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    Thread: My Clean Up Project: Racer-X

    1. Member USMCFieldMP's Avatar
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      07-12-2010 01:58 AM #1
      Back on May 23rd, I picked up a 1986 GTI w/ VR6 swapped out of a 95 Passat. Its 5-lug swapped, as well. Car had sat for 4 years after the owner lost his license, from what I understand. The swap is pretty rough. Wiring is the main thing that is ugly on it. Motor/Trans have 66k. It had a pretty bad case of the misfires when I first bought it, so I threw new plugs in it. That cleaned up its driveability a little bit.

      It has a Recaro Driver's Seat... WELL worn. Very Old. Crappy Cobra Passenger seat. Well used Momo Steering wheel and a VERY worn out Momo Shifter. Car has no Dash, bolt-in Cage, and the way to start it is ghetto. I need to either find a wiring master or learn some wiring myself. I need to get solid motor/trans mounts for it... it feels like the motor/trans are hopping out of the engine bay when you floor it in 1st and then let off to shift... and it'll hop the hell out of 2nd when you first shift it. :lol: I'd like to take it to the Drag Strip with my Hoosiers to see what it'll do. Shooting for a 13.8. It needs some suspension modification for sure though. The Front Springs/Struts are different from the rears... so the front sits a lot higher than the rear.

      ANYWAY... done a few improvements since I got it. New Injen air filter that I had lying around, cleaned the MAF, and then new NGK Plugs and STI Plug Wires. I just bought a center console and an 84 GTI golf ball w/ accordion shift boot. There are a ton of things, stock and aftermarket, that I'm looking to put back into it... but this is all that I can think of:

      • Red Stripe GTI Dash
      • Red Stripe GTI Door Cards
      • Badged Quad Headlight Grille
      • Custom Headliner
      • Stock Passenger Seat + Seat Belt
      • Reupholster the Recaro
      • MSD Coilpacks
      • BFI Stage 2 Delrin Motor Mounts
      • Koni Yellows w/ Race Springs or Koni Coilovers
      • Neuspeed Triangulated Rear Upper Strut Brace
      • 272 Cams, Chip, maybe some NAWZ!
      • Deka Lightweight Battery


      If anyone has any of those, please lemme now. Pretty much anything for the interior of a MK2 GTI, I need. Anywho; I'm looking to Autocross the hell out of the car next year. The car already carves the hell out of some corners... I can't imagine how well it'll do with a proper suspension set-up. :

      Screwing around in a parking lot: VR6 GTI Video

      Raced a 2008 Mercedes-Benz CLK-350 about 2 weeks ago (268hp/258tq @ 3585 lbs). 2 teens driving around in their parents vehicle, no doubt. As I was passing them (Cruising at 40, them at 35), they gunned it, so I dropped it into 2nd and floored it... had a nose on them at the end of 2nd gear and started pulling away once I banged 3rd... then they let out. It was fun, mostly because it was my first race since leaving for Iraq a year ago.

      A week after that, I ran into an old friend... he recently turbo'd his Civic Hatch... D16 or B16, I forget. He had more power (173whp), so I knew he would be faster... but I knew I'd be able to shift faster/better. We took off and I jumped into the lead right off the bat by about 1/2 a car. I was in the lead for 95% of the race... he didn't pass me until we hit 4th and his horsepower gave him the definite advantage. Twas fun as well.


















    2. Geriatric Member steveo27's Avatar
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      07-12-2010 02:25 AM #2
      yipes! ive been watching your post in the swap/hybrid forums VR6 swap thread. i would tear out all the PO hacked wiring and start over.
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    3. Member USMCFieldMP's Avatar
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      07-12-2010 03:13 AM #3
      Yeah. I was looking at harnesses earlier today from AutoHaas. Found a couple of stock ones... but I think I'd end up having to spend $250+ for used harnesses from them. So I need to check the local junkyards... and/or wait patiently for someone on here to sell some.

      I've stongly considered making my own Mil-Spec Harness... I'd just need to find info on all the connectors that I'll need and all that jazz. I'd like to do something like that... but I've never done it before, so I wouldn't want to do it without some sort of guidance.

    4. Member USMCFieldMP's Avatar
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      07-12-2010 08:17 PM #4
      FIRST: I was looking at the rear mount... and it looks like its missing a bolt. :ugh!: A very important one... Anyone know what size bolt this is? I don't wanna have to order the BFI Stage 2 Delrin Complete Motor Mount Kit just yet.





      SECOND: Does anyone have a wiring diagram or know what each wire thats coming out of the back of the Ignition Switch does? The way that it is currently rigged... I have to set the ignition to "ON" and then jump the connection from the Red/Black wire to the striped out section of the solid Red wire, using that Red/Blue wire. I'd like to figure out what everything there does so that I can convert to something like a Longacre Switch Panel.







      THIRD: I pulled out what I THINK is the headlight harness. None of the connections were connected to anything... SO, does anyone have a wiring diagram for that? All I REALLY need to know from that... is which wires are for the turn signals. That's the only thing that I'm worried about when I drive around... is not having front turn signals.



    5. Member justin717's Avatar
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      07-12-2010 10:05 PM #5
      Ouch! Thats TERRIBLE


      Its truthfully going to be easier to rip it all out and start over...
      Last edited by justin717; 07-12-2010 at 11:46 PM.

    6. Member USMCFieldMP's Avatar
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      07-12-2010 10:48 PM #6
      Quote Originally Posted by justin717 View Post
      Ouch! Thats TERRIBLE


      Its truthfully going to be easier to rip it all out and start over...
      Yeah... that's the plan. I've considered making my own harness system... but I've been reading that it is a SERIOUS PITA. I found a couple of harnesses on eBay last night from AutoHaas. Might end up picking them up here real soon.

      Right now, I need to figure out what size bolt goes in the top of the rear motor mount.

    7. Member Greg_J's Avatar
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      07-13-2010 12:14 AM #7
      bolt size is m10x58

      the PN for that particular bolt is N90553202
      Quote Originally Posted by ennui_delphian View Post
      Don't anger canadiun lesbian...

    8. Member USMCFieldMP's Avatar
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      07-13-2010 03:23 PM #8
      Thanks for the info!

    9. Banned dubbinmk2's Avatar
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      07-13-2010 03:40 PM #9
      i don't understand why people do what they do.... either u know how to splice properly or dont do it at all....


      that some serious hack right there, even the swap i had back in early 2002 had better work than this lol.... and my ish was a hack for sure....

    10. Banned dubbinmk2's Avatar
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      07-13-2010 03:43 PM #10
      not only are u missing a bolt I dont think that connector is suppose to be just hanging there? i think there is a bracket that it attaches to or something

    11. Banned dubbinmk2's Avatar
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      07-13-2010 03:47 PM #11
      to be honest with you man i would just throw a 100-150 shot of NOS direct port and have fun i wouldn't bother putting money into that car....


      it's been setup for racing just leave it as is and add some FI to it and have fun at the track

    12. Member USMCFieldMP's Avatar
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      07-13-2010 03:48 PM #12
      Quote Originally Posted by dubbinmk2 View Post
      not only are u missing a bolt I dont think that connector is suppose to be just hanging there? i think there is a bracket that it attaches to or something
      Haha... who knows.

      I need to take it to a big meet or something and get a couple of VR6 know-it-alls to look it over. I also guess I need to get a Bentley Manual on the way.

      Quote Originally Posted by dubbinmk2 View Post
      to be honest with you man i would just throw a 100-150 shot of NOS direct port and have fun i wouldn't bother putting money into that car....


      it's been setup for racing just leave it as is and add some FI to it and have fun at the track
      Ha, that does sound like a good plan.

    13. Banned dubbinmk2's Avatar
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      07-13-2010 03:54 PM #13
      by the time you get all the little missing pieces to make it look like a car you better off getting another shell with all the screws and trip etc, etc

    14. Member USMCFieldMP's Avatar
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      07-13-2010 04:12 PM #14
      Quote Originally Posted by dubbinmk2 View Post
      by the time you get all the little missing pieces to make it look like a car you better off getting another shell with all the screws and trip etc, etc
      That's what I was thinking about earlier. My friend and I were talking about that as well. Just keeping this car more of a autocross/track car... and then later on down the road, finding myself a nice, clean GTI.

    15. Member USMCFieldMP's Avatar
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      07-25-2010 12:18 AM #15
      VF Engineering Motor & Trans mounts arrived.



      Starter died on it. Got a new one on the way from a MiVE member. Should have her up and running again with the new mounts and starter on Monday.



      Might start looking into making a Switch Box for it here soon so that I can eliminate the key, and all the other random switches that are in the car. Any suggestions?

      I thought about buying a Longacre pre-wired box or two... (about $50-$60 a piece)



      I REALLY like this one... but I want the ability to expand and get another multi-switch panel, like the one with 4 switches pictured above, but the Carbon Series only comes like this:



      I looked at the Moroso, as well... but they are a lot more expensive ($125)...

      Last edited by USMCFieldMP; 07-25-2010 at 12:26 AM.

    16. Member MyCarIsRed's Avatar
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      07-25-2010 01:14 AM #16
      "the road to hell was paved with good intentions".

      that is the only thing that comes to mind when i look at this car. it looks like every project that was started was never finished... i've gotten into some big projects before, but i'd gladly take any of them over this any day of the week! good luck me! and yes, there is supposed to be a bracket on the top of the motor mount. it's plastic and holds the wires from chaffing.

    17. Member ChainNoise's Avatar
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      07-25-2010 09:32 AM #17
      Dude start over with that wiring that thing is gonna catch fire.

    18. Senior Member Jman5000's Avatar
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      07-25-2010 10:08 AM #18
      Quote Originally Posted by USMCFieldMP View Post
      B I'm looking to put back into it... but this is all that I can think of:

      [LIST][*]Red Stripe GTI Dash
      Still sitting in my basement waiting for you to come pick it up. Texted & IM'd you but no reply.

    19. 07-25-2010 10:26 AM #19
      dude, i'm in dayton and a freaking jedi master with wiring....especially swaps. i'll PM you my number and gladly give you a hand cleaning this rats nest up


    20. Member USMCFieldMP's Avatar
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      07-25-2010 12:32 PM #21
      Quote Originally Posted by Jman5000 View Post
      Still sitting in my basement waiting for you to come pick it up. Texted & IM'd you but no reply.
      Yeah, I meant to give you a reply... but I've been busy with my other car, trying to figure out why its spooling 1000rpm late.

      Quote Originally Posted by A1steaksauce View Post
      dude, i'm in dayton and a freaking jedi master with wiring....especially swaps. i'll PM you my number and gladly give you a hand cleaning this rats nest up
      I'll keep that in mind... thanks!

    21. Member USMCFieldMP's Avatar
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      07-27-2010 04:43 AM #22
      Went to the garage with the intent of just swapping out the starter and driving it home. Once I got the starter swapped out... I decided, what the hell, I'll swap the mounts out too. BUT, I didn't do my proper research and check things out first. I figured that since pretty much everything out of the Passat was put into the car, that the motor mounts from the VR6 were put in as well. Wrong on one count. That's what I get for assuming, like a jack-ass; especially with this car. The A2 front cross-member was used, along with a STOCK A2 front mount, from the looks of it.

      So, my options are to either track down a VR6 front cross member or to just order a solid front mount for an A2... which is what I'll be doing. I'm just going to sell my Front VF Engineering mount and get a BFI MK2/G60 Solid Front Mount.



      After going home and doing my proper research on the front mount... I head back to the garage to swap the mounts... but I ended up doing all sorts of other stuff as well. Haha... I got sidetracked and started wrapping my new header with DEI's Titanium Wrap. Probably the worst wrap job ever. Not an easy header to wrap, at all. Finished that up after like 2 hours, I think... then I hoisted the motor up... and pulled the Rear and Trans mounts out. Trans mount was a bitch and a half. Reminded me of why I need ratcheting wrenches. Put the VF-E Rear mount in... and dropped the VF-E Trans mount in. It looks like the guy that I bought the mounts off of didn't send me the extended bolts to hold the trans mount in... as the stock ones are too short. I'll hit up Lowe's tomorrow and see what I can find. Which reminds me, that I forgot to grab the bolts out of the garage and bring them with me. Doh!

      Once I got done with that... I still had the urge to do work. Looked around the engine bay... and then started tearing the SAI out. Gotta love bolts in tight spaces. Managed to get all of it out. So it looks like I need to order an SAI plug as well... that or make my own, somehow. Any Suggestions? After that... I crawled under the car to get started on putting my header in... only to find out that who ever did the swap/put the Cat-back in the car... welded the cat-back to the VR6 Downpipe. So... I'm not too sure what I'm going to do there. How do VR6's sound on open downpipe? Haha. The Cat-back is actually 3", which is nice... but I think they used mild steel. Its all corroded like crazy. And the O2 sensor is all kinds of crazily angled in there. I think they cross threaded it in... because it does NOT sit flush with the bung. I think that's about it... I think I called it quits after that.

      This is a stock A2 mount, right?


      This is probably why I was getting wheel hop and it sounded like the motor was hoping out of the engine bay... about 1/2 of rubber was still holding it in.


      A2 Cross Member, right?




      The bolt/stud in the top of the Rear mount was broke off in the top, just as I though... so there was actually NOTHING holding the rear of the motor down. Another reason why I was wheel hopping, etc.




      And this is just an awesome shot, imo.
      Last edited by USMCFieldMP; 07-27-2010 at 04:46 AM.

    22. Member MyCarIsRed's Avatar
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      07-27-2010 02:39 PM #23
      i had a 42 draftdesign SAI plug in mine but apparently you can use a freeze plug and just hammer it in and it works the same. i'm not exactly sure of the size. you can check on the vr tech boards for more info. if you want a 42dd plug, it costs quite a bit more and to be honest, doesn't make any visual difference unless you're running a SRI because you can't see it. Freeze plug is a coupe bucks and you can get them at your local parts store.

      that is a mk2 beam. i use a mount from APtuning which is basically what you've got posted there but made of solid aluminum. keeps the motor from rocking around the bay, but be prepared for some teeth chatter and a bit of rattle in the dash.

      lastly, a 3" exhuast is pretty much overkill. a lot of people will argue that unless you're running a forced induction setup, 3" is too large and hurts performance. you'd be better off with a 2.5". you can get a local muffler shop to hack one together, or you can buy one from a company. Autotech makes a nice one for fairly cheap, but the vr exhausts they make tend to have a bit of drone. techtonics makes a setup specific for vr swaps in mk2's. that's your best bet, but it really comes down to personal preference. Good luck man, hope this helps.
      Last edited by MyCarIsRed; 07-27-2010 at 02:49 PM.

    23. Member USMCFieldMP's Avatar
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      07-27-2010 05:37 PM #24
      Quote Originally Posted by MyCarIsRed View Post
      i had a 42 draftdesign SAI plug in mine but apparently you can use a freeze plug and just hammer it in and it works the same. i'm not exactly sure of the size. you can check on the vr tech boards for more info. if you want a 42dd plug, it costs quite a bit more and to be honest, doesn't make any visual difference unless you're running a SRI because you can't see it. Freeze plug is a coupe bucks and you can get them at your local parts store.

      that is a mk2 beam. i use a mount from APtuning which is basically what you've got posted there but made of solid aluminum. keeps the motor from rocking around the bay, but be prepared for some teeth chatter and a bit of rattle in the dash.

      lastly, a 3" exhuast is pretty much overkill. a lot of people will argue that unless you're running a forced induction setup, 3" is too large and hurts performance. you'd be better off with a 2.5". you can get a local muffler shop to hack one together, or you can buy one from a company. Autotech makes a nice one for fairly cheap, but the vr exhausts they make tend to have a bit of drone. techtonics makes a setup specific for vr swaps in mk2's. that's your best bet, but it really comes down to personal preference. Good luck man, hope this helps.
      Thanks a lot. Lots of help. I ended up ordering the BFI SAI Plug about 5 minutes before reading this. The APTuning mount looks solid. I wish BFI wasn't out of stock... I think their's is basically the same thing... only $80 less expensive. I just found the BBM Mount though... probably going to end up going with that. I just need to sell this VF Engineering mount soon to get some of my money back. And vibrations aren't that big of a deal. Especially in this car. I drove the Slobalt with full Poly mounts all around for 2 years or so.

      As far as the exhaust, I figured I'd keep it 3"... for if/when I add nitrous to it... and then further into the future... add a turbo. I had considered having something new made up for it though, because like I said... I think they used some cheap metal to make this one. Not too sure if it'll make it through an Ohio winter. Its still solid... but it is just covered in rust. I mean, I guess you can't blame the guy too much... he just raced the car. It wasn't a daily or anything. But I really like the sound of Borla mufflers. Sound excellent, imo. That's just something I'll have to put some thought into. I'll send TT a message and see if they'll do the VR6 Cat-back with a Borla. I know they offer the muffler on their site, but I didn't see a Cat-back for the VR6 with the Borla. There's a VW guy not too far from me that has done some fabrication work for the turbo set-up on my Cobalt. I might just shoot him a PM and see about having him make me a Stainless Cat-back.

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      07-27-2010 06:07 PM #25
      please, for the love of god, stop what youre doing/spending money on and get a full new harness

    25. Member USMCFieldMP's Avatar
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      07-27-2010 06:32 PM #26
      Quote Originally Posted by Crubb3d Rymz View Post
      please, for the love of god, stop what youre doing/spending money on and get a full new harness
      Meh, its not that bad. There are some extra ends here and there now. But the engine bay is free of A LOT of the loose ends that it once had... especially after I removed the Headlight Harness.

      The interior... yeah, that's a different story. One I make a proper switch panel though... I'll be able to eliminate the 3 random switches around the steering column... as well as the Key. One of these days here soon, I'll start fooling around with the interior wiring.

      BUT, I would still like to find a new complete harness. That way I could properly remove everything that isn't needed... and do a little bit of customizing... and beautifying.

    26. Member USMCFieldMP's Avatar
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      07-31-2010 02:50 PM #27
      So, when I changed my starter, I disconnected the battery... standard protocol, I thought. Well, now the car doesn't run right. Doesn't seem to wanna idle properly. It'll stumble around 500rpm for a bit... then shoot up to 2k or so. It does that a couple of times... then it settles around 700rpm, but sounds like it has a massive cam. No power when driving it, either. I checked all the fuses... they're all good. I tried unplugging the MAF, but that didn't seem to make a difference. Someone mentioned reseting the TPS... so I unplugged it and replugged it... both with the car off... and with it running.

      Ha, all I did was disconnect the battery and replace the starter. Any ideas?

    27. Member USMCFieldMP's Avatar
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      07-31-2010 05:35 PM #28
      I took the battery cables back off... sprayed them down with "Electrical Connection Cleaner"... sprayed down all the additional wires and stuff that were attached to the Positive connection, as well. Then took a wire brush and scrubbed them all real good. Put the cables and additional connections back onto the battery... started her up, and she runs fine.

      A decent bit of corrosion/crap came off the connections... so I'm guessing that was the problem. Feels good to drive it again, though. Especially with the solid mounts in.

    28. Member 16v2a2vr6's Avatar
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      07-31-2010 06:09 PM #29
      good start but that wiring is a mess. Are u keeping the kamei flares on it

    29. Member Ickey's Avatar
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      07-31-2010 06:55 PM #30
      wow dude alot goin on there ...i know ur in findlay i am i n tiffin ...u ever want a hand holler ...i am no wiring guru either lol ...my coupe went to a shop i got no garage and zero tools ..so not a bad ride ...not sure what the hehll happened with ur electrical problem with the starter and such. can't wait to get mine back from the shop next week. my wallet will be alot lighter.

    30. Member USMCFieldMP's Avatar
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      07-31-2010 07:49 PM #31
      That's a BBS kit. Fender Flares, Side Skirts, Rear Lip. Front Lip is missing.

      And Iono... I've thought about taking the BBS stuff of... putting on some simple black flares.

    31. Member USMCFieldMP's Avatar
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      08-01-2010 11:01 PM #32
      ...aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaand all my coolant dumped out the back onto my exhaust. Luckily, I was able to immediately pull over and park the car. Not sure what happened there. I searched for a hole or leak... but I could not find the source. I dunno. I'll have to post up some pics tomorrow.

    32. Member LPSimpsons87's Avatar
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      08-02-2010 01:56 AM #33
      Sounds like the coolant hose behind the head and above the manifold burst

    33. Member USMCFieldMP's Avatar
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      08-02-2010 04:19 AM #34
      The Heater hose has a pin hole in it. Went out and found it just a little bit ago.



      I guess now would be a good time to delete the lines going to the Throttle Body. Good news is that with the old "coolant" out of the system... and nothing but fresh water in... the temp seems to sit real nice right above 160*.

      But that old Coolant looked very much like Rusty Water. The wife and I could have sworn it was green when we peaked into the expansion tank a while back. Oh well... a good system flush, run some water in it for a while to hopefully clear some **** out... and then swap it to G12.

    34. Banned dubbinmk2's Avatar
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      08-02-2010 09:58 AM #35
      do your self a favor and get a passat corrado front cross member you can use mk3 style mounts!!!!!!!!!!


      that whole mk2 front mount is so 90's
      Last edited by dubbinmk2; 08-02-2010 at 10:01 AM.

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