Got back to work on this today. I needed to figure out why there's no power at the fuel pump. I followed the wires back up through the floor under the back seat and across the car to the main wiring harness on the drivers side. Those wires are all in good condition. The grounding point under the back seat is clean and tight as well.
So, I started checking for power at the fuel pump relay. The relay on my car is in one of the added on pieces that clips to the top of the fuse box, with a plug from the back of that going to the front side of the fuse box, where the Bentley shows the fuel pump relay going (3rd relay spot from the left).
I have 12v at both terminals 15 (switched 12v) and 30 (constant 12v), as well as at both ends of the fuse that's mounted on the relay.
But with the ignition switched on (12v being applied to terminal 15), there is no power at all at terminal 87 on the relay, which goes to the pump. I switched the relay to a brand new one (OEM replacement, same manufacturer as the original), same thing.
So, any ideas on what I'm missing here?
3. Big goofy smile
Seriously, I got my fuel pump running reliably for the first time on Megasquirt, before I had anything else on MS. I got sick of the fuse panel bypass flakiness, and had the MS stuff sitting in the car not doing anything, so one yellow wire later, no more erratic fuel pump. The ignition wasn't far behind, and it was a long time after that before the injectors were actually controlled by MS.
Nice find you got there.
Today I worked on the front brakes, upgrading to vented 9.4" rotors with new pads, rotors, calipers and hoses. I didn't mess with any of the electrical stuff, since I thought the voltmeter was up here at my dad's house. When I was cleaning up I saw it laying on the front seat of the 80, so I could have been dealing with that. Oh well, another day.
OK, so quick question for the gurus...
The fuel pump relay is supposed to get a signal from the coil, is it not? And it's supposed to go to terminal 31b on the relay if I'm not mistaken. I have 1.8v at terminal 31b, is that correct or is it supposed to be 12v?
I do have 12v at terminals 30 (constant +) and 15 (switched +).
So today, after testing for signal from the coil to the fuel pump relay (as mentioned above) I assembled my new hydraulic press () and pressed in my rear wheel bearing races. I also removed the old master cylinder.
One small problem though....
One of the nipples snapped off of the reservoir when I removed it from the old cylinder. (Don't you just hate it when one of your nipples breaks off? ) So now I need a new reservoir.
Reservoir has been ordered, so that's something.
On the electrical front, I think I've found the problem. I was looking at the back side of the fuse box to trace the wire for the coil signal. I saw a black/green wire that was cut off right at the back of the fuse box. According to the Bentley, that wire supplies power to the fuel pump, warm air regulator and auxiliary air regulator. So the next step would be to find that wire and reconnect it.
I just love wiring.
Today I installed the new master cylinder and new-to-me reservoir. I also finished off the install of new rear drums, shoes, cylinders, hardware, bearings, and seals.
However, the brakes aren't bleeding properly. Not much is coming out of any of the cylinders. Hopefully this new master cylinder isn't bad, because I'm sick of dealing with master cylinders (I changed one on my dad's 4Runner today as well).
Indiana Red!! Love it!
Ya know - that automatic transmission can be removed - if you look I believe you can put a clutch pedal in there..
That's what I would do..
Your paint looks awesome for that old - this is 1 month old and yours is lookin good!!
You don't see many with automatics anymore, so it'll stay until it blows up. Then a 5-speed will go in, along with a bigger/better engine.
The paint is as nice as it is because it has been stored indoors for half of it's life. That goes a long way in preserving it.
My first Mk1 (well...technically my wife's) was an 1980 Platinum Gray automatic. The car rotted before that darn 3 speed gave up. It had a bad rod bearing and clapped like a diesel from day one of ownership. It was the Scirocco that really got me hooked - loved it more than the nice 84 that I also owned at the time.
UPDATE!!! (Since it's only been 10 months......)
The other day I drained the gas tank on this thing, and was pleased to see that the "fuel" (more like varnish at this point) was free of rust or crud, meaning that (hopefully) the tank isn't full of corrosion.
The next issue to tackle was the fuel pump issue. I decided to remove one of the wire terminals from a fusebox connector I saved out of the black car. I couldn't get it to come out of the plug without destroying the plug completely, making it a non-option for the plug in the 80. So, I bought this kit to remove wiring terminals, so I could remove the little piece of wire that was cut super short and replace it without damaging anything.
I popped the old wire out, and here it is. As you can see, not much left to work with there.
Upon comparing the replacement end to the short one pictured, I noticed that the replacement wire was a bit smaller, so I tried to find a terminal in the donor plug of the correct size and a slightly larger wire. As I was trying to remove one, the new tool (which cost $80, I might add) snapped off and stabbed me in the thumb.
Then a gust of wind blew my sandwich off the car and into a puddle of water on the ground.
Then after tracing the wires some more (having not done so since last September), I discovered that the wiring diagram in my 1980-81 Bentley is incorrect. The power wire to the pump is red/yellow, but according to the Bentley is supposed to merge with blue/white and red/white wires on one side of a connector, and attach to a black/green wire (such as the wire that had been cut too short). I found another black/green wire in another connector on the fuse panel as well. No idea what that one is for.
On my car, however, there is another red/yellow wire on the other side of the aforementioned connector, which goes to the added on relay block that mounts to the top of the fuse panel. It doesn't change to a black/green wire like the Bentley's wiring diagram says it does, so the $80 tool kit and the wounded thumb and all the contemplation of how to approach this repair meant ****-all.
So, I put a good battery in the car, and busted out the ole multimeter. The relay has 5 terminals, numbered 15, 30, 30b, 31, and 87. 15 is switched power, 30 is constant power, 30b is a signal from the coil, 31 is ground, and 87 is the power output to the pump. I have power at 15 and 30, but nothing from 30b. So I checked for power at the coil, and I do have voltage there where the red/black wire connects. I checked the resistance of that wire between the coil and the relay, and it's open. So I'll have to repair that wire. In the meantime, I jumpered the 15 to the 30b, so I would have power at the 3 terminals that are supposed to have power, and tried again. I have 12v at terminals 15, 30, and 30b, 12v at both sides of the fuse that is on top of the relay, but nothing at all at terminal 87. I tried a brand new relay that I'd bought last year, same thing. I pulled the relay out of the 78, same thing. I found another relay on the floor of the 78, same thing again.
So, apparently, I have 4 bad fuel pump relays, yes?
Fuel pump and accumulator have been replaced (with the units from my old black 16v), wiring has been repaired.
The water pump was seized up, so today (after getting a late start) I set out to change that. All I have to say is, holy **** the York a/c compressor makes everything a total pain in the ass. I finally got it out of the way, along with the massive bracketry.
As it turns out, the old water pump was one with the larger hub diameter, so I had to go to the store to exchange it. A couple of bolts were broken off in the housing, so I packed it up for the day. Maybe after work tomorrow I'll reassemble with my spare housing.
OK, update time!!
I got the new water pump on. only to find out that, just like the old one, the pulley wouldn't line up. So, some spacers and longer bolts brought that into line.
Since I had already discarded the old York a/c compressor (it was seized up and had a hole punched in the housing), the upper bracket that the alternator adjustment bolt bolts through was able to move around. So we used an L-shaped bracket out of the spare hardware bucket and a piece of conduit as a spacer, to brace it from up/down movement. The rubber bushing the adjustment bolt goes through is no good, however, so the alternator still moves up and down. I've got some pieces to potentially fix that, but haven't installed them yet.
I replaced all of the vacuum hoses, and assembled the intake hose.
It cranks, but won't start. We checked for spark, and we have nothing. Now I have no clue what the problem is. We've replaced the plugs, wires, cap, rotor, points, condenser, and coil. We checked for voltage at the coil, and we're getting 10.58v. I suspect this isn't sufficient, but I don't know where to start. I'm getting pretty frustrated.