guys used? Let me know!

    31. Member bmxguy's Avatar
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      07-05-2010 04:02 PM #66
      that pan is still fresh. you should weld some steel on it like mine before you have to buy a new pan. you should also notch your front frame rail where the axle rubs. when its rubbing along there itll make your ride way worse.

    32. Member aeffertz's Avatar
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      07-06-2010 02:42 AM #67
      Will do. Tomorrow I'll notch the frame a little and see if I can round up some scrap steel. I also plan on picking up some fiberglass supplies and making some walls to cover the wheel wells and tail light area tomorrow as well. Should be fun. Maybe run some speaker wire to the back to get the ready. I want to get the new wheels and a stereo put in before DIV.

      I'll try to get some progress pics of what I get done tomorrow for you guys. 'Til then, here's a pic of me having tons of fun trying to get the stubborn bolt out of the old shock!


    33. 07-06-2010 04:55 PM #68
      Dont trust ur jack...get some stands...ur family will thank u for it!!!!!

      sweet car!

    34. Member aeffertz's Avatar
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      07-06-2010 06:36 PM #69
      Thanks man. If you look on the other side of me, there is a jack stand holding it up on that side. I had one right where I was, but I had to move it and put the jack where it is so I could get in there to get at the bolt.

      Got a little fiberglassing done so far today and got a new thermoswitch ordered for the fan.

    35. Member aeffertz's Avatar
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      07-07-2010 12:14 AM #70
      Didn't get as much done as I planned due to the crazy humid and hot garage. Got a little done when it got later, though.

      First I started on the rear cargo area fiberglass walls.



      While that was drying, I got the interior ripped back out and put in some new jute padding. Out with the old, wet, smelly sh*t, in with the new.



      Once the fiberglass dried, I got the first wall trimmed up and just set it in there. It fits really good.




      Without the wall.

      Main reason for the walls is to cover the Raamat and create a cleaner look. Another idea I came up with with the walls is that I can hide an amp and wiring behind them, but I'm not sure if an amp will fit or not. Once all the walls are cut and glassed, I'll wrap them in the same fabric that I'm recovering a few other interior bits with.

      Here's what I'm thinking for the rear cargo walls or whatever you wanna call them. I'll let the pics talk.





      I'm thinking design B just because it'll probably be a lot easier. Might look better too. Whatcha guys thankin?

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