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    Thread: 001109 - EVAP System: Large Leak Detected, running out of ideas why am I getting this code

    1. Member turboborra's Avatar
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      07-14-2010 05:27 PM #1
      So basically I killed my cam follower, and had no choice but to replace the cam, cam follower, and hpfp. While I had everything apart I'd also did my timing since I'm @ 80k. I assembled everything back together; car runs like a charm all with the exception of one annoying code. I keep getting a warning light that my fuel cap is open on the dash, followed by a cell. When I scan the car with my vag com I only have this in the memory:

      001109 - EVAP System: Large Leak Detected
      P0455 - 001 - Upper Limit Exceeded

      I never had this code in the past, so I'm puzzled why am I getting this code now after I did this extensive job and everything is put together back like it was. None of the hoses have any cracks visually.

      I changed out the simple things as a new fuel cap, and a new n80 valve. But the code keeps coming back, and I’m running out of ideas. Anyone one has any other ideas? Smoke machine, but I don’t have access to one

    2. Member turboborra's Avatar
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      07-14-2010 10:12 PM #2

    3. Member Krieger's Avatar
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      07-14-2010 10:49 PM #3
      im in the same boat man.

      i cleaned my valves and i keep getting a CEL even after resetting it.
      2006 Audi A3 | 2.0T | 6MT | APR Stage 2+ | Fully loaded ECU | FK grill | EJ CAI | BSH TBP |EJ DV Reloc. | Eurojet TBE | EuroJet Catch Tank | Cross drilled and Slotted Rotors | EBC "Redstuff" Kevlar | Raceland Coilovers | Forge Side to Side Short Shifter | Forge Front to Back Short Shifter | Devil's Own DVC-30 Methanol injection | BSH RSB | BSH Motor mount Kit | 42 DD Shifter Bushings | HPFP Stage 1 upgrade |

    4. Member turboborra's Avatar
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      07-15-2010 11:41 AM #4
      have you tried anything to find the leak?

    5. Member Krieger's Avatar
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      07-15-2010 03:54 PM #5
      yeah, we used a smoke machine a while back and found a line was leaking above the mani. replaced it, worked fine for like 6 months, then bam, it all went to hell again.
      2006 Audi A3 | 2.0T | 6MT | APR Stage 2+ | Fully loaded ECU | FK grill | EJ CAI | BSH TBP |EJ DV Reloc. | Eurojet TBE | EuroJet Catch Tank | Cross drilled and Slotted Rotors | EBC "Redstuff" Kevlar | Raceland Coilovers | Forge Side to Side Short Shifter | Forge Front to Back Short Shifter | Devil's Own DVC-30 Methanol injection | BSH RSB | BSH Motor mount Kit | 42 DD Shifter Bushings | HPFP Stage 1 upgrade |

    6. Member turboborra's Avatar
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      07-15-2010 05:01 PM #6
      Got a pic of the exact line you swapped out?

    7. 07-15-2010 08:34 PM #7
      Can you run a test of the EVAP system? Its basic settings group 71. It should say system okay or system not okay or something to that effect. If it fails try pinching the hose from the evap purge valve to the intake manifold and re run the test. If you pass your purge valve is most likely leaking or not sealing 100%. If it still says system not okay try other evap hoses in your engine bay.

      You may need to have it tested by someone that can use nitrogen to check for leaks and smoke the entire system if its not easily found.

    8. 07-16-2010 07:11 AM #8
      I just re-read what you posted and noticed you already replaced the N80 purge valve. When reconnecting the hoses for the EVAP system are you sure you didn't cross the lines? Its happened before as I dont think they are color coded. Try swapping the two lines where they connect near the fuel line in the top right hand corner of the engine bay. Retest using basic settings/MVB 71 and see if the system is okay. Hope this helps.

    9. 07-16-2010 09:29 AM #9
      Quote Originally Posted by VDubGTi08 View Post
      I just re-read what you posted and noticed you already replaced the N80 purge valve. When reconnecting the hoses for the EVAP system are you sure you didn't cross the lines? Its happened before as I dont think they are color coded. Try swapping the two lines where they connect near the fuel line in the top right hand corner of the engine bay. Retest using basic settings/MVB 71 and see if the system is okay. Hope this helps.
      Could you please post a pic of the hoses you are referring to ?

      Just wanna check something....

    10. Member turboborra's Avatar
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      07-16-2010 01:06 PM #10
      .
      Last edited by turboborra; 08-26-2010 at 09:28 PM.

    11. 07-16-2010 02:12 PM #11
      Quote Originally Posted by GolfRS View Post
      Could you please post a pic of the hoses you are referring to ?

      Just wanna check something....




      Those were the two hoses I was refering to.

    12. Banner Advertiser chris@revotechnik's Avatar
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      07-16-2010 02:22 PM #12
      So this code has only started since you did the work on the car?

      If that is the case then it probably is a loose or damaged connection. Check everything you pulled off to do the work and work from there.

    13. Member turboborra's Avatar
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      08-26-2010 09:41 PM #13
      Bringing this back from the dead as I am still having the same problem.

      I dropped my car of at a local tuning shop and had the whole system smoked tested. Everything after the fuel tank was smoke tested and passes (all the lines, purge valve, charcoal canister, etc.).
      So the shop tells me that when they connect all the lines back to the fuel tank and check group 71 the system fails. So now they are thinking since all else passes it’s something to do with the fuel tank and I need a new one. I have a very hard time believing them that I have a leak somewhere within my tank as ass this problem occurred right after I changed my cam follower. I got mad and picked up the car back from them as I got charged for labor and problem still exists.
      Does anyone have any ideas on what else I can try?

    14. Member IMAN973's Avatar
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      08-27-2010 12:59 AM #14
      Evap delete
      Thats what i did

    15. Member turboborra's Avatar
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      08-27-2010 09:43 AM #15
      That is exactly what is on my mind now. How did you disable the leak detection pump?

    16. Banner Advertiser chris@revotechnik's Avatar
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      08-27-2010 10:05 AM #16
      Quote Originally Posted by turboborra View Post
      That is exactly what is on my mind now. How did you disable the leak detection pump?

      There are no gains to be had by removing the evap system. Most states are switching to a new emissions system that not only checked readiness but also then clears codes and verifies that readiness tests reset. There is no way to pass emissions with your evap system removed, I know it sucks but fix it and fix it right, ripping it out will just result in much bigger headaches down the road.

    17. Member turboborra's Avatar
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      08-27-2010 12:06 PM #17
      Quote Originally Posted by chris@revotechnik View Post
      There are no gains to be had by removing the evap system. Most states are switching to a new emissions system that not only checked readiness but also then clears codes and verifies that readiness tests reset. There is no way to pass emissions with your evap system removed, I know it sucks but fix it and fix it right, ripping it out will just result in much bigger headaches down the road.
      No argument with you Chris and I know I would get any gains. I'm not an expert with the evap stuff, but all I want to do is get rid of the warning light on the dash. I don't even feel like removing any of the components. Disabling the pump might get rid of the light, I think .

    18. Banner Advertiser chris@revotechnik's Avatar
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      08-27-2010 12:08 PM #18
      removing and disabling anythign will result in the same or even more codes thrown and not fix your problem unless you had code specific to writing those codes out for those items. which then leads to you never passing readiness so it is really still in your best interest to fix it. I knw its not easy and even harder for us to figure out on the internet with this sort of thing so we'll all just be guessing. With evap issues especially one could could mean any number of things so what "worked" for one person doesn't mean it works for the next 9 people.

      Without going back through the thread have you replaced the gas cap? checked the seal to the fuel pump under the back seat? Tried another N80 valve?

    19. Member turboborra's Avatar
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      08-27-2010 12:58 PM #19
      Quote Originally Posted by chris@revotechnik View Post
      removing and disabling anythign will result in the same or even more codes thrown and not fix your problem unless you had code specific to writing those codes out for those items. which then leads to you never passing readiness so it is really still in your best interest to fix it. I knw its not easy and even harder for us to figure out on the internet with this sort of thing so we'll all just be guessing. With evap issues especially one could could mean any number of things so what "worked" for one person doesn't mean it works for the next 9 people.

      Without going back through the thread have you replaced the gas cap? checked the seal to the fuel pump under the back seat? Tried another N80 valve?
      Yes I have purchased a new gas cap, and a new n80 valve already. The shop has inspected the seal around the fuel pump and claimed they saw nothing when they smoked tested the lines. no smoke was seen around the seal.

    20. Banner Advertiser chris@revotechnik's Avatar
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      08-27-2010 01:00 PM #20
      Quote Originally Posted by turboborra View Post
      Yes I have purchased a new gas cap, and a new n80 valve already. The shop has inspected the seal around the fuel pump and claimed they saw nothing when they smoked tested the lines. no smoke was seen around the seal.

      Seal is only like 6 bucks.. personaly worth just replacing to be safe.

    21. Member turboborra's Avatar
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      08-27-2010 03:07 PM #21
      Quote Originally Posted by chris@revotechnik View Post
      Seal is only like 6 bucks.. personaly worth just replacing to be safe.
      You know what I will purchase one since its that cheap. Is it a pain to replace?

    22. Banner Advertiser chris@revotechnik's Avatar
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      08-27-2010 03:38 PM #22
      Quote Originally Posted by turboborra View Post
      You know what I will purchase one since its that cheap. Is it a pain to replace?
      pull seat out remove plastic cover and unplug pump. Techinally you need a special tool to get the ring off but a large flat head and a hammer works just hte same. pump pops up, remove seal reinstall seal push in place and the hardest part is getting the plastic retaining right in place and starting to thread down.

      I suggest doing it with less then a 1/4 tank of gas, not that it over flows in these cars like the A4s do but easier to deal with the less fuel there is. Some even jack up the passenger side so the bulk of the fuel is on the other side.

    23. Member turboborra's Avatar
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      08-27-2010 05:05 PM #23
      Quote Originally Posted by chris@revotechnik View Post
      pull seat out remove plastic cover and unplug pump. Techinally you need a special tool to get the ring off but a large flat head and a hammer works just hte same. pump pops up, remove seal reinstall seal push in place and the hardest part is getting the plastic retaining right in place and starting to thread down.

      I suggest doing it with less then a 1/4 tank of gas, not that it over flows in these cars like the A4s do but easier to deal with the less fuel there is. Some even jack up the passenger side so the bulk of the fuel is on the other side.
      Snap, I just tanked up yesterday. Thanks for the suggestion about the fuel capacity being at ¼ tank of gas. I will swap the seal out next week and post back my results.

    24. Member turboborra's Avatar
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      08-31-2010 09:31 PM #24
      Quote Originally Posted by turboborra View Post
      Snap, I just tanked up yesterday. Thanks for the suggestion about the fuel capacity being at ¼ tank of gas. I will swap the seal out next week and post back my results.
      So I waited until I practically had no gas left in the tank, changed the seal. Tested group 71, SYSTEM FAILED. SOB

      So having no gas in the car I went to fill to her up; and figured ehh what the heck let me test it again for the million time, SYSTEM OK.
      I still refuse to believe it is something with my fuel tank, especially when this started immediatly after I changed my cam, cam follower, hpfp. I have already swapped the following items because of this dam code:
      Photobucket

      I dont know what to do with this any more
      Last edited by turboborra; 08-31-2010 at 09:35 PM.

    25. Member turboborra's Avatar
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      09-01-2010 01:42 PM #25
      Fuel cap warning light has turned on this morning on a full tank of gas . So I dont think its something related with my fuel tank.

    26. Member turboborra's Avatar
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      09-02-2010 04:10 PM #26
      anyone got any ideas

    27. 09-07-2010 10:46 PM #27
      I have the exact symptoms on my 06 GLI as you do but the car starts hard when I fill up and there's also a strange clunking sound when the car is warming up in the morning. My wife complained of it for a while so I thought it was something rolling around in the trunk. Nope. i drove it one morning alone and pulled up to a light and heard it start clunking away - like something tapping on the fuel tank randomly every few seconds.

      Have you had the leak pump tested? I found this article http://repairpal.com/OBD-II-Code-P0455 that may help find the problem.

    28. Member Krieger's Avatar
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      09-08-2010 09:26 AM #28
      Todd, that is my exact set of summons. I've been dealing with thee hard starts tho by letting the pump prime for a minute.
      2006 Audi A3 | 2.0T | 6MT | APR Stage 2+ | Fully loaded ECU | FK grill | EJ CAI | BSH TBP |EJ DV Reloc. | Eurojet TBE | EuroJet Catch Tank | Cross drilled and Slotted Rotors | EBC "Redstuff" Kevlar | Raceland Coilovers | Forge Side to Side Short Shifter | Forge Front to Back Short Shifter | Devil's Own DVC-30 Methanol injection | BSH RSB | BSH Motor mount Kit | 42 DD Shifter Bushings | HPFP Stage 1 upgrade |

    29. Member turboborra's Avatar
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      09-21-2010 08:25 PM #29
      Quote Originally Posted by ChuckieTodd View Post
      I have the exact symptoms on my 06 GLI as you do but the car starts hard when I fill up and there's also a strange clunking sound when the car is warming up in the morning. My wife complained of it for a while so I thought it was something rolling around in the trunk. Nope. i drove it one morning alone and pulled up to a light and heard it start clunking away - like something tapping on the fuel tank randomly every few seconds.

      Have you had the leak pump tested? I found this article http://repairpal.com/OBD-II-Code-P0455 that may help find the problem.
      How can you test the leak detection pump if its faulty? Everytime I check group 071, I hear the pump.

    30. Member turboborra's Avatar
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      10-01-2010 02:29 PM #30
      Does anyone know if there is any way to fool the leak detection pump, so that the check fuel cap and cell wont be triggered? I hate having the dame check engine light on.

    31. 10-06-2010 11:22 PM #31
      I removed the N80 valve and tested vacuum against it. It passed air straight through. I sprayed it full of cleaner and shook it around several times. Finally I got it to hold almost all the vacuum my pump would muster. Back on the car, no check engine light and no hard-starts at the pump after fill. If the symptoms return, a new N80 will be first on the list.

      I also asked my wife to NEVER again top-off the tank.

    32. Member Krieger's Avatar
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      10-07-2010 01:10 AM #32
      is the n80 valve just under our mani, on the driver side?

      im going to pull that sucker and clean it out. hopefully i can go more than 2 months with this car without a CEL popping up for one reason or another.
      2006 Audi A3 | 2.0T | 6MT | APR Stage 2+ | Fully loaded ECU | FK grill | EJ CAI | BSH TBP |EJ DV Reloc. | Eurojet TBE | EuroJet Catch Tank | Cross drilled and Slotted Rotors | EBC "Redstuff" Kevlar | Raceland Coilovers | Forge Side to Side Short Shifter | Forge Front to Back Short Shifter | Devil's Own DVC-30 Methanol injection | BSH RSB | BSH Motor mount Kit | 42 DD Shifter Bushings | HPFP Stage 1 upgrade |

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      10-14-2010 04:25 PM #33
      same exact issues on my '06 GTI. Looks like I'll start with the N80....anyone know where I can find it in the engine bay? (GTI newb) and should I just go to the stealership to purchase it?
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      09-22-2011 03:35 PM #34
      Zombie post is zombie.

      Seriously though, I have the same symptoms as listed above. In fact ChuckieTodd's reply would be the same exact post that I would make.

      Quote Originally Posted by ChuckieTodd
      I have the exact symptoms on my 06 GLI as you do but the car starts hard when I fill up and there's also a strange clunking sound when the car is warming up in the morning.
      My wife described that she heard a clunking noise right before the gas cap error and following CEL. Each went away: CEL came on, pulled the code (001109), cleared. A few days passed, light came back, light went away, light has come back now.

      From reading the posts above, I will start with the N80 valve.

      Anyone else who posted resolve their issue? If so, what steps did you take?

      Thanks.

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      10-12-2011 01:43 PM #35
      I'm bringing this back to life as I have thrown this same CEL. I swapped the N80/Purge Valve and replaced the Gas Cap w/ a brand new one... Cleared the codes and a few days later... Gas Cap Warning light followed by a CEL.

      Any other suggestions gentlemen?
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