MK1 Golf Four Wheel Drive with MK5 R32 Turbo Lump (Under Construction)

[mafosta]

drive this car already. cant wait to see it done

[mymotown]

drive this car already. cant wait to see it done

I know man. I gotta work full time 9-5. I only ever get to work on this car on the weekends. But i'm getting there. Might have the engine turning over in about 3 weeks or so, but don't quote me on that.

Thanks for the encouragement tho.

[MikkiJayne]

The issue is I have Mk1 front suspension on the front and MK2 rallye on the back, so its difficult get a set without buying two pair.

I'm pretty sure the Rallye / Syncro uses mk1 rear shocks as they are shorter than the mk2 ones. Not sure how that would translate to a syncro in a mk1 - possibly they would need to be even shorter still Mk1 coils ought to bolt up, but whether they would go low enough I don't know...

[mymotown]

I'm pretty sure the Rallye / Syncro uses mk1 rear shocks as they are shorter than the mk2 ones. Not sure how that would translate to a syncro in a mk1 - possibly they would need to be even shorter still Mk1 coils ought to bolt up, but whether they would go low enough I don't know...

Got a set of MK1 coilies on the car right now. The back is higher than Amy Winehouse. I think I'm gonna need rallye ones. They've got to be a lot shorted.

[MikkiJayne]

The back is higher than Amy Winehouse.

Lol!

[syracusegli]

wow. awesome
watching this thread

[polov8]

compared to a 2wd mk2 Golf, the syncro/rallye rear shocks are shorter, coincidentally all but identical in length to a mk1 shock, so, to fit your rear end, you need shocks that are a similar amount shorter AGAIN< as a mk1 shock is in comparison to a mk2.

I can measure that if you want?

[mymotown]

wow. awesome
watching this thread

Thanks man!

[mymotown]

compared to a 2wd mk2 Golf, the syncro/rallye rear shocks are shorter, coincidentally all but identical in length to a mk1 shock, so, to fit your rear end, you need shocks that are a similar amount shorter AGAIN< as a mk1 shock is in comparison to a mk2.

I can measure that if you want?

O right. Thanks for the offer but I think I'll hunt down a set rallye back ones. They'll be the right ones. I've seen a few rallyes on the deck so they are out there.



Really don't wanna buy a whole kit just for the back ones tho. Anyone know where I could find just a pair for the rear only?

[mymotown]

Last weekend was a wash out. Didn't get a thing done. We had to transplant a whole paint booth across the yard. That pretty much took up the whole day. But I made of it this weekend.

So I've pretty much finished up the brakes at this point. Needs brake fluid and bleeding but that a minor issues. I'll be getting a set of hand brake cables this weekend so I can strike the brakes off the to-do list.

Finally managed to get my hands on a flaring tool for the copper brake lines. Little John kindly volunteered his kit for a weekend. Nice and easy to use as you don't need a vice.

Leaving off from the last point of the build, I fitted the overly complicated transfer pedal assembly that comes on the right hand drive Mk1 Golfs/Rabbits. I would of loved to run a brake bias system like the one below that's on my ABA 82' Golf/Rabbit but I wanted to have a servo. I could have used a remote servo but it just seemed like it would complicate the build even more. Plus remote servo kit is like £100.00. That could go towards a custom exhaust system instead.


MK1 Golf ABA Bias Brakes set up


MK1 Golf ABA Bias Brakes set up


Remote Servo


MK1 Golf with hidden remote servo.

I flared all the brake line ends under the car and connected them to the lines that come from the brake calipers. Since I'm using a rallye back axle I didn't have to convert the rear brakes from drums to discs as the axle already had it. The copper is so easy to bend so there were no dramas with connecting the lines. I'll get some pictures of that on the weekend.

Once all the transfer pedal assembly was fitted, I flared the ends of the copper lines and connected them. I made a rookie mistake and forgot to slip on the male connector to join the copper line to the master cylinder so had to cut the line down a couple times after I'd already flared the end. Good think I left a little extra length o the lines.


Flaring the Copper Lines


Flaring the Copper Lines


Flaring the Copper Lines


Flared copper line end with Male connector


Finished product with staggered rear break compensators


Finished product with staggered rear break compensators

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_IgrVRumxPq8/TH...742%5B1%5D.jpg
Finished product with staggered rear break compensators


Finished Product - MK2 Golf 16v master cylinder and servo with MK1 Golf transfer pedal setup.


Finished Product - MK2 Golf 16v master cylinder and servo with MK1 Golf transfer pedal setup.


Finished Product - MK2 Golf 16v master cylinder and servo with MK1 Golf transfer pedal setup.


Finished Product - MK2 Golf 16v master cylinder and servo with MK1 Golf transfer pedal setup.


Finished Product - MK2 Golf 16v master cylinder and servo with MK1 Golf transfer pedal setup.

Also managed to tackle that R32 throttle body and convert it from fly by wire to cable. Wasn't as bad as I thought it would be.

First step was to strip down the R32 throttle body by taking the black plastic housing off and remove the original spindle to disconnected the motor inside the throttle body. Won't be needing that. A pair of pliers and some gentle persuasion and spindle was off.


R32 Throttle body with the spindle bent out the way.


R32 Throttle body with the spindle bent out the way.


R32 Throttle body with the spindle removed

The white sprocket that connects the electric motor to the throttle body just slides off once the spindle is removed.


Spindle and sprocket removed from the R32 Throttle body.


Next step was to find a donor throttle body to get a spindle off of that is cable operated. A 1.8 8v Mk2 Golf engine that we had laying around came in handy for this part.


Mk2 Golf 1.8 8v donor engine with throttle spindle.


Mk2 Golf 1.8 8v throttle spindle.

One 11mm bolt and a large screw driver later and the part i needed was off.



Mk2 Golf 1.8 8v throttle spindle


Mk2 Golf 1.8 8v throttle spindle

The two little legs on the spindle aren't needed so I shaved those off.


Mk2 Golf 1.8 8v throttle spindle with legs to be chop off.


Shaved down Mk2 Golf 1.8 8v throttle spindle


Shaved down Mk2 Golf 1.8 8v throttle spindle


Shaved down Mk2 Golf 1.8 8v throttle spindle


Shaved down Mk2 Golf 1.8 8v throttle spindle

Going back to the R32 throttle body, the pin that the sprockets sits on needs to be cut away to allow full movement of the spindle.


Sprocket pin chop off


The spindle can now be put in place of the original spindle that was removed earlier. There are probably a few different ways of fitting the spindle to the butterfly pin, but I opted for the more permanent solution. The welding option. VW Sam wasted no time. More pictures to follow.


Butterfly pin that 1.8 8v spindle will be welded to.
The blue wires go to the throttle position sensor so I don't need to incorporate one of those.

[vwovw]

great job!!

[mymotown]

great job!!

Thanks man.

[mymotown]

Another weekend spent doing not much on the car at all. Petrol tank is waiting to be pressured test and the radiator core was put on the wrong way around and got damaged when the guy tried to swap it round again.

The car is going back to the fabricators to have the haldex system put in in two weeks time so i'm hoping to have the tank and rad in place by then along side other bits a pieces.

Last time I was just finishing off the throttle body mod. CARL the man with the plan gave me all the info I needed to get it done. (I own you big time man). I had some issues with the mod but he helped figured them out.


R32 throttle body converted to run a throttle cable


R32 throttle body converted to run a throttle cable


R32 throttle body converted to run a throttle cable

With the 1.8 8v spindle welded on, the case no longer fit so I'll have to get something fabricated. I'll use this set up for now until i get a spare throttle body that i can perfect with a custom spindle.

Edition 38, one of the England's biggest show and shine events was on the Sunday so I didn't get much done then either. This was my favourite car of the show.



Edition 38 2010


Edition 38 2010


Edition 38 2010


I managed to pick up some 25mm spacers from the show, so the Borbet A's can go back on the car.



25mm 4x100 spacer


25mm 4x100 spacer


25mm 4x100 spacer

[antichristonwheels]

Awesome build. 2 questions:

is copper strong enough for brake lines?

on the drivers side motor mount did you have to only remove the original mount for enough clearance or did you have to narrow the framerail as well? IF so how much did you have to trim off?

[MikkiJayne]

Copper is pretty much the standard DIY stuff for making replacement brake lines. It is here in the UK anyway. You can get Kunifer as well (copper/nickel alloy) but thats harder to flare and bend so not as common for DIY.

[mymotown]

Awesome build. 2 questions:

is copper strong enough for brake lines?

on the drivers side motor mount did you have to only remove the original mount for enough clearance or did you have to narrow the framerail as well? IF so how much did you have to trim off?

Hi,

I believe the only time you'd ever have a problem with copper lines are if they are on a moving joint. I have a flexi section of braided hose on the rear arms where I'm likely to have any movement.


Copper brake like with flexi section.

We've you'd copper lines on other builds and they are still going strong years later.

The exiting mounts were removed as I wasn't intending to use them and I didn't want them getting in the way. (some VR6 builds use the existing mounts but I guess i just took the easy way out) There was no need to narrow the framerails on the car. The R32 engine with the mounts attached drop right in with the modification as show below.

We lowered the engine into the bay and eye up roughly the best position that would allow the drive shafts to best run in their intended position.


Initial installation of the engine.

The belt side was fairly easy to mount. We just shaved the raised ridge on the suspension leg away to allow the mount to sit flush in this position. We moved the mount as close to the suspension leg bulk head as possible. (this would have to be cut into the bulk head once the gearbox mount was in place to get the engine to line up straight horizontally.)


................cut into the bulk head once the gearbox mount was in place to get the engine to line up straight.

On the gearbox side we cut a section out of the chassis leg the same width as the mount just leaving the base and back section of the leg. This cut was made from just after the suspension leg bulk head. This is a really crude drawing, hope it helps.


Picasso version of the modified mounting position on the gearbox side



...........cut was made from just after the suspension leg bulk head


The alternator was hitting the front panel so a section of that got cut out also.


............alternator was hit the front panel so a section of that got cut out also

With the 20v engine I wouldn't worry the belt side mount. You can use a Rabbit GTI engine mount. This should bolt directly to the block as mount like a normal Rabbit GTI engine.[/QUOTE]

[antichristonwheels]

yea, I forgot my buddy with the old British sporting tractors uses copper on restorations. Steel is pretty standard here but I can see how copper would be easier to deal with. I have a PD 150 going into a 79 Scirocco if my shop ever gets the trans ready... I need to do the same MK4 belt side mount that you used. So this makes me feel better, just trim off the factory mount and reinforce the top of the frame rail with a steel plate. We were worried about cutting the side out and thinning the rail. Your pics and answers are a big help. I have a WRD 02A trans mount and I think with only A/C and an alternator I may not have to notch the front, but my shop has done it already on a couple swaps.

[mymotown]

yea, I forgot my buddy with the old British sporting tractors uses copper on restorations. Steel is pretty standard here but I can see how copper would be easier to deal with. I have a PD 150 going into a 79 Scirocco if my shop ever gets the trans ready... I need to do the same MK4 belt side mount that you used. So this makes me feel better, just trim off the factory mount and reinforce the top of the frame rail with a steel plate. We were worried about cutting the side out and thinning the rail. Your pics and answers are a big help. I have a WRD 02A trans mount and I think with only A/C and an alternator I may not have to notch the front, but my shop has done it already on a couple swaps.

Yep, the copper will do the trick nicely, and its really easy to manipulate so no bending tool required. I think if I was to start over on this project I'd mount the engine MK3 Golf style. Would like a lot nicer. O well.....

Good luck with your project man.

[mymotown]

Another weekend of getting busy doing nothing. Was hoping to have the radiator and petrol tank in place so I could complete the plumbing and run the fuel line. No joy, as neither were ready. Got a call from the rad guy. He had to make custom ends to make the whole thing work. I'll post picture when I pic it up on Friday. Might get my tank then too. (fingers crossed)

The car needs to be sent back to Xport racing to get the Haldex put in place, so the wheels got put back on in preparation for the journey. Junior, who's build a similar beast came down to lend a hand, share some ideas and help figure out the Amy Winehouse issue.


Front wheels back on car 25mm with spacers.


Loads of clearance for the Wilwoods.


The Amy Winehouse issue. (High as a kit)

It turns out Mk1 Golf/Rabbit rear suspension legs are exactly the same length as Mk2 Golf Rallye/Syncro ones. I'll need to find another solution to get the car to have a some what normal stance.


MK1 Golf rear suspension leg (yellow) and MK2 Golf Rallye rear suspension leg (blue)

Junior suggested we take the helper spring off and fit the leg on the car, but that didn't change much. Good suggestion tho. I've been looking on Ebay and found a set of Gaz rear coilovers from a Vauxhall Nova that i've been told are 17.5 inches long compared to the 21 inches of the mk1 Golf ones. They also wind down all the way to the base of the shock. I'm pretty sure this will do the trick if I can get the top mounts to work on the MK1 Golf.


Vauxhall Nova


Vauxhall Nova rear coilovers.


.......also wind down all the way to the base of the shock


...... if I can get the top mounts to work on the MK1 Golf.

I'm open to ideas if anyone knows of a tried and tested method of sorting out the rear ride height. Thanks.

[9N3 Turbo]

Good work dude By the way it's Junior

Just found this on the GAZ site and they are based in Essex

GAZ GOLD (from the image posted they look to be this option)

Gaz Gold height adjustable kits are a premium range of suspension units designed for tarmac motorsport and the serious track day enthusiast.

Most of the GHA Listings are available in the Gold range with the addition of struts kits for the classic and retro car market i.e. Lotus, Cortinas, Escort, Mexicos, Capris, Lancia Intergrale and Evo‘s.

The features are:-

1. Front and rear units adjust bump and rebound from a single control knob on the side of the unit.

2. Struts and semi struts have 62mm bodies for increased oil capacity. These units are fitted with 22mm diameter induction hardened piston rods that are hard chrome plated for strength and durability.

3. All units have multi lip sealing. The outer seal is a metal encased wiper to clean the piston rod. This in turn extends main seal performance and oil retention under extreme conditions.

4. All the Gold range are fitted with a gas cell in the outer reservoir and filled with a high viscosity index multi grade oil to prevent cavitation and reduce fade in motor racing conditions.

5. The coilovers and telescopic units in this range utilise lightweight billet alloy components where possible, i.e. bases, end fittings, seats, lockrings, rod guides and gland nuts. The outer tube is steel with a nickel coating to provide the best anti corrosive finish possible. All outer alloy components are anodised.

6. A full range of springs are stocked at the factory for road and motorsport use.

All units in our ranges can be purchased individually or repaired by return in the event of an accident.

[9N3 Turbo]

Dude here is a link to another thread i have been looking at.

http://www.clubgti.com/forum/showthread.php?t=209507

and another

http://www.vwgolfmk1.org.uk/modules....er=asc&start=0

[deathhare.]

updates?

[shauno]

Any updates on this? Looks awesome!

[mymotown]

Hello All,

Been away from the cars for a while. Personal life took over for the last 3 months or so, but i'm right back in it.

Since I last updated this thread, I've sent the car back to Xsport racing to have the Mk4 R32 Haldex Diff mounted on the back axle, as the BMW set up was not gonna work. Shout out to onet and MikkiJayne for the heads up.


Picture of the haldex back axle

Will be collecting the petrol tank and rad this weekend and might also run up to Xsport to take a look at the progress thus far.

Also yet to check on the progress of the Gaz coilovers but will be following that up shortly.

A more detailed update will following on Monday.

[MikkiJayne]

[vwovw]

[mymotown]

Sorry for the lack of updates recently.

Won't be getting the car back from the fabricators for a few weeks yet so I don't really have anything to update.

Still have a couple items to secure for the car so hopefully I'll have some pics up on the weekend.

Thanks for looking.

[deathhare.]

Am still watching.

[mymotown]

Am still watching.

Thanks man!

[35i 2000]

epic build!

epic!

[JrAdrock]

I stumbled across this thread and I haven't posted for a long time, but this one has me hooked. I would come help you if I could, but its a distance thing! I've had my hands on a few creations but nothing like this! Can't wait to see a vid when its done. We are all waiting like kids for Christmas day. Thanks for taking the time to include us. Some of us have to live vicariously through your build. Keep up the good work.

[mymotown]

epic build!

epic!

Awww, thanks man. Getting a little frustrated as I didn't want this to be on of those project threads that drowns on for months, then years but it would seem it's all out of my hands. O well, I guess goodness comes to those who wait. GRRRRRRRR!!!

[mymotown]

I stumbled across this thread and I haven't posted for a long time, but this one has me hooked. I would come help you if I could, but its a distance thing! I've had my hands on a few creations but nothing like this! Can't wait to see a vid when its done. We are all waiting like kids for Christmas day. Thanks for taking the time to include us. Some of us have to live vicariously through your build. Keep up the good work.

Man........these words of yours mean a lot to me. I couldn't have got this far on the build without you guys and all the encouragement I've been getting on the thread.

Unforeseen circumstances have lead to the build being up on hold so fingers crossed everything will resolve itself in a week or so then I can get back to it.

JrAdrock thanks again.

[deathhare.]

The pics were really encouraging for me in my own vr6 swap. Its not easy to start hacking holes in your frame rail but having seen how you did it and welded in the mount I was able to get it right the first time.
Hope this gets back on track soon.

[mymotown]

The pics were really encouraging for me in my own vr6 swap. Its not easy to start hacking holes in your frame rail but having seen how you did it and welded in the mount I was able to get it right the first time.
Hope this gets back on track soon.

Glad I could help. Yeah, I was really worried about cutting into my chassis rails as well. I wasn't too keen on using the trial and error method but I guess someone had to do it.

Hope I get it back soon as well.

Thanks again man.